Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Place six 4-ounce (112-ml) ovenproof ramekins or canning jars on a rimmed baking sheet.
To make the filling, in a large bowl, toss the blackberries with the brown sugar, cornstarch, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt until well combined. Divide the fruit among the ramekins. Bake until bubbling, 20–25 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the crumble. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the buckwheat, sweet rice and tapioca flours with the oats, brown sugar, cinnamon, salt and butter. Beat on medium-low speed until the mixture forms large, moist clumps, about 3 minutes. (Alternatively, combine the ingredients in a large bowl and rub the butter in with your fingertips.)
When the fruit has baked, crumble the topping over, squeezing some into roughly hazelnut-sized chunks and leaving the rest loose—don’t pack it down. Bake the crisps until the topping is golden and the fruit is bubbling furiously, 20–30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 10 minutes. Serve the crisps warm or at room temperature, topped with ice cream if desired.
The crisps are best when freshly baked, but extras will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.
APPLE CRANBERRY POMEGRANATE CRISPS WITH BROWN SUGAR TEFF STREUSEL
{TEFF, SWEET RICE, OATS}
Crisps and tiny canning jars are a match made in heaven, particularly where dinner parties and potlucks are concerned. They’re easy to store and reheat, and having an individual portion just for you always feels a little bit special. Here, apples, cranberries and pomegranate arils form a sweet-tart base for crumbly streusel redolent with the flavors of earthy teff flour, molasses and a whiff of cinnamon. Roasting the fruit in the jars until bubbling lets the apples cook through, releasing steam in order to keep the topping crisp. The pomegranates add a bit of pop and, along with the berries, turn the filling a vibrant crimson. Teff flour forms the base for a delicate, richly flavored topping bound together with sweet rice and tapioca flours, and rolled oats add heft. Top with a scoop of ice cream and you’ll have yourself a cozy dessert, though these are equally good with a bit of plain yogurt for breakfast.
You’ll need 6–8 small 4-ounce (112-ml) canning jars to make these dainty servings, or you can make 4 larger servings in 8-ounce (224-ml) jars or ramekins. To feed a crowd, double the filling and streusel and bake in a 10-inch (25-cm) ovenproof skillet or 9-inch (23-cm) square pan, increasing the fruit baking time to 40–50 minutes, giving the fruit a stir, then adding the topping and baking for 20–25 more minutes.
MAKES 6–8 DAINTY SERVINGS
FILLING
1 lb (450 g) tart baking apples, such as Granny Smith (about 3 large)
½ cup (55 g) coarsely chopped fresh or frozen cranberries
½ cup (65 g) fresh or frozen pomegranate arils
2 tbsp (30 g) organic granulated cane sugar
1 tbsp (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 tsp cornstarch
STREUSEL
¼ cup (35 g) teff flour
2 tbsp (15 g) sweet white rice flour
1 tbsp (6 g) tapioca flour
½ cup (50 g) GF old-fashioned rolled oats
¼ cup (50 g) packed organic dark brown sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
4 tbsp (56 g) cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, for serving
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C).
To make the filling, peel the apples, cut the flesh off the core and cut into ½-inch (1.3-cm) chunks. You should have about 3 cups.
In a large bowl, toss together the apple chunks, chopped cranberries, pomegranate arils, sugar, lemon juice and cornstarch until evenly combined. Pack the mixture into 6–8 small 4-ounce (112-ml) heatproof jars (such as canning jars), filling the jars to the top. Use your hands to really pack the fruit down; it will reduce as it cooks.
Place the jars on a rimmed baking sheet and cover loosely with a piece of foil. Bake until the fruit is bubbling vigorously, 25–35 minutes. Remove from the oven and uncover.
To make the streusel, in a medium-sized bowl, stir together the teff, sweet rice and tapioca flours with the oats, brown sugar, salt and cinnamon. Add the butter pieces and rub them into the flour mixture with your fingertips until the butter is blended in and the mixture forms large clumps. (You can also do this in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.)
When the fruit has cooked, divide the streusel evenly among the ramekins, pinching some of it into chunks the size of hazelnuts and leaving the rest loose—don’t pack it down. Bake the crisps until the streusel is golden, 18–22 more minutes.
Let the crisps cool slightly, then serve warm topped with scoops of vanilla ice cream. They are best shortly after baking when the streusel is crisp, but will keep at room temperature for up to a day, or chilled for up to 3 days. Reheat in a 350°F (175°C) oven before serving.
GINGERED PERSIMMON AND CRANBERRY PANDOWDY
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
Fuyu persimmons are one of my favorite fruits. They’re mild and sweet, with a buttery-crisp texture that you can eat like an apple. The first Fuyus to come into the market each fall tend to be bland and underripe. After a couple of weeks, though, they begin to turn a deep orange and, when ripened until crisp-tender, they’re juicy and full of flavor. I usually eat at least one a day for the whole of fall, until they peter out in January. We toss them into salads, bake them into desserts and sprinkle them over yogurt and granola for breakfasts. Here, wedges of mild Fuyus complement tangy, astringent cranberries, whose strong personality they help to mellow, all laced with a bit of ginger and lemon zest for zip and lidded with cutouts of flaky pie dough. Scoop this into bowls and serve warm with vanilla or ginger ice cream for a dessert worthy of any fall festivity. Look for Fuyus that are bright orange and feel heavy for their size, and let them ripen at room temperature until they have just a hint of give, usually a few days in cool weather.
MAKES 6–8 SERVINGS
TOPPING
GF oat flour, for dusting
½ recipe Pie Dough for Pandowdies
1 tbsp (15 ml) milk or cream, for brushing the dough
1 tbsp (10 g) coarse sugar (turbinado or demerara)
FILLING
5 large or 7–8 smaller Fuyu persimmons (800 g [5 cups] sliced)
1 cup (100 g) fresh or frozen cranberries (halved if large)
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) organic granulated cane sugar
Finely grated zest from 1 small or ½ large lemon
2 tbsp (30 ml) lemon juice
2 tbsp (25 g) lightly packed finely chopped crystallized ginger
⅛ tsp fine sea salt
1 tbsp (8 g) cornstarch
Vanilla Bean or Fresh Ginger Ice Cream (here and here), for serving
To make the topping, on a surface dusted lightly with oat flour, roll out the dough into a round roughly ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. Cut into 2-inch (5-cm) squares (or use a 2-inch [5-cm] fluted biscuit cutter to cut out rounds of dough, placed close together). Stack the dough pieces on a plate and chill until cold.
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C).
To make the filling, cut the tops off the persimmons, cut each one in half, and cut each half into 6–8 wedges, removing the seeds if there are any. You should have about 5 cups. In a large bowl, toss together the persimmon wedges, cranberries, sugar, lemon zest and juice, candied ginger, salt and cornstarch until well combined. Scrape the mixture into a 10-inch (25-cm) skillet or ceramic tart pan, a 9-inch (23-cm) deep-dish pie pan or a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking dish. Lay the chilled squares of dough over the fruit, overlapping them slightly and leaving some gaps for steam to escape. Brush the dough with the cream and sprinkle with the coarse sugar. Place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips.
Bake the pandowdy until the crust is golden and the fruit is bubbli
ng, 45–55 minutes. Let cool for at least 10 minutes. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream. The pandowdy is best freshly baked when the crust is crisp. It will keep for up to 1 day at room temperature, or up to 3 days refrigerated airtight. Reheat in a 375°F (190°C) oven before serving.
VARIATIONS
GINGERED PEAR AND CRANBERRY PANDOWDY
When persimmons are nowhere to be found, trade them out for an equal amount of ripe but firm pears, peeled, cored, and cut into wedges.
APPLE, PEAR AND QUINCE PANDOWDY
Omit the persimmons, cranberries and ginger, and make the filling with 2–3 large, firm-ripe pears (300 g), 2 large tart baking apples (300 g), and 4 halves poached quinces (300 g, all peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick wedges (6 cups prepared fruit). Add ½ teaspoon ground cardamom (or cinnamon) to the filling.
CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS AND SPOON DESSERTS
I’ve always had a penchant for cool, creamy sweets, whether it was cracking the lid on a crème brûlée, savoring a pot of yogurt or devouring a cup of ice cream. Spoonable desserts are as much about texture as they are flavor. Here, alternative grains and flours add their unique qualities to custardy desserts while maintaining the delicate consistencies that we crave.
Tres leches cake made with coconut flour turns light and delicate with an open crumb that soaks in coconut cream spiked with rum and covered in ripe chunks of mango. Clafoutis made with almond, rice and oat flours is especially delicate. Ice cream and roasted berries find an earthy home layered with chestnut brownies, and teff flour adds malty richness to a baked chocolate mousse of sorts studded with bourbon-soaked cherries. Mesquite flour adds a warm, wild flavor to gingersnaps that form a base for banana pudding, cheesecake and ice cream sandwiches. Dive into a trifle loaded with citrus layered over Lillet-soaked chiffon cake and sabayon—it’s like an edible ray of sunshine in the depths of winter.
CHESTNUT BROWNIE ICE CREAM SUNDAES WITH PORT-ROASTED STRAWBERRIES
{CHESTNUT}
The first red strawberries of the season, which show up in late February or early March in Northern California, always bring much excitement after an (admittedly short) winter of brown and orange foods. But what the berries have in color they often lack in sweetness and flavor. In a technique I learned in the pastry kitchen of San Francisco’s Farallon restaurant, roasting these subpar berries with sugar draws out their jammy flavor and makes them meltingly tender. Though if you make this with ripe strawberries at the peak of their season, the compote will be extra delicious. A splash of ruby port gives an extra boost of color, adding a bit of gravitas to the sweet compote.
Roasted berries keep well for up to a week or two, so feel free to double or triple the recipe as you see fit. The cooled berries can be used anywhere you would a chunky compote, i.e., spooned over crackers topped with goat cheese, enjoyed with yogurt and granola for breakfast or, my favorite, layered with ice cream and Chestnut Brownies for a grown-up sundae. The warmth of the chestnut flour plays well with the inky port in the berries, all softened with mild vanilla ice cream. If you don’t have ice cream on hand, try this layered with Whipped Crème Fraîche for brownie berry trifles.
MAKES 2–3 SUNDAES
ROASTED STRAWBERRIES
1 pint (225 g) strawberries, hulled and halved
1 tbsp (12 g) organic granulated cane sugar
3 tbsp (45 ml) ruby port (more as needed)
SUNDAES
3–4 Chestnut Brownies, crumbled or cut into chunks
4–6 scoops Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, slightly softened (or use store-bought)
To make the roasted strawberries, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). Spread the prepared berries on a small, rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle with the sugar and port. Roast the berries until collapsed and surrounded by a thick syrup, 35–50 minutes, gently flipping the berries over toward the end of the baking time and adding more port if the berries look dry. While still warm, scrape the berries and their syrup into a heatproof jar or container. Use warm or let cool to room temperature and chill. The berries will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to a week or two.
To make the sundaes, place a layer of brownie crumbles or chunks in a glass. Top with a scoop of ice cream and a spoonful of berries. Repeat with 1–2 more layers and serve immediately.
APRICOT CLAFOUTIS WITH HONEY AND CARDAMOM
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
I didn’t fully appreciate apricots until one spring day many years ago, when Jay’s mom inherited property that came with an apricot tree. The small, heirloom-variety fruits were nothing like the underripe, pale, watery specimens found in grocery stores, and the tree was heavy with blushing fruit no bigger than a walnut in its shell. Breaking one open, still warm from the sun and bursting with flavor, I fell instantly in love with apricots.
Sadly for my taste buds, the tree was not long for this world and met its maker the following year. But now I know to look out for the dainty heirloom apricots that crowd the markets each June. Here I pair them with honey and cardamom in a baked custard laced with vanilla that lets the apricots star. Apricots are unique in that they become more tart as they bake, so be sure to use the sweetest, ripest ones you can find. If you don’t have apricots on hand, give this a try with sliced peaches or brandy-soaked cherries in their place.
MAKES 6–8 SERVINGS
3 tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter, plus 1 tsp softened butter for greasing the pan
3 tbsp (45 ml) honey, plus 2–4 tbsp (30–60 ml) for drizzling over the top
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
3 large eggs
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) blanched almond flour
¼ cup (35 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup (25 g) oat flour
¾ tsp ground cardamom
¼ tsp fine sea salt
¾ cup (180 ml) whole milk
¼ cup (60 ml) heavy cream
1 lb (450 g) ripe but firm apricots (about 12 medium), halved and pitted
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). Grease a 10-inch (25-cm) solid tart pan or a 9-inch (23-cm) pie or cake pan with the 1 teaspoon butter and place on a rimmed baking sheet.
In a small pot set over a medium flame, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (42 g) butter and 3 tablespoons (45 ml) honey with the vanilla pod and scrapings until simmering. Remove from the heat and let steep for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla pod (you can rinse it, let it dry and save it for making Vanilla Extract.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until smooth. Push the almond, oat and rice flours and the cardamom and salt through a strainer directly into the egg mixture, adding back any bits that get caught in the strainer. Whisk until very smooth, then whisk in the melted butter and vanilla seed mixture. Gradually whisk in the milk and heavy cream. The consistency will be that of a thick crepe batter. (The batter can be made a day ahead and chilled overnight. If it separates, whisk it to recombine.)
Pour the batter into the pan and arrange the apricot halves, cut side up, over the batter. Bake the clafoutis until puffed and golden and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, 30–35 minutes. Remove and let cool for at least 20 minutes, then drizzle with the remaining 2–4 tablespoons (30–60 ml) honey. Serve warm or at room temperature. Leftovers can be refrigerated airtight for up to several days; reheat prior to serving if you like.
LEMON RICOTTA BISCUIT BREAD PUDDING WITH BERRIES AND HONEY
{OAT, MILLET}
I came up with this dessert as a way to use extra ricotta biscuits while testing out the recipe, though now I dare say I often bake a batch of biscuits for the sole purpose of turning them into this pudding. Toasted biscuits soak up a tangy custard laced with crème fraîche, nutmeg, vanilla and lemon. Topped with blistered blueberries and a drizzle of honey, the whole thing tastes a bit like ricotta cheesecake.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
1 tsp softened butter, for the pan
4 Lemon Ricotta Biscuits, preferably day
old, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks to equal about 3 cups (200 g)
2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar Seeds from ½ vanilla bean (or ½ tsp vanilla extract)
Finely grated zest from ½ large lemon
⅛ tsp fine sea salt
⅛ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
2 large eggs
½ cup (120 ml) Crème Fraîche or heavy cream
1 cup (235 ml) whole milk
1 cup (120 g) fresh or frozen blueberries
2 tbsp (30 ml) honey, for drizzling
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Lightly grease a 10 by 7–inch (25 by 18–cm) oval gratin dish or 8-inch (20-cm) round or square baking pan with the softened butter.
Spread the biscuit pieces on a rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven until golden and dry, 10–15 minutes. Let cool. Spread the toasted biscuits evenly in the buttered baking dish.
Place the sugar in a medium-sized bowl, add the vanilla seeds and lemon zest and rub with your fingers until the sugar is moistened. Whisk in the salt and nutmeg, then whisk in the eggs one at a time until smooth. Whisk in the crème fraîche, then the milk. Pour the custard over the biscuits in the pan and scatter the berries over the top.
Bake the pudding in the center of the oven until puffed and golden all over, 35–45 minutes. There should be no wet liquid if you peek into the center with the tip of a knife. Let the pudding cool to warm or room temperature, at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour. Serve warm or at room temperature, drizzled with the honey. Leftover pudding can be refrigerated airtight for up to 3 days; rewarm before serving.
CREAMY BAKED GRITS WITH SWEET CORN AND BERRIES
{CORN}
My dad used to make us Cream of Wheat cereal for breakfast every morning, and these baked grits satisfy in a similar way. Creamy, flecked with bits of grain, this turns out a handsome golden porridge from yellow corn polenta and crunchy kernels of sweet corn. Starting the grits on the stove then giving them a long bake in the oven means less hands-on time stirring, stirring, stirring. The top and edges get a bit caramelized and the grits thicken as they cool. These make a cozy early summer breakfast when doused with a splash of cream, a drizzle of honey and fresh berries. And don’t miss the savory variation topped with cheese and a turn of black pepper—it’s also highly addictive.
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