An added bonus arrives in June and July and then again in September and October with the migration of the humpback whales. “The humpbacks come by en route to Queensland, where they calve, and they often move close to land to have a rest,” John added. “On the way back to Antarctica, the whales have their newborns with them, and they’ll stop in our sheltered bays. They’re very active on the surface, breaching and tail slapping.” One of the best places to look for humpbacks is the Cape St. George lighthouse, which dates back to the early 1860s.
There are three campgrounds at Booderee, all with excellent beach access. Green Patch and Bristol Point rest on the calm inner waters of Jervis Bay. “Green Patch is probably our most popular campground,” John said. “It was developed for RVs and camper trailers as well as tents. Bristol Point is nearby and is geared for tent campers. You have to walk your gear in a short way. Cave Beach is on the ocean side of the park. Guests there have to walk about three hundred yards to their campsite. The sites are close to the ocean; you have a sense that you’re camping on a surfing beach.” Green Patch and Bristol Point offer hot showers; Cave Beach campers will have to do with cold showers.
“During my time here at Booderee, I’ve had my eyes opened to the Aboriginal world view and how it connects so closely with the surrounding land,” John opined. “I recall an evening at one of my favorite campsites at Bristol Point. It was a full-moon night silhouetting tall trees, and one of the Koori community members was sharing stories—people describe it as a campfire yarn. She was serving damper (Australian soda bread) with homemade lilly pilly jam (made from berries from a local plant) and talking about growing up on this land as a Koori person, surviving here before modern conveniences. It can be a life-changing experience, even for people who grew up in Australia. Some people from Sydney and Brisbane grew up thinking that the Aboriginal culture didn’t survive, but in this enclave, it has.”
* * *
JOHN HARVEY is visitor service manager at Booderee National Park, where he has worked since 2007. Before coming to Booderee, he was operations manager at Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, and served as a community development officer for the Mutitjulu community.
If You Go
Getting There: Booderee National Park is three hours from Sydney, which is served by many international carriers.
Best Time to Visit: The austral summer—December through March—sees the warmest weather and is the most popular time to visit. Whale watching is at its peak in June and July.
Campgrounds: There are three campgrounds in Booderee. Bristol Point and Cave Beach require campers to walk in a brief distance; Green Patch can accommodate caravans/RVs. Amenities include potable water, flush toilets, showers, a sheltered cooking area with gas barbecues, and wood barbecues. Peak-season campsites range from $12 to $49 (AUD), with a fee of $11 per adult ($5 per child). Reservations are recommended for the summer season, and can be made by calling +61 2 4443 0977 or emailing booderee. [email protected].
Activities: Swimming, wildlife and botanical-garden viewing, hiking, surfing, fishing, cultural experiences.
Australia—Northern Territory
ULURU–KATA TJUTA NATIONAL PARK
RECOMMENDED BY James Baillie
If you were reared off the island, your list of Australian icons is likely to be populated by kangaroos, koalas, the Sydney Opera House, and, if you’re old enough, Crocodile Dundee. But if you’re a native Aussie, you’re more likely to identify with the massive sandstone edifice of Uluru, sometimes called Ayers Rock. “Put simply, Uluru is entirely of Australia and its first people,” said James Baillie. “It is hard to put into words the spirituality of Uluru and the connections that have existed between it and the people for thousands of years. There’s an instinctive link that the Anangu [the Aboriginal people of the area] share with their land: the stories of creation and cultural learning as well as significant sites. The Tjukurpa—which for the Anangu people is both the law and lore of everyday life, defining heritage, relationships, and philosophies—is a deep and complex spiritual system. When you visit Uluru, you’re allowed a vivid glimpse into the Anangu life.”
Uluru rests in the southern section of Australia’s northern territory, near the continent’s geographic center. Reaching a maximum height of 1,143 feet, with a circumference of almost six miles, it stands in jarring contrast to the flat and unforgiving environs of Australia’s outback; it’s now contained within 310,000-acre Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. Archaeological research suggests human habitation in the vicinity of Uluru for more than 10,000 years; the Anangu believe that their people have been here much longer. According to Tjukurpa, nothing existed before the Anangu’s ancestors traveled this land; they formed the trees, the rocks, the water holes; and these features are proof that these acts of creation took place. Beyond its hulking size and spiritual importance, Uluru also draws both humans and other animals for the springs and water holes secreted in its sandstone reaches. Kata Tjuta, a group of thirty-six domed rock formations roughly fifteen miles west of Uluru, also has great significance for the Anangu. It’s considered the center of knowledge.
One of the great thrills of visiting Uluru is the chance to watch the shifting lights and colors upon the sandstone as the sun travels the sky. The play of light is most expressive at sunrise and sunset, and camping in the vicinity of the monolith is the best way to experience this natural spectacle. A conventional camping experience awaits at Ayers Rock Resort; a one-of-a-kind “glamping” (glamor camping) extravaganza is available at Longitude 131°. Here, near the park’s border, fifteen luxury tents sit atop red sand dunes. While technically tents, these abodes rival many fine hotel rooms. Each tent comes outfitted with a king bed (or two twins), crisp white linen, an en-suite bathroom with a rain shower, climate control, and wireless internet, among other amenities. Perhaps the best feature of each tent is floor-to-ceiling windows that showcase the changing faces of Uluru. “Guests often choose to spend a leisurely morning watching the sun rise over Uluru without leaving their tent,” James continued. “It’s an unforgettable experience to lie in bed and witness the day’s awakening as darkness slips like a blanket off the giant monolith, revealing its vibrant, earthy colors. Sundowners [drinks] atop the Longitude 131° Dune House (the tent camp’s social center) is the ideal way to end the day, with three-hundred-and-sixty-degree views of the surroundings, including Uluru, Kata Tjuta, and the Petermann Ranges.”
There are a number of ways to interact with Uluru and Kata Tjuta—and by extension, the Anangu people. For starters, you can visit the cultural center on-site. The two buildings were designed to represent two significant ancestral figures: Kuniya, the python woman, and Liru, the poisonous snake man. While hiking on Uluru is strongly discouraged, a number of walks are available around the landmark. The six-mile base walk lets you take in this immense edifice from all angles, as well as a sample of the region’s ecosystems, from acacia woodlands to grassed claypans. (An early start is encouraged.) A shorter walk takes you into Kantju Gorge, where the Mala people (ancestors of the Anangu) are believed to have camped when they first arrived here. Here, there are excellent examples of Aboriginal rock paintings. Park employees provide some tours of Uluru, as well as Kata Tjuta and Walpa Gorge; many more in-depth interpretive tours are provided by concessionaires. For example, guests of Longitude 131° have the option of visiting Kantju Gorge after other visitors have departed, in the moments before sunset. The wave of silence and the sight of the gorge’s walls blazing with the last light of the day makes this a touchstone experience . . . especially while enjoying sparkling wine and canapés. Sunrise walks are also offered.
A fitting way to cap off your “glamping” experience at Uluru is a starlight dinner. Guests are spirited to a sand dune overlooking both Uluru and Kata Tjuta, where sundowners and hors d’oeuvres can be enjoyed while watching the dance of colors as the sun sets. From the dune, you’re brought to a spot in the desert where torchlit tables are set with white linens. A four-course dinner f
ollows, complemented with a variety of Australian wines. When dinner is finished, the cooking fires and torches are extinguished, and you’re left to marvel at the stunning constellations of the southern sky.
* * *
JAMES BAILLIE is a twenty-year veteran of high-profile Australian luxury-lodge properties. He was the founding managing director for P&O Resorts in 1998 and steered Australia’s first portfolio of premium experiential properties, including Lizard, Bedarra, and Wilson Islands and Silky Oaks Lodge. In 2004, James and his wife, Hayley, opened Capella Lodge on Lord Howe Island, and in 2008 they launched the much-lauded Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island. In 2013, James and Hayley acquired Longitude 131°. Throughout his career, James has actively promoted Australia as an upmarket global destination for discerning travelers.
If You Go
Getting There: Visitors can fly into Yulara from Sydney on Jetstar (866-397-8170; www.jetstar.com) and through Alice Springs on Qantas Air (800-227-4500; www.qantas.com.au).
Best Time to Visit: The weather is cooler in the Aussie fall and winter, between May and September.
Campgrounds: Longitude 131° (+61 02 9918 4355; www.longitude131.com.au) offers upscale “glamping” accommodations. Ayers Rock Resort (+61 8 8957 7001; www.ayersrockresort.com.au) offers a host of camping options, from tents to cabins.
Activities: Hiking, sightseeing, cultural tours.
Cradle Mountain, the icon of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, vividly reflected in Dove Lake.
Australia—Tasmania
CRADLE MOUNTAIN–LAKE ST. CLAIR NATIONAL PARK
RECOMMENDED BY Jeff Woodward
The Australian state of Tasmania rests some 150 miles south of Melbourne across the Bass Strait; it’s sometimes called “the island off the island.” One third larger than Switzerland, Tasmania is considered the most mountainous island of its size in the world. It boasts some of the best-preserved temperate rain forests left on the planet. The coastline is stunning, with myriad coves, bays, beaches, estuaries, and spectacular cliffs. Tasmania is also home to many of Australia’s unique mammals, birds, and alpine plants. (Those whose exposure to Tasmania has been limited to the Tasmanian Devil character from Warner Bros. Looney Tunes cartoons may be surprised to learn that such an animal does indeed exist; it’s a carnivorous marsupial the size of a smallish dog that poses no danger to humans.)
A visit to Cradle Mountain–Lake St. Clair National Park is one of the best ways to experience the natural wonders of Tasmania. “For me, the great appeal of the park is its ruggedness,” said Jeff Woodward. “You can do a morning walk and feel like you’ve gotten a chance to experience a wild place.”
Cradle Mountain–Lake St. Clair National Park occupies 623 square miles in the northwest quadrant of Tasmania. There are two main entrances to the park, one in the south near Lake St. Clair, the other in the north in the shadow of 5,069-foot Cradle Mountain; the north sees considerably more visitors, many of whom are drawn here for the chance to look upon Tasmania’s most iconic mountain. (Chance is the operative word here; one moment the weather might be warm and sunny, the next windy and rainy, or even snowy.) The park is the site of one of the world’s most celebrated hikes, the Overland Track, a forty-mile tramp that runs north to south through the heart of the park. While the five- or six-day hike may be the best way to experience the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, day-trippers have many opportunities to be exposed to Cradle Mountain–Lake St. Clair’s special flora and fauna. “The park’s most iconic walk, by far, is the Dove Lake Circuit,” Jeff continued. “The track is well formed and suitable for people of all ages. The two-hour walk takes you along the shores of Dove Lake and gives you the iconic view of Cradle Mountain. The trail also takes you through a fine example of our boreal forest.” The park’s exquisite flora includes pandani (which resembles pandanus palms, but is a unique species endemic to Tasmania), eucalyptus, and pencil pines; some of the pencil pines can live one thousand years or more.
“Another fantastic walk that’s accessible for most people is the Cradle Valley Boardwalk,” Jeff shared. “It takes you from the Interpretation Center down to Ronny Creek, two and a half or three miles total. There’s not much up and down, and there are some great mountain views. You can continue on to Dove Lake from this walk. If you get a nice day and desire a more rigorous hike, consider a walk to Marion’s Lookout, which is the first good vantage point on the plateau leading to the summit of Cradle Mountain. In fact, you can get some views similar to what you’d get from the summit. If you continue past Marion’s Lookout another twenty minutes, you reach a second overlook that opens up all the views looking south. You’re able to see much of the terrain that would be covered if you were hiking the Overland Track.”
There are no campgrounds in Cradle Mountain–Lake St. Clair National Park; use of shelters along the route of the Overland Track is reserved primarily for through-hikers. Cradle Mountain Tourist Park and Campground rests just north of the park. While drinking water is limited, some sites with hookups are available, and there are cooking shelters, should the skies open up. Another rustic option is one of the cabins at the Waldheim Chalet, which rests roughly three miles inside the park. Originally built in 1912 by Kate and Gustav Weindorfer (early champions of the region’s designation as a national park), the original Waldheim (German for “forest home”) Chalet was pulled down for safety reasons in the late 1970s, but rebuilt using traditional bush carpentry techniques. Though simple, the cabins include heat, basic cooking utensils, and an electric stove. (Showers and flush toilets reside in a separate structure.)
Australia’s endemic fauna is certainly an attraction for anyone visiting the park. Kangaroos will not be encountered, but many other special animals are present. Wombats are common, especially near the start of the track, as are pademelons (another smaller relative of the kangaroo) and Bennett’s wallabies. Tasmanian devils are not common on the trail, but Tasmania’s native cat, the quoll, is very active in the evening, hunting small prey. Though rarely encountered, platypuses are also present in Cradle Mountain–Lake St. Clair. Perhaps the most enigmatic of Australia’s roster of incredible creatures, platypuses appear like a fusion of otter (furry body) and duck (striking bill and webbed feet).
Note: there is a Tasmanian devil sanctuary near the park, Devils@Cradle, where an encounter with this carnivorous marsupial is guaranteed.
* * *
JEFF WOODWARD has been a park ranger at Cradle Mountain–Lake St. Clair National Park for almost four years. He spent his first seven months as an Overland Track ranger, spending eight days at a time walking sections of the Overland Track checking passes, assisting walkers, and performing general maintenance on the infrastructure. For the last three years, he has been based at Cradle Mountain, working as an interpretation ranger/visitor services officer. Prior to working at Cradle, Jeff spent ten years as a tour guide in the Northern Territory. He is a keen bushwalker and climber, and when he’s not “out bush,” enjoys spending time with his wife and two daughters and playing music.
If You Go
Getting There: The nearest major airport to the north entrance of the park is in Launceston, which is served from Sydney and Melbourne by Qantas Air (800-227-4500; www.qantas.com). There is bus service from Launceston via Tassielink (www.tassielink.com.au).
Best Time to Visit: November through May, with the late austral summer and early fall seeing the most stable weather.
Campgrounds: There are no campgrounds in the park, and shelters are reserved for Overland Track hikers. However, there is a campground near the north entrance: Cradle Mountain Tourist Park and Campground (+61 6492 1395; www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au) has tent sites for $25 to $30 (AUD). Simple structures—the Waldheim Chalet cabins—are available for rent within the park (+61 6491 2271); a cabin for four is $95 (AUD).
Activities: Hiking, fishing, wildlife viewing.
The Bladen branch of the Monkey River flows through BFREE en route to the Caribbean.
Bel
ize
BELIZE FOUNDATION FOR RESEARCH AND ENVIRONMENTAL EDUCATION
RECOMMENDED BY Jacob Marlin
Sometimes a camping adventure provides a chance to retreat from the demands of your everyday routine to reflect on your life. For Jacob Marlin, a camping trip to the Maya Mountains of southern Belize completely changed the course of his life.
“Growing up, I was completely taken by the natural world, and loved reptiles and amphibians,” Jacob began. “In college, I studied biology and decided that someday I wanted to dedicate myself to rain forest conservation. During college I spent some time in Belize and fell in love with the country and its people. After college, I took a few different jobs around the States, working with reptiles, trying to pay bills while figuring out how I could pursue my dream. In 1993, I was invited by an explorer friend of mine to join an expedition to the Bladen Nature Reserve to take a reptile/amphibian inventory of the region. [The nearly 100,000-acre reserve, which rests on the southeast flank of the Maya Mountains, is among the most biodiversity-rich areas in Central America; combined with contiguous protected areas, it comprises one of the largest intact swaths of rain forest north of the Amazon.] When we reached the area after four days of bushwhacking, I was blown away. There were undisturbed Mayan ruins, caves full of pottery and abundant wildlife. You had the sense that no humans had been here for a very long time; it was that pristine. After the trip, I felt like I’d found a place where I could get involved.”
Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die Page 4