1½ oz/40g cilantro stems, cut into 2½-inch/6cm lengths
2 red chiles, sliced in half lengthwise
12 green onions: 10 sliced in half lengthwise, 2 thinly sliced, to serve (4¼ oz/120g)
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Place the chicken legs in a large bowl with the oil and ¾ tsp salt. Mix together.
Place a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Once hot, add half the chicken legs, skin side down, and sear for 4–5 minutes, until golden brown. Turn over, cook for another 4–5 minutes, then remove from the pan. Repeat with the remaining chicken, discarding the fat as you go, and set aside.
Place the mirin, maple syrup, soy sauce, miso, ginger, garlic, lime strips, and lime juice in a large bowl. Whisk to combine, then add the chicken and stir well, so that everything is coated. Put the cilantro, chiles, and the 10 halved green onions into a high-sided baking dish (about 9 x 13 inches/24 x 36cm) and place the chicken on top, skin side up. Cover the dish tightly with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil, turn the chicken legs over (skin side down), and return the dish to the oven for 30 minutes uncovered, turning the legs back over after 15 minutes (skin side up) and basting a couple of times. The chicken will be golden brown, sticky, and tender and the chiles and green onions will be soft.
To serve, place a chicken leg on each plate and surround it with the cilantro, chile, and halved green onions. Finally, drizzle with the sauce and sprinkle with the thinly sliced green onions.
Pork with ginger, green onion, and eggplant
Pictured on this page, right
This is one of my go-to easy suppers. Get all your chopping done for the things that go in with the pork before you turn on the stove. Once the heat is on, you’ll want to be throwing things in the pan and stirring, rather than being under pressure to chop. You can make the pork up to 1 day in advance; keep in the fridge and warm through before serving. Serve as it is or with plain rice or noodles.
Serves four
3 eggplant, cut into 1¼-inch/3cm dice (12 cups/950g)
salt
¼ cup/60ml peanut oil
2 or 3 bunches of green onions, chopped on an angle into 1¼-inch/3cm slices (3½ cups/250g)
2¾-inch/7cm piece of ginger, peeled and julienned (6 tbsp/60g)
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 green chile, thinly sliced
1 lb 2 oz/500g ground pork
3 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp dark soy sauce (avoid premium dark soy sauce, which is too dominant for the dish)
2 tbsp keçap manis or other sweet soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
1½ tbsp rice vinegar
¾ cup/15g cilantro, roughly chopped
½ cup/60g roasted and salted peanuts
1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
Place the eggplant in a large bowl with 1½ tsp salt. Mix well, then transfer to a basket steamer (or a colander that can sit over a large saucepan) and set aside.
Fill a large saucepan with enough water to rise 1¼ inches/3cm up the side. Bring to a boil over high heat, then place the steamer (or colander) in the pan. Cover with the lid or seal well with foil, to prevent the steam escaping. Decrease the temperature to medium-high and steam for 12 minutes. Remove and set aside.
Meanwhile, pour 2 tbsp of the peanut oil into a large sauté pan and place over high heat. Add the green onions, ginger, garlic, and chile and fry for 5 minutes, stirring often, until the garlic starts to color. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Pour the remaining 2 tbsp of peanut oil into the pan and add the pork. Fry for 3 minutes, stirring to break up the meat. Add the mirin, soy sauce, keçap manis, sesame oil, rice vinegar, and ½ tsp salt. Cook for 2 minutes, then return the green onion mixture to the pan. Cook for 1 minute, then remove from the heat—there should be plenty of liquid—and stir in ½ cup/10g of the cilantro and the peanuts. Serve with the eggplant, sesame seeds, and remaining ¼ cup of cilantro.
Seeded chicken schnitzel
If you get hooked on this simple supper dish—and I believe the chances are pretty good—make an extra batch of the seed and breadcrumb mix. It keeps well in an airtight container for about 1 month and is really useful to have on hand. It works as well on strips of white fish or sticks of butternut squash as it does on the chicken.
Serves four
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, each piece cut into 3 long strips (1 lb 5 oz/600g)
⅓ cup/50g all-purpose flour
salt and black pepper
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1⅓ cups/80g panko crumbs
6 tbsp/60g white sesame seeds
2 tbsp black sesame seeds (or extra white, if not available)
4½ tbsp/40g sunflower seeds, roughly chopped
1½ tbsp coriander seeds, roughly crushed
1 tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp cayenne pepper
about 7 tbsp/100ml sunflower oil, for frying
1 lemon, quartered, to serve
Place the meat between two bits of plastic wrap, then, one at a time, gently flatten them with a rolling pin; they should end up about ½ inch/1cm thick.
In a medium bowl, mix the flour with ¼ tsp salt and some black pepper.
Put the eggs into a second bowl.
In a third bowl, mix the panko, both sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, coriander, turmeric, cayenne, and ¾ tsp salt.
Dip each bit of chicken into the flour and gently shake off the excess. Now dip it into the egg, then into the seed mix, to coat well. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
Put enough oil into a large frying pan to rise ¼ inch/½ cm up the sides and place over medium heat. Once hot, add the chicken in batches and fry for 5–6 minutes, turning after 2½ minutes, until cooked through and golden brown on both sides. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate while you continue with the remaining batch and serve hot, with the wedges of lemon alongside.
Slow-cooked chicken with a crisp corn crust
This is a wonderful meal on an autumn day, served with a crisp green salad. The slow-cooked chicken is packed full of flavor and the crust—gluten-free, rich, and corny—makes for a welcome (and lighter) change to a heavier mash.
You can make the chicken well in advance if you want to get ahead. It keeps in the fridge for up to 3 days or can be frozen for 1 month. You want it to go into the oven defrosted, though, so it will need thawing before baking. The batter needs to be made fresh and spooned on top of the chicken just before the dish gets baked. It can also be baked a few hours in advance—just warm through for 10 minutes, covered in foil, before serving. I love the combination of the chicken and the corn, but the chicken also works well as it is, served on top of rice, in a wrap, or with a buttery baked potato.
Serves six
3 tbsp olive oil
2 medium-large red onions, thinly sliced (5 cups/500g)
2 garlic cloves, crushed
3 tbsp rose harissa (or 50 percent more or less, depending on variety; see this page)
2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
1 lb 14 oz/850g boneless, skinless chicken thighs (9 or 10 thighs)
salt and black pepper
¾ cup plus 2 tbsp/200ml passata (tomato puree)
5 large tomatoes, quartered (14 oz/400g)
1½ cups/350ml water
1 cup/200g jarred roasted red peppers, drained and cut into ¾-inch/2cm thick rounds
½ oz/15g dark chocolate (70% cacao)
1 cup/20g cilantro, roughly chopped
CORN BATTER
5 tbsp/70g unsalted butter, melted
scant 4 cups/500g corn kernels, fresh or frozen and defrosted (from 4 large ears corn)
3 tbsp whole milk
3 eggs, yolks and whites separated
; salt
Heat the oil in a large sauté pan with a lid over medium-high heat. Add the onions and fry for 8–9 minutes, stirring a few times, until caramelized and soft. Decrease the heat to medium and add the garlic, harissa, paprika, chicken, 1 tsp salt, and a good grind of black pepper. Cook for 5 minutes longer, stirring frequently, then add the tomato puree and tomatoes. Add the water, bring to a boil, then simmer over medium heat, covered, for 30 minutes, stirring every once in a while.
Add the peppers and chocolate and continue to simmer for 35–40 minutes, with the pan now uncovered, stirring frequently, until the sauce thickens and the chicken is falling apart. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro. If you are serving the chicken as it is (as a stew without the batter), it’s ready to serve (or freeze, once it has come to room temperature) at this stage. If you are making the corn crust, spoon the chicken into a ceramic baking dish—one with high sides that measures about 8 x 12 inches/20 x 30cm—and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
To make the batter, pour the butter into a blender with the corn, milk, egg yolks, and ¾ tsp salt. Blitz for a few seconds, to form a rough paste, then spoon into a large bowl. Place the egg whites in a separate clean bowl and whisk to form firm peaks. Fold these gently into the runny corn mixture until just combined, then pour the mix evenly over the chicken.
Bake for 35 minutes, until the top is golden brown. Keep an eye on it after 25 minutes to make sure the top is not taking on too much color; you might need to cover it with foil for the final 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside for 10 minutes before serving.
Trout tartare with browned butter and pistachios
Tartare is all about the quality and freshness of the ingredients. The trout needs to be as fresh as can be, the nuts need to be best quality (always taste them to check for freshness), and the salt flaked. If you can get hold of them, use slivered pistachios—their long shape is very elegant and their vibrant green looks great—but regular shelled pistachios, roughly chopped, are also fine. This is as easy to make as it is impressive to serve.
Serves four as a starter
1 shallot, sliced paper-thin (5 tbsp/30g)
2 lemons: zest finely to get 2 tsp, then juice to get 2½ tbsp
½ tsp granulated sugar
flaked sea salt and black pepper
4 trout fillets, skinless, cut into ½-inch/1½cm pieces (12¾ oz/360g)
1 tsp olive oil
1½ tbsp unsalted butter
½ tsp cumin seeds
2 tbsp slivered pistachios (or roughly chopped pistachios, if you can’t get any), lightly toasted
¼ cup/5g tarragon leaves, finely chopped
Place the shallot in a small bowl with 2 tbsp of the lemon juice, the sugar, ½ tsp flaked salt, and a generous grind of pepper. Using your fingers, massage the sugar and salt into the shallot and set aside.
Put the trout in a separate small bowl along with the oil, lemon zest, the remaining 2 tsp of lemon juice, 1½ tsp flaked salt, and a generous grind of pepper. Stir and set aside for 30 minutes—not longer, or the fish will overcook.
Before serving, put the butter and cumin seeds into a small pan and place over medium heat. Melt the butter gently for about 5 minutes, swirling the pan from time to time, until the butter begins to foam, turn brown, smell nutty, and is caramelized.
Divide the trout among four dishes and top with the shallot (discarding any liquid). Sprinkle with the pistachios and tarragon and drizzle with the cumin seed–browned butter. Finish with a little sprinkle of flaked salt and serve.
Mackerel with pistachio and cardamom salsa
This is a super impressive (but secretly very easy) summer starter. It also works well as a main course. Serve with some herb-filled rice.
Serves four as a starter or two as a main
8 cardamom pods (or ½ teaspoon of ground cardamom)
salt
4 mackerel fillets, skin on and pinbones removed (9¼ oz/260g)
1¼-inch/3cm piece of ginger, peeled (1 oz/25g)
2 tbsp heavy cream
2 tbsp sour cream
¾ cup/15g cilantro, finely chopped
½ cup/10g basil leaves, finely chopped
2½ tbsp shelled pistachios, lightly toasted and roughly chopped
2 limes: finely zest 1 to get 1 tsp, then juice to get 2 tsp; cut the second lime into wedges, to serve
1 green chile, seeded and finely chopped
3 tbsp/50ml sunflower oil
Using the flat side of a large knife, crush the cardamom pods to release the seeds. Transfer the seeds to a pestle and mortar and crush them finely; you should have about ½ tsp. Discard the pods. If starting with ground cardamom you don’t need to do this.
Mix a pinch of cardamom (about ⅛ tsp) with a pinch of salt. Rub this on both sides of the fish and set aside until ready to fry.
Finely grate the ginger, then press the pulp through a sieve (with a bowl underneath); you should get 1 tsp of juice. Discard the pulp and set the liquid aside.
Using a fork (or a small whisk, if you have one), whip the cream until stiff. Switch to using a spatula and fold in the sour cream, ginger juice, and a small pinch of salt, so you have a soft cream. Keep in the fridge until needed.
Combine the cilantro and basil with the pistachios, the remaining ⅛ tsp of cardamom, the lime zest, lime juice, chile, 4 tsp/20ml of the oil, and ⅛ tsp salt. Set aside.
When ready to serve, put the remaining 1 tbsp plus 2 tsp of oil into a large frying pan and place over high heat. Once very hot, add the mackerel fillets, skin side down (the skin should sizzle), and fry for 2 minutes. Press the fillets with a fish spatula as they cook, to prevent the skin from curling up. Once the skin is crisp and golden brown, turn over and fry for 1 minute, until golden brown.
Transfer the mackerel to four individual plates. Spoon one-quarter of the ginger cream and the pistachio and cardamom salsa next to each fillet. Serve hot, with a wedge of lime.
Bridget Jones’s pan-fried salmon with pine nut salsa
This is the dish Patrick Dempsey’s character tells Renée Zellweger’s Bridget Jones that he would have brought her on their imaginary second date in Bridget Jones’s Baby. “From Ottolenghi,” says Dempsey, “delicious and healthy!” And easy, we might add! What sounded like a bit of product placement on our part was in fact no such thing. The recipe didn’t even exist on our menu, so this is a retrospective acknowledgment.
Serves four (halve the recipe if you’re on that second date!)
¾ cup/100g currants
4 salmon fillets, skin on and pinbones removed (1 lb 2 oz/500g)
7 tbsp/100ml olive oil
salt and black pepper
4 medium celery stalks, cut into ½-inch/1cm dice (1¾ cups/180g), leaves removed but kept for garnish
¼ cup/30g pine nuts, roughly chopped
¼ cup/40g capers, plus 2 tbsp of their brine
⅓ cup/40g large green olives, pitted and cut into ½-inch/1cm dice (about 8)
1 good pinch (¼ tsp) of saffron threads, mixed with 1 tbsp hot water
1 cup/20g parsley, roughly chopped
1 lemon: finely zest to get 1 tsp, then juice to get 1 tsp
Cover the currants with boiling water and set aside to soak for 20 minutes while you prep the salmon and make the salsa.
Mix the salmon with 1 tbsp of the oil, a rounded ¼ tsp salt, and a good grind of pepper. Set aside while you make the salsa.
Put 5 tbsp/75ml of the olive oil into a large sauté pan and place on a high heat. Add the celery and pine nuts and fry for 4–5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the nuts begin to brown (don’t take your eyes off them, as they can easily burn). Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the capers and
their brine, the olives, saffron and its water, and a pinch of salt. Drain the currants and add these, along with the parsley, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Set aside.
Put the remaining 1 tbsp of oil into a large frying pan and place over medium-high heat. Once hot, add the salmon fillets, skin side down, and fry for 3 minutes, until the skin is crisp. Decrease the heat to medium, then flip the fillets over and continue to fry for 2–4 minutes (depending on how much you like the salmon cooked). Remove from the pan and set aside.
Arrange the salmon on four plates and spoon on the salsa. Scatter the celery leaves on top.
Roasted trout with tomato, orange, and barberry salsa
This is one of those dishes that is simple and quick enough for midweek but impressive enough to serve to guests you want to make feel special. The recipe easily doubles or triples, so that also helps. To get ahead, make the salsa the day before and keep in the fridge until ready to serve. This dish needs little more than some rice or a potato salad alongside.
Serves two
5¼ oz/150g cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 small orange: finely zest to get 1 tsp, then juice to get 1 tbsp
2 limes: juice 1 to get 1 tbsp, cut the other into wedges to serve
1½ tsp maple syrup (or honey)
1½ tbsp barberries (or currants soaked in 1 tbsp lemon juice)
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