Onsen in Hakone | NORDICPHOTOS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
Chūzen-ji Onsen & Yumoto Onsen
Onsen are a feature of this beautiful lakeland area 11.5km west of the old pilgrim town of Nikkō, itself around two hours northeast of Tokyo. The town of Chūzen-ji Onsen, once a retreat for foreign dignitaries, has several rambling old resort hotels with excellent bathhouses, which are open to day trippers.
Beyond Chūzen-ji Onsen, and accessible via a pleasant three-hour hike across picturesque marshland (or by car or bus), is the more humble hot-spring town Yumoto Onsen. Hotels here also have baths you can use, but better is the hot-spring temple Onsen-ji, which has a small wooden bathhouse; it's dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of healing.
The waters in these parts are milky-white and rich in sulphur.
Many onsen, larger bathhouses with leisure facilities (called super sentō) and saunas refuse entry to people with tattoos because of the association of tattoos with the yakuza (Japanese mafia). However, most ordinary sentō, which are public bathhouses for the local community, are open to all.
Sentō
As little as 50 years ago, many private homes in Japan did not have baths, so in the evenings people headed off to the local neighbourhood sentō (public bath). More than just a place to wash oneself, the sentō served as a kind of community meeting hall, where news and gossip were traded and social ties strengthened.
In 1968, at the peak of their popularity, Tokyo had 2687 sentō; now there are around 1000. Some look as though they haven’t changed in decades. Others – sometimes called super sentō – have evolved with the times, adding saunas, jet baths, denki-buro (literally an ‘electric bath’ that’s spiked with an electric current; it feels as unsettling as it sounds) and coin laundries.
A soak in a sentō is both a cultural experience and an ideal way to recover from a day of sightseeing. Bathhouses can be identified by their distinctive noren (half-length curtains over the doorway), which usually bear the hiragana (ゆ; yu) for hot water (occasionally, it may be written in kanji: 湯).
Admission to a sentō rarely costs more than ¥500. You're expected to bring your own towel and toiletries; however, you can show up empty handed and rent a towel and purchase soap, shampoo etc for a small price. Most bathhouses open from around 3pm to midnight.
Two sentō worth trying are Shimizu-yu, popular with shoppers freshening up in Aoyama; and Komparu-yu, a Ginza institution for more than 150 years.
Bathing Etiquette
Bathing isn’t just a pastime, it’s a ritual – one so embedded in Japanese culture that everyone knows exactly what to do. This can be intimidating to the novice, but really all you need to know to avoid causing alarm is to wash yourself before getting into the bath. It’s also a good idea to memorise the characters for men (男) and women (女), which will be marked on the noren hanging in front of the respective baths.
Upon entering an onsen or sentō, the first thing you’ll encounter is a row of lockers for your shoes. After you pay your admission and head to the correct changing room, you’ll find either more lockers or baskets for your clothes. Take everything off here, entering the bathing room with only the small towel.
That little towel performs a variety of functions: you can use it to wash (but make sure to give it a good rinse afterwards) or to cover yourself as you walk around. It is not supposed to touch the water though, so leave it on the side of the bath or – as the locals do – folded on top of your head.
Park yourself on a stool in front of one of the taps and give yourself a thorough wash. Make sure you rinse off all the suds. When you’re done, it’s polite to rinse off the stool for the next person. At more humble bathhouses you might have little more than a ladle to work with; in that case, crouch low and use it to scoop out water from the bath and pour over your body – taking care not to splash water into the tub – and scrub a bit with the towel.
In the baths, keep splashing to a minimum and your head above the water. Before heading back to the changing room, wipe yourself down with the towel to avoid dripping on the floor.
Accoutrements for bathing | YASUHIDE FUMOTO / GETTY IMAGES ©
Transport
Arriving in Tokyo
Getting Around Tokyo
Tours
Transport
Arriving in Tokyo
Tokyo has two international airports. Narita Airport, in neighbouring Chiba Prefecture, is the primary gateway to Tokyo; most budget flights end up here. Haneda Airport, closer to the city centre, is now seeing an increasing number of international flights; this is also where most domestic flights arrive. Flying into Haneda means quicker and cheaper access to central Tokyo. Both airports have smooth, hassle-free entry procedures, and are connected to the city centre by public transport.
Flights, tours and cars can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
Narita Airport
The excellent, modern Narita Airport (NRT; 成田空港 GOOGLE MAP ; %0476-34-8000; www.narita-airport.jp) is inconveniently located 66km east of Tokyo. There are three terminals (the new Terminal 3 handles low-cost carriers). Note that only Terminals 1 and 2 have train stations. Free shuttle buses run between all the terminals every 15 to 30 minutes (from 7am to 9.30pm). Another free shuttle runs between Terminal 2 and Terminal 3 every five to 12 minutes (4.30am to 11.20pm); otherwise it is a 15-minute walk between the two terminals. All terminals have tourist information desks.
Bus
Purchase tickets from kiosks in the arrivals hall (no advance reservations necessary). From Tokyo, there's a ticket counter inside the Shinjuku Bus Terminal (バスタ新宿; Busuta Shinjuku MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6380-4794; http://shinjuku-busterminal.co.jp; 5-24-55 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; W; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, new south exit).
Friendly Airport Limousine (www.limousinebus.co.jp/en) Scheduled, direct, reserved-seat buses (¥3100) depart from all Narita Airport terminals for major hotels and train stations in Tokyo. The journey takes 1½ to two hours depending on traffic. At the time of research, discount round-trip 'Welcome to Tokyo Limousine Bus Return Voucher' tickets (¥4500) were available for foreign tourists; ask at the ticket counter at the airport.
Keisei Tokyo Shuttle (www.keiseibus.co.jp) Discount buses connect all Narita Airport Terminals and Tokyo Station (¥1000, approximately 90 minutes, every 20 minutes from 6am to 11pm). There are less frequent departures from Tokyo Station for Narita Airport terminals 2 and 3 between 11pm and 6am (¥2000), which are handy for budget flights at odd hours.
Train
Both Japan Railways (JR) and the independent Keisei line run between central Tokyo and Narita Airport Terminals 1 and 2. For Terminal 3, take a train to Terminal 2 and then walk or take the free shuttle bus to Terminal 3 (and budget an extra 15 minutes). Tickets can be purchased in the basement of either terminal, where the entrances to the train stations are located.
Keisei Skyliner (www.keisei.co.jp/keisei/tetudou/skyliner/us) The quickest service into Tokyo runs nonstop to Nippori (¥2470, 36 minutes) and Ueno (¥2470, 41 minutes) stations, on the city's northeast side, where you can connect to the JR Yamanote line or the subway (Ueno Station only). Trains run twice an hour, 8am to 10pm. Foreign nationals can purchase advanced tickets online for slightly less (¥2200). The Skyliner & Tokyo Subway Ticket, which combines a one-way or round-trip ticket on the Skyliner and a one-, two- or three-day subway pass, is a good deal.
Keisei Main Line Limited-express trains (kaisoku kyūkō; ¥1030, 71 minutes to Ueno) follow the same route as the Skyliner but make stops. This is a good budget option. Trains run every 20 minutes during peak hours.
Narita Express (www.jreast.co.jp/e/nex) A swift and smooth option, especially if you're staying on the west side of the city, N’EX trains depart Narita approximately every half-hour between 7am and 10pm for Tokyo Station (¥3020, 53 minutes) and Shinjuku (¥3190, 80 minutes); the latter also stops at Shibuya (¥3190; 75 minutes). Additional trains run to Shinagawa (¥3190, 65 minutes) and Ikebukuro (¥3190, 8
5 minutes). At the time of research, foreign tourists could purchase return N'EX tickets for ¥4000 (valid for 14 days; ¥2000 for under 12s). Check online or enquire at the JR East Travel Service centres at Narita Airport for the latest deals. Long-haul JR passes are valid on N’EX trains, but you must obtain a seat reservation (no extra charge) from a JR ticket office.
Taxi
Fixed-fare taxis run ¥20,000 to ¥22,000 for most destinations in central Tokyo. There's a 20% surcharge between 10pm and 5am. Credit cards accepted.
Haneda Airport
Closer to central Tokyo, Haneda Airport (HND; 羽田空港 GOOGLE MAP ; %international terminal 03-6428-0888; www.tokyo-airport-bldg.co.jp/en) has two domestic terminals and one international terminal. Note that some international flights arrive at awkward night-time hours, between midnight and 5am, when trains, buses and the monorail to central Tokyo will not be running. Keep in mind the price of a taxi (or the hours spent camped at the airport) when you book your ticket.
There’s a Tourist Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6428-0653; h24hr; W) in the international terminal, on the 2nd floor of the arrivals lobby.
Bus
Purchase tickets at the kiosks at the arrivals hall. In Tokyo, there's a ticket counter inside the Shinjuku Bus Terminal.
Friendly Airport Limousine (www.limousinebus.co.jp/en) Coaches connect Haneda with major train stations and hotels in Shibuya (¥1030), Shinjuku (¥1230), Roppongi (¥1130), Ginza (¥930) and others; fares double between midnight and 5am. Travel times vary wildly, taking anywhere from 30 to 90 minutes depending on traffic. Night buses depart for Shibuya Station at 12.15am, 12.50am and 2.20am and Shinjuku Bus Terminal at 12.20am and 1am; for Haneda, there is a bus from Shibuya Station at 3.30am and one from Shinjuku Bus Terminal at 4am. Regular service resumes at 5am.
Haneda Airport Express (http://hnd-bus.com) Though more useful for suburban destinations than downtown ones, coaches do travel to handy places such as Shibuya Station (¥1030) and Tokyo Station (¥930) in about an hour, depending on traffic, from 5am to midnight. Night buses depart for Shibuya Station (¥2600) via Roppongi Hills at 12.50am and 2.20am.
Monorail
Tokyo Monorail (www.tokyo-monorail.co.jp/english) leaves approximately every 10 minutes (5am to midnight) for Hamamatsuchō Station (¥490, 15 minutes), which is a stop on the JR Yamanote line. Good for travellers staying near Ginza or Roppongi.
Train
Keikyū Airport Express (www.haneda-tokyo-access.com/en) trains depart several times an hour (5.30am to midnight) for Shinagawa (¥410, 12 minutes), where you can connect to the JR Yamanote line. From Shinagawa, some trains continue along the Asakusa subway line, which serves Higashi-Ginza, Nihombashi and Asakusa stations.
Note that the international and domestic terminals have their own stations; when traveling to the airport, the international terminal is the second to last stop.
Taxi
Fixed fares include Ginza (¥5600), Shibuya (¥6400), Shinjuku (¥6800), Ikebukuro (¥8500) and Asakusa (¥6900). There's a 20% surcharge between 10pm and 5am. Credit cards accepted.
BAGGAGE SHIPMENT
Baggage couriers provide next-day delivery of your large luggage from Narita and Haneda airports to any address in Tokyo (around ¥2000 per large bag) or beyond, so you don’t have to haul it on the trains. Look for kiosks in the arrival terminals. If you plan on taking advantage of this service, make sure to put the essentials you'll need for the next 24 hours in a small bag. Going the other way, many Tourist Information Centers can ship luggage to the airport.
Getting Around Tokyo
Efficient, clean and virtually crime-free, Tokyo's public transport system is the envy of the world. Of most use to travellers is the train and subway system, which is easy to navigate thanks to English signage.
Train & Subway
Tokyo’s extensive rail network includes JR lines, a subway system and private commuter lines that depart in every direction for the suburbs, like spokes on a wheel. Trains arrive and depart precisely on time. Journeys that require transfers between lines run by different operators cost more than journeys that use only one operator's lines. Major transit hubs include Tokyo, Shinagawa, Shibuya, Shinjuku, Ikebukuro and Ueno stations.
TOP TRAIN TIPS
AFigure out the best route to your destination with the Japan Travel app (https://navitimejapan.com); you can download routes to be used offline, too.
AMost train and subway stations have several different exits. Try to get your bearings and decide where to exit while still on the platform; look for the yellow signs that indicate which stairs lead to which exits.
AIf you're not sure which exit to take, look for street maps of the area usually posted near the ticket gates, which show the locations of the exits.
Japan Railways (JR) Lines
The JR network covers the whole country and includes the shinkansen (bullet train). In Tokyo, the above-ground Yamanote (loop) and the Chūō–Sōbu (central) lines are the most useful. Tickets start at ¥133 and go up depending on how far you travel.
Subway
Tokyo has 13 subway lines, nine of which are operated by Tokyo Metro (www.tokyometro.jp/en) and four by Toei (www.kotsu.metro.tokyo.jp/eng). The lines are colour-coded, making navigation fairly simple. Unfortunately a transfer ticket is required to change between the two; a Pasmo or Suica card makes this process seamless, but either way a journey involving more than one operator comes out costing more. Rides on Tokyo Metro cost ¥170 to ¥240 (¥90 to ¥120 for children) and on Toei ¥180 to ¥320 (¥90 to ¥160 for children), depending on how far you travel.
KEY TRAIN & SUBWAY ROUTES
Ginza subway line Shibuya to Asakusa, via Ginza and Ueno. Colour-coded orange.
Hibiya subway line Naka-Meguro to Ebisu, Roppongi, Ginza, Akihabara and Ueno. Colour-coded grey.
JR Yamanote line Loop line stopping at many sightseeing destinations, such as Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku, Tokyo and Ueno. Colour-coded light green.
JR Chūō line Tokyo Station to points in west Tokyo, via Shinjuku. Colour-coded reddish-orange.
JR Sōbu line Runs across the city centre, connecting Shinjuku with Iidabashi, Ryōgoku and Akihabara. Colour-coded yellow.
Yurikamome line Elevated train running from Shimbashi to points around Tokyo Bay.
Private Commuter Lines
Private commuter lines service some of the hipper residential neighbourhoods. Useful trains:
Keiō Inokashira line (from Shibuya for Shimo-Kitazawa and Kichijōji)
Odakyū line (from Shinjuku for Shimo-Kitazawa)
Tōkyū-Tōyoko line (from Shibuya for Daikanyama and Naka-Meguro)
Note that the commuter lines run tokkyū (特急; limited-express services), kyūkō (急行; express) and futsū (普通; local) trains; when in doubt, take a local.
Tickets
APurchase paper tickets or top up train passes at the touch-screen ticket-vending machines outside station ticket gates. These have an English function. (Older push-button machines do still exist in some stations and sell only paper tickets.)
ATo purchase a paper ticket, you'll need to work out the correct fare from the chart above the machines. If you can't work it out, just buy a ticket for the cheapest fare.
AAll ticket gates have card readers for Suica and Pasmo train passes; simply wave your card over the reader.
AIf you're using a paper ticket or a one-day pass, you'll need to use a ticket gate with a slot for inserting a ticket. Make sure to pick it up when it pops out again.
AYou'll need your ticket or pass to exit the station as well. If your ticket or pass does not have sufficient charge to cover your journey, insert it into one of the 'fare adjustment' machines near the exit gates.
SUICA & PASMO CARDS
Prepaid re-chargeable Suica and Pasmo cards work on all city trains, subways and buses. With either (they're essentially the same), you'll be able to breeze through the ticket gates of any station without having to work out fares or transfer tickets. Fares
for pass users are also slightly less (a few yen per journey) than for paper-ticket holders.
The only reason not to go with a Suica or Pasmo is to take advantage of Tokyo Metro's 24-hour unlimited-ride pass (adult/child ¥600/300). Note that this is only good on the nine subway lines operated by Tokyo Metro. There are other (more expensive) passes that include rides on Toei subway and Tokyo-area JR lines, but the Tokyo Metro pass is the best deal.
Suica or Pasmo cards can be purchased from any touch-screen ticket-vending machine in Tokyo (including those at Haneda and Narita Airports). Suica (available at JR stations) requires a minimum initial charge of ¥2000 (which includes a ¥500 deposit). Pasmo (available at subway and commuter line stations) requires a minimum initial charge of ¥1000 (which includes a ¥500 deposit). The deposit (along with any remaining charge) is refunded when you return the pass to any ticket window.
Both passes can be topped-up at any touch-screen ticket-vending machine (not just, for example, at JR stations for Suica passes) in increments of ¥1000. Ticket-vending machines have an English option so all of this is actually quite easy.
Discount Passes
City Passes
If you're planning a packed day, you might consider getting an unlimited-ride ticket. For details and information on other passes, see www.gotokyo.org/en/tourists/info/profit/index.html.
Lonely Planet Tokyo Page 37