Shanti Yoga Bag
Finished bag: 29˝ × 7˝ diameter
Finished water bottle carrier: 3½˝ wide × 32˝ long with strap
Finished magnolia flower: Large: 8½˝ wide × 4˝ tall, Small: 5¼˝ wide × 2˝ tall
I love bags (I mean, really—who doesn’t?) and I love making bags. For me, the act of cajoling rectangles, squares, and circles into a bag is an act of alchemy. The Shanti Yoga Bag is a great foray into the world of bag making; just think of all the extra credit you’ll get for having made it yourself! Highlighted by its kraft-tex accents, lustrous eyelets, and a zippered pocket, this bag includes goiser topstitching, a truly wonderful way to incorporate beefy stitching into your work with your home sewing machine. (And you thought that was just for professionals!) The Shanti Yoga Bag will have you delving into undiscovered and unique sewing techniques.
SHANTI YOGA BAG
Finished bag: 29˝ × 7˝ diameter
MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES
Yardage is based on 40˝-wide fabric. Adjust the amounts if using fabrics of varying widths.
NOTE
If you are using unwashed kraft-tex, wash it a few times with like-colored articles—the more times you wash it, the softer it becomes. Be sure to wash it with other items to help agitate the kraft-tex.
MATERIALS
kraft-tex (by C&T Publishing): 1 roll
Denim or heavyweight fabric: 1 yard
Cotton fabric: 1 yard for lining and pocket
HARDWARE
7½˝ zipper
Extra-large eyelets, ˝ inner diameter or larger: 8
D-rings or rectangle rings, 1¼˝ inner width: 4
TOOLS
Wash-away tape (I use Collins Wash Away Wonder Tape.)
Stiletto
Fine-point marker (I use Pigma Micron pens—the ink doesn’t bleed.)
Mini fabric clips (I use Clover Wonder Clips.)
1˝ (25 mm) bias tape maker (I use the Clover Bias Tape Maker.)
CUTTING
kraft-tex
• Make a template of the bottom circle pattern (sheet P1).
• Cut 1 piece 1¼˝ × 40˝ for the bag strap.
• Cut 1 piece 3¾˝ × 23˝ for the lower exterior band.
• Cut 2 pieces 3½˝ × 23˝ for the upper exterior and upper lining bands.
• Cut 1 piece 2½˝ × 9˝ for the zipper-pocket facing.
• Cut 1 bottom circle for the exterior bottom.
• Cut 1 piece 1¼˝ × 7½˝ for the lower D-ring keeper.
• Cut 1 piece 1¼˝ × 4½˝ for the upper D-ring keeper.
Denim or heavyweight fabric
• Cut 1 piece 23˝ × 23˝ for the exterior body.
• Cut 1 piece 2½˝ × 40˝ for the bag strap.
• Cut 1 piece 1⅞˝ × 40˝ for the drawcord.
Cotton fabric
• Cut 1 piece 23˝ × 26˝ for the lining body.
• Cut 1 piece 11˝ × 20˝ for the pocket.
• Cut 1 bottom circle for the lining bottom.
Assembly Instructions
Use a ½˝ seam allowance unless otherwise noted, backstitching at all beginning and ending stitches. Suggested stitch length is 2.5 mm or longer.
Exterior Zippered Pocket with Facing
1. On the wrong side of the exterior body, measure 3¾˝ down from the top edge and draw a rectangle ½˝ tall by 8˝ long that is centered side to side.
2. Place the pocket, right side down, on the right side of the exterior body, with a narrow edge centered at the top. Pin in place.
3. Sew along the drawn the rectangle, overlapping where you began by about ½˝ for security.
4. Cut through the middle of the rectangle to within ¼˝ from each end. Cut on a diagonal to each corner, clipping to but not through the stitches at each corner of the rectangle.
5. Pull the pocket to the inside through this opening and press the rectangle opening into place.
6. Mark and cut the zipper opening in the kraft-tex zipper-pocket facing.
7. Place wash-away tape on both long edges of the right side of the zipper tape.
8. Remove the backing from the wash-away tape and place the kraft-tex zipper-pocket facing so the zipper is centered in the opening. If the zipper tape extends beyond the ends of the zipper-pocket facing, trim the zipper tape so that the zipper-pocket facing hides it.
9. Sew the zipper to the kraft-tex zipper-pocket facing by topstitching ⅛˝ from the inner edge.
NOTE
Natural kraft-tex is shown in these photos. You may use any color for your bag.
10. Place wash-away tape on both long edges of the wrong side of the kraft-tex zipper facing, about ¼˝ in from the edges.
11. Remove the backing from the wash-away tape and place the zipper on the exterior body so it is centered over the rectangle opening.
12. Topstitch ⅛˝ inside the outer edge of the kraft-tex zipper facing. To learn how to create the goiser topstitching, see my video: The Goiser Stitch by Machine (sewpbox.com/stitchery-instruction).
13. Fold the lower edge of the pocket up to match the top edge, and sew both sides closed. Sew the top edge of the pocket to the bag no more than ¼˝ from the top edge. The upper exterior band will cover this stitching.
Yoga Bag Exterior
NOTE
The lower exterior band is ¼˝ taller than the upper bands to include the ¼˝ seam allowance at the bottom.
1. On the wrong side of the upper exterior band, draw a line ½˝ from the lower edge.
2. Place wash-away tape next to the drawn line, between the drawn line and the edge of the kraft-tex.
3. On the right side of the band, measure and place the eyelet placement markings.
4. On the wrong side of the lower exterior band, draw a line ½˝ from the upper edge.
5. Place wash-away tape next to the drawn line, between the drawn line and the edge of the kraft-tex.
6. Measure and place the alignment markings on the wrong side of the lower band’s lower edge.
7. Remove the backing from the wash-away tape on the upper exterior band. Place it over the edge of the exterior bag, matching the drawn line with the top edge.
8. Topstitch ⅛˝ from the edge of the kraft-tex where it overlaps the yoga bag body.
9. Remove the backing from the wash-away tape on the lower exterior band, and match up the drawn line with the bottom edge of the exterior of the yoga bag body.
10. Topstitch ⅛˝ from the edge of the kraft-tex where it overlaps the yoga bag body.
11. Bring the sides right sides together and sew the side seam. Press the seam allowance open. Leave the bag inside out.
D-Ring Keepers
1. Place one end of the 1¼˝ × 7½˝ lower D-ring keeper so that it is flush with the lower band and centered on the side seam of the yoga bag. Stitch ⅛˝ from the edge to hold the strap in place.
2. Fold the other end of the keeper down 2˝ toward the bottom of the bag. Slip 2 D-rings into this fold and place the keeper flat against the lower band. Stitch the keeper to the lower band with 2 rows of stitching placed ½˝ apart.
3. Fold the 1¼˝ × 4½˝ upper D-ring keeper in half over 2 D-rings. Slide one end of the keeper down ¼˝ and then fold both layers down ½˝. Turn the keeper over and place this fold at the topstitching line on the lower edge of the upper band, centered over the bag’s side seam. Stitch ⅛˝ from the fold and again ⅜˝ away from the first stitching.
NOTE
Instead of using just kraft-tex for the D-ring keepers, you could use denim and kraft-tex in the same manner as the shoulder strap (see Shoulder Strap and Drawcord.
tip
Now it’s time to sew the bottom of the bag into place. kraft-tex lends itself really well to stra
ight-line sewing. Working with a circular piece can be a bit of a challenge.
•Spritz the kraft-tex circle and the bottom kraft-tex panel with a bit of water. Moisture makes kraft-tex a bit more pliable.
•Stitch slowly, adjusting the seam alignment as needed.
•Use a stiletto to help nudge the kraft-tex into place.
4. Place the kraft-tex bottom circle right sides together with the lower edge of the bag, aligning the placement marks on the lower band with the placement marks on the circle. Mini fabric clips work well for holding the pieces together. Beginning behind the D-ring keeper, sew across the keeper using a ¼˝ seam allowance. Continue sewing around the circle. Once you reach the beginning of your stitches, adjust your needle position to align with the previously stitched holes, continue stitching across the keeper, and backstitch. This second row of stitching will help secure the keeper to the bag without adding more holes to the kraft-tex.
5. Carefully turn the yoga bag right side out.
Yoga Bag Lining
1. Repeat Yoga Bag Exterior, Steps 1, 2, and 6–8 to add the upper lining band to the lining body and to add alignment markings to the lining body’s lower edge.
NOTE
Before sewing the side seam of the lining, it is important to discuss the pattern and the peculiarities of placing a bag lining inside of a bag. You may have noticed that both the exterior and lining pieces are cut the same width. When you place a lining into a bag, it will be smaller than the exterior since it is inside of another circumference. It is very difficult, however, to determine what this difference will be. Even the slightest difference in the side seam allowance will alter the interior circumference. But there’s an easy way to identify how large the lining should be at the top of the bag. See the following instructions.
2. Place the lining inside the exterior bag, just as if it were completed. Align the upper
edges.
3. Clip the upper edge of the kraft-tex lining band to the kraft-tex exterior band. Once you complete the circle, there will be an overlap where the side seams meet up.
4. Measure this overlap. Divide the overlap by 2, and you have your seam allowance for this top portion of the seam. It will likely be more than ½˝—the seam allowance built into the side seam of the pattern. What you’ll do is simply sew with the seam allowance you determined, and gradually return to a ½˝ seam as you near the bottom of the bag. That’s it!
5. Remove the lining from the bag and bring the sides right sides together. Sew the side seam. Press the seam allowance open.
6. Place the lining bottom circle right sides together with the lining, matching the placement marks on the lining with the placement marks on the circle. You’ll have better success sewing the circle to the bag if you place the circle on the bottom next to the feed dogs. There is more bias, which equals more stretch, with the circle. Using a ¼˝ seam allowance, sew the circle to the lining. Leave it wrong side out.
Putting It All Together
1. Place the lining inside the exterior bag.
2. Align the side seams and clip together.
3. Topstitch the exterior to the lining kraft-tex panel ⅛˝ from the upper edge.
Eyelets
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, install the eyelets using the placement guides. It’s always a good idea to practice installing 1 or 2 eyelets. Be sure to use 2 layers of kraft-tex scraps so that you are testing the same material.
1. Using the eyelet placement guides for reference, punch or cut a hole through both the exterior and lining layers of the upper kraft-tex bands equal to the size of the inner diameter of the eyelet.
2. Push the eyelet through the hole from the exterior to the lining.
Eyelet on exterior (left) and eyelet on lining side (right)
3. Place the flat part of the eyelet onto the anvil.
4. Place a washer onto the protrusion of the eyelet from the lining side.
5. Place the setter on top of the washer. Hammer forcefully to set the eyelet.
Shoulder Strap and Drawcord
1. To prepare the bag strap, fold the 2½˝ × 40˝ bag strap in half lengthwise and press lightly. Unfold; then fold each edge to the center and press firmly.
2. Align the folded bag strap with the 1¼˝ × 40˝ kraft-tex bag strap and topstitch ⅛˝ from both edges. A bit of the fabric will likely peek out from the edge—let it.
3. Even though the 1⅞˝ × 40˝ drawcord piece isn’t cut on the bias, we can use a 1˝ (25 mm) bias binder to fold the raw edges of the fabric together. A stiletto can help to feed in the beginning edge.
4. Press the folded edges.
5. Cut a 4˝ piece from the pressed drawcord and topstitch the edges.
6. Fold in half, right sides together, and sew the ends together using a ¼˝ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open.
7. Turn right side out.
8. Center the seam and sew on the seam through all layers.
9. Bring the folded edges of the pressed drawcord from Step 4 together and topstitch ⅛˝ from the edge to close.
10. Weave the drawcord through the eyelets.
11. Thread the ends of the drawcord through the drawcord keeper and knot the ends.
12. Bring the shoulder strap up through the 2 D-rings at one end of the bag. Turn the strap back and weave through the lower ring; tighten. Repeat for the other end.
NOTE
The photos above show the White kraft-tex strap that I used on the finished bag.
Final Flourish
Cut a piece of kraft-tex ¼˝ × 12˝. Loop this through the opening of the zipper pull; then loop the tails through the loop, pulling snug to tighten. Cut the ends at an angle.
WATER BOTTLE CARRIER
Finished water bottle carrier: 3½˝ wide × 32˝ long with strap
MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES
MATERIALS
kraft-tex (by C&T Publishing): 1 roll
40˝-wide fabric: ⅓ yard
Iron-on double-sided adhesive: 1½ yards (I like HeatnBond Lite.)
HARDWARE
D-rings, 1˝ inner width: 2
NOTE
•If you are using unwashed kraft-tex, wash it a few times with like-colored articles—the more times you wash it, the softer it becomes. Be sure to wash it with other items to help agitate the kraft-tex.
•You can get 3 water bottle carriers from a 19½˝ × 50˝ piece of kraft-tex with careful placement.
•You can cut 5 bottle carrier pieces from the 10˝ × 50˝ piece of HeatnBond Lite with careful placement. You need 2 bottle carrier pieces per water bottle carrier.
TOOLS
Pigma Micron pen for transferring pattern to paper side of HeatnBond Lite (I prefer Micron pens to permanent markers, as Micron pens do not bleed.)
Liquid seam sealant
(Fray Block or Fray Check)
Optional: Pinking shears
Optional (for brogue punching):
Clover Hera Marker (This tool doesn’t leave a residue like chalk or other marking mediums.)
Pound board and maul
Brogue Punch
(available from Bonney & Wills School of Shoemaking & Design, Ashland, Oregon: shoemaking.com)
tip
If using a twill (such as denim) and pinking the edges of the straps, cut the fabric on the cross grain. The pinking will fray less if done in this manner. However, either direction will work.
CUTTING
Iron-on double-sided adhesive
• Trace 2 water bottle carrier pieces (pattern sheet P1) onto the paper side of the iron-on double-sided adhesive.
• Fuse the iron-on double-sided adhesive to the wrong side of the kraft-tex; leave the protective paper in place. Cut out the water bottle pieces.
Assembly Instructions
Use a ½˝ seam allowance unless otherwise noted, backstitching at all beginning and ending stitches. Suggested stitch length is 2.5 mm or longer.
Optional Brogue Punching
1. Scribe a lin
e with a Hera Marker ¼˝ along the length of each side of the strap, stopping ½˝ before each end.
2. Using this line as a guide, use a brogue punch to create the brogue pattern.
NOTE
The protective paper may start to pull away while punching. Don’t worry about this.
Construction
1. Remove the paper backing from the iron-on double-sided adhesive.
2. Place the prepared kraft-tex pattern pieces on the wrong side of the fabric rectangles. Fuse.
3. To prevent the fabric edges from fraying, I suggest 2 options:
Option 1: Before cutting the fabric, run a bead of liquid seam sealant on the fabric next to the kraft-tex pattern to control fabric fray. Once the sealant has dried, use the kraft-tex pattern as a guide to cut away the excess fabric so the edges of the fabric are trimmed to the same size as the kraft-tex.
Option 2: You may choose not to use a sealant on the strap portion and cut the edges with pinking shears. This will allow the pinked edges to “bloom.” Before cutting the fabric, run a bead of liquid seam sealant next to the kraft-tex pattern on the fabric, only along the sides and lower portion of the bottle carrier. Once the sealant has dried, use the kraft-tex pattern as a guide to cut away the excess fabric at the sides and bottom of the bottle carrier. With pinking shears, trim the excess fabric from the straps so that the “valley” of the pink just grazes the edge of the kraft-tex. The pinking will “bloom”—the fabric will continue to fray, but only to the bottom of the pink. Pinking the edge of the fabric not only provides a decorative touch but will also make the strap more comfortable on the shoulder.
Shanti Yoga Bag Pattern Page 1