Lonely Planet's Top Tip
Harajuku, and especially the boulevard Omote-sandō, can get extremely crowded – with foot traffic moving at a slow, platform-shoe shuffle. If you want to seriously shop or zip around to see the museums and architecture, then head over on a weekday. If you want to get caught up in it all, check out the markets and people-watch, then come on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon.
Best Places to Eat
A Maisen
A Harajuku Gyōza Rō
A Yanmo
Best Places to Drink
A Two Rooms
A Oath
A Montoak
Best Places to Shop
A Dog
A Sou-Sou
A Laforet
A Musubi
A Bedrock
TOP SIGHT
Meiji-jingū (Meiji Shrine)
Wooden torii (gate) at Meiji-jingū | BEIBAOKE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
If you visit only one Shintō shrine in Tokyo, make it this one. Meiji-jingū is dedicated to the Emperor Meiji and Empress Shōken, whose reign (1868–1912) coincided with Japan's transformation from isolationist, feudal state to modern nation. The shrine is undergoing renovation in preparation for its centennial in 2020; some structures may be under wraps, but as a whole it will remain open.
Constructed in 1920 and destroyed in WWII air raids, the shrine was rebuilt in 1958; however, unlike so many of Japan’s postwar reconstructions, Meiji-jingū has an authentic old-world feel. The main shrine is made of cypress from the Kiso region of Nagano. To make an offering, toss a ¥5 coin in the box, bow twice, clap your hands twice and then bow again. To the right, you'll see kiosks selling ema (wooden plaques on which prayers are written) and omamori (charms).
Several wooden torii (gates) mark the entrance to Meiji-jingū. The largest, created from a 1500-year-old Taiwanese cypress, stands 12m high. It's the custom to bow upon passing through a torii, which marks the boundary between the mundane world and the sacred one.
Before approaching the main shrine, visitors purify themselves by pouring water over their hands at the temizuya (font). Dip the ladle in the water and first rinse your left hand then your right. Pour some water into your left hand and rinse your mouth, then rinse your left hand again. Make sure none of this water gets back into the font!
The shrine itself occupies only a small fraction of the sprawling forested grounds, which contain some 120,000 trees collected from all over Japan. Along the path towards the main shrine, is the entrance to Meiji-jingū Gyoen (明治神宮御苑; Inner Garden MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥500; h9am-4.30pm, to 4pm Nov-Feb; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-Sandō exit), a landscaped garden. It once belonged to a feudal estate; however, when the grounds passed into imperial hands, the emperor himself designed the iris garden to please the empress.
Don't Miss
AThe gates
AThe font
AMain shrine
AMeiji-jingū Gyoen
Practicalities
A明治神宮
A MAP GOOGLE MAP
Awww.meijijingu.or.jp
A1-1 Yoyogi Kamizono-chō, Shibuya-ku
Ahdawn-dusk
AdJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit
1Sights
1Harajuku
Meiji-jingū Top Sight
MAP GOOGLE MAP
oYoyogi-kōenPARK
(代々木公園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.yoyogipark.info; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)
If it’s a sunny and warm weekend afternoon, you can count on there being a crowd lazing around the large grassy expanse that is Yoyogi-kōen. You can also usually find revellers and noisemakers of all stripes, from hula-hoopers to African drum circles to a group of retro greasers dancing around a boom box. It’s an excellent place for a picnic and probably the only place in the city where you can reasonably toss a frisbee without fear of hitting someone.
During the warmer months, festivals take place on the plaza across from the park (see website, in Japanese, for a schedule). Cherry blossoms draw huge crowds and parties that go late into the night.
Yoyogi-kōen | LOTTIE DAVIES / LONELY PLANET ©
Yoyogi National StadiumARCHITECTURE
(国立代々木競技場; Kokuritsu Yoyogi Kyōgi-jō MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2-1-1 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)
This early masterpiece by architect Tange Kenzō was built for the 1964 Olympics (and will be used again in the 2020 games). The stadium, which looks vaguely like a samurai helmet, uses suspension-bridge technology – rather than beams – to support the roof.
oTakeshita-dōriAREA
(竹下通り MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit)
This is Tokyo’s famously outré fashion bazaar, where trendy duds sit alongside the trappings of decades of fashion subcultures (plaid and safety pins for the punks; colourful tutus for the decora; Victorian dresses for the Gothic Lolitas). Be warned: this pedestrian alley is a pilgrimage site for teens from all over Japan, which means it can get packed.
Takeshita-dōri | BIXPICTURE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial Museum of ArtMUSEUM
(浮世絵太田記念美術館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5777-8600; www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp; 1-10-10 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; adult ¥700-1000, child free; h10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)
Change into slippers to enter the peaceful, hushed museum that houses the excellent ukiyo-e (woodblock prints) collection of Ōta Seizo, the former head of the Toho Life Insurance Company. Seasonal, thematic exhibitions are easily digested in an hour and usually include a few works by masters such as Hokusai and Hiroshige. It's often closed the last few days of the month.
The shop in the basement sells beautifully printed tenugui (traditional hand-dyed thin cotton towels).
Kawaii Monster CafeNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5413-6142; http://kawaiimonster.jp/pc/; 4th fl, YM Bldg, 4-31-10 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; cover charge ¥500, drinks from ¥800; h11.30am-4.30pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)
Lurid colours, surrealist installations and out-of-this world costumes – this is the vision of Sebastian Masuda, stylist to pop star Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, who designed this new cafe. It's an embodiment of the now-reigning aesthetic of guro-kawaii (somewhat grotesque cuteness). Food and drink (not what you're here for, but you have to order something) are coloured to match the decor.
Cat StreetAREA
(キャットストリート MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)
Had enough of crowded Harajuku? Exit, stage right, for Cat Street, a windy road lined with a mishmash of boutiques and more room to move. The retail architecture is also quite a spectacle, as this is where smaller brands strike their monuments to consumerism if they can't afford to do so on the main drag.
Design FestaGALLERY
(デザインフェスタ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3479-1442; www.designfestagallery.com; 3-20-2 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; W; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit)F
Design Festa has been a leader in Tokyo’s DIY art scene for nearly two decades. The madhouse building itself is worth a visit; it’s always evolving. Inside there are dozens of small galleries rented by the day. More often than not, the artists themselves are hanging around, too.
Design Festa also sponsors a twice-yearly exhibition, actually Asia’s largest art fair, at Tokyo Big Sight.
1Aoyama & Gaienmae
oNezu MuseumMUSEUM
(根津美術館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3400-2536; www.nezu-muse.or.jp; 6-5-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; adult/student/child ¥1100/800/free, special exhibitions extra ¥200; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A5)
Nezu Museum offers a striking blend of old and new: a renowned collection of Japanese, Chinese and Korean antiquities in a gallery space designed by contemporary architect Kuma Kengo. Select items from th
e extensive collection are displayed in seasonal exhibitions. The English explanations are usually pretty good. Behind the galleries is a woodsy strolling garden laced with stone paths and studded with teahouses and sculptures.
Nezu Museum gardens | DE AGOSTINI / G. SOSIO / GETTY IMAGES ©
Taro Okamoto Memorial MuseumMUSEUM
(岡本太郎記念館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://taro-okamoto.or.jp; 6-1-19 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥620/310; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A5)
A painter and sculpture, Okamoto Tarō was Japan's most recognised artist from the post-WWII period, a rare avant-garde figure with mass appeal. His works are both playful and sinister, life-affirming and chaotic. This small museum, which includes a sculpture garden, is inside the artist's home.
Watari Museum of Contemporary ArtMUSEUM
(ワタリウム美術館; Watari-Um MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3402-3001; www.watarium.co.jp; 3-7-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; adult/student ¥1000/800; h11am-7pm Tue & Thu-Sun, to 9pm Wed; bGinza line to Gaienmae, exit 3)
This progressive and often provocative museum was built in 1990 to a design by Swiss architect Mario Botta. Exhibits range from retrospectives of established art-world figures (such as Yayoi Kusama and Nam June Paik) to graffiti and landscape artists – with some exhibitions spilling onto the surrounding streets. 'Pair' tickets cost ¥1600 for two.
There's an excellent art bookshop, On Sundays ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.watarium.co.jp; 3-7-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; bGinza line to Gaienmae, exit 3), in the basement.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
AOYAMA'S MARKETS
On weekends a farmers' market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.farmersmarkets.jp; 5-53-7 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h10am-4pm Sat & Sun; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B2), with colourful produce and a dozen food trucks, sets up on the plaza in front of the United Nations University on Aoyama-dōri. It's as much a social event as a shopping stop. Events pop up, too, including the hipster flea market Raw Tokyo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rawtokyo.jp; 5-53-7 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-6pm, 1st Sat & Sun of the month; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B2) – with DJs and live painting. For a festival atmosphere any day of the week, check out the collection of food vendors at Commune 246 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://commune246.com/; 3-13 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-10pm; v; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A4).
5Eating
5Harajuku
oHarajuku Gyōza-rōDUMPLINGS¥
(原宿餃子楼 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6-4-2 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; 6 gyōza ¥290; h11.30am-4.30am; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)
Gyōza (dumplings) are the only thing on the menu here, but you won’t hear any complaints from the regulars who queue up to get their fix. Have them sui (boiled) or yaki (pan-fried), with or without niniku (garlic) or nira (chives) – they’re all delicious. Expect to wait on weekends, but the line moves quickly.
oMaisenTONKATSU¥
(まい泉 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://mai-sen.com; 4-8-5 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥995/1680; h11am-10pm; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A2)
You could order something else (maybe fried shrimp), but everyone else will be ordering the famous tonkatsu (breaded, deep-fried pork cutlets). There are different grades of pork on the menu, including prized kurobuta (black pig), but even the cheapest is melt-in-your-mouth divine. The restaurant is housed in an old public bathhouse. A takeaway window serves delicious tonkatsu sando (sandwich).
Sakura-teiOKONOMIYAKI¥
(さくら亭 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3479-0039; www.sakuratei.co.jp; 3-20-1 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; okonomiyaki ¥950-1500; h11am-midnight; Wv; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit)
Grill your own okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) at this funky place inside the gallery Design Festa. In addition to classic options (with pork, squid and cabbage), there are some wacky innovations (try taco or carbonara okonomiyaki). There's also a great value 90-minute all-you-can-eat plan (lunch/dinner ¥1250/2100).
Kyūsyū JangaraRAMEN¥
(九州じゃんがら MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-13-21 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; ramen ¥630-1130; h10.45am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; v; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)
Come sample the elegantly thin noodles, silky chāshū (roast pork) and righteous karashi takana (hot pickled greens) for which Kyūshū-style ramen is famous. You can't go wrong with ordering zembu-iri (everything in). Vegetarians and vegans take note: Kyūsyū Jangara recently debuted a bowl just for you, which, against all odds, is actually pretty good.
Mominoki HouseJAPANESE¥¥
(もみの木ハウス MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mominoki-house.net; 2-18-5 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; lunch/dinner set menu from ¥980/2500; h11am-3pm & 5-11pm; v; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit)S
Boho Tokyoites have been coming here for tasty macrobiotic fare since 1976. The casual dining room, which looks like a grown-up (indoor) tree fort and features several cosy, semi-private booths, has seen some famous visitors too, such as Paul McCartney. Chef Yamada’s menu is heavily vegan, but also includes free-range chicken and Ezo shika (Hokkaidō venison, ¥4800).
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
GOLDEN GINGKOS
While Japan as a whole is world-famous for its sakura (cherry trees), Tokyo's official tree is the ichō (gingko). In late fall, the trees along Ichō Namiki (Gingko Avenue) in Gaienmae turn a glorious shade of gold. Locals know to grab a seat at Royal Garden Café (ローヤルガーデンカフェ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5414-6170; www.royal-gardencafe.com; 2-1-19 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-11pm; W; bGinza line to Gaienmae, exit 4A) for the best views.
5Aoyama & Gaienmae
Higashiya ManSWEETS¥
(ひがしや まん MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5414-3881; www.higashiya.com/shop/man/; 3-17-14 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; sweets ¥300; h11am-7pm; v; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A4)
Manjū (まんじゅう) – that's where the shop's name comes from; it's not just for men! – are hot buns stuffed with sweetened red-bean paste. They're steamed fresh at this take-away counter, a popular pit-stop for Aoyama shoppers. Inside the tiny shop, there's a greater selection of traditional Japanese sweets, many packaged beautifully for gifts.
Kinokuniya International SupermarketSUPERMARKET¥
(紀ノ国屋 インターナショナル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.super-kinokuniya.jp/store/international; basement fl, AO bldg, 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h9.30am-9pm; v; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B2)
Kinokuniya carries expat lifesavers such as Marmite and peanut butter; crusty, wholegrain bread; and cheeses galore (at a price of course).
YanmoSEAFOOD¥¥¥
(やんも MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5466-0636; www.yanmo.co.jp/aoyama/index.html; basement fl, T Place bldg, 5-5-25 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; lunch/dinner set menu from ¥1100/7560; h11.30am-2pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A5)
Freshly caught seafood from the nearby Izu Peninsula is the speciality at this upscale, yet unpretentious restaurant. If you're looking to splash out on a seafood dinner, this is a great place to do so. The reasonably priced set menus include sashimi and steamed and grilled fish. Reservations are essential for dinner. Lunch is a bargain, but you might have to queue.
MaruJAPANESE¥¥¥
(圓 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6418-5572; www.maru-mayfont.jp; basement fl, 5-50-8 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; dinner course from ¥6600; h6pm-1am Mon-Fri, 5pm-1am Sat, 5pm-midnight Sun; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B2)
Maru's chef trained at one of Kyoto's top kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) restaurants and then decided he'd rather run a down-to-earth, accessible restaurant. The 10-course meal (which changes monthly) is a great deal and Maru is deservedly popular; reservations are recommended.
2Neighbourhood Walk
Omote-sandō Architecture
Start Tokyū Plaza
End Nezu Museum
Length 1.5km; 1½ hours
Omote-sandō is like a walk-through showroom of the who’s who of contemporary architecture. Here y
ou'll see buildings from four of Japan's six Pritzker Prize winners: Maki Fumihiko, Andō Tadao, SANAA (Sejima Kazuyo and Nishizawa Ryūe) and Itō Toyō.
Start at the intersection of Omote-sandō and Meiji-dōri, with 1Tokyū Plaza, a castle-like structure built in 2012 and designed by up-and-coming architect Nakamura Hiroshi. The entrance is a dizzying hall of mirrors and there's a spacious roof garden on top.
Next up is something a little more understated: Andō’s deceptively deep 2Omotesandō Hills (2003). This high-end shopping mall spirals around a sunken central atrium.
Across the street, 3Dior Building (2003), designed by SANAA, has a filmy exterior that seems to hang like a dress. Nearby, a glass cone marks the unlikely location of the 4Japan Nursing Association (2004), designed by Kurokawa Kishō.
Aoki Jun’s 5Louis Vuitton Building (2002) has offset panels of tinted glass behind sheets of metal mesh that are meant to evoke a stack of trunks. There’s an art gallery on the 7th floor.
Climb onto the elevated crosswalk to better admire Itō’s construction for 6Tod’s (2004). The criss-crossing strips of concrete take their inspiration from the zelkova trees below; they’re also structural.
Fumihiko’s 1985 7Spiral Building is worth a detour down Aoyama-dōri. The patchwork, uncentred design is a nod to Tokyo’s own incongruous landscape. Inside, a spiralling passage doubles as an art gallery.
You can’t miss the convex glass fishbowl that is the 8Prada Aoyama Building (2003). Created by Herzog and de Meuron, it kicked off the design race down Omote-sandō.
Lonely Planet Tokyo Page 16