If there is more than one site guardian on duty, one is usually happy to lead visitors through the site for a small tip.
Immediately inside the gate is the lower town, with the remains of garum factories where fish was salted and the paste so beloved by the Romans was produced. A track leads up the hill to the acropolis, passing a steep amphitheatre built by the Romans along the way. Baths were originally built into the side of the amphitheatre, with some traces of mosaic flooring. Some mosaics from the site were removed and are now on display at the archaeology museum in Tetouan. Others are said to have been destroyed when the son of a former guardian of the site tried to dig them up so as to sell them on antiquities black market.
Continue up the path to the overgrown acropolis, which straddles the crest of the hill. From here there are lovely views down over the Loukos Estuary and salt fields below. The civic buildings (including temple sanctuaries) and original city ramparts are here, as are traces of pre-Roman structures.
8Getting There & Away
Lixus is approximately 5.5km north of Pl de la Libération in Larache, on the road to Tangier. A petit taxi costs Dh20 one way, but you may have trouble flagging down a bus or taxi on the highway for your return trip; it's best to organise for the taxi driver to pick you up at an agreed time.
Asilah أصيلا
Pop 31,054
The tortilla, paella and rioja (Spanish wine) served in most of Asilah's restaurants are reminders that this compact town was Spanish territory for a long time. Today, it's an easy introduction to Morocco, offering a good selection of budget and midrange accommodation and an extremely pretty medina to explore. There are also plenty of clean swimming and surf beaches close by.
The town is sleepy for most of the year, but in the summer months its population triples and the streets and town beach are crammed with sun-seeking Moroccan and Spanish families, some of whom retain holiday houses here. The best time to visit is in spring or autumn when the weather is still pleasant but the holiday hordes have left.
History
This small but strategic port has had a turbulent history ever since it began life as the Carthaginian settlement of Zilis. During the Punic Wars the people backed Carthage, and when the region fell to the Romans, the locals were shipped to Spain and replaced with Iberians. From then on, Asilah was inexorably linked with the Spanish and with their numerous battles for territory.
As Christianity conquered the forces of Islam on the Iberian Peninsula in the 14th and 15th centuries, Asilah felt the knock-on effects. In 1471 the Portuguese sent 477 ships with 30,000 men, captured the port and built the walls that still surround the medina, a trading post on their famous gold route across Africa. In 1578 King Dom Sebastian of Portugal embarked on an ill-fated crusade from Asilah. He was killed, and Portugal (and its Moroccan possessions) passed into the hands of the Spanish, who remained for a very long time.
Asilah was recaptured by Moulay Ismail in 1691. In the 19th century, continuing piracy prompted Austria and then Spain to send their navies to bombard the town. Its most famous renegade was Er-Raissouli, one of the most colourful bandits ever raised in the wild Rif Mountains. Early in the 20th century, Er-Raissouli used Asilah as his base, becoming the bane of the European powers. Spain made Asilah part of its protectorate from 1911 until 1956.
Asilah
1Sights
1Asilah MedinaA3
2Bab al-KasabaB2
3Bab HomarB3
4Centre de Hassan II Rencontres InternationalesB2
5Church of San BartolomeD2
6Great MosqueA3
7Palais de RaissouliA3
4Sleeping
8Christina's HouseB4
9Dar AzaouiaA3
10Dar ManaraA3
11Hotel Patio de la LunaC2
12Hôtel SaharaD2
5Eating
13Ali BabaB4
14Casa GarcíaD1
15Central MarketD2
16La Perle d'AsilahD1
17Restaurant Dar Al MaghrebiaC2
18Restaurante Oceano Casa PepeC2
6Drinking & Nightlife
19Al-MadinaB2
20La Symphonie II des DouceursB2
1Sights
Asilah has long had a reputation as a city of the arts. It all started in 1978 when several Moroccan artists were invited to hold workshops for local children and to paint some walls in the medina as part of the town’s moussem (saint’s day celebrations). Sadly, there's not much of artistic note happening here these days.
Asilah’s main beach stretches north from town. It’s a wide sweep of golden sand, but the ugly and noisy cafes along its length and the ever-present mounds of rubbish on the sand make it less than appealing. Paradise Beach at Rmilate, 7km south of town, is a much better choice for swimmers. Sidi Mghayet, approximately 13km further south, is a popular surf beach and nearby Rada Beach has a popular beach cafe.
Asilah MedinaAREA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Asilah’s largely residential medina is surrounded by sturdy stone fortifications built by the Portuguese in the 15th century. Within the walls are tranquil narrow streets lined by white houses with blue or green decorative touches; many of these have been purchased and painstakingly restored by foreigners. Although this restoration work has left the medina much sanitised, its winding lanes, jalousies (wooden, trellis-like window shutters) and colourful murals – painted each year during the Asilah Festival – make it very photogenic.
Access to the ramparts is limited. The southwestern bastion is the best spot for views over the ocean and is a popular spot at sunset. It also offers a peek into the nearby Koubba of Sidi Mansur (which is otherwise closed to non-Muslims) and the Mujaheddin Graveyard.
The southern entrance to the medina, Bab Homar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Hassan II), is topped by the much-eroded Portuguese royal coat of arms. The main entrance, Bab al-Kasaba ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), leads to the Great Mosque ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Medina), which is closed to non-Muslims. The medina is busiest on Thursdays, Asilah’s main market day.
Palais de RaissouliHISTORIC BUILDING
(Palais de Culture; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Medina)
This palace was built in 1909 by Er-Raissouli the pirate and stands as a testament to the sumptuous life he led at the height of his power. Beautifully restored, it is usually only open during the Asilah Festival. The building includes a main reception room with a glass-fronted terrace overlooking the sea, from where Er-Raissouli forced convicted murderers to jump to their deaths onto the rocks 30m below.
Centre de Hassan II Rencontres InternationalesGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 41 70 65; http://c-assilah.com; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm, to 8pm summer)F
Located in a handsome house just inside the main entrance to the medina, this exhibition space hosts revolving exhibitions of international painting and sculpture in its gallery, and acts as the hub of the annual Asilah Festival.
Church of San BartolomeCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Aves du Prince Héritier & Mohammed V)
Built in 1925 by Spanish Franciscans in a typical Hispano-Moorish style, this is one of the few churches in Morocco allowed to ring the bells for Sunday Mass.
RASCALLY ER-RAISSOULI
Bandit, kidnapper and general troublemaker, Moulay Ahmed ben Mohammed er-Raissouli (or Raisuni) was one of Asilah’s most legendary inhabitants. He started life as a petty crook in the Rif Mountains and saw no problem in bumping off unwilling victims, leading to him becoming renowned as a merciless murderer and feared right across the region.
Internationally, Er-Raissouli was best known for kidnapping Westerners. He and his band held various luminaries to ransom, including Greek-American billionaire Ion Perdicaris, who was ransomed in 1904 for US$70,000.
In an attempt to control the unruly outlaw, consecutive sultans appointed him to various political positions, including governor of Asilah and later Tangier. However, Er-Raissouli continued with his wicked ways, amassing great wealth in whatever way
he could. He held considerable sway over the Rif tribes and the Spanish funded his arms in the hope of keeping order in the mountains, but Er-Raissouli often used them against his benefactors.
The Spaniards eventually forced Er-Raissouli to flee Asilah after WWI, but he continued to wreak havoc in the Rif hinterland until January 1925, when the Rif rebel Abd al-Krim arrested him and accused him of being too closely linked with the Spanish. Er-Raissouli died from natural causes two months later.
zFestivals & Events
Asilah FestivalCULTURAL
(www.c-assilah.com; hJul)
The Centre de Hassan II Rencontres Internationales is the main focus for this annual festival, when artists, musicians, performers and spectators descend upon the town. Events include workshops, public art demonstrations, concerts and exhibitions.
4Sleeping
During high season (Easter week and July to September) the town is flooded with visitors so it’s advisable to book well in advance.
oMIA HostelHOSTEL€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 41 78 94; www.mia-hostels.com; 55 Lot Minza; dm Dh120-160, d/tw Dh580/640, all incl breakfast; iW)
It takes its name from owners Mehdi, Ismael and Ali, and this excellent hostel does them all proud. Dorms and rooms have comfortable beds, there's plenty of hot water in the bathrooms, and facilities include a TV lounge, a book exchange, bike and surfboard rental, a communal kitchen and a rooftop terrace where summer BBQs are held (Dh50 to Dh100). Most rooms have air-con.
Hôtel SaharaHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 41 71 85; 9 Rue Tarfaya; s/d without bathroom Dh90/150; W)
A good cheapie, this small hotel offers rooms set around an open courtyard. Patterned tiles and potted plants adorn the entrance, and the simple rooms are well maintained (though some have tiny windows and are reminiscent of prison cells). The sparkling shared toilets and hot showers (Dh5) are well-kept. No English.
Christina's HouseGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0610 50 20 26; www.christinashouseasilah.com; 26 Rue Ibn Khatib, off Blvd 16 Nov; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh380/490/540; W)
A friendly guesthouse that feels more like a home than a hotel, this place is run by Spanish-born Sally and offers freshly painted rooms with tiled floors and simple bathrooms. There's a comfortable lounge, communal kitchen and huge rooftop terrace with plenty of seating. Meals are available on request.
Dar ManaraBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 41 69 64; www.asilah-darmanara.com; 23 Rue M'Jimma, Medina; d & tw incl breakfast Dh700; aW)
One of only a few accommodation options in the medina, this Spanish-owned riad has been elegantly restored and converted into an intimate hotel. Rooms are small but attractively presented, and common areas include an elegant salon with an open fireplace and an alluring roof terrace with traditional Moroccan seating. Our only caveat is that staff can be unfriendly.
Hotel Patio de la LunaHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 41 60 74; [email protected]; 12 Pl Zellaka; s/tr Dh300/500, d Dh400-450; W)
Spanish-run, this small place near Bab al-Kasaba has seven rooms with minimalist decor, a shady rear courtyard and a windy roof terrace. The nicest rooms are on the 1st floor or the terrace at the front of the building, but these may be blighted by street noise in high summer. Cash only.
oDar AzaouiaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0672 11 05 35; www.darazaouia-asilah.com; 16 Rue Moulay Driss N 6, near Bab Homar; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh800/850/950; pW)
Belgian owned and operated, this small, beautiful guesthouse comfortably blends Moroccan tradition with contemporary European style. Local textiles and objets d'art are scattered throughout the building and there are good beds, quality toiletries, a welcoming lounge and dining room and a small roof terrace. Dinner is available on request (Dh270) and alcohol is served. Prebooking is essential.
Hotel Al-AlbaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0613 42 91 90; www.hotelalalba.com; 35 Lot Nahil; s/d/ste incl breakfast Dh780/900/1020; aW)
Tucked behind Restaurant Annakhil on the edge of the town centre, this small and very comfortable hotel is decorated in blue and white as a homage to the medina. The young, multilingual staff go out of their way to be helpful (we love the complimentary mint tea) and the in-house hammam is a real draw (treatments Dh275 to Dh380, nonguests welcome).
There's an inhouse restaurant (three-course set menu Dh140), but the food is disappointing and no alcohol is available.
WORTH A TRIP
MONOLITHS OF M'SOURA
The mysterious Monoliths of M’Soura make an interesting half-day trip from Asilah. This prehistoric site consists of a large stone circle (actually an ellipse) of about 175 stones, thought to have originally surrounded a burial mound. Although many of the stones have fallen or been broken, the circle is still impressive, its strange presence heightened by the desolation of its location. The tallest stone reaches about 5.5m in height and is known as El-Uted (The Pointer).
The stone circle is about 25km (by road) southeast of Asilah. To get there you’ll need a sturdy vehicle. Head for the village of Souq Tnine de Sidi el-Yamani, off highway R417, which branches east off the main Tangier–Rabat road. Veer left in the village and follow a poorly maintained, unsealed track 6km north to the site. It can be difficult to find so you may want to ask for directions or hire a guide in the village.
Another interesting trip from Asilah is a visit to the lively Sunday market in the village of Had Gharbia, 16km north of town off the road to Tangier.
5Eating
The quality of restaurants here is generally low and prices high, so eating out isn't a highlight. There's a string of slightly grotty juice bars, cafes and fast food restaurants along the medina walls on Ave Hassan II. These fast-food joints serve carbon-copy menus of pizza (Dh30 to Dh55) and tajines (Dh40 to Dh50). All have street seating. There are a few other cheap options around the central market.
oRestaurant Dar Al MaghrebiaMOROCCAN€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0633 66 23 77; 7 Rue Al Banafsaje; mains Dh45-60; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm)
Deserving kudos for its bargain prices, tasty dishes and atmospheric surrounds, this small restaurant off Pl Mohammed V offers a selection of tajines, pastillas, brochettes, briouats and couscous dishes; all arrive in relatively small serves. Dine in the charming dining salon or at one of three street-side tables. No alcohol, but fruit cocktails are available (Dh30).
Ali BabaMOROCCAN€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0633 58 00 50; www.restaurantalibaba.com; cnr Aves Abou Ferras El Hamadani & Hassan II; dishes Dh20-50; hnoon-1am)
Extremely popular with local residents and workers, this impeccably clean place serves fresh and tasty harira (lentil soup), tajines, shwarma (meat sliced off a spit and stuffed in a pocket of pita-type bread), pizza and sandwiches. Eat in or take away.
Central MarketMARKET€
(Marché Central; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohamed VI; h8am-8pm)
Asilah's small central market is a good place to source fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and spices. The restaurants in its front arcade serve excellent fresh fish at bargain prices.
Casa GarcíaSPANISH€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 41 74 65; 51 Rue Moulay Hassan ben el-Mehdi; mains Dh50-125; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm)
Spanish-style fish dishes are the speciality at this friendly restaurant a couple of streets back from the beach. The food is acceptable rather than inspired (the chef has an extremely heavy hand with garlic), but the breezy terrace is a pleasant spot on which to while away an evening with a bottle of wine.
Restaurante Oceano Casa PepeSEAFOOD€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 41 73 95; 8 Pl Zellaka; mains Dh60-350; hnoon-midnight)
The surrounds at this old-fashioned Spanish eatery are pleasant enough, but the food lacks flavour, freshness and finesse. Its location right in front of the main entrance to the medina is convenient, but if you choose to dine here we suggest that you sti
ck to simple fried fish. Fortunately, it's licensed.
La Perle d'AsilahFRENCH€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0618 55 69 80; cnr Rue Allal ben Abdallah & Ave Melilla; mains Dh120-250, 2-3-course menus Dh160/190; hnoon-3pm & 7-10.30pm)
Generally accepted as Asilah's most impressive eating option, La Perle's menu leans heavily on the Gallic, with a handful of Spanish and Asian options thrown into the mix. Surrounds are classy, and the set two- and three-course menus are excellent value.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Most drinking in town occurs in the Spanish restaurants, and there are no bars or clubs worthy of recommendation. Cafes are found on nearly every street corner in the blocks around Pl Mohammed V, but most have solely male clienteles.
La Symphonie II des DouceursCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 26 Pl Zellaka)
A good place for a coffee or mint tea, with street-side tables overlooking Bab al-Kasaba. The waiters don't mind if you linger over your drinks, which is fortunate as there's plenty of people-watching potential.
Al-MadinaCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl Abdellah Guennoun)
The main attraction of this simple little cafe in the medina is its sunny seating area in the square in front of El-Khamra Tower. It's a great place to watch the world go by.
8Information
There are plenty of banks with ATMs on Pl Mohammed V and along Ave 16 Novembre, south of Bab Homar.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 37