To make the glaze, in a small bowl, whisk together the powdered sugar, vanilla bean seeds and enough lemon juice to make a drizzle-able glaze. Whisk well to eradicate lumps. Use a pastry brush to drizzle and brush the glaze all over the cake.
Serve the cake at room temperature, scattered with tiny lemon verbena leaves and extra berries if you like. The cake keeps well, airtight at room temperature, for up to 2 days, or refrigerated for up to a few days (let come to room temperature before eating for best results).
MESQUITE CHOCOLATE CAKES WITH WHIPPED CRÈME FRAÎCHE AND RASPBERRIES
{MESQUITE}
These little chocolate cupcakes fall somewhere between a flourless chocolate cake and a more traditional cupcake. Mesquite flour makes the batter sturdier while adding a touch of warm, earthy flavor that underscores the bittersweet chocolate. Topped with whipped crème fraîche and raspberries, they’ll win fans at any party or potluck.
The cakes are best at room temperature, so assemble them shortly before serving for best results. They are a bit messier to eat than traditional cupcakes, so do hand out napkins. If you don’t have mesquite flour on hand, these work well with an equal measure of almond flour.
MAKES 10 INDIVIDUAL CAKES
CAKES
6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter
6 oz (170 g) bittersweet chocolate (60–70% cacao mass), chopped (about 1 cup)
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (80 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (40 g) mesquite flour, sifted
¼ tsp fine sea salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 large eggs, at room temperature, separated
TOPPING
½ cup (120 ml) Crème Fraîche
⅓ cup (80 ml) heavy cream
1 tbsp (12 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp vanilla extract
1 pint (~200 g) raspberries, rinsed and dried
A handful of cacao nibs (optional, for serving)
To make the cakes, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Fill a standard muffin pan with 10 paper liners.
In a large heatproof bowl set over a pot of barely simmering water, combine the butter and chocolate. Stir occasionally until the mixture is melted and smooth, 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in 3 tablespoons (40 g) of the sugar and all of the mesquite flour, salt, vanilla and finally the egg yolks.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip the egg whites on medium-high speed until foamy. Slowly sprinkle in the remaining 3 tablespoons (40 g) sugar and continue whipping until the whites hold soft peaks (when you pull the whip out and turn it upside down, the egg whites form a peak that flops over). Be careful not to overwhip the whites or they will be difficult to incorporate into the batter and will make for denser cakes.
Stir one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture until just combined, then gently fold in the remaining two-thirds until no streaks remain. Divide the batter among the lined muffin cups, filling them three-fourths of the way to the top. Bake the cakes until puffed and cracked, and a toothpick inserted into the centers comes out with moist crumbs, 20–25 minutes. Let cool completely. The cakes can be made up to 1 or 2 days ahead and stored airtight at room temperature for up to 2 days.
To make the topping, combine the crème fraîche, heavy cream, sugar and vanilla extract in the chilled bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment. Whip on medium-high speed until the mixture holds firm peaks. Chill until needed.
When ready to serve, dollop the cooled cakes with the whipped crème fraîche and top with a handful of raspberries and a few cacao nibs. Serve soon after assembling.
NOTE: When baking these, be sure to have your eggs at room temperature; cold eggs can cause the batter to seize and firm up, making it difficult to work with. To quickly warm your eggs, place them, still in their shells, in a bowl of hot tap water for 5 minutes or so.
VANILLA BUTTER CAKE WITH WHIPPED MASCARPONE AND SUMMER BERRIES
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
This buttery yellow layer cake filled with billows of cream and loads of summer berries is not unlike a giant berry shortcake. Slices always remind me of my dad, who each summer would top store-bought pound cake with whipped cream and ripe strawberries, which he’d toss in a little Triple Sec. Though impressive to look at, it’s stupid easy to put together and it tastes even better after a day in the fridge. Mascarpone adds body to the whipped cream and helps it hold its shape, and a double dose of vanilla (bean and extract) adds sweetness to a neutral cake base made soft and springy from sweet rice, oat and millet flours. Serve this cake at cool room temperature so the butter in the cake softens up but the cream stays firm. And if you want to try this Dad-style, brush the cake layers with a bit of Triple Sec or another GF orange liqueur before layering with the berries.
MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) 2-LAYER CAKE, ABOUT 10 SERVINGS
CAKE
8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus 1 tsp for the pan
¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar
Seeds from 1 vanilla bean
2 large eggs, at room temperature
¾ cup (105 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (50 g) GF oat flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) millet flour
1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp fine sea salt
½ cup (120 ml) well-shaken buttermilk
1 tsp vanilla extract
WHIPPED MASCARPONE AND BERRIES
¾ cup (170 g) mascarpone
1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream
Seeds from ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar
5 cups (500 g) mixed summer berries (strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries)
Honey or sugar for the berries (optional, if berries are tart)
To make the cake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Grease an 8-inch (20-cm) round cake pan with 2-inch (5-cm) sides with the 1 teaspoon softened butter and line the bottom with a round of parchment paper cut to fit.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the remaining 8 tablespoons (113 g) butter, sugar and vanilla seeds together on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2–3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition, and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. In a medium-sized bowl, sift together the sweet rice, oat and millet flours with the baking powder, baking soda and salt.
Add half of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and beat on low speed until just combined. Beat in the buttermilk and vanilla, mixing until just combined, then beat in the remaining flour mixture, beating until well combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice. Remove the bowl from the mixer and stir with a flexible silicone spatula to make sure the batter is homogenous.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread into an even layer. Bake the cake until the top springs back to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs, 35–45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely, 1–2 hours.
To make the whipped mascarpone, place the mascarpone, heavy cream, vanilla bean seeds and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or use a large bowl and a handheld whisk or hand blender). Beat the mixture on low speed until combined, then increase to medium and whip until the mixture holds firm peaks, a minute or so. If you overwhip and the mixture becomes grainy, you can rescue it by folding in several more tablespoons of heavy cream until the mixture loosens up. Cover and chill until needed, up to 1 day.
To assemble the cake, rinse the berries and let them dry on paper towels. Hull and quarter the strawberries, and halve the blackberries if large. Turn the cooled cake out of its pan and peel away the parchment paper. Place the cake on a cutting board and use a large serrated knife to slice t
he cake in half horizontally, making the halves as even as possible. Place the bottom half cut side up on a serving plate or stand. Spread the cake with half of the whipped mascarpone and top with 2 cups (200 g) of the berries, pressing the berries into the cream slightly. If the berries are tart, drizzle with a bit of honey or sugar. Top with the remaining cake half, cut side down, and spread with the remaining mascarpone and berries, mounding the berries on top. Sprinkle with honey or sugar if you like. Serve the cake immediately, or chill for up to 1 day.
CHOCOLATE ZUCCHINI CAKE WITH MATCHA CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
{SORGHUM, SWEET RICE}
Perhaps it’s all the sugar I eat as a professional baker, but I love going to the dentist. And while it may seem wrong, I often show up with a box of baked goods in tow. Some dentists might give you a talking-to for tempting them with evil sugar, but mine has a wicked sweet tooth. When I proffered a box of this cake on my last visit, she called all the hygienists into her office for a slice, and one after another they trooped into the waiting room with brown crumbs about the lips to profess their love for this cake. I can’t blame them. This tastes a bit like a classic chocolate cake, but with a fudgy texture from zucchini and sweet rice and sorghum flours and an eye-opening finish of matcha cream cheese frosting. It’s sure to win you fans in the unlikeliest of places.
Be sure to measure the zucchini by weight or volume; they can vary greatly in size and too much zucchini will lead to a soggy cake. For cupcakes, divide the batter among 12 paper-lined muffin cups and bake for 18–22 minutes. Do feel free to leave the matcha out of the frosting if making this for kiddos, or decrease the amount if you’re not accustomed to its assertive flavor.
MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) SQUARE CAKE, 9 LARGE SERVINGS OR 16 SMALL SERVINGS
CAKE
8 oz (225 g) zucchini (about 2 small)
1 cup (215 g) packed organic light brown sugar
2 large eggs
¼ cup (60 ml) light olive oil or sunflower oil
¼ cup (60 ml) whole milk
1 tsp vanilla extract
¾ cup (60 g) Dutch-process cocoa powder
¾ cup plus 2 tbsp (115 g) sorghum flour
¼ cup (35 g) sweet white rice flour
2 tsp (8 g) baking powder
½ tsp fine sea salt
FROSTING
6 oz (¾ cup [170 g]) cream cheese, softened
3 tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter, softened
¾ cup (85 g) powdered sugar
1 tbsp (5 g) good-quality culinary-grade matcha
⅛ tsp fine sea salt
To make the cake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking pan with 2 crisscrossing pieces of parchment paper, leaving an overhang on each side. (Alternatively, grease the pan with 1 teaspoon softened unsalted butter.)
Trim the zucchini and grate them on the medium holes of a box grater (the ones that measure ⅛ inch [2–3 mm]); you should have 1 cup (about 200 g) packed grated zucchini. Place the grated zucchini in a large bowl and add the brown sugar, eggs, oil, milk and vanilla extract, stirring to combine well. Place a strainer over the bowl and sift the cocoa powder, sorghum flour, sweet rice flour, baking powder and salt into the zucchini mixture, pushing through any clumps, then stir well to combine.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth into an even layer. Bake the cake until a toothpick inserted near the center comes out with moist crumbs, 45–55 minutes. Let cool completely, at least 30 minutes and up to 1 day. The cake can be wrapped and stored for up to 2 days.
To make the frosting, combine the cream cheese, butter, powdered sugar, matcha powder and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat the frosting on low speed, increasing to medium speed until smooth, light and fluffy, 2–3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally.
Place the cake on a serving board or platter and use a small, offset spatula or butter knife to spread the frosting over the top and sides, making swirls as you go. The cake can sit at cool room temperature for up to 2 hours. If not serving right away, chill for up to 1 day but bring back to room temperature before serving to soften the frosting.
CHAI-SPICED NECTARINE SKILLET CAKE
{SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}
A yellow cake laced with the sweet spices commonly used in masala chai—cinnamon, ginger and cardamom—this is a simply stunning way to showcase nectarines with flavors that straddle the line between summer and fall. A blend of sweet rice, millet and oat flours creates a flavorful base with a delicate crumb that drinks up the juices of the fruit. Use flavorful nectarines that are fragrant but still firm enough to slice. Feel free to trade the nectarines for peeled peaches. The cake can also be baked in a 9-inch (23-cm) cake pan lined with a round of parchment paper.
MAKES ONE 9- TO 10-INCH (23- TO 25-CM) CAKE, 8–10 SERVINGS
SPICED SUGAR
¾ cup (165 g) organic granulated cane sugar
1½ tsp (4 g) ground cardamom
1 tsp ground ginger
¾ tsp ground cinnamon
CAKE
8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, plus 2 tsp (9 g) for greasing the pan and 2 tsp (9 g) for dotting the fruit topping, all at room temperature
Spiced sugar from above (2 tbsp [20 g] reserved for topping; see instructions)
2 large eggs, at room temperature
¾ cup (115 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (55 g) oat flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) millet flour
2 tsp (8 g) baking powder
¾ tsp fine sea salt
⅓ cup (80 ml) Crème Fraîche or sour cream
2 tsp (10 ml) vanilla extract
1 lb (450 g) ripe but firm nectarines (about
4 medium; white, yellow or a blend)
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9- or 10-inch (23- or 25-cm) ovenproof skillet with 2-inch (5-cm) sides (such as a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet) with the 2 teaspoons (9 g) softened butter. To make the spiced sugar, in a small bowl, stir together the sugar, cardamom, ginger and cinnamon. Set aside 2 tablespoons (20 g) to top the cake.
To make the cake, combine the remaining spiced sugar with the 8 tablespoons (113 g) butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl with a wooden spoon). Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally, 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.
In a medium bowl, sift together the sweet rice, oat and millet flours with the baking powder and salt. Add half of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix on low speed until just combined. Add the crème fraîche and vanilla, mix on low speed until just combined, then add the remaining flour mixture, beating on low until well combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer and give it a good stir with a rubber spatula, scraping the bottom and sides to make sure the batter is homogenous.
If the nectarines are freestones, halve them and remove their pits. Otherwise, cut the fruit off of the pit following the curve of the pit with the knife. Cut some of the nectarine pieces into enough ½-inch (1.3-cm) cubes to equal 1 cup (145 g), and slice the rest into ¼-inch (6-mm) thick wedges. Gently fold the chunks into the batter, then spread the batter evenly into the greased skillet. Fan the nectarine slices over the top of the cake, pressing them into the batter a bit. Sprinkle the reserved 2 tablespoons (20 g) spiced sugar evenly over the top, and dot the fruit with the remaining 2 teaspoons (9 g) butter.
Bake the cake until the top is golden and set, the sides are pulling away from the pan, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 45–55 minutes. Let cool completely, 1–2 hours, then use a sharp paring knife to cut the cake into wedges and remove them from the pan using a small offset spatula or cake server. The cake is best the day of baking but leftovers keep well, covered at room temperature, for up to 1 day or refrigerated airtight for up to 3 days.
VARIATI
ON: CHAI-SPICED PEAR SKILLET CAKE
Omit the nectarines and substitute 1 pound (450 g) ripe but firm pears, peeled, cored and prepared in the same manner as the nectarines, tossing the pear slices with 2 teaspoons (10 ml) lemon juice before you fan them over the top of the cake. Proceed with the recipe.
CHESTNUT PLUM FINANCIERS
{ALMOND, CHESTNUT}
These dense little cakes bursting with browned butter were the invention of a bakery near the Paris stock exchange, where they were baked to resemble small gold bricks and named for the money men of the area. Financiers are by far my favorite way to make use of extra egg whites, which I often have after making a batch of ice cream. The egg whites magically do the work of fluffing the cakes, no leavening necessary, and all that protein makes for a satisfying texture sans gluten. Financiers avail themselves to myriad flavorings, and I often change up the fruit and flours based on what’s in season. Here they soak up moisture from tart plums, and they gain dimension from earthy, sweet chestnut flour. Flour from Ladd Hill will make for mild, blond cakes (as pictured here); the darker conventional flour works equally well, but will make for more deeply colored cakes with a more pronounced flavor. If you don’t have access to chestnut flour, try these with ⅓ cup (35 g) GF oat flour in its place, or the buckwheat variation below. See “How to Brown Butter” for tips.
MAKES 10–12 INDIVIDUAL CAKES
8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, plus 1–2 tsp
(5–10 g) softened butter for greasing the pans
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
¾ cup (80 g) blanched almond flour
⅓ cup (35 g) chestnut flour
1½ tbsp (11 g) cornstarch
Alternative Baker Page 6