Hôtel-Restaurant L’InitialeB&B€€
(%0523 36 62 46; [email protected]; Oualidia Plage; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh450/500/600; aW)
Predominantly a tourist restaurant (pizzas Dh55 to Dh60, pastas Dh60 to Dh140), this modern hotel next to the plage has a warm orange interior and six comfortable rooms with tiny balconies. Restaurant noise can be a problem.
oLa SultanaHOTEL€€€
(%0524 38 80 08; www.lasultanahotels.com/oualidia; Parc à Huîtres No 3; r Dh4400-9100; hclosed Jan; pnaiWs#)S
Each of the 11 spacious suites at this luxurious spa hotel has a private Jacuzzi and terrace overlooking the lagoon, but guests spend most of their waking hours lazing by the spectacular infinity pool, being pampered in the luxurious spa, feasting on seafood at the terrace restaurant or sipping sunset cocktails on the jetty. A lavish breakfast costs Dh180.
L’HippocampeHOTEL€€€
(%0523 36 61 08; [email protected]; Rte du Palais; r Dh1200-1500, ste Dh2600, all incl breakfast; paWs#)
Oddly enough, the spick-and-span standard and comfort rooms at this old-fashioned place are the best choices – suites are musty, with an ugly decor. The main draws are the flower-filled garden and utterly magnificent terrace overlooking the lagoon. There’s a bar, an excellent restaurant (mains Dh80 to Dh210), a good-sized pool edged with lawn and access to a small private beach.
5Eating & Drinking
For cheap eats, head to Ave Hassan II in the upper town.
There is a pleasant lounge bar at L’Hippocampe hotel and an absolutely spectacular jetty bar at La Sultana.
L’Araignée GourmandeSEAFOOD€€
(%0523 36 64 47; www.araignee-gourmande.com; Oualidia Plage; 12 oysters Dh130, fried fish Dh100; hnoon-11pm)
The town's best-known restaurant has lost its mojo in recent years – standards of service and food have dropped. That said, it's still a reasonable option if you order simply. No alcohol. The attached hotel isn't recommended.
La SultanaHOTEL€€€
(%0524 38 80 08; www.lasultanahotels.com/oualidia; Parc à Huîtres No 3; seafood platters Dh220-1000; h8am-10pm; W)
Even if you can't stay in this luxury hotel, you should consider enjoying a leisurely lunch at its terrace restaurant on the edge of the lagoon. It specialises in fresh shellfish, which is kept in high-tech tanks and served straight from tank to the table – the oysters, clams, sea urchins and spider crabs are delicious. Great wine list, too.
Ostréa IISEAFOOD€€€
(%0523 36 64 51; www.ostrea.ma; Parc à Huîtres; 12 oysters Dh180-280; h11am-10pm)
Oualidia is famous for its oyster beds, which produce about 200 tonnes of oysters annually, and this restaurant attached to an oyster farm is a great place to slurp some bivalves. These come in three grades, with the difference being the size. Order them grilled, served with almonds or au naturel. Paella and fried fish are also available.
The well-signed access road to the restaurant is off the main highway, at the entrance to town. It's an easy 15-minute walk from the roundabout in the upper town.
8Getting There & Away
Grands taxis congregate on Ave Hassan II near Hotel Restaurant Thalassa and travel to/from Casablanca (Dh90, 2½ hours), El Jadida (Dh50, 40 minutes) and Safi (Dh50, 45 minutes). If you're heading to Marrakesh, a taxi complet (grand taxi functioning as a private taxi) will cost Dh800. From the main road, it's a 10-minute walk down to the lagoon and beach – grands taxis will ask for an extra tip to drop you down here.
BIRDWATCHING ON THE ATLANTIC COAST
The Atlantic Coast attracts hundreds of species of migrating birds and is known to aficionados the word over as prime birdwatching territory. The wild and blustery coastline is dotted with marshlands, salt pans and lagoons that offer birds shelter and abundant sustenance on their migrations between Europe and Africa in spring and autumn (fall).
Merja Zerga National Park, near Moulay Bousselham, north of Rabat, is known for its birdlife, as are the lagoons in Oualidia and Sidi Moussa, south of Casablanca. Regularly spotted species include herons, flamingos, ibises, the African marsh owl, spoonbills, plovers, egrets, slender-billed and Audouin’s gulls, shelducks, teals, terns, marsh harriers, avocets, stilts, godwits, storks and peregrine falcons. Shearwaters are often seen on the ocean reefs.
Safi آسفي
Pop 308,175
An industrial centre and thriving port, Safi is a lot less picturesque than neighbouring coastal towns but does offer an insight into the day-to-day life of a Moroccan city. Most tourists stop here en route to or from Essaouira to visit the giant pottery works that produce the typical brightly coloured Safi pottery.
The new town is pleasant enough, with tree-lined boulevards and whitewashed villas, but the alleys of the walled and fortified medina are more atmospheric to stroll through, and you often have the sites to yourself. The beaches are famous for their impressive surf.
History
Safi’s natural harbour was known to the Phoenicians and the Romans, and in the 11th century it was a port for the trans-Saharan trade between Marrakesh and Guinea, where gold, slaves and ivory were sold. In the 14th century the town became an important religious and cultural centre when the Merenids built a ribat here. The Portuguese took the city for a brief spell from 1508 until 1541, when the Saadians took it back. They built the monumental Qasr al-Bahr fortress and generally expanded the town, but destroyed most monuments upon their departure.
In the 16th century Safi grew wealthy from the trade in copper and sugar, and European merchants and agents flocked to the city, but when the port at Essaouira was rebuilt in the 18th century Safi was largely forgotten.
Safi’s real revival came in the 20th century when its fishing fleet expanded and huge industrial complexes were built to process the 30,000 tonnes of sardines caught annually. A major phosphate-processing complex was established south of the town and the city began to expand rapidly. Today, Safi is one of Morocco’s largest ports.
Safi
1Sights
1Cathédrale PortugaiseB2
2Colline des PotiersC1
3KechlaD1
4MedinaB2
5Qasr al-BahrA2
4Sleeping
6Golden Tulip FarahC3
7Riad AsfiB3
8Riad le Cheval BlancB2
5Eating
9Café Restaurant Du PotierC1
6Drinking & Nightlife
10Espace Jalal EssafinaA3
7Shopping
Poterie SerghiniC1
1Sights
MedinaMEDINA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Safi's walled medieval medina is sliced in two by the main street, Rue du Souq, which runs northeast from Bab Lamaasa to Bab Chaaba and is lined with shops. On the southern side of this street, down a twisting alley, are the remains of the 16th-century Cathédrale Portugaise. The Kechla ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), another structure built by the Portuguese, is located in the medina's southeastern corner. Shops and street stands selling Safi's famous ceramics are clustered around Bab Chaaba.
Cathédrale PortugaiseRUINS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Medina; adult/child under 12yr Dh10/3)
Opposite the entrance to the Great Mosque and clearly signed from Rue du Souq, this ruined cathedral dates from 1519 and was built in the Manueline (Portuguese late Gothic) style. Its construction was never completed and most of the structure was demolished after the departure of the Portuguese. All that remains are parts of the choir and a side chapel.
Colline des PotiersLANDMARK
(Potters’ Hill; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bab Chaaba)
The earthen kilns and chimneys of the Colline des Potiers are clearly seen from Bab Chaaba at the edge of the medina. The skills used here are predominantly traditional and you can wander around the cooperatives and see the potters at work. If a potter invites you in to watch him at work, you’ll be expected to give a small tip or buy an item or two from the shop.
Qasr al-BahrHISTORIC BUILDING
> (Castle on the Sea; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dh10)
The ruins of Safi's once-impressive castle are located next to the crashing waves of the Atlantic. Built to enforce Portuguese authority, house the town governor and protect the port, the tower once housed prisoners who were kept in the basement before being killed or shipped as slaves. In an appalling state of disrepair, the castle is closed to the public while it awaits a long-overdue restoration.
4Sleeping
There are a handful of decent midrange hotels in Safi, but few of the budget options on offer are clean or comfortable.
Riad le Cheval BlancB&B€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 46 45 27; www.riad-cheval-blanc.com; 26 Derb El Kaouss, Bab Sidi Boudhab; s/d/tr Dh490/530/735; aW)
A multistorey traditional dar hidden inside the medina near Bab Lamassa, this B&B is stronger on character than on comfort, but gets a warm recommendation from us for its reasonable prices, helpful management, panoramic roof terrace, handicraft-adorned interior and squeaky-clean bathrooms. Its major drawback is the lumpy and short beds.
Ryad du PêcheurHOTEL€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 61 02 91; www.ryaddupecheur.com; 1 Rue des Cretes; s Dh500, d Dh550-700, f Dh700-1100; paW)
The owner of this hotel is from a well-known family of local potters, so colourful tiles adorn every available surface. Double rooms and large family suites are set around the courtyard restaurant; all are clean but their decor won't suit everyone. Drawcards include the restaurant, a hammam and a rooftop terrace with sweeping views over the port's ship-building yards.
Golden Tulip FarahHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 46 42 99; www.goldentulipfarahsafi.com; Ave Zerktouni; s/d incl breakfast Dh690/980; paWs)
A good night's sleep is assured at this business hotel located in a quiet and leafy residential enclave high above the medina. Rooms are large and comfortable, with a nondescript decor in shades of beige. Facilities include a large outdoor pool, two restaurants (one Italian, one international), two bars, a gym and a spa with hammam (gommage DH90, massage DH250).
Riad AsfiHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 46 46 95; www.hotelriadasfi.com; 11 Pl de l’Indépendance; s Dh350, d Dh450-500, all incl breakfast; W)
The name is deceptive, as this place opposite the Qasr al-Bahr is an extremely ugly business hotel rather than a converted traditional house. Rooms are clean and reasonably comfortable, but we suggest avoiding those at the rear, which have no natural light – request a front one with balcony. Views from the 5th-floor restaurant are sensational.
5Eating & Drinking
Sourcing a decent restaurant meal in Safi is a challenge, and we have listed the only eateries worthy of recommendation. Rather than opting for a sit-down meal, many visitors end up following the local lead and snacking on grilled sardines (a local speciality) at the ramshackle and less-than-hygienic eateries on the cliff face next to the Qasr al-Bahr.
To source an alcoholic drink, you'll need to dine at Restaurant La Trattoria or head to one of the bars or restaurants at the Golden Tulip Farah.
Café Restaurant Du PotierMOROCCAN€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4 Rue des Forgeronts, Bab Chaaba; tajines Dh50-60, fresh juices Dh15-20; h11am-10pm)
You'll sit next to a tiled fountain under an orange tree and a fig tree if you choose to enjoy a simple Moroccan meal, glass of mint tea or fresh juice at this charming courtyard cafe near the Colline des Potiers. Owned by the Serghini family of potters, whose ceramics shop is attached, it's a lovely place in which to while away an hour.
Restaurant Ryad du PêcheurMOROCCAN€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 61 02 91; www.ryaddupecheur.com; 1 Rue des Cretes; pastas Dh50-80, mains Dh70-135; h7-11.30am, noon-6pm & 7-11pm; W)
A lovely spot for a meal in the warmer months, this courtyard restaurant opposite the port serves simple pasta dishes, tajines and fried fish in a garden setting. No alcohol.
Restaurant La TrattoriaITALIAN€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0699 04 40 63; www.restaurant-latrattoria.com; 2 Rue l’Aouinate; pizzas Dh50-70, pastas Dh60-70, mains Dh100-150; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-10pm)
Any Italian restaurant that substitutes grated supermarket-style mozzarella for Parmesan should be ashamed of itself; sadly, this is the case here. Avoid pastas and mains and instead order a mediocre pizza. It's licensed, which is good, but attracts sleazy drunk businessmen, which is bad. You'll find it on Blvd du Front de Mer, 400m north of the medina.
Espace Jalal EssafinaCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-11pm)
The location of this ice-cream cafe on Safi's clifftop promenade is superb, offering panoramic ocean views from a huge terrace. Staff make perfectly acceptable espresso coffee that locals tend to enjoy with a crêpe (Dh15 to Dh18) or ice-cream sundae (Dh10 to Dh30).
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
BEACHSIDE SHELLFISH
From late afternoon on, head to the plaza next to the camping ground or to the beachfront to buy freshly gathered shellfish from crates on the backs of fishers' scooters. Oysters, clams, razor shells and sea urchins are shucked as fast as you can eat them and served with a squeeze of lemon for around Dh5 a shell. Divine.
7Shopping
It's all about Safi's signature pottery here. You can find some great items (as well as some awful tourist dross). Head to Colline des Potiers to scope out the full range of what's on offer.
oPoterie SerghiniCERAMICS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 34 69 10; www.poterieserghini.com; 4 Rue des Forgeronts, Bab Chaaba; h10am-7pm)
Safi's famed ceramics are showcased in this huge shop and gallery near Bab Chaaba. English-speaking owner Mehdi Serghini is the seventh generation of a famous family of potters and is happy to show visitors his personal collection of ceramics. The ceramics for sale are well priced and of a high quality.
8Information
There are plenty of banks and ATMs clustered around Pl de l’Indépendance and Pl Driss ben Nacer.
The official Safi website www.safi-ville.com includes some tourist information.
Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
Police Station ( GOOGLE MAP )
8Getting There & Away
ABus The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Président Kennedy) is quite a distance south from the centre of town. Most CTM buses stopping in Safi originate elsewhere, so consider booking in advance. Destinations include Agadir (Dh115, six hours, three daily), Casablanca (Dh100, 4¾ hours, eight daily), El Jadida (Dh60, 2¾, six daily) and Essaouira (Dh55, two hours, four daily).
ATaxi There are grands taxis to Marrakesh (Dh100, 2½ hours) and Oualidia (Dh50, 45 minutes), among other destinations. These leave from the parking lot beside the bus station.
ATrain From Safi train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue de R’bat) there are two services per day at 5.50am and 3.50pm involving a change at Benguérir and calling at Casablanca (1st/2nd class Dh127/79, 4½ hours), Rabat (Dh203/116, 5¾ hours) and Fez (Dh308/195, 8¾ hours).
8Getting Around
A metered petit taxi, from either the bus station or train station into the centre of town, costs around Dh10. Local buses operate from just north of Pl Driss ben Nacer.
Essaouira الصويرة
Pop 77,426
It is the coastal wind – the beautifully named alizee, or taros in Berber – that has allowed Essaouira (essa-weera, or es-sweera in Arabic) to retain its traditional culture and character. For most of the year, the wind blows so hard here that relaxing on the beach is impossible, meaning that the town is bypassed by the hordes of beach tourists who descend on other Atlantic Coast destinations in summer. Known as the ‘Wind City of Africa’, it attracts plenty of windsurfers between April and November, but the majority of visitors come here in spring and autumn to wander through the spice-scented lanes and palm-lined avenues of the fortified medina, browse the many art galleries and boutiques, relax in some of the country's best hotels and watch fishing nets being mended and traditional
boats being constructed in the hugely atmospheric port.
Essaouira lies on the crossroads between two tribes: the Arab Chiadma to the north and the Haha Berbers in the south. Add to that the Gnawa, who came originally from further south in Africa, and the Europeans, and you get a rich cultural mix.
Winter is the time to get closer to the real Essaouira, when the wind howls at its strongest and the waves smash against the city’s defences. In summer the town is invaded by throngs of Moroccan tourists, the beach is crowded and it is hard to find accommodation.
History
Most of the old city and fortifications in Essaouira today date from the 18th century, but the town has a much older history that started with the Phoenicians. For centuries, foreigners had a firm grip over the town, and although Moroccans eventually reclaimed it, the foreign influence lingers on in the way the town looks and feels today.
In 1764 Sultan Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah installed himself in Essaouira (then known as Mogador) so that his corsairs could launch attacks on the people of Agadir, who were rebelling against him. He hired a French architect, Théodore Cornut, to create a city in the middle of sand and wind, where nothing had previously existed. The combination of Moroccan and European styles pleased the sultan, who renamed the town Essaouira, meaning ‘well designed’. The port soon became a vital link for trade between Timbuktu and Europe. It was a place where the trade in gold, salt, ivory and ostrich feathers was carefully monitored, taxed and controlled by a garrison of 2000 imperial soldiers.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 39