If your pie crust has cooled, return it to the oven for about 5 minutes to get it hot, patching any holes with leftover dough if necessary. Pour the filling into the hot crust and carefully transfer to the oven.
Bake the pie until mostly set with a slight, Jell-O-like wobble, 40–50 minutes. It will be puffed all over, and will barely wiggle when you give it a shake. Cool the pie completely, about 2 hours. The pie can be served at room temperature, where it will keep for up to 4 hours, or chilled, which will yield cleaner slices.
The pie is best the day of baking, when the crust is crisp, but extras will keep airtight in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
NOTE: Since the custardy filling leaks easily here, be sure to save scraps of pie dough for patching any tiny holes in the parbaked crust. Be sure to use fresh, well-shaken buttermilk in the filling; older buttermilk can become thin and watery, leading to a broken filling. While the pie bakes, watch the oven temperature like a hawk (preferably with an oven thermometer or two); most ovens don’t run true to temperature and a too-hot oven can cause the filling to crack and become grainy.
TARTS
I used to loathe baking tarts. Butter was softened only to be mixed into dough and chilled again. The delicate dough was rolled out, fitted into the pan and chilled again. Pie weights were needed to keep the dough aloft, which often slumped and squished down into the pan despite my best efforts. I finally discovered the secret to positive tart experiences in a lemon bar recipe that called for a shortbread-like dough that was simply pressed into the pan. I mixed up the dough, pressed it into a tart pan, and baked it sans pie weights, and voilà—easy-peasy perfect tart crust. I’ve tweaked the recipe many times over the years, and I’ve ditched the wheat flour and added almond, sweet rice and oat flours (plus some alternative variations). I use my stand mixer to work in the cold butter, which gets pressed into the pan straight away. After a quick freeze, into the oven it goes, staying resolutely upright, no weights necessary.
Almond and oat flours make an earthy base for both butterscotchy brown butter crème fraîche custard and peaches, as well as a floral grapefruit custard tart laced with elderflower liqueur. A deep, dark cocoa crust houses a naturally sweetened pecan pie filling bursting with fresh cranberries. Mesquite flour and brown sugar make a wildly flavorful shell for creamy pudding, bananas and salty caramel. Chestnut flour enhances a classic apple tart. And a vegan coconut flour crust adds crunch to Hawaiian-inspired coconut custard and fresh berries.
The tart recipes in this book are some of my favorites, and I hope they become as not-loathed in your kitchen as they have in mine.
NOTE: All tarts in this section should work interchangeably in tart pans of the following dimensions: one 9-inch (23-cm) round tart crust, one 12 by 4-inch (30 by 10-cm) rectangular tart crust or eight 4-inch (10-cm) round tartlet crusts. Adjust the baking time as needed.
VANILLA ALMOND TART CRUST
Work cold butter into the flour mixture to form a crumbly, clumpy dough.
Press the edges into the pan first,
then press the bottom into the pan to form an even layer.
Freeze, then parbake until golden.
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
At a patisserie where I once worked, the owner was so committed to using 100 percent organic ingredients that, because blanched almonds weren’t available organic, some days were spent blanching the nuts for hours at a time. I didn’t mind the task, standing in place and slipping the loose skins off of nuts that had been briefly boiled. But what I did mind was that the majority of the almonds were ground into tart dough. As my preferred glutinous tart dough contains just butter, flour, sugar and salt, the addition of these precious almonds seemed superfluous.
I changed my mind when it came time to make a gluten-free sweet tart dough. Here the almond flour is the magic ingredient that helps the dough hold together with no gums and a minimum of starches. The tiny nubbles of almond give the dough the sandy consistency of fine shortbread, oat flour adds earthy flavor and judicious amounts of sugar and salt bring the taste into balance. Cold butter gets rubbed into the dough with the help of a stand mixer, and the crumbly dough gets pressed right into the pan, no chilling or rolling necessary. As an added bonus, after a brief stint in the freezer, the dough gets baked as is, no pastry weights needed to hold the dough up the sides of the pan. Don’t forget to press the sides and bottom of the hot crust with the back of a spoon, otherwise the delicate crust will be difficult to slice (though still delicious).
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) ROUND TART CRUST, ONE 12 BY 4–INCH (30 BY 10–CM) RECTANGULAR TART CRUST OR EIGHT 4-INCH (10-CM) ROUND TARTLET CRUSTS
½ cup (60 g) blanched almond flour (such as Bob’s Red Mill)
½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour
2 tbsp (12 g) tapioca flour
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ plus ⅛ tsp fine sea salt
6 tbsp (85 g) cold, unsalted butter, diced into
½-inch (1.3-cm) cubes
1 tsp vanilla extract
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C).
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the almond, sweet rice and oat flours with the tapioca starch, sugar and salt. Scatter the butter pieces over the top and drizzle with the vanilla extract. Turn the mixer to medium-low and run until the dough comes together in clumps and the butter is worked through, 3–5 minutes.
Dump the crumbs into the desired tart pan(s) with removable bottom(s) and press the dough evenly into the pan, starting with the sides and then moving to the bottom, keeping the edges square. (It usually takes me about 10 minutes to make it look pretty.) Prick the bottom of the crust all over with the tines of a fork and freeze until firm, 15–30 minutes.
Place the tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until pale golden and firm to the touch (18–22 minutes) for a parbaked crust, or until golden all over (5–10 minutes longer) for a fully baked crust. (If making tartlets, decrease the overall baking time by 5–10 minutes.) Remove the crust from the oven and, while it’s still hot, press the sides and bottom with the back of a spoon. This will help it hold together when cool.
VARIATIONS
COCOA ALMOND
Use ½ cup (45 g) cocoa powder (preferably Dutch-process) in place of the oat flour and decrease the butter to 5 tablespoons (70 g). Since the dough is dark, it can be difficult to tell when the crust is done, so do set a timer and look closely for edges that are beginning to darken and pull away from the sides of the pan. If the chocolate begins to smell at all burnt, remove the crust immediately.
MUSCOVADO MESQUITE
Use ½ cup (60 g) mesquite flour (sifted after measuring to eradicate lumps) in place of the oat flour and ¼ cup (50 g) muscovado (or packed organic light or dark brown) sugar in place of the granulated sugar. Bake this variation at 350°F (175°C) since mesquite flour is more sensitive to temperature than other flours.
CHESTNUT
Use ½ cup (50 g) chestnut flour in place of the oat flour.
See here for a vegan variation made with coconut oil.
A COUPLE OF KEY TECHNIQUES MAKE THIS TART CRUST SHINE
• Use a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment to rub cold butter into the dough. A food processor smooths out the almond flour too much and it loses its delicate texture. It takes a good 3–5 minutes for this to happen. Alternatively, use your fingertips to rub the butter into the dough.
• Take the time to press the dough evenly into the pan, starting with the sides and then moving to the bottom, keeping the edges square. In a 9-inch (23-cm) round pan, the dough will be about ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. You can use a flat-bottomed glass to press the bottom of the dough smooth.
• When the dough has finished baking and is still hot, use the back of a spoon to gently but firmly press the bottom and sides of the crust. This will help it hold together better.
COCONUT
CREAM AND RASPBERRY TART {VEGAN}
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, COCONUT}
This tart gets a triple dose of coconut: coconut flour and oil in the crust and coconut milk in the filling. Fresh raspberries perch atop a vanilla-flecked coconut milk custard, all nestled into a coconut flour crust that tastes like a cross between a macaroon and shortbread. A smear of chocolate keeps the crust crisp and pairs well with both the coconut and the berries. The whole thing is so satisfying in taste and texture that no one will ever suspect it of being both vegan and gluten-free. This crust is similar in method to the Vanilla Almond Tart Crust but with a few differences. A bit of water is necessary to help the dough stick together when baked; without, it crumbles into oblivion. Also, a light coating of cooking spray or oil is needed to prevent the stickier dough from adhering to the pan. Feel free to use this crust for any of the tarts in this book. And if you can’t find fresh raspberries, top the tart with sliced strawberries, other summer berries, or Honey Candied Kumquats instead.
MAKES ONE 12 BY 4–INCH (30 BY 10-CM) RECTANGULAR TART OR ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) ROUND TART, 8–10 SERVINGS
CRUST
Vegetable oil spray or 1 tsp melted coconut oil, for the pan
½ cup (60 g) blanched almond flour
⅓ cup (50 g) sweet white rice flour
⅓ cup (40 g) coconut flour
¼ cup (45 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ plus ⅛ tsp fine sea salt
7 tbsp (80 g) coconut oil (at cool room temperature or lightly chilled)
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 tbsp (30 ml) cold water
2 oz (55 g) bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about ⅓ cup)
FILLING
1 (13.5-oz [400-ml]) can full-fat coconut milk
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
3 tbsp (35 g) organic granulated cane sugar
3 tbsp (18 g) cornstarch Pinch of fine sea salt
2 pints (340 g) fresh raspberries, or enough to cover the top of the tart in a single layer
To make the crust, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Lightly spray a 12 by 4–inch (30 by 10–cm) rectangular tart pan or a 9-inch (23-cm) round tart pan with a removable bottom with cooking spray or brush it with a teaspoon of melted coconut oil.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the almond, sweet rice and coconut flours with the sugar and salt. Scatter the coconut oil in clumps over the top and drizzle with the vanilla extract. Beat on medium-low speed until the coconut oil is evenly incorporated and the dough looks clumpy, 2–3 minutes. With the mixer running, slowly drizzle in the cold water, mixing until the dough comes together in large clumps. Dump the crumbly dough into the prepared tart pan and press the dough evenly into the pan, starting with the sides and then moving to the bottom, keeping the edges square. Prick the bottom of the crust all over with the tines of a fork and freeze until firm, 15–30 minutes.
Place the tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden all over, 20–25 minutes. Remove the crust from the oven and, while it’s still hot, scatter the chopped chocolate over the bottom of the crust. Let the chocolate melt, 1 minute, then use the back of a small spoon to spread the melted chocolate over the bottom and up the sides of the crust. Let cool to room temperature, then chill until the chocolate is set, 10–20 minutes.
To make the filling, combine the coconut milk and vanilla pod and scrapings in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the milk is hot and steamy (don’t let it boil or it may scorch or separate). Remove from the heat, cover and let steep for 10 minutes or up to 1 hour to infuse with the vanilla.
Meanwhile, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch and salt in a small bowl. When the coconut milk has steeped, whisk a few tablespoons of the coconut milk into the cornstarch mixture to make a slurry, then whisk the slurry into the warm coconut milk. Cook the pudding over medium heat, whisking constantly and making sure to scrape the bottom and corners of the pot, until it comes to a low boil. Still stirring, boil for 1–2 minutes; it should be the texture of yogurt. Immediately strain the pudding through a mesh sieve and into a heatproof measuring pitcher. Pour the hot coconut cream into the chocolate-lined tart shell, spreading it evenly and taking care not to disturb the melty chocolate. Chill until set, 2 hours.
When ready to serve, release the sides from the pan by pushing the tart bottom upward, and slide the tart onto a large cutting board. Top the tart with the raspberries. Cut into pieces and serve.
PEACH BROWN BUTTER CRÈME FRAÎCHE TART
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
My sweetie and I were once taken to a ritzy San Francisco restaurant where one prix-fixe meal costs more than we spend on groceries in a month. Expecting an evening full of cozy decadence, we were disappointed when the first dish brought to us was a bowl of torn fish stomach served on a gelée made from the unfortunate fish’s own juices and topped with its roe. After a dozen courses, each making us squirm more than the last, we staggered home, pondering whether foodies are so jaded, so weary of pork belly and truffles and hand-rolled pasta, that they need to be served fish innards for a gustatory thrill.
This tart is pretty much the opposite. It’s as comfy as a slice of peach pie topped with vanilla ice cream, only reconfigured and fancied up a bit. A cookie-like crust crumbles against tangy, butterscotch-flavored custard that envelops tender peaches. Eating a slice warm from the oven is a little like slipping on a pair of sweats after sitting in a fancy restaurant for five hours in a tight dress eating fish innards. But nice sweats. Designer yoga pants, say. This tart is a crowd-pleaser, but with enough little twists to hold the interest of even the most jaded foodie.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8–10 SERVINGS
CRUST
One 9-inch (23-cm) Vanilla Almond Tart Crust, parbaked
FILLING
6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
1 lb (450 g) ripe but firm peaches (3–4 medium)
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 1 tbsp (10 g) for sprinkling
2 tbsp (17 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ tsp fine sea salt
1 large egg
½ cup (120 ml) Crème Fraîche or sour cream
Powdered sugar (optional, for dusting)
For the crust, prepare and parbake the crust as directed.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Place the parbaked tart crust on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper for easy cleanup.
To make the filling, place the butter and vanilla pod and scrapings in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, swirling occasionally. After about 3–5 minutes, the butter will foam up, turn golden and smell nutty, with brown flecks mingling with black vanilla bean seeds on the bottom of the pan. At this point, remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter into a heatproof measuring cup to stop the cooking, and let cool for 5 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and discard.
Meanwhile, halve the peaches and remove the pits. Cut each half into 6 wedges; you should have about 3 cups of sliced peaches.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the ¼ cup (50 g) sugar, rice flour and salt. Whisk in the egg until smooth, then the crème fraîche. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in the browned butter. Pour the custard into the crust. Arrange the peach wedges over the custard in concentric circles and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon (10 g) sugar.
Bake the tart until the custard is gently puffed and pale golden around the edges, and mostly set when you give the pan a shuffle, 30–40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely, at least 1 hour and up to several hours. Remove the sides of the tart pan by placing it on a large can or small inverted bowl and gently loosening. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired. Place the tart on a cutting board, cut into wedges and serve. The tart is best within the first 2 days of baking when t
he crust is crisp, but it will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.
NOTE: If you’re new to browning butter, see how it’s done on.
CARAMELIZED FIG AND WHIPPED HONEY YOGURT TARTLETS
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
These tarts carry the Mediterranean flavors of almond, orange blossom, honey and fresh figs. Dusting the figs with sugar and torching the tops mellows their bite just a bit, adds a touch of smoky sweetness and brings the tart components together into one luscious late-summer dessert. Buttery tart shells contrast cool and tangy whipped yogurt kissed with honey and orange blossom water, all nestled up against juicy figs. These must be assembled to order, lest the crust and burnt sugar soften prematurely, but guests will love watching the sugar sizzle as you torch the fruit.
MAKES EIGHT 4-INCH (10-CM) INDIVIDUAL TARTLETS OR ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8–10 SERVINGS
CRUST
8 (4-inch [10-cm]) fully baked Vanilla Almond Tartlet Crusts, cooled
FILLING
¾ cup (180 g) plain whole-milk Greek yogurt (such as Straus Family Creamery) or skyr (such as Siggi’s)
¾ cup (180 ml) heavy cream
3 tbsp (45 ml) honey
¾ tsp orange blossom water, or more to taste (optional)
16 medium-small ripe but firm figs (about
1 lb [450 g])
8 tsp (32 g) organic granulated cane sugar (for caramelizing the figs)
For the crust, prepare and bake the tartlet shells as directed. When cool, remove the tart crusts from their pans and place on a large cutting board.
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