by Selin Kiazim
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, yeast, salt and sugar. Add the water and olive oil to form a thick batter. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Oil a roasting tin measuring about 36 x 26 x 5cm (14 x 10 x 2in) or a round baking tin about 30cm (12in) in diameter. Place the batter into the tin and even out. Leave to prove until doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 210°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6. Bake for 45–60 minutes or until golden brown. Insert a skewer to check; if it comes out clean, the loaf is ready. Leave to cool.
CHEESE, SPRING ONION, BAHARAT & GARLIC BÖREKS
These are perfect for an afternoon snack or even for breakfast, and the baharat gives a lovely background perfume. Feel free to use whatever kind of cheese you prefer, or even just one type. I like to use a mix of aged kaşar cheese, feta and hellim, but mature Cheddar, Parmesan and soft goats’ cheese work well too.
MAKES 18 – 20
500g (1lb 2oz) mixed cheese, grated
1 bunch of spring onions, thinly sliced
large bunch of flat leaf parsley, finely shredded
2 tablespoons baharat (available in Turkish supermarkets)
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 quantity Pide dough
plain flour, for dusting
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Combine the cheeses, spring onions, parsley, baharat and garlic. Divide into 2 equal portions and set aside.
Once the pide dough has risen, punch it down and divide into 2 equal balls. Keep one covered and, on a lightly floured work surface, roll the other into a rough circle about 2mm (1/16in) thick. Place tablespoons of the cheese mixture on one half of the dough, ensuring each spoonful is at least 3cm (1¼in) from the next. Fold the other half of the dough over them and press it down quite firmly around the piles of filling.
Using either a pizza cutter or a small sharp knife, cut around the piles of filling to make random shapes. If the edges of each börek have not stuck together securely, use a little water to seal them. Place the böreks on a lightly floured surface. Repeat the process with the remaining dough and filling.
Heat a large, heavy-based frying pan on a medium-high heat. Place 4 or 5 böreks in the dry pan and cook for 2–3 minutes, turning regularly, or until dark brown spots appear. Repeat until all the böreks are cooked. Drizzle with olive oil to serve.
SPICED BEEF & CHEESE SAUCE POĞAÇAS
When in need of a top-up of Turkish ingredients, I often pop into my local TFC (Turkish Food Centre). These shops are scattered all around London and have their own in-house bakeries, which make the most incredible baked goods. I find it pretty hard to resist their poğaças, which are small, brioche-like buns that are often stuffed with feta and parsley. You can experiment with different types of filling, but don’t put anything too wet inside or they might pop open.
MAKES 12
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
500g (1lb 2oz) minced beef
2 onions, finely chopped
large bunch of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 tablespoons Turkish hot pepper paste (açi biber salçasi)
1 heaped tablespoon tomato purée
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground fennel
1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
1 teaspoon ground coriander
50g (1¾oz) mixed white and black sesame seeds
flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE DOUGH
700g (1lb 9oz) plain flour
10g (¼oz) fast-action dried yeast
40g (1½oz) caster sugar
¾ teaspoon fine salt
3 large eggs
165g (5¾oz) unsalted butter, melted
300ml (10fl oz) strained yogurt
100ml (3½fl oz) water
FOR THE SAUCE
100g (3½oz) unsalted butter
75g (2¾oz) plain flour
800ml (1⅓ pints) milk
80g (2¾oz) hard cheese, such as pecorino, grated
140g (5oz) hellim cheese, grated
Start by making the dough. Combine the flour, yeast, sugar and salt in a bowl. Make a well in the centre and add 2 eggs, the melted butter, yogurt and water. Bring together with your hands and knead for about 5 minutes on a lightly floured surface to form a smooth dough. Place in a clean bowl and cover with a clean damp tea towel. Set aside to rise for about 45 minutes, or until doubled in size.
Meanwhile, make the filling. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a high heat. Add the mince and cook, using a whisk to break it up, until browned all over, stirring occasionally. This will take about 8 minutes. Add the onions and continue to cook over a medium heat until lightly browned. Now add the remaining ingredients (except the sesame seeds) and cook over a medium-low heat for about 20 minutes. Set aside to cool.
To make the cheese sauce, melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the flour, whisk well and cook over a low heat for 5 minutes. Add one-third of the milk and whisk it in until smooth. Repeat with the remaining milk. Continue to cook over a low heat, whisking occasionally, for 15 minutes. Finally, add both the cheeses and cook for another 2 minutes. Set aside and allow to cool.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6 and line a large baking tray with baking parchment. Punch down the dough and divide it into 12–14 equal pieces on a lightly floured surface. Roll a piece of dough into a circle about 12cm (5in) in diameter. Place a heaped tablespoon of cheese sauce in the centre and spread it out slightly, ensuring you leave a 2cm (¾in) border all the way around the edge. Do the same with the beef filling. Fold over the dough to make a pasty shape, ensuring you press down the edges to seal them well. Place it on the prepared baking tray. Repeat the with the remaining dough, leaving a 2cm (¾in) gap between each one (you might need more than one baking tray).
Beat the remaining egg with about 2 tablespoons water, brush the pastries with this mixture and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake for 16–18 minutes, or until golden brown.
BAHARAT & CHILLI-SPICED FISH BÖREKS
These böreks would work well with all types of white fish, such as pollock, cod or haddock. You could even mix some prawns or crab in there too. I think they’re great as party food, or if you want to be a little fancy, you could serve one of them alongside a piece of roasted fish for a dinner party.
MAKES 10 – 12
1 egg white, for brushing
12 sheets of filo pastry
sunflower oil, for frying
FOR THE FILLING
100ml (3½fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
2 tablespoons sweet pepper paste (tatli biber salçasi)
1 tablespoon baharat (available in Turkish supermarkets)
2–4 tablespoons urfa chilli flakes (isot biber), depending on how hot you like it
2 teaspoons sweet smoked paprika
300g (10½oz) skinless fish fillet, diced
50g (1¾oz) sultanas
1 large handful mint leaves, shredded
1 large handful flat leaf parsley, shredded
flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Start by making the filling. Heat the oil in a large frying pan, add the onion and cook gently over a medium heat until golden brown. Add the garlic, sweet pepper paste, baharat, chilli flakes and paprika and continue to cook for 5 minutes. Add the fish and sultanas and cook for another 5 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked through. Remove from the heat and season with salt and black pepper. Transfer to a tray and spread it out to cool down quickly. Once cool, mix in the herbs and divide the mixture into 12 equal portions.
Beat the egg white lightly in a small bowl, just to break it up. Place a sheet of filo on a work surface with the long side nearest you. Fold it in half from left to right. Now place one portion of the filling in the centre of the edge closest to you, leaving a 4cm (1½in) gap on each side. From the edge closest to you, fold the filo over the filling twi
ce. Now fold in the sides. Brush the remaining pastry with egg white and continue to roll it up, ensuring you encase the filling tightly. Repeat this process with the remaining filo and filling.
Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer to 180°C (350°F). Alternatively, place a deep frying pan over a high heat and add enough oil to cover the böreks. When hot enough, a small cube of bread added to the oil should sizzle immediately.
Carefully add 4 böreks to the oil and fry for 1–2 minutes, or until golden brown. You might need to turn them over halfway if they don’t colour evenly. Remove and drain on kitchen paper, then fry the remaining böreks in the same way. Serve immediately.
SPINACH & FETA BÖREK
I’m not usually a huge fan of spinach, but in this börek I am. You can use other fillings too, such as a selection of cheeses, nuts, mushrooms and so on. Made as a large pie, rather than individual pastries, this is a favourite at Oklava as part of our brunch.
MAKES 1 X 30 CM (12 IN) PIE (8 – 12 SERVINGS)
100ml (3½fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
2 onions, finely chopped
1kg (2lb 4oz) large leaf spinach with stalks, roughly chopped (or 2 large bags of spinach leaves, 450g/1lb each)
2 large eggs
200ml (7fl oz) double cream
800g (1lb 12oz) Turkish white cheese or feta
1 tablespoon dried oregano
large bunch of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
24 sheets of filo pastry, about
48 x 25cm (19 x 10in) each
125g (4½oz) unsalted butter, melted
flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a small saucepan, add the onions and cook gently until golden brown. Place a large heavy-based pan over a high heat with one-third of the remaining olive oil. Add one-third of the spinach and cook until just wilted. Transfer to a colander set over a bowl and repeat the process with the rest of the spinach and oil in 2 batches. Squeeze out as much water from the spinach as possible, then combine it with the cooked onions and season with salt and pepper. Whisk together the eggs and cream.
Preheat the oven to 210°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6. Crumble the cheese into a bowl and stir in the oregano and parsley. To assemble the börek, start by brushing a 30 x 20 x 4cm (12 x 8 x 1½in) baking tray or a 30cm (12in) round baking tin with butter. Lay a sheet of filo in the tray, allowing it to hang over the edges, brush the filo with butter, then add another sheet on top. Repeat the process with 4 more filo layers, making sure some pastry hangs over on all sides.
Spread half the spinach mixture over the filo and pour in one-quarter of the egg mixture. Layer up another 4 sheets of filo, this time cutting each sheet in half so that the pastry does not hang over the edges, and brushing with butter in between each one. Now spread half the cheese mixture over the top and pour in one-quarter of the egg mixture. Top with another 4 halved sheets of filo, brushing each one with butter as before.
Spread over the remaining spinach mixture and pour in one-quarter of the egg mixture. Top with another 4 halved sheets of filo, brushing them with butter as before. Now spread over the final layer of cheese mixture, pour in the remaining egg mixture and press the whole lot down evenly.
Fold the overhanging edges of filo over the top. Finish the börek with 6 whole sheets of filo, brushing with butter in between each one and pushing in the edges with the handle of a metal spoon as you go. Brush the top with butter. Bake for 25 minutes, then turn the oven down to 190°C (375°C), Gas Mark 5 and bake for another 20 minutes. Allow the börek to cool before cutting it into 12 portions.
PIDES
When designing Oklava, there were two features I just had to include. One is our barbecue and the other is our big stone oven, where we make our pides and lahmacun, Turkish versions of pizza. The heat is so intense that you get an amazing crust on breads and pastry products. Chances are you won’t have a stone oven at home, but these pides work really well in a conventional oven too. Lahmacuns don’t, however, which is why I haven’t included a recipe here.
Traditionally, pides have toppings such as Turkish cheeses, peppers, onions, tomatoes, diced lamb or chicken. One of my favourites, which I always asked for when I was younger, has a little tomato sauce, Cypriot pastirma and an egg, and is delicious to eat hot or cold. As with everything we do at Oklava, these traditional pides are our source of inspiration for creating more contemporary versions. You could have a go at a simple version here before moving on to our more complex ones. For example, try mixing minced lamb with diced onions, peppers, tomato and parsley, then place the raw mixture on rolled-out pide dough and bake as below. Alternatively, you could try a mix of mozzarella, Cheddar, crumbly goats’ cheese and chopped parsley.
MAKES 6
625g (1lb 6oz) strong white bread flour (we use a Turkish flour called Bodrum), plus extra for dusting
12g (⅓oz) fresh yeast or 1 x 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fine salt
1 teaspoon caster sugar
340–360ml (11–13fl oz) lukewarm water
SIMPLE FILLING 1
500g (1lb 2oz) minced lamb
1 onion, diced
2 peppers, chopped
4 tomatoes, chopped
small bunch of parsley, chopped
SIMPLE FILLING 2
200g (7oz) Cheddar cheese, grated
200g (7oz) mozzarella cheese, diced
200g (7oz) goats’ cheese, crumbled
small bunch of parsley, chopped
PIDE DOUGH
If using fresh yeast, dissolve it in a little water. Place the flour, yeast, olive oil, salt and sugar in a large bowl or stand mixer. Mix well, then slowly begin to add the water, mixing with one hand. Do not add all the water at once, as you might not need it all. Add just enough to form a dough that doesn’t stick to your hands too much.
Tip it onto a clean, lightly floured surface. Knead for 5 minutes, or until a smooth dough forms. Shape it into a ball, put it in a clean bowl and cover with a clean damp tea towel. Leave it somewhere warm for 45–60 minutes until doubled in size.
Once the dough has risen, punch it back in the bowl, then tip onto a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough into a long sausage, then divide it into 6 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball, put them on a lightly floured surface and cover with a damp tea towel until you’re ready to use them.
Preheat the oven to 240°C (475°F), Gas Mark 9. Put a pizza stone or a large flat baking tray in the oven.
Place a ball of dough on a floured work surface and roll into an oval about 40 x 15cm (16 x 6in). Combine the raw ingredients of your chosen filling, place them on the rolled-out dough and fold in the edges as shown opposite. Slide onto a baking sheet. Make 5 more in the same way, then bake for 10–12 minutes.
CHICKEN & GARLIC KÖFTE PIDE WITH CHILLI YOGHURT, SMOKED SALSA, WALNUTS & FETA
Here is one of those recipes that just came to me, this time during a conversation with my sous chef, Nick. He was telling me that he missed cooking the lamb köfte we’d once had on the menu, while I was thinking that I wanted to put a new meat pide on. The result was that I combined them.
MAKES 6
1 quantity Pide dough
flour, for dusting
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
½ quantity Fried Dried Chilli Yogurt
120g (4¼oz) walnuts, lightly toasted and crushed
120g (4¼oz) feta
small handful mint, finely shredded
small handful flat leaf parsley, finely shredded
FOR THE CHICKEN KÖFTE
500g (1lb 2oz) minced chicken
1 red pepper, finely diced
1 onion, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
100g (3½oz) sweet pepper paste (tatli biber salçasi)
small bunch of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
fine salt
FOR THE SALSA
6 banana
shallots, skin on, halved lengthways
250g (9oz) baby plum tomatoes
10 long green Turkish peppers (Charleston peppers; use ordinary peppers if you can’t find them)
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
1 teaspoon dried oregano
100ml (3½fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
flaky sea salt
Preheat the oven to 240°C (475°F), Gas Mark 9. Put a pizza stone or a large flat baking tray in the oven.
Mix together all the ingredients for the chicken köfte. Season with salt, then fry a little and taste it: adjust the seasoning, as necessary and divide the mixture into 6 equal portions.
To make the smoked salsa, you’ll need a hot barbecue or a very hot ridged griddle pan. Working in batches, cook the shallots, tomatoes and peppers until their skins are blackened. Allow them to become cool enough to handle, then peel off the shallot and pepper skins and dice the flesh. Peel and crush the tomatoes with the back of a fork and combine them in a bowl with the shallots and peppers and the remaining ingredients for the salsa. Season with salt.
To make the pides (I suggest making them one at a time), roll out a ball of dough on a floured surface into a large oval shape about 40 x 15cm (16 x 6in). Spread one portion of the chicken köfte mixture down the centre, leaving a border of 3cm (1¼in) around the edge. Season with a little flaky salt. Fold in the sides as shown here, and pinch the ends together really well so that the pide doesn’t unravel during baking.