On another floor there's a video tutorial (with English subtitles) on how to find secret meaning in ukiyo-e (woodblock prints). Don't miss the roof terrace, which looks over the Sensō-ji temple complex.
Edo Shitamachi Traditional Crafts MuseumMUSEUM
(江戸下町伝統工芸館; Edo Shitamachi Dentō Kōgeikan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3842-1990; 2-22-13 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h10am-8pm; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1)F
Asakusa has a long artisan tradition, and changing exhibitions of local crafts – such as Edo-kiriko (cut glass) – are on display at this museum in a covered shopping arcade. Demonstrations are held on Saturdays and Sundays (between 11am and 5pm).
Taiko Drum MuseumMUSEUM
(太鼓館; Taiko-kan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3844-2141; www.miyamoto-unosuke.co.jp/taikokan; 4th fl, 2-1-1 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥500/150; hmuseum 10am-5pm Wed-Sun, shop 9am-6pm; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3)
There are hundreds of drums from around the world here, including several traditional Japanese taiko. The best part is that you can actually play most of them (those marked with a music note). The shop downstairs sells drums and a lot of other associated traditional crafts.
RICKSHAW RIDES
Hang around the entrance to Sensō-ji long enough and you're bound to get approached by a scantily clad, strapping young man offering you…a ride in his jinrikisha (rickshaw). Rides start at ¥4000 per 10 minutes for two people (¥3000 for one person).
1Oshiage
Tokyo Sky TreeTOWER
(東京スカイツリー MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tokyo-skytree.jp; 1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida-ku; 350m/450m observation decks ¥2060/3090; h8am-10pm; bHanzōmon line to Oshiage, Sky Tree exit)
Tokyo Sky Tree opened in May 2012 as the world’s tallest ‘free-standing tower’ at 634m. Its silvery exterior of steel mesh morphs from a triangle at the base to a circle at 300m. There are two observation decks, at 350m and 450m. You can see more of the city during daylight hours – at peak visibility you can see up to 100km away, all the way to Mt Fuji – but it is at night that Tokyo appears truly beautiful.
Sky Tree isn't the world's tallest built structure (that honour goes to Dubai's Burj Khalifa at 829.8m), but the panorama from the lower observatory, the Tembō Deck, is spectacular. Don’t miss the small section of glass floor panels, where you can see – dizzyingly – all the way to the ground. The upper observatory, the Tembō Galleria, beneath the digital broadcasting antennas, features a circular glass corridor for more vertiginous thrills. The elevator between the two has a glass front, so you can see yourself racing up the tower as the city grows smaller below.
The ticket counter is on the 4th floor. You'll see signs in English noting the wait and the current visibility. Try to avoid visiting on the weekend, when you might have to wait in line.
At the base is Tokyo Sky Tree Town, which includes the shopping centre Solamachi. Shops on the 4th floor here offer a better-than-usual selection of Japanese-y souvenirs, including pretty trinkets made from kimono fabric and quirky fashion items. On the 5th floor, Sumida City Point ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6796-6341; http://machidokoro.com; 5F Tokyo Skytree Town Solamachi, 1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida-ku; h10am-9pm; bHanzōmon line to Oshiage, exit B3), which promotes the many artisans and craft businesses of Sumida ward. There's a cafe where you can sample food specialities, usually craftspeople providing demonstations, and experts on hand to guide you to specific shops outside of the gravitational pull of the Sky Tree.
WORTH A DETOUR
WATCHING SUMO PRACTICE
Not in town for a sumo tournament? You can still catch an early-morning practice session at a 'stable' – where the wrestlers live and practise. Overseas visitors are welcome at Arashio Stable (荒汐部屋, Arashio-beya GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3666-7646; www.arashio.net/tour_e.html; 2-47-2 Hama-chō, Nihombashi, Chūō-ku; bToei Shinjuku line to Hamachō, exit A2), so long as they mind the rules (check the website). Visit between 7.30am and 10am – you can watch through the window or on a bench outside the door. There is no practice during tournament weeks.
1Ryōgoku
oEdo-Tokyo MuseumMUSEUM
(江戸東京博物館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3626-9974; www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp; 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; adult/child ¥600/free; h9.30am-5.30pm, to 7.30pm Sat, closed Mon; dJR Sōbu line to Ryōgoku, west exit)
This history museum, in a cavernous building, does an excellent job laying out Tokyo's miraculous transformation from feudal city to modern capital, through city models, miniatures of real buildings, reproductions of old maps and ukiyo-e (woodblock prints). It starts with a bang as you cross the life-sized partial replica of the original Nihombashi bridge and gaze down on facades of a kabuki theatre and Meiji-era bank. There is English signage throughout and a free audio guide available (¥1000 deposit).
On Saturdays there may be free traditional culture programs for tourists offered here, including magic tricks, paper cutting and acrobatics; see www.tokyo-tradition.jp/eng for details.
Sumida Hokusai MuseumMUSEUM
(すみだ北斎美術館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6658-8931; http://hokusai-museum.jp; 2-7-2 Kamezawa, Sumida-ku; adult/child/student ¥1200/400/900; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; bOedo line to Ryōgoku, exit A4)
The artist Katsushika Hokusai was born and died close to the location of this new museum, opened in 2016. The striking aluminium-clad building is designed by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Kazuyo Sejima. The museum's collection numbers more than 1500 pieces and includes some of the master's most famous images, such as The Great Wave off Kanagawa from his series Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji.
PRACTICAL TIP
ASAKUSA INFO CENTRE
The roof terrace of the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center (浅草文化観光センター GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3842-5566; http://taitonavi.jp; 2-18-9 Kaminarimon, Taitō-ku; h9am-8pm; W; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 2) has fantastic views of Tokyo Sky Tree and the Nakamise-dōri approach to Sensō-ji. Free guided tours of Asakusa depart from the centre on Saturdays and Sundays at 11am and 1.15pm. Also check to see if its program of geisha entertainment is running: it usually happens in April, June, July, October and November on Saturday at 1pm and 2.30pm with free tickets being issued at the centre from 10am.
1Kiyosumi & Fukagawa
Kiyosumi-teienGARDENS
(清澄庭園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://teien.tokyo-park.or.jp/en/kiyosumi/index.html; 3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Kōtō-ku; adult/child ¥150/free; h9am-5pm; bŌedo line to Kiyosumi-Shirakawa, exit A3)
One of Tokyo's most picturesque retreats, Kiyosumi-teien started out in 1721 as the villa of a daimyō (domain lord; regional lord under the shoguns). After the villa was destroyed in the 1923 earthquake, Iwasaki Yatarō, founder of the Mitsubishi Corporation, purchased the property. He used company ships to transport prize stones here from all over Japan, which are set around a pond ringed with Japanese black pine, hydrangeas and Taiwanese cherry trees.
oFukagawa Fudō-dōBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(深川不動尊 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3630-7020; www.fukagawafudou.gr.jp; 1-17-13 Tomioka, Kōtō-ku; h8am-6pm, to 8pm on festival days; bŌedo line to Monzen-Nakachō, exit 1)
Belonging to the esoteric Shingon sect, this is very much an active temple where you can attend one of the city's most spectacular religious rituals. Goma (fire rituals) take place daily in an auditorium in the Hondō (Main Hall) at 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm, plus 7pm on festival days (1st, 15th and 28th of each month). Sutras are chanted, giant taiko drums are pounded and flames are raised on the main altar as an offering to the deity.
At the end of the 30-minute ceremony, people line up to have their bags and other possessions passed over the dying flames as a blessing.
While here, don't miss the trippy prayer corridor with 9500 miniature Fudōmyō (a fierce-looking representation of Buddha’s determination) crystal statues. Upstairs is also a beautifully decorated gallery (open until 4pm) depicting all 88 temples of the 1400km pilgrimage route on the island of Shikoku; it is said that offering a prayer at each alco
ve has the same effect as visiting each temple.
Tomioka Hachiman-gūSHINTO SHRINE
(富岡八幡宮 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3642-1315; 1-20-3 Tomioka, Kōtō-ku; bŌedo line to Monzen-Nakachō, exit 1)
Founded in 1627, this shrine is famous as the birthplace of the sumo tournament. Around the back of the main building is the yokozuna stone, carved with the names of each of these champion wrestlers. Near the entrance are the two gilded, jewel-studded mikoshi (portable shrines), used in the Fukagawa Hachiman festival in mid-August; the larger one weighs 4.5 tonnes.
2Neighbourhood Walk
Shitamachi Tour
Start Asakusa Station, exit 4
End Ef
Length 2.5km; 2½ hours, plus lunch
This walk takes in the major sights in Asakusa, while giving you a feel for the flavour of Shitamachi (the old Edo-era ‘Low City’). First head over to 1Azuma-bashi. Originally built in 1774, it was once the point of departure for boat trips to the Yoshiwara pleasure district, north of Asakusa. From here you can get a good look at the golden flame of Super Dry Hall and the even more incongruent Tokyo Sky Tree, both across the river.
Retrace your steps to 2Kaminari-mon, the entrance to the grand temple complex 3Sensō-ji. Spend some time exploring the temple's highlights. Afterwards, walk past the nostalgic amusement park 4Hanayashiki, an Asakusa fixture since 1853.
Next take a detour up the covered arcade to the 5Edo Shitamachi Traditional Crafts Museum, where you can see the work of local artisans. Then head down the lane called 6Hoppy-dōri, lined with yakitori stalls. Go on, have a few skewers and a beer.
Pop over to look at lantern-lit 7Asakusa Engei Hall, reminiscent of the vaudeville halls that were once common here. The theatre is part of the Rokku district of Asakusa, a famous (and famously bawdy) entertainment district during the century before WWII. Pay a visit to vintage store 8Tokyo Hotarudo, where the goods pay homage to this era, when Asakusa was thought of as the Montmartre of Tokyo.
If you resisted the charms of Hoppy-dōri you can have a meal at 9Daikokuya, an old-school tempura restaurant, along Dembō-in-dōri, a strip with crafty stores. Don't miss the centuries-old comb store aYonoya Kushiho.
Take one of the roads parallel to Nakamise – a world away from the tourist hordes – and finish up at bEf, a cafe in a 19th-century wooden warehouse.
5Eating
5Asakusa & Oshiage
oOnigiri YadorokuJAPANESE¥
(おにぎり 浅草 宿六 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3874-1615; http://onigiriyadoroku.com; 3-9-10 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; set lunch ¥660 & ¥900, onigiri ¥200-600; h11.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 6pm-2am Thu-Tue; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 1)
Onigiri (rice-ball snacks), usually wrapped in crispy sheets of nori (seaweed) are a great Japanese culinary invention and this humbly decorated and friendly place specialises in them. The set lunches, including a choice of two or three onigiri, are a great deal. At night there's a large range of flavours to choose from along with alcohol.
RokurinshaRAMEN¥
(六厘舎 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rokurinsha.com; 6th fl, Solamachi, 1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida-ku; ramen from ¥850; h10.30am-11pm; bHanzōmon line to Oshiage, exit B3)
Rokurinsha's speciality is tsukemen – ramen noodles served on the side with a bowl of concentrated soup for dipping. The noodles here are thick and perfectly al dente and the soup has a rich tonkotsu (pork bone) base. It's an addictive combination that draws lines to this outpost in Tokyo Sky Tree Town.
Komagata DozeuJAPANESE¥
(駒形どぜう MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3842-4001; www.dozeu.com/en; 1-7-12 Komagata, Taitō-ku; mains from ¥1550; h11am-9pm; bGinza line to Asakusa, exits A2 & A4)
Since 1801, Komagata Dozeu has been simmering and stewing dojō (Japanese loach, which looks something like a miniature eel). Dojō-nabe (loach hotpot), served here on individual hibachi (charcoal stoves), was a common dish in the days of Edo, but few restaurants serve it today. The open seating around wide, wooden planks heightens the traditional flavour. There are lanterns out front.
DaikokuyaTEMPURA¥
(大黒家 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3844-1111; www.tempura.co.jp/english/index.html; 1-38-10 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; meals ¥1550-2100; h11am-8.30pm Sun-Fri, to 9pm Sat; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1)
Near Nakamise-dōri, this is the place to get old-fashioned tempura fried in pure sesame oil, an Asakusa speciality. It’s in a white building with a tile roof. If there’s a queue (and there often is), you can try your luck at the annexe one block over, where they also serve set-course meals.
SometarōOKONOMIYAKI¥
(染太郎 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3844-9502; 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; mains from ¥650; hnoon-10pm; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3)
Sometarō is a fun and funky place to try okonomiyaki (savoury Japanese-style pancakes filled with meat, seafood and vegetables that you cook yourself). This historic, vine-covered house is a friendly spot where the menu includes a how-to guide for novice cooks.
oOtafukuJAPANESE¥¥
(大多福 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3871-2521; www.otafuku.ne.jp; 1-6-2 Senzoku, Taitō-ku; oden ¥110-550; h5-11pm Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 1)
Over a century old, Otafuku specialises in oden (a classic Japanese stew). It's simmered at the counter and diners pick what they want from the pot. You can dine cheaply on radishes and kelp, or splash out on scallops and tuna or a full-course menu for ¥5400 – whichever way you go, you get to soak up Otafuku's convivial, old-time atmosphere.
Look for a shack-like entrance and lantern on the northern side of Kototoi-dōri.
Asakusa Unagi SanshoJAPANESE¥¥
(浅草 うなぎ さんしょ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3843-0344; 2-25-7 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; eel ¥2700-4300; h11.30am-2pm & 4-8pm Fri-Wed; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 4)
At this super-friendly and simple unagi (eel) restaurant the grilled eel is served in three different sizes: only go for large if you're really hungry. On the walls hang detailed traditional embroidery done by the mum, while the dad cooks the eels to perfection.
oAsakusa ImahanJAPANESE¥¥¥
(浅草今半 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3841-1114; www.asakusaimahan.co.jp; 3-1-12 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; lunch/dinner set menu from ¥3800/10,000; h11.30am-9.30pm; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 4)
For a meal to remember, swing by this famous beef restaurant, in business since 1895. Choose between courses of sukiyaki (sauteed beef dipped in raw egg) and shabu-shabu (beef blanched in broth); prices rise according to the grade of meat. For diners on a budget, Imahan sells a limited number of cheaper lunch sets (from ¥1500).
ASAKUSA STREET FOOD
Asakusa is great for street food. Here are some local favourites:
Iriyama Sembei (入山煎餅 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-13-4 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; sembei from ¥130; h10am-6pm Fri-Wed; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 4) At this century-old shop you can watch sembei (flavoured rice crackers) being hand-toasted on charcoal grills. Get them hot as takeaway or packaged as souvenirs.
Hoppy-dōri (ホッピー通り MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2-5 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; skewers from ¥120; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 4) Along either side of the street popularly known as Hoppy-dōri – ‘hoppy’ is a cheap malt beverage – food vendors set out stools and tables for customers to nosh on cheap yakitori (skewers of grilled meat or vegetables) from noon until late.
Chōchin Monaka (ちょうちんもなか MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; ice cream ¥330; h10am-5pm; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1) Traditionally, monaka are wafers filled with sweet bean jam. At this little stand on Nakamise-dōri, they're filled with ice cream instead – in flavours such as matcha (powdered green tea) and kuro-goma (black sesame).
5Ryōgoku, Kiyosumi & Shirakawa
KintameJAPANESE¥
(近為 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3641-2740; www.kintame.co.jp; 1-14-5 Tomioka, Kōtō-ku; meals from ¥1390; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun; bŌedo line to Monzen-Nakachō, exit 1)
This branch of the famous Kyoto-
based pickle shop provides tastings of its traditional preserves done in a variety of ways, including with salt, vinegar miso and soy sauce. At a communal table you can also try its filling and good-value meals of fish marinated in sake lees (the deposits produced during the alcohol's fermentation).
At the end of the shopping street leading to Fukagawa Fudō-dō, it's a good place for lunch when visiting the temple.
oKappō YoshibaJAPANESE¥¥
(割烹吉葉 GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3623-4480; www.kapou-yoshiba.jp/english/index.html; 2-14-5 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; dishes ¥600-6600; h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; bŌedo line to Ryōgoku Station, exit 1)
The former Miyagino sumo stable is the location for this one-of-a-kind restaurant that has preserved the dōyo (practice ring) as its centrepiece. Playing up to its sumo roots, you can order the protein-packed stew chanko-nabe (for two people from ¥4600), but Yoshiba's real strength is its sushi, which is freshly prepared in jumbo portions.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oCafé OtonovaCAFE
(カフェ・オトノヴァ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5830-7663; www.cafeotonova.net/#3eme; 3-10-4 Nishi-Asakusa; hnoon-11pm, to 9pm Sun; b)
Tucked away on an alley running parallel to Kappabashi-dōri, this charming cafe occupies an old house. Exposed beams are whitewashed and an atrium has been created, with cosy booths upstairs and a big communal table downstairs in front of the DJ booth. It's a stylish cafe by day and a romantic bolthole for drinks at night, with no table charge.
Lonely Planet Tokyo Page 25