A good budget option, with shuttered balconies that open out onto Pl Moulay el-Mehdi. Views of the fountain below, and the city flowing over the hills add a dash of romance. Room 11 is a good choice. Poorly signed from the street, it's above the BMCE bank, on the 3rd floor of the building.
Hotel ParisHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 96 67 50; 31 Rue Chakib Arsalane; s/d Dh250/295)
The simple, uninspiring rooms are clean, but the bathrooms are small. Institutional hallways accelerate you outdoors. Breakfast costs Dh40.
oEl ReductoGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 96 81 20; www.riadtetouan.com; 38 Zanqat Zawiya; s/d incl breakfast from Dh400/550; aW)
The spotless, palatial rooms are truly fantastic: big bathrooms with lots of Spanish glazed tiles (one has a Jacuzzi for two), quality furniture and beautiful silk bedspreads. Climb the spiral staircase to the roof terrace for spectacular views. Some rooms are above the (excellent) restaurant while others are in the annexe on the opposite side of the lane.
The quixotic decision not to give guests building keys means that you'll need to find a waiter any time you want to get into the accommodation building.
Hotel Panorama VistaHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 96 49 70; www.panoramavista.com; Ave Moulay Abbas; s/d incl breakfast Dh295/395; aW)
Any place calling itself Panorama Vista has to be sure of its location, and, sure enough, rooms here offer dramatic views of the Rif Mountains. The rooms themselves are hotel-chain style without a lot of local ambience, but they're clean and everything works. The best value outside the medina. The cafe on the 1st floor offers a strong Moroccan-continental breakfast.
Blanco RiadGUESTHOUSE€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 70 42 02; www.blancoriad.com; 25 Rue Zawiya Kadiria; d incl breakfast from Dh550, ste Dh1650; aW)
This beautiful medina house with its typical Tetouan architecture has been carefully restored and furnished with a blend of modern and antique pieces. It offers large, comfortable rooms and a Zen-like garden. One of the salons contains a good restaurant open to non-guests, and there's a boutique with a clothes designer doing clever things with traditional Riffian fabrics.
5Eating
Tetouan has not been known for its restaurants in the past, but things are looking up as tourism is encouraged. The best restaurants are those in medina guesthouses. Several places serve alcohol with meals.
Snack TaoussFAST FOOD€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0533 23 11 58; 3 Rue 10 Mai; mains from Dh25; h11am-11pm)
Known for its burgers and chips, this little snack bar has a Syrian influence and does good felafel and delicious shwarma as well as inexpensive pizzas, salads, harira (tomato and chickpea soup), tajines and more. There’s a small seating area upstairs (handy if you’re waiting for a pizza), or you can eat on the move.
DallasPASTRIES€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0533 96 60 69; 11 Rue Youssef ben Tachfine; pastries from Dh4; h6am-10pm; W)
Yes, named after the TV show, but otherwise the name has no bearing on this place, a patisserie stacked to the rafters with plates of pastries. This is where local families come to load up on sweets. One block off Ave Mohammed V.
BirjissFAST FOOD€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 71 11 11; 8 Ave Mohammed Ben Aboud; panini from Dh20; hnoon-11pm)
Made-to-order sandwiches, burgers, pizzas and shwarma make this an excellent option. Choose from a smorgasbord of ingredients both typical and exotic.
OahdaCAFE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0533 96 67 94; 16 Rue al-Ouahda; pastries from Dh4; h7am-9pm, closed Fri afternoon)
A female-friendly cafe popular with locals, where sticky cakes are a speciality. It's a bit claustrophobic on the upper floor.
Restaurant AlbahrFAST FOOD€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0533 68 96 75; 21 Rue Almoukawama; mains from Dh30; hl10am-10pm)
It's all shiny chrome and black decor here, with fried foods, burgers and good fish and chips on the menu. Salads are a plus, and there’s couscous on Fridays (Dh50).
oBlanco RiadMOROCCAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 70 42 02; 25 Rue Zawiya Kadiria; 3-course menu Dh150; hnoon-10pm)
The menu at this elegant riad is a cut above the usual, and features some innovative Moroccan dishes, heavy on local seasonal produce and a big change from the standard tajine menu. The garden is pleasant in summer, and the dining room has both Moroccan and Western seating. Reservations essential; no alcohol.
El ReductoMOROCCAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 96 81 20; 38 Zanqat Zawiya; mains from Dh80; hnoon-10pm)
Tuck into traditional Moroccan (and some Spanish) fare in the grand surroundings of this traditional house, which once belonged to Moroccan vizier and is decorated with antique glazed Seville tiles. Desserts are particularly good, and alcohol is served.
Restaurant RestingaMOROCCAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 21 Ave Mohammed V; mains from Dh40, beer from Dh20; h9am-9pm)
The open-air courtyard shaded by a huge ficus tree is this charming restaurant’s primary attraction – along with the rare alcohol licence. A great place to duck out of the crowded boulevard for a rest and a beer, as well as some seafood from the coast.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
LOCAL MARKETS
There’s loads of fresh fruit and veg for sale in the medina on the road leading east to Bab el-Okla. The central market (closed Friday) around the corner from Lovers Park puts on a good display, with fish brought in from the coast.
6Drinking
As is the Moroccan norm, Tetouan’s drinking establishments are firmly in the male sphere. For a drop of the hard stuff, head for the dark and smoky bars along Rue 10 Mai, northwest of Pl Moulay el-Mehdi. If you just want a beer, Restaurant Restinga is the place, and is female-friendly.
7Shopping
Wood and leatherwork are the local specialities; for the latter go straight to the source at the small tannery in the north of the medina.
Dar LebadiARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0533 97 38 56; Jenoui section; h10am-7pm)
The shopping palace of the medina, this 200-year-old building, a former governor’s house, has been meticulously restored. It is a clearing house for Berber artisans and Rabati carpets, and has friendly staff. Worth a stop just to see the building, but be careful: you may be there for hours.
Ensemble ArtisanatARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Hassan II; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat)
This government-sponsored emporium is a hive of activity, with carpet weavers, leatherworkers, jewellers and woodworkers all plying their trades. Prices are fixed.
TanneryARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bab M’Kabar; hclosed Fri)
Tetouan has traditionally been a leather-producing town, and there is a small tannery here. They're smaller than the tanneries at Fez, but still interesting, and there are leather shops in the vicinity.
8Information
There are plenty of banks with ATMs along Ave Mohammed V.
BMCE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl Moulay el-Mehdi; h8.45am-4pm Mon-Thu, 8.45-11am Fri, 8.45am-noon Sat)
Clinique du Croissant Rouge (Red Cross Clinic; GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 96 20 20; Pl al-Hammama, Quartier Scolaire)
Cyber Friends ( GOOGLE MAP ; 19 Ave Mohammed V; per hr Dh5; h9am-11pm)
Pharmacie El-FeddanPHARMACY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 96 80 51; Pl Hassan II; h9am-1pm & 3.30-8pm)
Useful pharmacy between the Ensanche and the medina.
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Pl Moulay el-Mehdi; h8am-4pm)
Tetouan Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 97 24 30; Ave Abdelkhalek Torres) About 2km out of town.
Voyages HispamarocTRAVEL AGENCY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; fax 0539 71 33 38; 23 Ave Mohammed V; h8.30am-12.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat)
Sells ferry tickets to Spain.
Voyages TravelmarTRAVEL AGENCY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 71 42 3
7; 5 Ave Mohammed V; h9am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat)
Sells ferry tickets to Spain.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
From Tetouan's modern bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave 9 Avril & Ave Meknes) you can get to any town in the north. There’s a left-luggage office (medium/large bag Dh6/10). Local buses serve the following destinations:
AFnideq Dh12, 1¼ hours
AMartil Dh6, 25 minutes
AM’Diq Dh10, one hour
CTM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 96 16 88) has its own station; destinations include the following:
AFez Dh100, six hours
AMarrakesh Dh240, 11½ hours
ARabat Dh120, four hours
Taxi
Grands taxis leave from the main bus station for Oued Laou (Dh20, 30 minutes), Al-Hoceima (Dh150, three hours), Chefchaouen (Dh35, one hour) and Tangier (Dh35, one hour).
Grands taxis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) leave from the CTM bus station for Fnideq (for Ceuta; Dh20, 30 minutes) and Martil (Dh7, 15 minutes).
8Getting Around
Petits taxis are canary yellow; a ride around town should be around Dh10.
If you have your own vehicle, you can keep your car at the guarded Parking Hammadi. ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Al Jazaer; daytime per 4hr Dh10, per night Dh10)
DRIVING THE COAST ROAD
The coast road, Rocade, now stretches from Fnideq all the way along the Mediterranean coast to Saïdia in the far east. From Fnideq to Martil there's a spanking new corniche along the beautiful beach. While there are few hotels, a huge number of holiday apartment blocks have been completed along this stretch, and more are being built. There are resorts at Plage Riffiyenne and the Marina Smir, and the enormous Ritz-Carlton resort under construction promises golf and another marina.
Around Tetouan
While Tetouan sees few foreigners, in summer both local and Europe-based Moroccans flock to the golden beaches close to the town. The coast from Fnideq near Ceuta southwards to M’Diq, Cabo Negro and Martil sports two large golf resorts and swaths of holiday apartments along new corniches.
Cabo Negro & M’Diq الرأس الاسود والمض قٌ
Tucked into the lee of the north side of Cabo Negro is the surprising town of M’Diq. Once a small fishing village, it has rapidly grown into a classy resort, with a grand entrance, a fine beach, good hotels, the enormous Port de Plaisance shopping centre with lots of restaurants and the yacht club. There is really little to separate this place from Florida, but if you are suffering from medina fatigue, it’s the perfect stop, and only 20 minutes from Tetouan.
4Sleeping & Eating
M’Diq’s sleeping options tend to cater to the summer tourist trade and ignore the lower end of the price bracket. Ask for discounts outside the summer months.
Golden Beach HotelHOTEL€€
(%0539 97 50 77; www.goldenbeachhotel.com; 84 Rte de Sebta; s/d incl breakfast Dh500/800, incl half-board Dh650/1050; Ws)
This four-star, aptly named hotel, right on the beach, is worth the splurge – it's short on charm, but well run, well maintained and with good facilities, including a restaurant, a disco, a pool by the corniche and a piano bar with a most clever bar top: piano keys in marble.
Hotel Côte d'OrHOTEL€€
(Corniche; s/d incl breakfast Dh360/490)
One of several new hotels along the corniche, this one is fairly bland with simple, modern rooms. Ask for one with a sea view. There are also apartments that sleep five (Dh1300). It is in a superb location opposite the beach, and there's a cafe and restaurant on the ground floor.
Café OlasSEAFOOD€
(%0539 66 44 33; Corniche; mains from Dh65; h9am-1pm)
You can’t miss this waterfront landmark dressed up as a lighthouse, with a hopping downstairs cafe and an upstairs seafood restaurant. The decor is snappy, the rooftop views superb, and they don’t have to go far to get fresh catch. Located directly on the corniche car park.
La Table du MarchéSEAFOOD€€€
(%0661 47 85 56; Port de Plaisance; h8pm-3am)
Sitting at the end of a causeway in the sea, this Asian-inspired thatched-roof restaurant comes as quite a surprise. With branches in St Tropez and Marrakesh, perhaps this is the new face of Morocco. It offers seafood, sushi and Italian dishes in chic surroundings.
8Getting There & Away
Grands taxis and buses travelling between Tetouan and Fnideq (3km short of the border with Ceuta) pass through M’Diq. Grands taxis to Tetouan (Dh7, 15 minutes) depart from a stand near the Narjiss Hotel on Av Lalla Nezha. Those for the border (Dh15) gather opposite the Golden Beach Hotel.
Martil مارت لٌ
Pop 64355
Tetouan’s port of Martil is a rapidly growing, modern beach town with a broad mountain view and a long corniche paralleled by streets full of apartment blocks, cafes, ice-cream shops and fast-food restaurants. The town also has a golf course and a pair of small shopping centres. It has year-round weekend visitors, and heaves in the summer, but is deserted the rest of the time. It’s a viable base if you don’t mind the 8km, 10-minute cab ride to Tetouan.
4Sleeping & Eating
Martil is chock-full of apartment rentals and resorts aimed squarely at local holiday makers. They're decent if a little bland. If you want something with more character, rest your head in nearby Tetouan.
The corniche is the place to go to eat, as there are a host of open-fronted restaurants facing the sea, as well as ice-cream parlours if you want a cone on your beach stroll. Cheap fast-food places are clustered in the streets near the bus station
Hotel Etoile de la MerHOTEL€
(%0539 97 90 58; Ave Hassan II; s/d incl breakfast Dh320/374; W)
With its funky design – a central, plant-filled atrium criss-crossed by stairways – and good location one block from the beach, this is Martil’s best sleeping option. Riffian textiles and green paint brighten things up. The best rooms have balconies overlooking the sea, and the restaurant serves alcohol.
Camping al-BoustaneCAMPGROUND€
(fax 0539 68 88 22; Corniche; camping per person Dh20, per tent/car/campervan Dh40/20/35, electricity Dh25; hoffice 7.30am-noon & 7-11pm; Ws)
This secure campsite is one block from the beach, set in a pretty garden. Facilities are showing their age, but it does have a reasonable fish restaurant (mains from Dh75) and a pool in summer. There are serious drainage problems when it rains. Turn off the corniche at the fountain.
Le GuayanaMOROCCAN€
(Corniche; salads Dh35, pizzas Dh45)
One of a number of restaurants on the beach, Le Guayana serves juices, decent salads and ice cream as well as the usual burgers, pizzas and paninis.
8Getting There & Away
Local buses to Tetouan (Dh5, 15 minutes) leave from the bus station near the water tower at the southern end of the beach. You’ll find grands taxis to Tetouan (Dh7, 10 minutes) near the big mosque.
THE CANNABIS INDUSTRY
Morocco is the largest producer of cannabis in the world, and most of it comes from the Rif. Almost 420 sq km of the region is under cultivation, with 700 tonnes of cannabis resin produced every year. European demand has soared to the point where profits have seen many regular farmers switch from traditional agriculture to cannabis (known in Morocco as kif). Put bluntly, kif production is the region's main economic activity. Alternative income projects, such as rural tourism, have been difficult to promote in the face of such economic dominance.
Cannabis cultivation started around Ketama in the 15th century. In 1912 the right to cultivate cannabis was granted to a few Rif tribes by Spain. In 1956, when Morocco gained independence, cannabis was prohibited, but Mohammed V later condoned cultivation in the Rif after the prohibition led to conflict there.
Most large shipments of Moroccan hashish (a concentrated form of marijuana) are smuggled into Europe by boat, including small speedboats that can make a round trip to Spain in an hour. The primary departure points are Martil, Oued Laou and Bou Ahmed, although
the bigger ports of Nador, Tetouan, Tangier and Larache are also used. Traffickers also export hashish concealed in trucks and cars embarked on ferries leaving from the Spanish enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla or from Tangier. Not surprisingly, of all hashish seizures worldwide, half are made in Spain. There is much collaboration between traffickers and gangs smuggling Africans migrants to Europe.
Cannabis remains illegal in Morocco, although in 2016 several opposition parties called for its legalisation.
Chefchaouen شفشاون
Pop 42,800
Beautifully perched beneath the raw peaks of the Rif, Chefchaouen is one of the prettiest towns in Morocco, an artsy, blue-washed mountain village that feels like its own world. While tourism has definitely taken hold, the balance between ease and authenticity is just right. The old medina is a delight of Moroccan and Andalucian influence with red-tiled roofs, bright-blue buildings and narrow lanes converging on busy Plaza Uta el-Hammam and its restored kasbah. Long known to backpackers for the easy availability of kif (cannabis), the town has rapidly gentrified and offers a range of quality accommodation, good food, lots to do and no hassles to speak of, making it a strong alternative to a hectic multicity tour. This is a great place to relax, explore and take day trips to the cool green hills.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 48