by Julia Child
Salt
Pour on stock or broth to cover the veal by ½ inch. Bring slowly to the simmer, and skim as necessary for several minutes. Add the vegetables and herb bouquet. Taste for seasoning and salt lightly if necessary. Cover partially and simmer very slowly for 1¼ to 1½ hours, or until the veal is tender when pierced with a fork. It should not be overcooked.
The onions
18 to 24 peeled white onions about 1 inch in diameter
½ cup of stock dipped from the simmering veal casserole
¼ tsp salt
1 Tb butter
While the blanquette is simmering, prepare the onions: Following directions for white-braised onions on this page, pierce a cross in the root ends and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes in a small, covered saucepan with the veal stock, salt, and butter. Set them aside.
When the veal is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a colander set over a bowl. Rinse out the casserole and return the meat to the casserole, removing any loose bones. Arrange the cooked onions over the meat.
Sauce velouté (3½ cups), and mushrooms
An 8-cup, heavy-bottomed, enameled saucepan
4 Tb butter
5 Tb flour
A wooden spoon
3¼ cups of veal cooking stock
A wire whip
18 to 24 fresh mushroom caps about 1 inch in diameter, tossed with 1 Tb lemon juice
Salt and white pepper
1 to 2 Tb lemon juice
In the saucepan, melt the butter, add the flour, and stir over low heat until they foam together for 2 minutes. Off heat, pour in the veal stock, beating vigorously with a wire whip. Bring the sauce to the boil, stirring. Simmer for 10 minutes, frequently skimming off the film which rises to the surface. Fold in the mushroom caps and simmer 10 minutes more, skimming. Taste the sauce very carefully for seasoning, adding salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste.
2 Tb cream or stock
Pour the sauce and mushrooms over the veal. Film the top of the sauce with 2 spoonfuls of cream or stock to prevent a skin from forming. Set aside, partially covered.
(*) May be done ahead to this point.
Cream and egg yolk enrichment
About 10 to 15 minutes before serving, reheat slowly to the simmer, basting the veal with the sauce. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
3 egg yolks
½ cup whipping cream
A 6-cup mixing bowl
A wire whip
Blend the egg yolks and cream in the bowl with wire whip. Beat in by spoonfuls 1 cup of the hot sauce. Then pour the mixture into the casserole, tilting it and basting the veal and vegetables to blend the rest of the sauce with the egg yolk mixture.
Set over moderate heat, gently shaking the casserole until sauce has thickened lightly, but do not let it come to the simmer. (If not served at once, film the top of the sauce with a spoonful or two of stock, partially cover the casserole, and keep warm over hot but not simmering water for 10 to 15 minutes.)
2 Tb minced parsley
Serve from the casserole or on a platter surrounded with rice, noodles, or potatoes. Decorate with parsley.
VEAL SCALLOPS
Escalopes de Veau
French veal scallops are boneless slices of meat cut ⅜ inch thick which are flattened to a thickness of ¼ inch. So that each scallop will constitute a neat, flat serving piece, it is cut across the grain from a solid piece of veal which contains no muscle separations. Scallops take from 8 to 10 minutes to cook, may be elegantly or simply sauced, and are always an expensive delicacy. They may be breaded or floured but are best, in our opinion, when sautéed au naturel.
AMOUNT TO BUY
Allow 2 or 3 scallops per person, depending on the size of the pieces of meat.
QUALITY
Because it is cooked so quickly, the veal should be of good quality, tender, and of the palest pink you can find. Dark pink and reddish veal tends to be tough when cooked this way.
SCALLOPS CUT FROM THE ROUND ROAST
In France, because of the French method of cutting the leg into lengthwise muscles, scallops are usually taken from the top round or noix. This cut gives solid slices of meat, with no muscle separations, which cook without curling. You may obtain the same effect if you buy slices of round roast ⅜ inch thick, and then separate them into their natural muscle divisions. The largest piece is the top round, which may be cut in half. The bottom round with its eye insert will furnish one or two more scallops. Usually one more of reasonable size can be found among the muscle divisions which make up the sirloin tip at the side of the meat nearest the bone. Smaller pieces may be saved for second helpings or reserved for stew or for ground meat.
SCALLOPS CUT FROM RIB CHOPS
Rib chops are more expensive but easier to use and furnish scallops all of the same size. Have your butcher bone a length of the rib section (rack) and cut the meat into ⅜-inch slices across the grain. Bones and trimming may be saved for veal stock.
PREPARATION FOR COOKING
Remove the transparent filaments, or the skin and any fat surrounding the scallops. If left on, the meat will curl up as it cooks. Place each scallop between sheets of waxed paper and pound briefly and not too roughly; use a mallet, the flat of a cleaver, or a rolling pin to reduce the scallop to a thickness of ¼ inch. If they are not to be cooked immediately, wrap the scallops in waxed paper and refrigerate them.
ESCALOPES DE VEAU À LA CRÈME
[Sautéed Veal Scallops with Mushrooms and Cream]
This recipe for veal scallops makes a perfect main course for a chic little luncheon. If you are reasonably quick you can complete it in 30 minutes or less, and you may prepare it in advance; it only needs a 5-minute heating before it is ready to eat. Serve with it buttered rice or risotto, green beans, peas, or braised endive, and a chilled white Burgundy wine.
For 6 people
12 veal scallops prepared according to the preceding directions
Dry the scallops thoroughly on paper towels. The meat will not brown if it is damp.
2 Tb butter and 1 Tb oil, more as necessary
A 10- to 12-inch enameled skillet
Place the butter and oil in the skillet over moderately high heat. When you see that the butter foam has almost subsided, arrange 3 or 4 pieces of veal in the skillet. Do not crowd them together. Sauté on one side for a minute or so regulating heat so fat is very hot but is not burning. Turn, and sauté the meat on its other side. (Each scallop should be lightly browned and cooked to the point where the juices have turned from rose to yellow. It is done when it has just become springy rather than squashy to the pressure of your finger.) Remove the scallops to a dish, and continue with the rest in the same manner, adding more butter and oil as needed.
3 Tb minced shallots or green onions
2 Tb butter if needed
Pour all but 2 tablespoons of fat out of the skillet. If fat has burned, discard it and add 2 Tb butter. Stir in the shallots or onions and cook slowly for 1 minute.
½ cup dry white wine or ⅓ cup dry white vermouth or Madeira
⅔ cup brown stock or canned beef bouillon
A wooden spoon
Pour the wine and stock or bouillon into the skillet and scrape up all the coagulated cooking juices with wooden spoon. Boil rapidly until liquid has reduced to about ¼ cup.
1½ cups whipping cream ½ Tb arrowroot or cornstarch blended with 1 Tb water
Salt and pepper to taste
Pour the cream and the starch mixture into the skillet and boil for several minutes until cream has reduced and thickened slightly. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper.
½ lb. sliced fresh mushrooms
2 Tb butter
1 Tb oil
Salt and pepper
In a separate skillet, sauté the mushrooms in very hot butter and oil for 4 to 5 minutes to brown them lightly. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and scrape them into the cream sauce. Simmer for 1 minute. Remove from heat and correct seasoning
.
Salt and pepper
Sprinkle salt and pepper over the sautéed scallops and arrange in the skillet, basting with the cream and mushrooms.
(*) May be done ahead to this point. Set skillet aside, partially covered.
Several minutes before serving, cover the skillet and bring almost to the simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, to warm the veal thoroughly but not to overcook it.
A hot platter Parsley sprigs
Arrange the scallops on a hot platter. Spoon the cream and mushrooms over them and surround, if you wish, with the rice or risotto. Decorate with parsley, and serve.
VARIATIONS
Escalopes de Veau à l’Estragon
[Sautéed Veal Scallops with Brown Tarragon Sauce]
Rice, noodles, or sautéed potatoes go well with this, and green peas or beans. Accompany with a red Bordeaux wine.
For 6 people
12 veal scallops
Prepare and sauté the veal as described in the preceding master recipe. Place on a plate while completing the following sauce.
3 Tb minced shallots or green onions
½ cup dry white wine or ⅓ cup dry white vermouth
1 Tb fragrant tarragon, fresh or dried
1 cup brown sauce, or 1 cup brown stock or canned beef bouillon plus 1 Tb arrowroot or cornstarch blended with 1 Tb water
Cook the shallots or onions for a minute in the sauté skillet, then deglaze the skillet with the wine and tarragon, reducing the liquid to 2 or 3 spoonfuls. Add the brown sauce, or the stock and starch mixture, and boil for 2 to 3 minutes until the sauce has reduced and thickened lightly. Correct seasoning.
Salt and pepper
A hot platter
2 Tb softened butter
1 Tb fresh minced tarragon or minced parsley
Season the veal with salt and pepper. Return it to the skillet, and baste with the sauce. Cover the skillet and heat for 4 to 5 minutes without boiling. Arrange the meat on a hot platter. Off heat, swirl the butter into the sauce by small spoonfuls. Swirl in the herbs. Spoon the sauce over the veal and serve.
Escalopes de Veau Chasseur
[Sautéed Veal Scallops with Mushrooms and Tomatoes]
Serve rice, noodles, or sautéed potatoes with this, green peas or beans, or sautéed eggplant, and a Beaujolais or chilled rosé wine.
For 6 people
12 veal scallops
Prepare and sauté the veal as described in the preceding master recipe. Place the meat on a plate while completing the following sauce.
¼ cup minced shallots or green onions
¾ lb. firm, ripe, red tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, and chopped (makes 1 cup of pulp)
½ clove mashed garlic
¼ tsp salt
Pinch of pepper
½ tsp basil or tarragon
½ cup white wine or ⅓ cup dry white vermouth
½ cup brown sauce, or ½ cup brown stock or canned beef bouillon plus 1 Tb arrowroot or cornstarch blended with 1 Tb water
Cook the shallots or onions for 1 minute in the skillet. Stir in the tomatoes, garlic, seasonings, and herbs. Cover the skillet and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour in the wine, and the brown sauce or the stock and starch. Boil rapidly for 4 to 5 minutes until the sauce has reduced and thickened. Correct seasoning and remove from heat.
½ lb. sliced fresh mushrooms
2 Tb butter
1 Tb oil
Salt and pepper
In a separate skillet, sauté the mushrooms in very hot butter and oil to brown lightly. Season to taste and scrape them into the tomato sauce. Simmer for 1 minute and correct seasoning again.
A hot platter
2 Tb fresh minced tarragon, basil, or parsley
Sprinkle the veal scallops with salt and pepper and return them to the skillet. Baste with the sauce. Cover and heat for 4 to 5 minutes without boiling. Serve on a hot platter and decorate with the herbs.
VEAL CHOPS OR CUTLETS
Côtes de Veau
The best treatment for veal chops, in our opinion, is the simple one of browning them, then cooking them slowly in a covered skillet or casserole for 15 to 20 minutes until their juices have turned from rose to yellow. They are particularly good if aromatic herbs and vegetables are braised with them as veal usually needs other flavors to make it more interesting.
PREPARATION FOR COOKING
Buy loin, rib, or shoulder chops 1 to 1¼ inches thick. Have the corner of the backbone at the top of the chop cut off so the meat will lie as flat as possible on either side.
CÔTES DE VEAU AUX HERBES
[Veal Chops Braised with Herbs]
This is an excellent basic recipe for all veal chops, whether they are served with a plain deglazing sauce made from the pan juices, or with any of the suggestions listed at the end of the recipe. Sautéed potatoes, broiled tomatoes, string beans, and a chilled rosé wine would go well with chops prepared in the following manner.
Cooking Note: For 2 or 3 chops, the final cooking may be done on top of the stove in a covered skillet. For 6 chops, it is easier to finish cooking them in the oven.
For 6 people
Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
A heavy, 10- to 12-inch fireproof casserole with cover6 large veal chops cut 1 inch thick
A 10- to 12-inch skillet
2 Tb butter and 1 Tb oil, more if needed
Salt and pepper
Dry the chops on paper towels. Heat the butter and oil in the skillet until you see that the butter foam has almost subsided, then brown the chops, two or three at a time, for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. As they are done, season with salt and pepper and arrange in the casserole, overlapping them slightly.
3 Tb butter, if needed
3 Tb minced shallots or green onions
Optional: 1 clove mashed garlic
½ cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth
1 tsp mixed basil and thyme, or tarragon
Pour all but 3 tablespoons of fat out of the skillet. If fat has burned, pour it all out and add butter. Stir in the shallots or onions and optional garlic, and cook slowly for 1 minute. Then pour in the wine, add the herbs, and simmer for a few minutes, scraping up the coagulated sautéing juices. Scrape the mixture into the casserole over the chops.
Heat the casserole on top of the stove until the liquid is simmering. Cover and set in lower third of preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Turn the chops and baste them with the liquid in the casserole 2 or 3 times during this period. The chops are done as soon as their juices run yellow when the meat is pierced with a fork.
A hot platter
¼ cup stock, canned bouillon, or cream
Salt and pepper
1 to 2 Tb softened butter
Remove the chops to a hot platter. Add the stock, bouillon, or cream to the casserole and boil rapidly for a few minutes until the liquid has reduced and thickened slightly. Correct seasoning. Off heat, swirl in the butter by bits. Pour the sauce over the chops and serve.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE
Veal chops may be browned well in advance of their final cooking. Once cooked, they may be kept in the hot, turned-off oven, casserole cover askew, for about 20 minutes. But do not allow them to overcook or overheat for they will dry out.
VARIATIONS: SAUCES
In addition to the following sauces, you may use the mushrooms and cream, mushrooms and tomato, or brown tarragon sauces described in the recipes for veal scallops.
Sauce Tomate or Coulis de Tomates, tomato sauce
Sauce Madère, brown sauce with Madeira wine
Sauce Robert, brown sauce with mustard and onions
Sauce Duxelles, brown sauce with diced mushrooms and herbs
Before cooking the chops, prepare 2 cups of one of the sauces listed at the left. When the chops are done, pour the sauce into the casserole, basting the chops. If not to be served immediately, set aside. Shortly before serving, cover the casserole and reheat for 4 to 5 minutes without simmering. Arrange the chops on a platter. Off heat, swish 1 or 2
tablespoons of butter into the casserole, then pour the sauce over the chops.
OTHER VARIATIONS
The recipe for sautéed chicken aux herbes de Provence, has an herb-and-garlic type of hollandaise sauce which can be adapted for veal chops. Another idea is to add almost cooked small potatoes and onions, and browned lardons of blanched bacon, all of which will finish cooking with the chops; follow the directions for them in poulet en cocotte but boil the vegetables long enough so they are almost tender before arranging them in the casserole to bake with the chops. Following the same system with other vegetables, you could use a combination of butter-braised carrots and artichoke hearts with sautéed mushrooms.
VEAL STEAKS
Veal steaks 1 to 1¼ inches thick cut from the round roast or the sirloin may be cooked exactly the same way as veal chops.
GROUND VEAL PATTIES
Fricadelles de Veau
Here is a fine recipe for ground veal patties. Arranged on a bed of braised spinach, surrounded with baked or stuffed tomatoes, and served with a chilled rosé wine, they make a most attractive informal main course. Other vegetables are suggested in the list under roast veal. Neck, shoulder, shank, or breast meat may be used for grinding; be sure the meat has first been pared of gristle, tendons, filaments and other miscellaneous matter. Always include a proportion of ham fat, pork fat, or sausage meat; otherwise the patties will be too dry.