The Curated Closet

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by Anuschka Rees


  How to develop great personal style

  Developing a personal style is like creating a sculpture.

  Your favourite colours, materials, silhouettes and other aesthetic preferences are the clay. Before you can do anything else, you first have to gather your clay: dig deep, immerse yourself in inspiration, and experiment with different colours, materials, and silhouettes to find out what you are drawn to. Then start sculpting: figure out how all your different preferences could fit together to create a single visual narrative.

  Both of these steps take effort. Artists spend years defining their signature aesthetic. And the same goes for regular people who dress well. They didn’t just wake up one morning with a great sense of style; no, they spent years experimenting with different looks, sampled their fair share of now-cringe-worthy outfits, practised, and fine-tuned.

  Consider these next few chapters your shortcut to great personal style.

  If you already have a pretty good idea about how you like to dress, by the end of this section, you’ll have a superclear road map of your unique sense of style that you can then use to upgrade your wardrobe.

  If you are a complete fashion newbie, get ready to gather your clay and discover what type of clothes make you feel your best.

  Start honing in on your unique personal style by collecting buckets full of inspiration to discover the aesthetics, colours and silhouettes that naturally appeal to you.

  Collecting inspiration is step 1 of any creative process. The first thing a graphic designer does when creating a logo is to put together an inspiration board that captures the overall vibe of the design she has in mind. Costume designers who are in charge of creating entire wardrobes for characters in movies will spend weeks gathering inspiration from other movies, TV shows and fashion editorials before they even touch their sewing machine. And the very first step to developing great style is collecting inspiration. You need to see what’s out there and expose yourself to as many different styles and aesthetics to see what resonates with you. This chapter will help you do just that.

  Reserve an afternoon or evening to go through blogs, magazines and other sources and cut out, pin or save every image that speaks to you in some way in regard to your style. Take notes in your style file along the way.

  How to make the most of your inspiration search

  SAVE EVERYTHING IN ONE PLACE

  Your goal is to end up with a big set of images that you can play around with and organise to spot patterns. The easiest way to store all these images is in a simple folder on your computer. Pinterest boards are great for finding and saving photos, but since you can’t easily move them around on a board, I recommend you move them offline into a folder after your initial inspiration search.

  Make sure you include in that folder a visual representation of every single thing that inspires you from images you find online to interesting outfit ideas you see on the street. If you don’t have a digital image, find one by searching for that item, combination or outfit directly on Google or Pinterest. Scan pages of magazines and books or just snap a quick picture on your phone.

  LOOK FOR THINGS YOU WOULD WEAR IN REAL LIFE

  Instead of pinning lots of pretty high-fashion pics, keep your focus on things that will help you build a wardrobe that is right for your current lifestyle. Before you add something to your inspiration folder, ask yourself, would I actually wear this in real life or do I just like this on an abstract level? That’s not to say there’s no point in looking through fashion editorials at all, because they may still help point you toward certain elements, like specific colours, that you could incorporate into your wardrobe. The trick is to just be aware of this. Feel free to include a gorgeous Vogue editorial of models in a dreamy forest scene in your folder if you know that it’s the earthy colours of the clothes that inspire you.

  DEEPEN YOUR SEARCH

  The best inspiration search is both broad and deep: Your goal is to expose yourself to as many different aesthetics as possible, to get a feeling for what you are drawn to. But as soon as you have found something you love – for example, a specific piece or a colour combination – make sure you go deeper. Search for different ways to wear it, what other people pair with it, and how they style it. If you love an outfit that a blogger is wearing, go through the archives of her blog to see her other looks. In short: Allow yourself to go down rabbit holes.

  DELETE IMAGES

  Throughout your inspiration search, you’ll notice that your likes will become more and more specific. Some images that you liked in the beginning of your search may start to look less appealing to you as you go along. That is a good thing because it means you’re starting to develop your own aesthetic. The act of deleting those images is just as important to the style-finding process as finding new images because it helps you set the boundaries for your personal style and define it. So, as soon as you see an image that doesn’t look all that great to you anymore, just delete it. Pictures you feel only ‘meh’ about not only distract from others that you love but also skew the overall feel of your collection.

  Where to find inspiration

  BLOGS AND ONLINE MAGAZINES

  Personal style blogs, street style blogs and online fashion magazines are all great sources for style inspiration. Online fashion magazines and well-known street-style blogs tend to have a strong focus on current fashion trends, so concentrate on personal style blogs if your own preferences don’t align well with today’s trends. Once you’ve gone through your go-to sites, Google is your best friend.

  PRINT MAGAZINES AND FASHION BOOKS

  While blogs are a great source for wearable looks, print magazines often offer a different, more refined perspective of fashion with gorgeous editorials and well-thought-out shopping features. Start with your favourite fashion magazines, but make sure you also branch out! And, if you really want to delve deep, check out some books on fashion design, fashion history, or fashion photography.

  MOVIES AND TV SHOWS

  TV shows and movies, especially those set in current times, are one of my favourite sources for real-life style inspiration because you actually get to see complete wardrobes. Unlike magazines or brand lookbooks, characters in TV shows and movies dress for all sorts of occasions (not just swanky parties) like around the house, at work and lazy Sundays.

  PINTEREST

  Pinterest is not only a honeypot for new ideas, but also can be a hugely helpful tool for deepening your search. And that is because Pinterest is basically one huge collection of interconnected inspiration boards of other people. If you find a look that you love, chances are you’ll find lots more like it on the board to which it belongs. Another thing about Pinterest that is super convenient is the ‘Related Pins’ feature: if you scroll to the bottom of a pin’s page, you’ll find lots more similar images.

  ONLINE SHOPS, LOOKBOOKS, AND CATALOGUES

  Online shops, lookbooks and other image material from individual brands can be a good source of inspiration, if you love the style of a particular brand. Usually the images from lookbooks and online shops are more stripped down and wearable to showcase the pieces, so if you prefer a simpler look, that’s great. Keep in mind that designers will usually style their items in a way that’s in line with the overall look of their brand, but that doesn’t mean it’s the only way to wear them. Do a direct search for specific items to find alternative styling ideas.

  PEOPLE WATCHING

  Blogs, magazines and Pinterest aren’t the only places to find examples of good personal style. Great style is all around you, so start paying attention and train yourself to become an expert observer! For example, what are people wearing, what colours do they mix, and how do they accessorise their outfits? Take notes about everything that catches your eye and make sure you find representations of it, once you are back home, to add to your set of images.

  Where to pay close attention

  THE OVERALL VIBE OF THE OUTFIT

  Sometimes it’s not the individual pieces that draw us
to an outfit, but its overall feeling. You may fall in love with an image because of its all-around seventies vibe, edgy punk rock look, or ethereal romantic feeling. Recognising which overall themes resonate with you may not directly point you toward specific items to include in your wardrobe, but it will definitely help you find your unique aesthetic.

  INDIVIDUAL ITEMS

  Suede desert boots, a structured panel top, a chic leather jacket paired with a striped, fitted dress: Take note of any individual items or combinations of items in which you could see yourself.

  COLOURS

  Your individual colour preferences are a key component of your personal style. As you browse through your inspiration material, pay attention to what kinds of colours you are drawn to and, just as important, which put you off an outfit that you might have otherwise liked.

  SILHOUETTES

  Keep an eye on what kinds of silhouettes resonate with you, as well as the cut and fit of individual pieces. Do you love high-waisted skirts that are fitted up top but flare out? Are you a fan of skinny jeans with loose-fitting tops? Where do you like skirts and dresses to hit the leg? What type of necklines do you prefer? When it comes to the silhouette of an outfit, an extra inch of length or circumference can make all the difference, so try to be as precise as possible here.

  MATERIALS

  Look for materials, fabrics, and textures: anything from soft cotton to leather, chunky knitting, or a lightweight chiffon fabric. The material of an item may not always be easy to spot from an image, but if it is clearly visible and essential to the overall look of the piece, make sure you take note.

  STYLING

  Building a chic outfit is not just about what you wear, but also how you wear it. A couple of clever styling techniques can transform even the plainest old-T-shirt-and-jeans combo into a great look. So as you look for inspiration, make sure you also pay attention to all those little details, like how that blogger tucks in her shirt, how she accessorises her maxi dress, or what make-up she wears with an all-black outfit.

  ‘Help! I like styles that don’t work for my body shape.’

  A common question I get from my readers is this: ‘What if I am collecting inspiration and repeatedly find myself drawn to things that aren’t recommended for my body shape or colouring? Should I just ignore these altogether?’

  In short, no!

  Here’s the thing: In recent years we have all been so inundated with typology-based advice, from various body-shape theories to super in-depth colour analysis quizzes, that the idea that only a small set of clothes and colours works for each person has become widely accepted. And that’s pretty sad. Sure, there may be a handful of colours in which each one of us looks a little more tired and a few in which we look a little better, but the vast majority of shades will look just fine. The same goes for shapes and silhouettes: yes, a few extreme cuts may make you look a little more bottom-heavy or perhaps a few pounds lighter, but your body is what it is and clothes won’t magically change that.

  If something is your style and you love it, I believe you should wear it, regardless of whether it supposedly ‘flatters’ your body or doesn’t. Plus, if we are being honest, to flatter almost always means ‘makes you look thinner’, and that definitely shouldn’t be your prime objective when it comes to getting dressed.

  If you must, you can always go for a compromise. For example, if you think very loose-fitting boyfriend jeans make you look big, choose a slightly more fitted version. Instead of a bright orange, pick a softer peach, and so on. If it really is something you love, there’ll be a way to make it work for your body. And you’ll figure out how in the next chapter.

  But for now, just save every single image that inspires you, even if you’re not sure how that particular piece, cut or colour will look on you.

  What to do with your inspiration material

  Okay, so you’ve spent at least a full afternoon or evening immersing yourself in inspiration and are now left with a hefty stack of images, online or offline. What now? There are two things: cull and identify patterns.

  CULL

  Do a quick edit of your entire set of images and weed out anything that doesn’t look as appealing anymore or seems redundant. You should also be able to remember exactly what about an image you love and that inspires you in regard to your style. If you can’t pinpoint what inspires you in a particular image, toss it.

  IDENTIFY PATTERNS

  This last step is where the real magic happens. Look at your entire selection of images from a bird’s-eye perspective and break it down into concrete themes and elements.

  To get started, choose one of the categories from here, such as colours and then write down any individual shades or colour combinations that stand out from your set of images. Next, look for individual pieces, silhouettes, styling techniques, and so on. Don’t worry about analysing every tiny aspect of an image; just focus on the dominant patterns and qualities that you found yourself drawn to over and over again, because these are what will likely represent the essence of your style.

  In the end, you should be left with a tidy list of elements that you love and might want to include in your wardrobe. Think of that list as a preliminary recipe for your ideal style, a first draft. In the next step, you’ll get a chance to test-drive and fine-tune it. Here’s an example of what your list may look like:

  Things I like

  OVERALL VIBE

  Vintage

  Seventies rock scene

  Grown-up grunge

  Maximalist

  Folk style

  INDIVIDUAL ITEMS

  Leather jackets in all shapes and colours

  Lace-up boots

  Long knit cardigans over everything

  Oversize seventies faux fur coat

  Denim shirts

  Colourful tunics with embroidery

  COLOURS

  Black, black and more black

  Emerald green

  All shades of purple

  Gold (for jewellery and sequins)

  Warm, rusty colours: bronze, auburn, amber, brick red

  SILHOUETTES

  High-rise skirts and pants

  Palazzo pants

  Jeans with ripped knees

  Bodycon maxi dresses

  Flowy caftans and tunics

  Flared jeans

  Crop tops with high-waisted skirts or pants

  Long-line cardigans over minidresses, worn with knee-high boots

  MATERIALS

  Lace detailing

  Eyelet pattern

  Broken-in denim

  Embroidery

  All-over sequins

  Corduroy

  Velvet

  Chunky knit sweaters, dresses, and cardigans

  STYLING

  Stacked bracelets

  Long, layered necklaces

  Thick belts

  Lots and lots of layers

  Cross-body bags

  Cat-eye make-up

  Long, flowy hair

  Wide-brim hats

  Double denim

  Fringed bags

  Plaid shirt tied around hips

  After all that research, it’s time to get out into the field! Hit the stores, try stuff on, and experiment, experiment, experiment.

  If you have just completed the inspiration phase and spent an afternoon sifting through magazines, blogs and Pinterest, your head is now probably bursting with outfit ideas, colours, combinations and fabrics to try. And hopefully you now also have at least a rough mental image of what your own personal style could look like. And that is great, but don’t go rushing out to the shops just yet! That mental image is still just a preliminary draft because so far it’s based purely on what kind of clothes you love and don’t love – on other people.

  But there is a big difference between appreciating a certain aesthetic on other people and loving that aesthetic on yourself.

  Personally, I love the idea of empire-waist dresses with lace detailing, but I’ve never really liked how they
look on me, so I just admire them from afar and stick to my go-to high-waisted skirts and camisoles in the summer.

  There is a good chance that among all of the things you were drawn to as you collected inspiration, there are a few items on your list that belong in the ‘appreciate’ category rather than the ‘wear’ category. But unless you try it, you’ll never know.

  And that’s why you need to experiment: to figure out not only exactly what type of aesthetic and specific pieces you like to wear, but also how you like to wear them. What type of top goes best with that type of skirt, how can you make that silhouette work on your body, what neckline do you prefer for jumpers, what styling tricks make you feel the most confident, and so on?

  So take that list of pieces, colours and outfit ideas that you wrote at the end of your inspiration search, and put it to the test. Make it your mission to try on every single thing on that list. For example, if you found yourself really drawn to A-line midi skirts, find a store that carries them (ideally in different versions) and just try them on, no strings attached. If one of the items on your list is ‘berry shades’, try on every plum and raspberry piece you can find. Or, if you fell in love with an overall aesthetic, like a mod sixties look, challenge yourself to re-create that aesthetic using actual pieces you can find in a store.

 

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