Alternative Baker

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Alternative Baker Page 10

by Alanna Taylor-Tobin

Gradually add the liquid by the tablespoon (15 ml),

  tossing the dough to distribute evenly.

  Fraisage by scraping portions of dough …

  … across the counter to form thin sheets.

  Alternatively, make the dough in a food processor.

  Chill the dough until cold.

  Dust with flour to prevent sticking.

  Slowly press and roll into an even round.

  Fold the dough in thirds …

  … and in thirds again for extra layers.

  Shape the crust in the pan, tucking the edges under.

  Use your thumb and forefingers …

  … to form a fluted edge.

  Pierce, chill again and bake!

  {SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

  This recipe is one and a half times the Flaky Pie Dough recipe on. I just did the math for you—you’re welcome.

  MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 BOTTOM CRUST AND A CUTOUT UPPER CRUST FOR A 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE, OR 2 PANDOWDIES

  ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) ice water

  ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) well-shaken buttermilk

  ¾ cup (110 g) sweet white rice flour

  ½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour

  ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) millet flour

  ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) cornstarch

  3 tbsp (25 g) tapioca flour

  4 tbsp (25 g) finely ground white chia seed

  1½ tbsp (20 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  ¾ tsp fine sea salt

  12 tbsp (170 g) cold, unsalted butter (preferably European style such as Straus Family Creamery), sliced ¼-inch (6-mm) thick

  Follow the directions for the Flaky Pie Dough, preferably with the fraisage and 1–2 turns.

  If making a cutout double-crust pie, divide the finished dough into one-third and two-third portions, wrap each in plastic wrap, flatten into disks and chill until firm, at least 1 hour and up to 2 days. Using the larger portion of dough, follow the instructions for shaping a bottom crust on. Use the smaller portion for the top cutout crust (see individual recipes for method).

  For pandowdies, divide the dough in half, wrap each in plastic wrap and chill.

  STRAWBERRY RASPBERRY RHUBARB CUTOUT PIE

  {SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

  Raspberries make a bright addition to the classic combination of strawberries and rhubarb. Along with a bit of lemon, the three turn out a crimson filling that is downright refreshing, studded with fat chunks of red fruit. Topping the pie with rounds of dough creates a pretty top that is far easier to execute than a lattice or double crust, and it keeps the fruit-to-crust ratio in check while allowing plenty of steam to escape from the fruit. I learned this topping method from Laura Kasavan, who writes the beautiful dessert blog Tutti Dolci.

  This well-balanced pie needs no accompaniment, though a scoop of Vanilla Bean, Cardamom or Fresh Ginger Ice Cream (here and here) is always welcome.

  MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE, ABOUT 10 SERVINGS

  CRUST

  1 recipe Pie Dough for Cutout Pies GF oat flour, for dusting

  FILLING

  2½ cups (270 g) rhubarb trimmed and sliced ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick

  2 cups (230 g) hulled and quartered strawberries

  2 cups (230 g) raspberries Finely grated zest from 1 medium-sized lemon (preferably Meyer)

  1 tbsp (15 ml) lemon juice

  ¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  ¼ cup (30 g) cornstarch

  ⅛ tsp fine sea salt

  FOR FINISHING

  1 tbsp (15 ml) milk or cream

  1 tbsp (15 g) coarse sugar (demerara or turbinado)

  For the crust, prepare and chill the pie dough as directed.

  Position a rack in the lower third of the oven, top with a baking stone if you’ve got one and preheat to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper for easy cleanup.

  Make a bottom crust with the larger round of pie dough. Chill the crust until firm, 30 minutes (or wrap and chill up to 1 day). On a surface dusted lightly with oat flour, roll out the smaller round of dough to a 9-inch (23-cm) round about ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. Use a fluted biscuit cutter (or small glass) to cut 1½- and/or 2-inch (3.8- and/or 5-cm) rounds close together. Stack the rounds on a plate and chill until firm, 20 minutes. Optionally, press the dough scraps together, wrap and chill until firm, and repeat the rolling/cutting process once more.

  To make the filling, place the prepared rhubarb, strawberries and raspberries in a large bowl and add the lemon zest and juice, sugar, cornstarch and salt. Use a flexible silicone spatula to stir gently to combine, and let sit for a few minutes to draw out the juices a bit.

  Spoon the fruit and juices into the chilled crust, smoothing it flat. Place the chilled dough rounds over the top of the fruit, overlapping them slightly and leaving lots of windows for the steam to escape. To finish, brush the rounds with the cream or milk and sprinkle with the coarse sugar.

  Place the pie on the lined baking sheet and place in the oven on the baking stone. Bake at 425°F (220°C) for 15 minutes, then decrease the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C) and continue baking until the crust is golden and the fruit is bubbling furiously, 35–50 more minutes. Let the pie cool completely to set the fruit, at least 2 hours, then cut into wedges and serve at room temperature. The pie is best shortly after baking and will keep at room temperature for up to 1 day, or refrigerated for up to 3 days.

  NOTE: When preparing rhubarb, be sure to trim away the leaves completely, as they are toxic.

  BLUEBERRY HAND PIES {VEGAN}

  {SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

  It’s hard to go wrong with fresh blueberries. Here, they’re given minimal sweetening, tossed with lemon and nutmeg, and tucked into flaky coconut-oil dough. The clean taste of coconut lets the deep purple berries star, baking into tender little nubs within crust that shatters and flakes. These not-too-sweet treats work equally well for breakfast with a cup of tea or to travel on a picnic. If you want them a bit sweeter, give them a drizzle of vanilla bean glaze and they will remind you of really classy Pop-Tarts.

  Placing the rounds of dough on individual pieces of parchment paper helps shape the hand pies, so be sure to have some handy when making this recipe. Fresh berries work better here, as frozen ones will cause the dough to harden, making it crack as you fold it around the filling.

  MAKES 6 INDIVIDUAL HAND PIES

  CRUST

  1 recipe Coconut Oil Pie Dough, prepared with the fraisage and 1–2 turns, chilled GF oat flour, for dusting

  FILLING

  1½ cups (190 g) blueberries (preferably fresh, otherwise frozen and not defrosted)

  3 tbsp (40 g) organic granulated cane sugar Finely grated zest from 1 small lemon

  2 tsp (10 ml) lemon juice

  1 tsp cornstarch

  ¼ tsp fine sea salt

  ⅛ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

  FOR FINISHING

  1–2 tbsp (30 ml) plant milk, for brushing the dough

  Organic granulated cane sugar, for sprinkling

  For the crust, prepare and chill the pie dough as directed.

  To make the filling, in a medium bowl, toss together the blueberries, sugar, lemon zest and juice, cornstarch, salt and nutmeg to combine. Set aside.

  Divide the dough into 6 equal portions, letting it stand at cool room temperature for 5–10 minutes to soften slightly. On a surface dusted lightly with oat flour (or between 2 squares of parchment paper dusted with oat flour), roll each portion of dough out into a 5- to 6-inch (13- to 15-cm) round about ¼-inch (6-mm) thick, turning the dough and dusting with more oat flour to prevent sticking. Trim each round to make an even circle (a pizza wheel works well here), and place on a 6-inch (15-cm) square of parchment. If the rounds have become soft or sticky, chill them for about 10 minutes (this will depend on the temperature of your kitchen).

  Lay the dough rounds, still on their pieces of parchment, on your work surface. Divide the blueberries among the rounds, mounding them toward the center and a little off to on
e side. Use the parchment to help fold the dough over itself, making a half-moon shape. If the dough cracks, use your fingers to squish it back together. Repeat with the remaining pies. Use the tines of a fork to crimp the edges closed and seal the pies, and trim away excess dough from the edges. Lay the pies on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper and chill until firm, 20 minutes.

  Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C).

  To finish, remove the pies from the refrigerator, brush with the milk and sprinkle with the sugar. Use the tip of a paring knife to cut a few slits in the top of each pie to allow the steam to escape.

  Bake the pies until the dough is golden and the fruit is bubbling, 22–30 minutes. Remove from the oven, and, while hot, use a thin metal spatula to remove the pies from their parchment and onto a cooling rack (otherwise, the caramelized juices will cause them to stick). Let cool to warm, then enjoy warm or at room temperature. They are best the day of baking when the crust is crisp, but will keep for up to 2 days airtight at room temperature.

  GINGER PEACH CUTOUT PIE

  {SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

  Peach pie always seems like a big production. There are hundreds of different recipes out there and everyone’s got an opinion on flavorings, thickeners, lattice vs. double crusts, white vs. yellow peaches, to peel or not to peel … and that doesn’t even touch on the hotly debated topic of shortening vs. butter in the crust. It really needn’t be so difficult. I threw this one together with an extra batch of pie dough left over from another project, some white and yellow peaches that were cluttering my counter, and a smattering of crystallized ginger hiding in my cupboard. The whole project was simply satisfying. Bring this to a party and watch them treat you like the domestic god or goddess you are.

  Half a cup of ginger will thrill true ginger fiends like myself; take it down to ¼ or ⅓ cup (40 or 60 g) if you prefer just a hint. Use whatever shade of peach (or nectarine) you have on hand. I find no need to peel most peaches; just give them a rinse and rub off some of the fuzz with a clean kitchen towel. Cornstarch is my thickener of choice, as it leaves behind not a trace of flavor or texture, and I’ll give another shout-out to the cutout top crust, which is both stupid easy to make and oh so pretty to look at. Serve slices of this pie with any of the ice creams here and here, or with a plume of softly Whipped Cream or Whipped Crème Fraîche.

  MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE, ABOUT 10 SERVINGS

  CRUST

  1 recipe Pie Dough for Cutout Pies GF oat flour, for dusting

  FILLING

  6–7 medium peaches (2¼ lb [1 kg]), ripe but firm (about 6½ cups [900 g], sliced)

  Finely grated zest from 1 medium lemon

  1 tbsp (15 ml) lemon juice

  ¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  3 tbsp (17 g) cornstarch

  ⅛ tsp fine sea salt

  ⅓–½ cup (60–90 g) finely chopped crystallized ginger

  FOR FINISHING

  1 tbsp (15 ml) milk or cream

  1 tbsp (15 g) coarse sugar (demerara or turbinado)

  For the crust, prepare and chill the pie dough as directed.

  Position a rack in the lower third of the oven, top with a baking stone if you’ve got one and preheat to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper for easy cleanup.

  Make a bottom crust with the larger round of pie dough. Chill the crust until firm, 30 minutes (or wrap and chill for up to 1 day). On a surface dusted lightly with oat flour, roll out the smaller round of dough to a 9-inch (23-cm) round about ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. Use a fluted biscuit cutter (or small glass) to cut 1½- and/or 2-inch (3.8- and/or 5-cm) rounds close together. Stack the rounds on a plate and chill until firm, 20 minutes. Optionally, press the dough scraps together, wrap and chill until firm, and repeat the rolling/cutting process once more.

  To make the filling, halve the peaches and remove the pits, then cut each half into 8 wedges; you should have about 6½ cups (900 g). Place the peaches in a large bowl and add the lemon zest and juice, sugar, cornstarch, salt and ginger. Toss gently to combine and let sit for a few minutes to draw out the juices a bit.

  Spoon the fruit and juices into the chilled crust, smoothing it flat. Place the chilled dough rounds over the top of the fruit, leaving lots of windows for steam to escape. To finish, brush the rounds with the milk and sprinkle with the coarse sugar.

  Place the pie on the lined baking sheet and place in the oven on the baking stone. Bake at 425°F (220°C) for 15 minutes, then decrease the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C) and continue baking until the crust is golden and the fruit is bubbling furiously, 35–50 more minutes. Let the pie cool completely to set the fruit, at least 2 hours, then cut into wedges and serve at room temperature. The pie is best the day of baking and will keep at room temperature for up to 1 day or refrigerated for up to 3 days.

  RUSTIC PLUM, TEFF AND HAZELNUT TART

  {SWEET RICE, OAT, TEFF}

  Plums’ high water content makes them a challenge in the kitchen. Here, a hazelnut frangipane absorbs some of their liquid, puffing up around the slices and melding with a flaky teff flour pastry. The malty flavor of the teff pairs well with the toasted hazelnuts and tart, juicy plums, all drizzled with a touch of floral honey. The sugared edges become wildly crisp in the oven and make an addictive contrast to the tender middles. Do be sure to use parchment paper for rolling out the dough; it’s difficult to transfer the large piece of dough onto the baking sheet without it. And give the tart a thorough bake on the lowest oven rack, letting the frangipane turn a deep golden all over; otherwise, the bottom crust will be soggy from those pesky plums.

  MAKES 1 LARGE FREE-FORM TART, 12–15 SERVINGS

  CRUST

  1 recipe Teff Pie Dough, chilled Teff flour, for dusting

  FRANGIPANE AND PLUMS

  1 cup (120 g) raw hazelnuts

  ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  ¼ cup (40 g) sweet white rice flour

  ¼ tsp fine sea salt

  6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter, softened but cool

  1 large egg

  1 tsp vanilla extract

  1 lb (450 g) ripe but firm plums (about

  7 medium)

  FOR FINISHING

  1 tbsp (15 ml) milk or heavy cream, for brushing the dough

  2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar, for sprinkling

  2–4 tbsp (30–60 ml) honey, for drizzling

  For the crust, make the dough, completing the fraisage and all the optional folds; this will make puff pastry–like layers. Chill the dough until cold as instructed.

  To make the frangipane, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Spread the hazelnuts on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast until the skins are loose, 10–12 minutes. Let cool completely, then rub off as much of the skins as you easily can. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the hazelnuts, sugar, rice flour and salt. Process until the nuts are very finely ground, 30–60 seconds. Add the softened butter, egg and vanilla extract and process to a paste, 30 seconds. Don’t overprocess or the mixture could break and become greasy and separated.

  Let the dough stand at room temperature until slightly softened, 5 minutes in a warm kitchen or 15 minutes in a cool kitchen. Sandwich the dough between 2 large pieces of parchment paper dusted lightly with teff flour, and gently begin pressing it flat, then roll it into a 12 by 16–inch (30 by 40–cm) rectangle. As you work, periodically peel back the top piece of parchment, dust the dough lightly with flour, replace the parchment, grasp the dough sandwich with both hands and flip the whole thing over. Peel off the new top piece of parchment, dust with flour and continue to roll. If the dough is uneven, cut off the long bits and press them onto the short bits, rolling to adhere. When your rectangle measures 12 by 16 inches (30 by 40 cm), trim the sides so that they’re even and straight. If your dough becomes soft or sticky at any point, slip it onto a baking sheet, parchment and all, and c
hill it for 10–20 minutes to firm the butter.

  Slide the dough onto a sheet pan, still on the parchment. Use a small offset spatula to gently spread the hazelnut paste over the dough in an even layer, leaving a 1-inch (2.5-cm) border all the way around. Gently fold over the edges to make a generous 1-inch (2.5-cm) crust. Chill the dough until firm, 30 minutes.

  Prepare the plums. If they cling to the pit, cut the flesh off the pit in large pieces; otherwise, cut the plums into quarters and discard the pits. Slice the plums thinly, discarding the ends that are mostly skin. Keeping the plum slices together, fan them atop the chilled frangipane in 12–15 clumps; this makes the finished tart easier to cut. You may not need all of the plums, and it’s better to err on the side of too little, as excess fruit will lead to a soggy crust. To finish, brush the edges of the tart with the milk. Sprinkle the sugar all over the plums and crust.

  Bake the tart until the hazelnut paste is puffed and deeply bronzed and the bottom of the tart is crisp, 40–50 minutes, rotating the tart toward the end of the baking time. The crust will look dark because of the teff flour, but take care not to underbake it or the bottom will be soggy. Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 30 minutes and up to several hours. Just before serving, drizzle all over with the honey and cut into 12–15 rectangles.

  FIG AND CHÈVRE BITES WITH HONEY AND THYME

  {SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

  When I traveled to France’s très romantique Loire Valley many years ago, I hoped to meet the man of my dreams. Instead, I met the cheese of my dreams: a log of goat cheese rolled in ash and aged until it formed a creamy, Brie-like exterior and dense, crumbly middle. I gladly eschewed dessert in favor of the cheese carts wheeled to the postprandial table. These little bites of flaky pastry topped with aged goat cheese, fresh figs and a sprinkle of honey, thyme and black pepper bring the cheese course into dessert—though they work equally well as a starter when accompanied by a glass of bubbly and will make you the star of any potluck. A bite of flaky crust against funky cheese, gooey fig and fresh thyme tastes like love. These are best served warm from the oven, but the dough rounds can be prepared, topped and chilled until serving time, up to one day ahead. That said, we brought cold, two-day-old leftovers to a party and they disappeared in seconds.

 

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