ChihiraJuncoROBOT
(地平ジュンこ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3rd fl, Aqua City, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; h11am-9pm; dYurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen)F
The future is here. Maybe. ChihiraJunco is a demure lady android created by Toshiba who has her own information counter adjacent to the people-staffed information counter at the Aqua City shopping mall. At the time of research, she was not (yet?) able to answer spoken questions; however, she does answer questions entered into the touch panel – in Japanese, English or Chinese.
Mega WebSHOWROOM
(メガウェブ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3599-0808; www.megaweb.gr.jp; Palette Town, 1-3-12 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; h11am-9pm; dYurikamome line to Aomi)F
The highlight of visiting this Toyota showroom is getting to try out prototypes of the car company's Segway-like personal mobility device, Winglet. English instruction takes place daily from 2pm to 3pm. Riders must be over 140cm. Littler ones can practise driving (very slowly in a very controlled environment) tiny Lexus convertibles at the Ride Studio (11am to 6.15pm; rides ¥200 to ¥300).
Fuji TV BuildingARCHITECTURE
(フジテレビ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0180-993-188; 2-4-8 Daiba, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥550/300; hTue-Sun 10am-6pm; dYurikamome line to Daiba)
Designed by the late, great Kenzō Tange, the Fuji TV headquarters building is easily recognisable by the 1200-tonne orb suspended from the scaffolding-like structure. It's free to take the escalators up to the 7th floor; admission is for the observatories inside the orb.
TOP SIGHT
Ōedo Onsen Monogatari
Just to experience the truly Japanese phenomenon that is an amusement park centred on bathing is reason enough to visit. The baths here are filled with real hot-spring water, pumped from 1400m below Tokyo Bay. It's touristy, yes, but for visitors making their first foray into Japanese-style communal bathing, the light and kitschy atmosphere makes the actual bathing part that much less intimidating.
Upon entering, visitors change their clothes for a choice of colourful yukata (light cotton kimonos) to wear while they stroll around the complex, which is a lantern-lit re-creation of an old Tokyo downtown area, with food stalls and carnival games. There's a huge variety of baths here, including jet baths, pools of natural rock and, on the ladies' side, personal bucket-shaped baths made of cedar. These are segregated by gender, but there's also a communal outdoor foot bath, set in a garden, where mixed groups and families can hang out together (the town area is also communal).
Come after 6pm for a ¥500 discount. Visitors with tattoos will be denied admission. You can also crash here overnight, sleeping on reclining chairs in the lounge, bathing at whim if you want to dig deep into the onsen experience; there's a surcharge of ¥2000 per person if you stay between 2am and 5am.
A大江戸温泉物語
A MAP GOOGLE MAP
Awww.ooedoonsen.jp
A2-6-3 Aomi, Kōtō-ku
Aadult/child ¥2280/980, surcharge Sat & Sun ¥200
Ah11am-9am, last entry 7am
AdYurikamome line to Telecom Center, Rinkai line to Tokyo Teleport with free shuttle bus
1Tennōzu Isle
oArchi-DepotGALLERY
(建築倉庫; Kenchiku Sōko MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5769-2133; http://archi-depot.com; Warehouse Terrada, 2-6-10 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku; adult/child ¥1000/500; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun; dRinkai line to Tennōzu Isle, exit B)
This is brilliant: a facility that lets architects store the miniature models they make to conceptualise buildings (thus preserving them) and the public to see them up close. Many of the big names of Japanese architecture are represented here (Ban Shigero, Kuma Kengo). It looks very much like a storage room too, with the models sitting on rows of metal shelves (and not behind glass). Information about the architects can be accessed through QR codes.
Terrada Art ComplexGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://art.terrada.co.jp; 3rd fl, 1-33-10 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku; h11am-6pm Tue-Thu & Sat, to 8pm Fri; dRinkai line to Tennōzu Isle, exit B)
Part of the fashioning of the Tennōzu Isle warehouse district, this new art space contains five contemporary galleries – Kodama Gallery, Urano, Yamamoto Gendai, and Yuka Tsuruno Gallery – relocated under one roof from other parts of the city. It's on the 3rd floor of a charcoal-grey warehouse; look for the English sign by the elevator.
PRACTICAL TIP
GETTING AROUND ODAIBA
Odaiba has a vastness that feels odd after a few days in central Tokyo. While it is walkable, there can be some long slogs. The automated (driverless) Yurikamome line monorail runs around Odaiba, connecting the artificial islands to 'mainland' Tokyo. While principally a means of getting around, the ride itself is a treat: from Shimbashi (the central Tokyo terminus) the elevated tracks wend in-between skyscrapers before doing a loop to reach Rainbow Bridge, which it then takes over the waters to Odaiba. Fares are from ¥190 to ¥360; a one-day pass costs ¥820/¥410 per adult/child. Alternatively, there's Kōtō-ku's bike sharing scheme (%customer support 0120-116-819; http://docomo-cycle.jp/koto; per day ¥1500). It's a little tricky to work out (sign up for membership in advance), but your effort is rewarded with access to nifty electric-hybrid bicycles for zipping around Odaiba's wide, flat streets.
5Eating
BillsINTERNATIONAL¥
(ビルズ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bills-jp.net; 3rd fl, Seaside Mall, DECKS Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; mains from ¥1400; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat & Sun; Wc; dYurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen)
Australian chef Bill Granger has had a big hit with his restaurant chain in Japan – unsurprising given how inviting and spacious a place this is. The menu includes his classics such as ricotta hotcakes, and lunch and dinner mains such as wagyū burgers. The terrace also has great bay views.
Odaiba Takoyaki MuseumJAPANESE¥
(お台場たこ焼きミュージアム MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4th fl, Seaside Mall, DECKS Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; takoyaki from ¥420; h11am-9pm; dYurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen)
Seven different stalls dish up variations on the classic fried batter and octopus balls usually served from street stalls at festivals and events.
TY Harbor BreweryAMERICAN¥¥
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5479-4555; www.tyharborbrewing.co.jp; 2-1-3 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku; lunch set meal ¥1200-1700, dinner mains from ¥1700; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm; bRinkai line to Tennōzu Isle, exit B)
In a former warehouse on the waterfront, TY Harbor serves up excellent burgers, steaks and crab cakes and offers views of the canals around Tennōzu Isle. It also brews its own beer on the premises and is a favourite brunch spot for expats. Call ahead to book a seat on the terrace.
HibikiJAPANESE¥¥
(響 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3599-5500; www.dynac-japan.com/hibiki; 6th fl, Aqua City, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; lunch set menu ¥1000-2000, dishes ¥650-2700; h11am-3pm & 5-11pm; dYurikamome line to Daiba, south exit)
Hibiki has glittering views across the bay, and a menu featuring seasonal dishes, hearty grilled meats and fresh tofu, along with sake and shōchū (strong distilled alcohol often made from potatoes). The lunch set is a good deal and includes a small salad bar; choose your main dish from the samples out the front. There's a ¥550 seating charge at dinner.
NEW TOYOSU MARKET
The Tokyo Metropolitan Government has been planning to move Tsukiji Market to a new facility in Toyosu, one of Tokyo Bay's artificial islands, for years. The new structure, called Toyosu Market (豊洲市場), was ready to go – when it was discovered that officials in charge had cut corners on work to decontaminate the land (where a gas refinery once stood). The move was halted and plans were still suspended, awaiting review, at the time of research.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Jicoo the Floating BarCOCKTAIL BAR
(ジークザフローティングバー MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0120-049-490; www.jicoofloatingbar.com; cover from ¥2600; h8-10.30pm Thu-Sat; dYurikamome line to Hinode or Odaiba Kaihin-kōen)
For a few nights a week, the futuristic cruise-boat Himiko, designed by manga and anime artist Leiji Matsumoto, morphs into this floating bar. Board on the hour at Hinode pier and the half-hour at Odaiba Kaihin-kōen. The evening-long ‘floating pass’ usually includes some sort of live music; check the schedule online as sometimes events drive up the price.
AgehaCLUB
(アゲハ GOOGLE MAP ; www.ageha.com; 2-2-10 Shin-Kiba, Kōtō-ku; cover ¥2500-4000; h11pm-5am Fri & Sat; bYūrakuchō line to Shin-Kiba, main exit)
This gigantic waterside club, the largest in Tokyo, rivals any you’d find in LA or Ibiza. Top international and Japanese DJs appear here. Free buses run between the club and a bus stop on the east side of Shibuya Station (on Roppongi-dōri) all night. Events vary widely; check the website for details and bring photo ID.
7Shopping
oPigmentARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5781-9550; https://pigment.tokyo; Terrada Harbor One Bldg., 2-5-5 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku; h11am-8pm, closed Mon & Thu; dRinkai line to Tennōzu Isle, exit B)
This is an art supply store to make you go weak in the knees: the walls are lined with vials of pigments – including the crushed mineral pigments used in traditional Japanese painting – in shades from vermilion to matcha (green tea). There are drawers of brushes, rolls of washi (Japanese paper) and displays of weighty ink stones.
Strange LoveANTIQUES
(ストレンジラブ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.strangelove.co.jp; 2nd fl, Venus Fort, 1-3-15 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; h11am-9pm; dYurikamome line to Aomi)
Ding the ship's bell to gain access to this warehouse-like antiques and curio store, stocking items for those with adult or macabre tastes.
2Sports & Activities
Ōedo Onsen Monogatari Top Sight
MAP GOOGLE MAP
MaricarSCENIC DRIVE
(マリカー MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0120-81-9999, 080-9999-2525; http://maricar.jp; 1-23-15 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku; per person from ¥3500; dKeikyū line to Kita-Shinagawa)
We're not sure how this is legal (and Nintendo has had words to say about copyright infringement), but at least at the time of writing it still is: go-karting on the streets of Tokyo dressed as your favourite Mario Kart character. It brings the idea of Tokyo as a real-life video game experience to a whole new level. You must, however, have a valid international (or Japanese) driver's license.
The operation feels a little slap-dash and there's no practising on the go-karts, which can be tricky at first, before you're on the road with trucks and buses, so absolutely speak up if you're not comfortable; one of the English-speaking guides will hang back with you, or re-route the course. While daytime is best for snapping photos, the night course over the Rainbow Bridge across Tokyo Bay to Odaiba wins for sheer thrill.
Tokyo Disney ResortAMUSEMENT PARK
(東京ディズニーリゾート GOOGLE MAP ; %domestic calls 0570-00-8632, from overseas +81-45-330-5211; www.tokyodisneyresort.co.jp; 1-1 Maihama, Urayasu-shi, Chiba-ken; 1-day ticket for 1 park adult/child ¥7400/4800, after 6pm ¥4200; hvaries by season; dJR Keiyō line to Maihama)
Here you'll find not only Tokyo Disneyland, modelled after the one in California, but also Tokyo DisneySea, an original theme park with seven 'ports' evoking locales real and imagined (the Mediterranean and 'Mermaid Lagoon', for example). DisneySea targets a more grown-up crowd, but still has many attractions for kids. Both resorts get extremely crowded, especially on weekends and during summer holidays; you'll have to be strategic with your fast passes. Book admission tickets online to save time.
Tokyo JoypolisAMUSEMENT PARK
(東京ジョイポリス MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://tokyo-joypolis.com; 3rd-5th fl, DECKS Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥800/300, all-rides passport ¥4300/3300, passport after 5pm ¥3300/2300; h10am-10pm; dYurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen)
This indoor amusement park is stacked with virtual-reality attractions and adult thrill rides, such as the video-enhanced Halfpipe Canyon; there are rides for little ones, too. Separate admission and individual ride tickets (¥500 to ¥800) are available, but if you plan to go on more than half a dozen attractions, the unlimited ‘passport’ makes sense.
Dai-kanranshaFERRIS WHEEL
(大観覧車 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.daikanransha.com; 1-3-10 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; ¥920; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; dYurikamome line to Aomi)
The world's tallest Ferris wheel when it opened in 1999 (it lost that title in 2000), this Odaiba landmark offers glorious views over the city and the bay. It's also great eye-candy when illuminated at night in a rainbow of colours.
oT-Art AcademyART & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://pigment.tokyo/academy; Terrada Harbor One Bldg, 2-5-5 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku; per person from ¥4000; dRinkai line to Tennōzu Isle, exit B)
Run in conjunction with art supply store Pigment, these artist-led workshops include topics such as 'intro to calligraphy' and 'how to mix traditional paints' (with mineral pigments and animal fat). Some are held in English (you can join the Japanese classes, too); if you've got a group you can request a workshop with a translator (at extra cost). Reservations necessary.
YAKATABUNE BAY CRUISES
Those low-slung wooden boats out on the bay, bedecked with lanterns, are yakatabune and they’ve been a Tokyo tradition since the days of Edo. They’re usually used for private parties, which typically include all-you-can-eat-and-drink banquets and karaoke.
Usually they are chartered affairs (requiring groups of 15 or more); however, Tsukishima Monja Yakatabune (月島もんじゃ屋形船 GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3533-6699; www.4900yen.com; 2-6-3 Shin-Kiba, Kōtō-ku; per person from ¥5000; bYūrakuchō line to Shin-Kiba, main exit) accepts bookings for as few as two people, to join shared cruises. The two-hour (day or night) cruise includes free-flowing beer and all-you-can-eat monja-yaki (a savoury, scrambled batter-style dish and Tokyo speciality). The departure point is far-flung Shin-Kiba pier, a short (and free) shuttle-bus ride from Shin-Kiba Station.
More upscale Funasei (船清 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5479-2731; www.funasei.com; 1-16-8 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku; per person ¥10,800; dKeikyū line to Kita-Shinagawa), a charter company, also runs shared cruises several times a month, which you can book if you have at least two people. Their 2½-hour cruises come with sashimi and tempura dinners and all-you-can-drink beer and sake. There's a schedule of departures on the website (in Japanese).
Reservations are essential for both, and you'll need a Japanese speaker to help you book. There's also the option to take the modern-day booze cruise that is Jicoo the Floating Bar – no reservation required.
Day Trips from Tokyo
Mt Fuji
Follow the pilgrim trail up Japan's most famous peak for a sunrise to beat all others, or admire views of the perfect snowcapped cone from below.
Nikkō
Take in the grandeur of old Edo at the spectacular shrines and temples of Nikkō, in the wooded mountains north of Tokyo.
Hakone
A centuries-old hot-spring resort in the mist-shrouded hills southwest of Tokyo, Hakone offers scenery straight out of a woodblock painting and plenty of onsen.
Kamakura
An ancient feudal capital, seaside Kamakura is packed with temples and shrines, plus the Daibutsu (Big Buddha) statue.
TOP SIGHT
Mt Fuji
Catching a glimpse of Mt Fuji (富士山; 3776m), Japan's highest and most famous peak, will take your breath away. Climbing it and watching the sunrise from the summit is one of Japan's superlative experiences (though it's often cloudy). The official climbing season runs from 1 July to 31 August.
Climbing
The Japanese proverb 'He who climbs Mt Fuji once is a wise man, he who climbs it twice is a fool' remains as valid as ever. While reaching the top brings a great sense of achievement, it's a gruelling climb not known for its beautiful scenery or for being at one with nature.
The mountain is divided into 10
'stations' from base (First Station) to summit (Tenth). From the base station is the original pilgrim trail, but these days most climbers start from the halfway point at one of the four Fifth Stations. The Kawaguchi-ko Trail is by far and away the most popular route. It's accessed from Fuji Subaru Line Fifth Station (aka Kawaguchi-ko Fifth Station), and has the most modern facilities and is easiest to reach from Tokyo.
Allow five to six hours to reach the top (though some climb it in half the time) and about three hours to descend, plus 1½ hours for circling the crater at the top.
Know Before You Go
Mt Fuji is a serious mountain, high enough for altitude sickness, and on the summit it can go from sunny and warm to wet, windy and cold remarkably quickly. Even if conditions are fine, you can count on it being close to freezing in the morning, even in summer. Also be aware that visibility can rapidly disappear with a blanket of mist rolling in suddenly.
At a minimum, bring clothing appropriate for cold and wet weather, including a hat and gloves. Also bring at least two litres of water (you can buy more on the mountain during the climbing season), as well as a map, snacks and cash for other necessities, such as toilets (¥200). If you're climbing at night, bring a torch (flashlight) or headlamp, and spare batteries.
Lonely Planet Tokyo Page 27