Line drying is one of those things we can do that doesn’t rely on electricity – it’s just you and the pegs.
Hanging laundry is a wonderful thing to do. You might think of it as yet another chore but it allows you to take advantage of the outdoors, the fresh air and the sunshine. You are using the natural elements of your environment to help keep your clothes clean. It’s one of those things we can do that doesn’t rely on electricity – it’s just you and the pegs.
If you haven’t tried line drying yet, give it a go. Your clothes and household linens will last longer as they aren’t subjected to the heat and constant tumbling action of a dryer. Yes, it does take more effort on your part to do it, but these gentle exercises are good for all of us. Hanging laundry is one of those little things that gives you the chance slow down and to be mindful of the many simple things you can do at home. If you can’t line dry your clothes, choose an energy-efficient tumble dryer and look for every opportunity to dry clothes in the bathroom or on your balcony.
The rest of the house
I have explained how to clean the kitchen, bathroom and laundry, but what about the rest of the house?
All of us need to clean the floors, but how often you do that depends on the time you have and whether you have children or pets. Common sense will probably tap you on the shoulder if you don’t have a regular cleaning routine; the trick is to work out a strategy that suits you and is easy and effective. I find that doing a deep clean with the vacuum cleaner once a week and sweeping the rest of the time works well for us. We have a dog but no children. If you’re a working couple, you may be fine with the vacuum cleaning once a month; if you’re a stay-at-home mum with small children, you may want to vacuum every day.
Here are some cleaning tips and suggestions for people with the time and inclination:
About once a month, clean the skirting boards while you’re vacuuming, and dust when you feel like it. If you’re on a main highway, you’ll need to do it more frequently.
Another once-a-month task is to clean around light switches and door handles with your all-purpose spray and a clean rag. You can also wipe television and computer screens once a month with a splash of vinegar on a clean dry rag.
Every three months, vacuum the lounge suite thoroughly. Remove the cushions and vacuum the crevices underneath.
Spring cleaning
Spring cleaning is traditionally done when the weather starts to warm up again after winter, but it can be done at any time of the year. Depending on how much time you have, you can do all the inside chores in one day, do one room at a time or put aside thirty minutes a day to work through what you need to do.
Plan and make a list of what you intend to do. Everyone’s list will be different but most of us will have to clean windows, doors, screens and shutters. Some of us will need to wash curtains. Other common tasks will include:
changing seasonal clothes; washing and storing what you won’t be wearing for the next few months, including warm jumpers, gloves, hats and scarves
changing bedding; washing and storing warm quilts, doonas and blankets
turning the mattresses over and around
washing pillows, pillowcases and cushion covers, and hanging them in the sun to dry
vacuuming the house thoroughly, moving the furniture and white goods
taking the rugs and mats outside for a thorough shaking, and letting them sit over a fence for a while in the sun (facedown to minimise fading)
cleaning and organising the fridge, pantry and stockpile
removing everything from the kitchen benches and cleaning thoroughly
going through anything you accumulate throughout the year, like magazines, and getting rid of the old ones
cleaning and organising your bathroom cupboard, safely disposing of old medications (the local pharmacy will probably take them back)
washing the shower curtain
soaking hair brushes and combs in a weak solution of chloride bleach or peroxide
cleaning out any cupboard that needs it
cleaning ceiling fans, air conditioners and fireplaces
getting up on the roof and cleaning out the gutters, skylights and solar panels, and checking for cracks or damage
checking and maintaining the lawnmower and other garden tools.
You can get by with very little when it comes to showering and staying clean. A good homemade vegetable oil soap and some bicarb for shampoo and deodorant will be fine. Loofahs and a thick terry face cloth are excellent simple aids in the shower. However, many people like to use more than the basics so here are some recipes to try.
Cold-processed soap
I’m sure many of you are wondering, ‘Why make soap when I can buy it cheaply at the supermarket?’ Commercial soap is often made with tallow (animal fat), contains synthetic fragrance and dye and retains almost no glycerin. (Glycerin is a natural emollient that helps with the lather and moisturises the skin. The makers of commercial soap extract the glycerin and sell it as a separate product, as it’s more valuable than the soap. Then they add chemicals to make the soap lather. Crazy.) My cold-processed soap is made with vegetable oils and when it is made and cured, it contains no harsh chemicals or dyes.
Making your own soap allows you to add whatever you want to add. If you want a plain and pure soap, as I do, you can have that, or you can start with the plain soap and add colour, herbs and fragrance. The choice is yours.
I have to start with a warning. If you are new to soap making, it should not be attempted when children or animals are around. The caustic soda burns, and if you spill it on skin you need to wash it off immediately under running water or vinegar. If you drop it on the floor or bench top, wipe it up straight away as it will burn the surface. When you mix caustic soda with water, even though it’s not on the stove it will heat up considerably and will burn if you drop any on yourself or splash it in your eyes. This process will also create fumes. Make sure you mix caustic soda in a well-ventilated room. Many soap makers wear latex gloves, goggles and a mask. Please use these safeguards while you’re learning to make soap. When you’re experienced, you might be able to dispense with them.
Are you still with me after that warning? Soap making is a simple process that is made more difficult by using caustic soda. A form of caustic soda was originally taken from wood ash, but now caustic soda is made commercially by running an electric current through a salt solution. There is absolutely no way to make soap from scratch without using caustic soda. Even the ‘natural soap’ sold in shops is made using caustic soda. But the process of soap making – saponification – neutralises the caustic soda and by the time the soap is cured, no caustic soda remains in the soap.
If you make sure you’re alone when making soap, if you have all your ingredients measured out and have a clean and clear work area, you shouldn’t have any problems. The entire process should take about thirty minutes.
The recipe may change every time you make soap but the method of making it remains the same. If you do use a new recipe, check it with an online soap calculator first to make sure you have the correct ratio of caustic soda to water and oils.
PURE SOAP RECIPE
Makes 12 big blocks
This is a beautiful soap that is easy to make. I wash my hair with this soap and it feels like I’ve used the best shampoo. See the soap-making tutorial on my blog for photos of each stage of the process. Most soap ingredients must be measured by weight, not volume. The best way to mix your soap is to use a stick blender. It will get the job done quickly and, as the mixing happens under the surface, there is no splashing. Electric hand beaters will splash too much.
Ingredients
460 g olive oil
600 g rice bran oil
440 g coconut oil
570 ml rainwater, or tap water that has stood in a container for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate off
230 g caustic soda
essential or fragrant oil (optional)
Equip
ment
newspaper to cover your work area
soap moulds, a resin cake form, clean milk cartons or some other non-aluminium receptacle that will shape the soap
scales
stainless steel or cast-iron saucepan (not aluminium – the caustic soda will ruin aluminium)
measuring jug – for measuring water (it’s okay to measure the water by volume)
small bowl (not aluminium)
milk or candy thermometer
stick blender
Method
Open windows and doors to allow good ventilation, and lay out the newspaper over your work area.
Grease your moulds (I use cooking spray) and put on your safety gear.
Weigh all your oils and place them in the saucepan. Measure out the water and leave it in your measuring jug. Measure out the caustic soda into a small bowl.
Clip the thermometer onto the side of the saucepan and place on low heat on the stove. Slowly heat the oils to 50°C.
Carefully pour the caustic soda into the measuring jug with the water, and stir gently until fully dissolved. Stand back a bit as there will be fumes coming from this mix as it heats up.
You need to have the oil at 45–50°C and the caustic soda at 45–50°C. When they’re the same temperature, pour the caustic soda water into the oils, being careful to avoid splashing it. Mix for about 5–10 minutes with your stick blender, making sure the blender doesn’t overheat. The surface of the mixture should be smooth.
When slight ripples form on the surface and remain there, stop mixing. This is the sign you look for that the soap has become stable and is ready to be poured into a mould. The mix should be thick, but pourable. This is called ‘trace’, and the caustic soda is almost gone by this point.
If you’re going to add fragrance, add it when you reach trace and give it a good mix. If you want to colour your soap you need to buy soap dye or use natural powders like turmeric, cinnamon or cocoa. Food colouring is not suitable because it’s unstable.
Pour the mixture into the greased mould. I use a resin cake form that I bought at a two-dollar shop. Once the soap is in the mould, place a cutting board on the top and wrap it in a towel so it cools down slowly.
The next morning, or about 15 hours later, release the soap from the mould and cut it into whatever shape you desire. I don’t fiddle with the shape; I just cut them into blocks with a sharp knife. I like my soap to look handmade, but many soap makers fashion their soaps to look very professional. You do what you want to do. I do stamp my soaps with a plain old rubber or potato stamp when the soap starts to harden – about 4–6 hours after pouring. This time period will vary depending on the temperature in your house.
Place the cakes of soap on a drying rack somewhere they can stay for a couple of weeks. Turn the soap over every second day to allow it to dry out evenly. I cure my soaps for about 6 weeks before using them. The drier they are when you use them, the longer they last. If you use your soap after a week or so, it will go soft when it gets wet and won’t last long.
You can also pour your soap (while it’s still in liquid form) into loofahs that have been cut into disks. Just wrap the bottom of the loofah in a small piece of plastic wrap so the hot soap doesn’t run through. The next morning, or when it’s set, just tidy up the top with a sharp knife and allow the loofah soaps to cure for a few weeks.
Skincare
While it’s lovely to be given organic and natural skincare products as gifts, I tend to make what I need from what I have here at home. You don’t need expensive potions; rely on Mother Nature to supply what you need in the form of oils, herbs and petals that will serve you just as well as anything you’ll buy over the counter – without the chemicals.
FACE AND BODY MOISTURISER
Dry skin is best treated after you’ve had a shower or bath, when the pores are open. If you have dry skin, a simple rich oil, such as almond, sesame, vitamin E or olive oil, is all you need. Normal to oily skin will need a lighter oil, such as jojoba or avocado oil.
You can apply all these oils in two ways. Either apply the oil straight on to your skin and rub gently in a circular motion, or wet your hands with warm water, add a drop or two of oil to your warm, wet hands and then rub on to your skin.
QUICK ROSEWATER
Place a cup of firmly packed rose petals (that have not been sprayed with insecticide) in a saucepan. Pour in 2 cups of water and bring to the boil. Stir with a wooden spoon, bruising the petals as you stir. Let it simmer for 3 minutes and take it off the stove. Cover with a cotton cloth and let it sit until cool. Strain, making sure you get all the liquid out of the petals, and store in a sterilised, sealed jar or bottle for up to a month.
Splash rosewater on your face after cleansing, use as a fragrant hair rinse or as a spray-on fragrance for your ironing.
ROSE MOISTURISER
To make an excellent moisturiser, use 2 parts rosewater mixed with 1 part glycerin. Shake well to combine and use on the face or as a body lotion.
Glycerin is a natural product usually purchased from the chemist. It is extracted from commercial soap during processing.
SIMPLE FACIAL CLEANSERS
For dry to normal skin, rub skin gently with cotton wool dipped in milk. Leave for 30 seconds, rinse off and dry.
For oily skin, apply plain, natural yoghurt to the skin with fingertips. Leave for 30 seconds, rinse off and dry. Natural yoghurt and the lactic acid it contains exfoliates the skin. It is also a good moisturiser.
HERB WATER
Herb water may be used as simple skin tonics or for hydrating and cleansing the skin. Elder flowers and lime flowers are soothing on dry skin, comfrey and marigold are good for normal skin and chamomile and rosemary are excellent for oily skin.
To make herb water, simply take ¼ cup of fresh herb leaves or flower petals and place in a bowl. Pour a cup of boiling water over the leaves and petals. Cover the infusion with a cloth and leave for 3 hours to steep and develop. Strain through muslin and store in a glass bottle.
Herb water will keep for up to 4 days in the refrigerator but it is best to use it fresh.
When using water for any of the herb and rosewater recipes, use either rainwater, spring water or tap water that’s been allowed to sit in a bowl for 24 hours. That will allow the chlorine to evaporate.
LIP BALM
Melt 6 tablespoons of beeswax in a saucepan on a low heat on the stove. When it’s melted remove from the stove and mix with 6 tablespoons of sesame oil and 2 tablespoons of honey. Stir until the mixture thickens. Store in a small jar for up to 2 months.
There is a simple key to almost everything you do at home – organisation. If you start out by decluttering, then get into the habit of organising your food shopping, cupboards, clothes, cleaning, washing, dishes, craft supplies and garden, you will almost always be able to do your housework efficiently. It will help a lot if you set everything up well at the beginning but don’t be afraid to change what isn’t working for you as you go along. What you are aiming for here is to get rid of all the things you don’t need, manage your time well by developing a routine that will help you get through your chores, then work to your own rhythm every day.
Time management
Time management will help you do the work you need to do so you have time for the things you want to do. Time is managed most effectively if you’re organised and work to a regular routine. You can work out for yourself what system best suits you and the amount of time you have, by first sitting down and thinking about your life and the many elements in it. Have a pen and notebook handy because you’ll need to list your priorities and then go on to map out a plan of what will work for you.
It doesn’t matter if you’re a full-time homemaker, if you’re working full-time outside the home or anything in between; you will benefit from shaping a way of doing your housework that is efficient, effective and productive. When we do certain things each day, we train our brain to expect that action. They say it takes about three weeks to modify be
haviour and establish a habit, so don’t expect it all to fall into place overnight.
Sometimes, when I have a deadline to meet, housework to do, and voluntary work, gardening, cooking and my family to tend to, I feel a slight panic – how will I ever get it done? At those times I’ve taught myself to step back, think about my work and be mindful of the kind of life I am living. When I do that, when I take a step back rather than racing headlong into it, I get a clearer picture of how I can carry out my work efficiently and plan the day ahead. Above all else, I have to tell myself that my work has to be broken up into chunks, it doesn’t have to be perfect and it doesn’t all have to be done. That saves me every time.
Slowing down
I grew up in a much slower time, a time when bread was delivered by horse and cart and a ginger beer merchant sold his product, from a cart, door to door. Believe it or not, that was the start of the commercialisation of food. Previously, mothers and grandmas had made bread and ginger beer at home. A few years later we started taking our saucepan to the local Chinese shop (very infrequently, I must add) for a treat of takeaway Chinese food – well before any thoughts of plastic or polystyrene containers. These were slow times with lazy Sunday roast lunches, talking to the neighbours over the back fence and train travel, when you’d take a Thermos flask of tea and sandwiches to eat en route. It was a time when you’d often hear, ‘We’ll do it tomorrow,’ ‘It has to cook for three hours,’ and ‘Let it sit and ferment for a few days.’ Nothing was rushed.
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