by Andrew Lock
on Kanchenjunga expedition 242–4, 246–7, 253–4
on Makalu expedition 287
on Nanga Parbat expedition 90–4
Gasherbrums, expedition to 143–55
Gelu, Lhakpa 209, 211
Geneva Spur 37
German Rib route 264
Geshe, Lama 333
Ghondogoro La pass 154
Gilkey, Art 49
Gilkey Memorial 76
glossary 355–60
Godbold, Matt 15–16, 18, 23
Godwin–Austen Glacier 56, 145
Golden Throne 146, 151–2
Gonzalez, Fernando 264, 267–74
Gorkha town 175
GPS use 184–5, 304
Groom, Michael 29, 39–40, 42–6, 189
guided commercial climbing 159–62, 331
Gustafsson, Veikka
on Annapurna expedition 227, 230
on Kanchenjunga expedition 241, 244–5, 255–6
Habeler, Peter 174, 197
Hackler, Berndt 90–3
Hall, Rob xi
Hamilton, David 151, 157
Harrer, Heinrich 85
Haston, Dougal 224
Hawley, Elizabeth 141–2, 236
Heartbreak Hill slope 17
helicopters, used to carry supplies and climbers 243, 255, 284–6
Hemingway, Ernest ix
Herrligkoffer, Karl 86
Herzog, Maurice 223–4, 278
Higgins-Devine, Kelly 291
Hillary Base Camp 286–7
Hillary, Edmund
at Tengboche Monastery 206
author meets 197
Lukla airstrip and 32–3
Makalu expeditions 283–4
quote from 156
Hillary, Peter ix–xi
Hillary Step 169–70
Himalayas
Annapurna expeditions 223–35, 263–74
author leads treks in 157
Cho Oyu expeditions 219–22, 236–7
Dhaulagiri expeditions 96–110
Everest expeditions 28–41, 157–72, 204–18, 317–25
highest mountains in ix
Kanchenjunga expeditions 192–7, 241–55
Lhotse expeditions 188–92
Makalu expeditions 283–92
Manaslu expeditions 175–88
Nanga Parbat expeditions 83–94, 133–43
Pumori expeditions 20–3
Shishapangma expeditions 197–203, 237–9, 258–63, 279–83, 293–313
spirituality of 327
Hinkes, Alan 133–43
Holmgren, Mats 79
Hornbein, Thomas 283
House’s Chimney 59
Hum Khola gorge 226
Hume, David 42–7, 251
ibex, hunting 134
‘Icefall Doctors’ 331–2
illnesses and injuries to author
attempts to avoid stomach trouble 31–2
broken coccyx 222
chest infections 288
from altitude conditions 16–18
gastric ailments 21, 23, 104–5, 208, 246–8
Inurrategi, Alberto 114
Inurrategi, Felix 114, 131
Irvine, Sandy 29
Islamabad, flight to 50–1
Jagged Globe Mount Everest expedition 157–72
Japanese Couloir 27
Jean-Luc (climber) 287
Jensen, Rafael 64, 69, 71, 73–4
Jöchler, Joseph 220
Jomsom airstrip 225
Joos, Norbert 243, 249–50, 256
Joswig, Reinmar
death of 72
injured by falling stone 60–1
on K2 expedition 51, 63–6, 69–70, 72
Julie (girlfriend)
author calls from Makalu summit 291
author rings from Annapurna 230
author’s relations with 276, 294
climbing holiday with 279–81
Jordan holiday with 239
notified of Christian’s death 235
rock climbing skills 223
sends author weather forecasts by SMS 288
K2
author falls on xiii–xvi
expedition to 48–76
height of ix
trekking holiday to 26
Kahiltna Glacier 15, 27
Kala Pattar 208
Kali Gandaki Valley 103, 225
Kaltenbrunner, Gerlinde 187, 241, 244, 255–6
Kanchenjunga expeditions 29, 37, 192–7, 241–55
Kanshung Face 169
Karakorum Highway 51–2, 79–80, 112
Karakorum Ranges
author leads treks in 157
Gasherbrums expedition 143–55
highest mountains in ix
K2 expeditions xiii–xvi, 26, 48–76
Kathmandu
author’s first visit to 20
celebrates fiftieth anniversary of Everest climb 197–8
equipment kept in 177
retirement party in 325–6
Thamel suburb 188, 239
time spent in 275
Khodari town 199–200
Khumbu Glacier 33
Khumbu Icefall
Ben Webster injured on 329
climbing through 35
porters killed at 30, 329, 331–2
training at 159, 163
Khumbu region of Nepal 161
Kiandra resort 10
Kili (Sherpa) 183–4
Killara Venturers (Senior Scouts) Unit 5–6
King, Bob 6
Kinshofer Route 90, 135–6
Kinshofer, Toni 136
Kosciuszko National Park, cross-country skiing in 3–5
Kropp, Goran 79–82, 94
Kukuczka, Jerzy x–xi, 174, 188–9
Kunjerab Pass 52
Kuntner, Christian
fatally injured by icefall 232–4
on Annapurna expedition 228, 230, 232–4
on Gasherbrum expedition 143, 148–50, 152–4
on Kanchenjunga expedition 193–4
Kurtyka, Voytek 84, 88, 145
Lacadelli, Lino 50
Lachenal, Luis 223
Lama, Sherpa Pasang Dawa 220
Langtang Valley 282
Larch, Josef 144
Laursen, Brian 101–5, 108
Lhotse expedition 188–92
Lhotse Face 36–7, 40, 164–5
Lock, Andrew (author) see also illnesses and injuries to author; Summit 8000 project
Adventurer of the Year award 313
at school 2, 5
breaks up with Julie 294
buried by avalanche 102–3
casual jobs held by 6
completes Summit 8000 project 311–12
disaster-management degree 133, 194
falls on K2 xiii–xvi
joins Australian Public Service 258–9
leaves police force 175
leaves public service 276–8
marries Joanne 30–1
media interest in 156
Mount Everest medal awarded to 197–8
navigational skills 10–11
Order of Australia award 321
organisations represented by 319, 329
reasons for climbing 315–16
relations with father 2, 5
retires from 8000-metre climbing 325
writes to Nepalese authorities 334
Lock, David (brother) 1, 5, 321
Lock, Don (father) 1–2, 321
Lock, Joanne (wife) 26, 30–1, 83
Lock, Margaret (mother) 1–2, 5, 321
Lock, Stewart (brother) 1, 321
Loretan, Erhard x–xi
Louise (Neil Ward’s girlfriend) 294
Luchsinger, Fritz 188
Luis (climber) 211–14
Lukla village
airstrip in 32–3
author bluffs way on to flight out of 170–1
helicopter flights from 192, 285
trek from to Lhotse Base Camp 189
Lynda (girlfriend
) 133
Macartney-Snape, Tim 11–12
Mace, Charley 225, 228, 231
Macedonian community in Australia, expedition sponsored by 41
Macfarlane, Robert 20, 204
Macquarie Island 143
Magnone, Guido 284
Makalu expedition 283–92
Mallory, George
Everest expeditions 29–30, 220
quotes from ix–x, 293
Manaslu expedition 175–88
Maoist insurgency in Nepal 179, 242
Marco (climber) 232
Matt (expedition doctor) 208, 213
Mazeno Ridge 87–8
McFarlane, Jim 284
McIlvride, David 206
meals at high altitudes 245–6, 287–8
Mendoza town 25–6
Merrelli, Mario 193, 228, 230, 237
Messner, Gunther 86
Messner, Reinhold
attempts to climb all 8000-metre peaks 173–4
climbs Everest without oxygen 197
loses climbing partners 176
Nanga Parbat expeditions 86
techniques developed by x–xi
Metzger, Peter
dies on K2 xvi
loses sleeping bag 62–3
on K2 expedition 51, 53, 68, 71–3
Milford Track walking 9–10
Miristi Khola gorge 227
Mondinelli, Silvio
on Annapurna expedition 228, 230–1, 233
on Cho Oyu expedition 237
on Kanchenjunga expedition 193
Moravec, Fritz 144
Mortimer, Greg 11–12
Mount Arapiles 18
Mount Cook National Park, climbing in 13–14
Mount Darwin 13–14
Mount Everest see Everest
Mount McKinley
expeditions to 14–18, 26–8, 61
height of ix
Mountain Madness 151
Mr Puniverse competition 109
Mummery, Albert 85, 135
Mummery Rib route 135
Myagdi Kola Valley 97
Nanda Devi expeditions 283
Nanga Parbat
expeditions to 80, 83–94, 133–43
location of 52
Nangpa La 220–1
navigational skills 10–11
Nepal see also Himalayas
celebrates fiftieth anniversary of Everest climb 197–8
climbing records kept by government of 171–2, 236–7
customs inspections in 31
expedition meals in 38
fees charged for climbing in 157, 160–1
Maoist insurgency in 179
Ministry of Tourism 101
need to regulate climbing in 332–3
no restriction placed on commercial clients by 331
paperwork required by 32
porter problems in 284–6
Sherpas killed by icefall in 329–30, 333–4
teahouses in 282–3
trekking holidays in 329–30
New South Wales Police Force 6–8, 133, 175
New Zealand
author learns to climb in 160
Cho Oyu expedition from 221–2
Milford Track walking 9–10
Mount Cook National Park 13
Niclevicz, Waldemar 143, 148–9, 152, 154
Norgay, Tenzing 41
North America
Canadian climbing 206
Mount McKinley expeditions 14–18, 26–8, 61
Norwegian–English team lost on Mount Pumori 22
Noyce, Wilfred 313
Nyalam town 201, 220, 279
Oiarzabal, Juanito 297
oxygen use
on Everest 162, 166, 212–16
on Makalu 290–1
Paiju wood 55–6
Pakistan see also Karakorum Ranges
border defences 147
Broad Peak expeditions 79–83, 96, 110–31
cheese purchased from shepherds 87–8
equipment thefts in 82
Gasherbrums expedition 143–55
highway blocked by villagers in 112–13
hiring porters in 53–4, 57–8
K2 expedition 48–76
limits number of expeditions 111
loses Cricket World Cup to Australia 147–8
Nanga Parbat expeditions 83–94, 133–43
Pamir ranges 23–4
Park Young-Seok 136, 154
Parker, Mick 203
Pasaban, Edurne 264
Pauner, Carlos 193, 196–7, 203
Payne, Roger 61, 75, 77
Pezet, Mike 18
Phewa Lake 225
POISK oxygen system 43
police work by author 6–8, 133, 175
Polish Glacier route up Aconagua 24–5
Pomme d’Or 206
Ponce de Leon, Hector
fails to find Andres Delgado on Changabang 218
fails to get permission to climb Shishapangma 293
on Annapurna expedition 280, 287–9, 291–3
on Everest expedition 205–6, 209–10, 213, 215–16
on K2 expeditions 221, 240
porters, ‘strike’ by 114
Prem (cook) 108–9
puja ceremonies
at Dhaulagiri 98
at Tengboche Monastery 206–7
flags blessed at 291
for Everest expeditions 158
offering to dead Sherpas 333–4
spirituality of 21
Pumori expedition 20–3
Pustelnik, Piotr 26–7, 165
Radek (climber) 290–1
Raman, Sher 136, 141
Rashid, Asif 51, 76
Redfern Police Station 7–8
Reiss, Ernst 188
Rheinberger, Michael 44, 47, 222
Rogerson, Matt 100–10
Romano’s Hotel, Wagga Wagga 11
Routeburn Track 9–10
running belay technique 13–14
Rupal Face 86
Russian Kanchenjunga expedition 37
Sama Goan village 180–2
Sam’s Bar, Kathmandu, retirement party in 325–6
Saunders, Victor 84
Schauer, Robert 84
Schmidt, Denali 240
Schmidt, Marty 221, 240
Schmuck, Marcus 80
Scott, Doug
on Nanga Parbat expedition 84, 88
quote from 258
Shishapangma climbed by 199
techniques developed by x
Scouting movement, author addresses Jamboree 318–19
Seven Summits x, 24
Seven Years in Tibet 85
Shahid, Captain 115–17, 130
Sharif, Nawak 111
Sherpa, Gyaltsen Norbu 284
Sherpa, Mingma Tsiri 209
sherpas
increased involvement in guiding 330–3
killed by icefall on Everest 329–30, 333
Shigas River 144
Shigatse Prefecture 201
Shishapangma expeditions
author’s first attempt 198–203
routes taken by 314–15
with Inigo de Pineda 237–9
with Julie 279–83
with Neil Ward 258–63, 293–313
Siachen Glacier 147
Sickle, The 229
siege style climbing 33–4, 58, 163
Sir David Martin Foundation 319
Skardu town 51–3, 87, 112–14, 144
Skil Brum 80
Skinner, Todd 219
Snowy Mountains skiing trips 3–5, 10
South American holidays 26, 176
South Col of Everest 37, 45–6, 166–7, 189
South Ridge of Broad Peak 110, 115–19
South Summit of Everest 167, 169
Squires, Mark 29–30, 39–40
Stephan (climber) 232
Stoly (Manasul climber) 179, 181–2
Summit 8000 project
author’s doubts in 276–7
; author’s goals for 174–5
completion of 303, 311
media interest in 313–14
Swarbrick, Mike 225
Sydney Rock Climbing Club 12
Tabei, Junko 197
Tajikstan, Pik Korzhenevskaya in 23–4
Takeuchi, Hirotaka 241, 244, 255–7
Talkeetna, Alaska 15, 17
Tamang people 175
Tarashing village 87
Tashi Tenzing 41–5
Tasmania, hiking trips in 10
teahouses in Nepal 282–3
Tengboche Monastery 206–7
Terray, Lionel ix, 95, 284
Thai Airways, sponsorship by 98
The Balcony 167, 169, 212–14
The Climb 77
The Sickle 229
Thyanboche monastery 158
Tibet see also Himalayas
China closes access to mountains in 281–2
Everest expeditions from 317–25
Everest on border of 29
Shishapangma expeditions 198–203, 279–83, 293–313
village life in 180
Tibet: Murder in the Snow 221
Tichy, Herbert 220
Tingri town 220
Todorovski, Dimitar 41, 43–5
Tom (climber) 212–13, 216
tom yum soup 287–8
TopOut oxygen mask 212–16
Trihey, Lucas 13–14
Troillet, Jean x
Tsang Province 201
Tshering, Dawa 183–4
Tshering, Lobsang 211
Twin Otter aircraft 171
Ultimate Survival: Everest 217
United States see North America
Unsoeld, Nanda Devi 283
Unsoeld, Willi 283
Urdukas campsite 57
Urubko, Denis 287
Vallejo, Ivan 243, 264, 267–74
Viesturs, Ed 224–5, 227, 230
Vilaca, Frank 206–8
Wagga Wagga, author transfers to 9
Ward, Neil
on Makalu expeditions 287–9, 292
on Shishapangma expeditions 259–63, 280, 294, 297, 299–312
Ward, William Arthur 1
Waterman, Jonathan 241
Webster, Ben 204–6, 209, 216–17, 225
Western Arthur Ranges 10
Western Cwm of Everest 36, 189, 334
Whetu, Mark 222
Whillans, Don 224
Whymper, Edward 48
Wielicki, Krzysztof 90
Wiessner, Fritz 49
Wilkins, Brian 284
Willenpart, Hans 144
Wintersteller, Fritz 80
Wood, Mike 41
yak-butter tea 180
Yanco Agricultural College 6
Yellow Band 37
Yeti aircraft 96–7
Zaharias, Zac 97, 99–110, 221
Zhangmu 200
zoe (yak/cow cross), towel eaten by 82–3
SPONSORS
I HAVE BEEN very fortunate to have been supported in my expeditioning for many years by a range of corporate and private individuals, some on many occasions. I know that this list will not be complete and I apologise to any whom I’ve left off. I certainly needed and appreciated your support.
I would particularly like to recognise and thank:
Personal sponsors