MAKES 12 MUFFINS
8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (95 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) corn flour
½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour
1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp fine sea salt
½ cup (120 ml) well-shaken buttermilk
1 tsp vanilla extract
1½ cups (215 g) fresh blueberries, plus a handful for the tops
Coarse sugar such as turbinado or demerara, for sprinkling
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line a standard muffin pan with 12 paper liners. (Alternatively, skip the liners and grease the pans well with softened butter.)
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl with a wooden spoon), beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally, 2–3 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time; it’s okay if the mixture looks broken at this point.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, sift together the sweet rice, corn and oat flours with the baking powder, baking soda and salt. Stir together the buttermilk and vanilla in another small measuring pitcher or bowl.
With the mixer on low, stir in one-third of the flour mixture, stirring until just combined, then stir in half of the buttermilk mixture, stirring just until combined and scraping the bowl as needed. Continue until you’ve used up all the ingredients.
Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a flexible silicone spatula to gently fold in the berries. Divide the batter among the muffin cups, filling them nearly to the top (a #25 spring-loaded ice cream scoop makes this a snap). Sprinkle the tops with the coarse sugar and dot with a few extra berries.
Bake the muffins until their tops are golden and a toothpick inserted into the center of one comes out mostly clean with a few moist crumbs, 22–28 minutes, rotating the pan after 15 minutes for even baking. Let the muffins cool in their pan for 5–10 minutes, then remove to a cooling rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
The muffins are best the day of baking but will keep, airtight at room temperature, for up to 2 days.
MILLET SKILLET CORNBREAD WITH CHERRIES AND HONEY
{CORN, SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
This cornbread was inspired by a millet muffin from the best breakfast place I know of, Plow on Potrero Hill in San Francisco. If you’re lucky enough to grab a millet muffin, you’ll find it packed with whole millet seed kissed with butter and honey. For days when a simpler, homemade breakfast is in order, I stir together this easy batter studded with toasted millet seed and juicy sweet cherries. When cherries aren’t about, make this with 1 cup (115 g) blackberries in their place.
This recipe fits perfectly into an 8-inch (20-cm) cast-iron skillet, and the hot, buttered skillet makes the edges extra crisp and golden. However, it’s essential that you turn the bread out of the pan shortly after baking lest it pick up the metallic-tasting seasoning from the pan. You can also bake this in an 8-inch (20-cm) round cake pan; in this case, skip the pan-heating step, grease the pan with 1 teaspoon room-temperature butter and line the bottom with a round of parchment paper cut to fit. See the variation below for baking a double batch of this cornbread.
MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) BREAD, 6 SERVINGS
2 tbsp (20 g) uncooked whole millet seed
3 tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter
½ cup (80 g) yellow cornmeal (NOT polenta; preferably Arrowhead Mills GF Yellow Cornmeal)
¼ cup (40 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup (25 g) GF oat flour
2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
⅜ tsp fine sea salt
1 large egg
2 tbsp (30 ml) honey, plus more for serving
½ cup (120 ml) well-shaken buttermilk
4 oz (115 g) pitted sweet cherries (1 cup) (frozen and not defrosted works, too)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C).
Place the millet seed in a small, dry skillet set over medium heat, and toast, shuffling the pan frequently, until the millet smells fragrant, pops a bit and takes on a bit of color, 2–4 minutes. Tip the millet into a large heatproof bowl to stop the cooking.
Place the butter in an 8-inch (20-cm) ovenproof skillet and place in the oven to melt while you prepare the batter, taking care not to let the butter burn.
In the large bowl containing the millet, whisk together the cornmeal, sweet rice and oat flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt to combine and eradicate clumps. Make a well in the flour mixture, crack in the egg and add the honey and buttermilk. Remove the hot pan from the oven, swirl the butter around the sides of the pan and pour the rest into the batter, whisking the batter vigorously just until well combined. Scrape the batter into the hot pan, spread into an even layer and dot the cherries evenly over the top; they will sink into the batter as it bakes. Bake the cornbread until golden on top and a tester inserted near the center comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs, 20–30 minutes.
Let the cornbread cool for a minute or two, then turn out of the pan and onto a plate or cutting board, invert again onto another serving board or plate, and let cool for at least 20 minutes and up to several hours; it is still baking from residual heat. Serve the cornbread warm or at room temperature. The cornbread is best the day of baking but will keep, airtight at room temperature, for up to 2 days.
VARIATION: MILLET SKILLET CORNBREAD {DOUBLE BATCH}
To feed a crowd, double all of the ingredients and bake the batter in a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking pan greased with 1 teaspoon room-temperature butter or a 10-inch (25-cm) cast-iron skillet, increasing the bake time to 30–40 minutes.
SORGHUM PEACH OYEN PANCAKE
{SORGHUM, SWEET RICE}
I call this an oven pancake, but the batter is really closer to a crepe, with a higher ratio of milk and eggs to flour that gives this baked breakfast a custardy texture not unlike the clafoutis on here and here. Sorghum flour has a mild, nutty flavor that pairs beautifully with floral honey and peaches, and it retains a bit of texture in the finished product that reminds me of the cream of wheat cereal my dad would make on cool mornings when I was growing up. You can either top slices with an extra drizzle of honey or go all out and sprinkle the whole thing with powdered sugar for a dramatic presentation. Mine always sticks to the bottom a bit, so don’t be alarmed if the first slice is difficult to get out of the pan; a thin metal spatula will unstick subsequent slices. If the batter separates a bit during baking, this is normal and doesn’t detract from the deliciosity of this pancake. For a quicker breakfast, make the batter the night before and refrigerate overnight; whisk to combine in the morning and proceed with the recipe. And feel free to trade in apricots, pitted cherries or nectarines for the peaches.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
PEACHES
2 tbsp (28 g) unsalted butter
2 large peaches (about 14 oz [400 g] total), cut into ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick wedges (enough for a single layer in the skillet)
2 tbsp (30 ml) honey
PANCAKE
½ cup (60 g) sorghum flour
½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ tsp fine sea salt
3 large eggs
1 tbsp (15 ml) honey
1 tsp vanilla extract
1¼ cups (295 ml) whole milk
FOR SERVING (OPTIONAL)
Powdered sugar or honey
Whipped Cream, Crème Fraîche or plain Greek yogurt
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C).
For the peaches, place the butter in a 10-inch (25-cm) ovenproof skillet with 2-inch (5-cm) high sides and place in the oven to melt, 2–3 minutes. Remove
from the oven and swirl or brush the butter over the sides of the pan. Carefully add the peaches in a single layer to the buttery skillet and drizzle with the honey. Return to the oven and roast until the juices bubble thickly, about 15 minutes, turning the peaches once or twice.
Meanwhile, to make the pancake, in a large bowl, whisk together the sorghum and sweet rice flours with the salt. Add the eggs, honey, vanilla and a splash of the milk and whisk vigorously until very smooth. Gradually whisk in the rest of the milk until smooth. Alternatively, combine all ingredients in a blender and puree smooth. The batter will be very loose.
If the batter has separated, whisk to recombine, then pour the batter over the peaches in the hot skillet. Return to the oven and bake until the pancake is puffed, pale golden on top, deeply bronzed around the edges and cooked through, 25–35 minutes. Remove from the oven.
To serve, sprinkle all over with the powdered sugar, if desired. Cut the pancake into wedges with a sharp knife, then use a thin metal spatula to remove slices from the pan and onto plates. Optionally, top with whipped cream and honey if desired. Serve warm.
Leftover pancake keeps well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days. Reheat before serving for best results.
POPPY SEED, PLUOT AND BUCKWHEAT STREUSEL MUFFINS
{SWEET RICE, OAT, BUCKWHEAT}
These muffins are essentially coffee cake in individual form. Earthy buckwheat, oats, brown sugar and cinnamon set off sweet-tart bursts of pluot lodged within a moist and tender crumb crowned with sandy streusel. Pluots are a plum-apricot hybrid that are three-fourths plum and come with all of the plum’s sweet/tart/floral trappings but with a slightly firmer, sweeter flesh. That said, these muffins take well to variations, so try them with any summer berry or stone fruit, fresh figs or ripe chunks of pear in place of the pluots. The poppy seeds add a nice bit of crunch and depth of flavor, but the muffins will still explode with deliciousness should you decide to leave them out. Do be sure to press the streusel gently into the batter prior to baking to help it adhere.
MAKES 14 MUFFINS
STREUSEL
3 tbsp (42 g) cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, plus 1 tsp for greasing the tops of the muffin tins
¼ cup (35 g) sweet white rice flour
2 tbsp (10 g) oat flour
1 tbsp (5 g) tapioca flour
½ cup (50 g) GF old-fashioned rolled oats
¼ cup (50 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar
1½ tsp (4 g) poppy seeds
½ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ plus ⅛ tsp fine sea salt
MUFFINS
⅓ cup (80 ml) whole milk (or plant milk such as almond milk)
2 tbsp (15 g) poppy seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) vanilla extract
8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (130 g) packed organic light brown sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
¾ cup (115 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (50 g) oat flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) buckwheat flour
2 tsp (8 g) baking powder
½ tsp fine sea salt
9 oz (252 g) pluots (about 3), ripe but firm (1½ cups [252 g] pluot chunks)
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Rub the tops of 2 standard muffin pans with the 1 teaspoon softened butter (this will prevent any overflow from sticking) and line with 14 paper liners. (Alternatively, skip the liners and grease the pans well with softened butter.)
To make the streusel, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the sweet rice, oat and tapioca flours with the rolled oats, brown sugar, poppy seeds, cinnamon, salt and remaining 3 tablespoons (42 g) butter. Mix on medium-low speed until the butter is worked in and the streusel comes together in clumps, about 2 minutes. (Alternatively, rub the butter in with your fingertips.) Scrape the streusel into a small bowl and set aside; no need to wash the mixer bowl.
To make the muffins, in a measuring pitcher, stir together the milk, poppy seeds and vanilla and set aside. This will plump up the seeds a bit and draw out their unique flavor.
Meanwhile, in the now-empty bowl of the stand mixer (or in a large bowl with a wooden spoon), combine the butter and brown sugar. Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice. Add the eggs one at a time, beating to combine after each addition; the mixture may look broken at this point and that’s okay.
While the butter does its thing, sift the sweet rice, oat and buckwheat flours with the baking powder and salt into a medium bowl. When the eggs are incorporated into the butter, turn the mixer to low. Add one-third of the flour mixture, mixing to combine, then add half of the milk mixture, mixing to combine. Continue until you’ve used up all the milk and flour mixtures, scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl as well as the paddle to make sure the batter is homogenous.
To prepare the pluots, use a sharp paring or serrated knife to cut the flesh off of the pits, then into ½- to 1-inch (1.3- to 2.5-cm) chunks; you should have 1½ cups of prepared fruit. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a flexible spatula to gently fold in the pluot chunks until evenly distributed.
Use a tablespoon or spring-loaded ice cream scoop to divide the batter among the muffin cups, filling them nearly to the top and mounding them in the center, and making sure to include some pluot pieces in the last couple of muffins. Sprinkle the streusel over the muffins and press it in slightly. Bake the muffins until the tops are golden and a tester inserted into the center of one comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs, 22–32 minutes. Remove the muffins from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes, then carefully remove from the pans and let cool to warm or room temperature, at least 10 more minutes. Store airtight at room temperature for up to 2 days.
HUCKLEBERRY BUCKWHEAT CHEESE BLINTZES
{BUCKWHEAT, SWEET RICE}
My paternal grandmother, whom we called Bubba, made the best cheese blintzes—little parcels of lightly sweetened farmer cheese wrapped in soft crepes and fried in butter, which we would eat with sour cream and applesauce. Not exactly health food. But adding fresh berries and loads of buckwheat flour, and frying them in the thinnest layer of ghee, helps lighten these up. A drizzle of maple syrup is just the thing to add earthy sweetness, and I confess to liking a dollop of sour cream or Greek yogurt to up the creamy factor. Ghee is your friend for frying, as it has a high smoke point and warm flavor. Huckleberries, with their intense flavor and low water content, make an ideal filling, though wild blueberries work beautifully (and are often available frozen) as do cultivated blueberries. Assembled blintzes freeze brilliantly; to serve, just fry them on both sides over low heat until golden and heated through. Look for farmer cheese that’s like a firmer version of ricotta.
MAKES ABOUT 12 BLINTZES, 4–6 SERVINGS
BUCKWHEAT CREPES
1 cup (235 ml) whole milk
4 large eggs
1 tbsp (10 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
¾ cup (105 g) buckwheat flour
¼ cup (35 g) sweet white rice flour
1 tbsp (14 g) melted butter
FILLING
1 lb (450 g) farmer cheese
1½ tbsp (20 g) organic granulated cane sugar
1 egg yolk
Big pinch of salt ( tsp)
1 tbsp (14 g) melted butter
¾ cup (100 g) fresh or frozen huckleberries (or wild blueberries)
FOR FRYING AND SERVING
2 tbsp (28 g) ghee or unsalted butter
Extra huckleberries
Maple syrup
Greek yogurt, sour cream or Crème Fraîche
To make the crepes, in a blender, combine the milk, eggs, sugar, salt, buckwheat flour and sweet rice flour. Blend on low to combine, scraping down the sides of the blender once or twice. With the motor running, blend in the melted butter. Pour the batter into a measuring pitcher or bo
wl and stick a spatula in there; you’ll need to stir the batter occasionally while cooking the crepes in order to incorporate the flecks of buckwheat that tend to sink to the bottom. Have a large plate by the stove on which to stack the cooked crepes.
To make the filling, in a medium bowl, stir together the cheese, sugar, egg yolk and salt. Quickly stir in the melted butter, then gently fold in the huckleberries.
To fry the crepes, heat an 8-inch (20-cm) crepe pan or skillet over medium heat, and use a scrunched-up paper towel to swipe it with a bit of ghee or butter. (Too much butter will cause the batter to slip as you swirl it to coat the pan.)
Pour a scant ¼ cup (59 ml) of batter onto the crepe pan, tilting, swirling and shuffling to coat it evenly with a thin layer of batter. Cook the crepe until just barely set on top, 30–60 seconds. Use a thin, metal spatula to ease the edges of the crepe up off the pan, then slide (or drag) the crepe onto the plate, cooked side down. It should be barely colored on the bottom.
Continue cooking the crepes, swiping the pan with a bit of butter between crepes, and adjusting the heat so that the pan doesn’t burn but the crepes cook in 30–60 seconds each.
To fill the blintzes, place 2½ tablespoons (38 g) of cheese filling on the lower third of a crepe and fold the bottom up over the cheese. Fold the sides in so that they just touch, then roll the blintz up from the filled end up to form a parcel—it should look something like an egg roll. Stack the filled blintzes on a plate.
When the blintzes have all been filled, melt some butter or ghee in your crepe pan over medium heat (or use another large skillet if you like). (Preheat your oven to 200°F [100°C] if you’re making these for a crowd and need to keep them warm while you fry the next batch.) Fry the blintzes until they are golden on the bottom, about 2 minutes, then flip and brown on the second side, another 2 minutes. Have the heat low enough so that the filling heats through without the bottoms burning.
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