Imperial Cities
Fez
City Walk
Sefrou
Bhalil
Meknes
Volubilis (Oualili)
Moulay Idriss
Middle Atlas
Ifrane
Azrou
Midelt
Around Midelt
Taza
Fez, Meknès and the Middle Atlas
Why Go?
Humble villages and gentle mountain trails offer a charming counterpoint to imperial cities and ancient ruins in this area of Morocco. The fertile plains of the north have acted as Morocco’s breadbasket for centuries. The Romans left remains at Volubilis, followed in turn by Muslim dynasties who created Morocco’s grandest imperial city: Fez.
The narrow streets of the Fez medina are a true assault on the senses and this region's major drawcard. Meknès, another old imperial capital, offers a slightly more pocket-sized experience but some epic relics from Moulay Ismail's reign. Nearby, the picturesque pilgrimage town of Moulay Idriss – for centuries off-limits to non-Muslims – still quietly exerts a mystical force but remains little-visited.
The Middle Atlas, home to the Barbary macaque, rise to the south: the area is made for tranquil ambles and forest picnics. Across the mountains, Morocco's distinctive kasbahs begin to make an appearance – a sure sign that the southern desert isn’t far away.
When to Go
AApr Perfect spring weather and markets full of orange blossom scenting the air; the best time to visit Volubilis.
AJun Hit Fez for the Festival of World Sacred Music.
ASep Summer’s heat has burned off making for perfect sightseeing conditions.
Best Places to Eat
A Ruined Garden
A Café Clock
A Dar El Mandar
A Dar Hatim
A Hôtel des Cèdres
Best Places to Sleep
A Ryad Mabrouka
A Funky Fes
A Ryad Bahia
A Dar Kamal Chaoui
A Dar El Mandar
Fez, Meknès & Middle Atlas Highlights
1 Fez Diving into the warren of this ancient city's medina looking for souqs and souvenirs, and enjoying the sound of the sublime at the Festival of World Sacred Music.
2 Volubilis Time travelling through Morocco's finest Roman ruins, strewn with spectacular floor mosaics.
3 Meknès Exploring the outsized imperial architecture that characterised mighty Moulay Ismail's reign.
4 Moulay Idriss Spending a day and night on pilgrimage in this holy town.
5 Ifrane National Park Hiking in the rolling Middle Atlas mountains around Ifrane and Azrou, perhaps catching sight of a native monkey or two.
6 Bhalil Making like a troglodyte with a stay in this hilltop village famed for its cave dwellers.
Imperial Cities
Fez فاس
Pop 1,150,131
An ancient breeding ground for scholars and artisans, imams and gourmands – Fez is a supremely self-confident city with a historical and cultural lineage that beguiles visitors. And there is something intangibly raw about a place where 70,000 people still choose to live in the maelstrom of a medina so dark, dense and dilapidated that it remains the world's largest car-free urban area. Donkeys cart goods down the warren of alleyways as they have done since medieval times, and ruinous pockets loom around every corner – though a government drive to restore Fès el-Bali to its former glory is spurring changes.
Fez’ medina can seem like it's in a state of perpetual pandemonium; some visitors fall instantly in love and others recoil in horror. But its charms are many. Seemingly blind alleys lead to squares with exquisite fountains and streets bursting with aromatic food stands, rooftops unveil a sea of minarets, and stooped doorways reveal the workshops of tireless artisans.
History
In AD 789, Idriss I – who founded Morocco’s first imperial dynasty – decided that Oualili (Volubilis) was too small and drew up plans for a grand new capital. He died before the plans were implemented, however, so credit for the founding of Fez is given to his son, Idriss II, who carried out the will of his father. The memory of Idriss II is perpetuated in his zawiya (religious shrine) in the heart of Fès el-Bali.
The city started as a modest Berber town, but then 8000 families fleeing Muslim Spain and Portugal settled the east bank of the Oued Fez. They were later joined by Arab families from Kairouan (Qayrawan) in modern-day Tunisia, who took over the west bank, creating the Kairaouine quarter. The heritages of these two peoples formed a solid foundation for future religious, cultural and architectural richness. Idriss II’s heirs split the kingdom, but Fez continued to enjoy peace and prosperity until the 10th century.
Over the next centuries, the fortunes of Fez rose and fell with the dynasties. Civil war and famine – incited by Berber invasions – were relieved only by the rise of the Almoravids. When that dynasty fell from power around 1154, they fled Fez and destroyed the city walls as they went. Only when the succeeding Almohad dynasty was assured of the Fassis’ loyalty were the walls replaced – large sections still date from this period.
Fez continued to be a crucial crossroads, wielding intellectual rather than political influence. With the Kairaouine Mosque and University already well established, it was the centre of learning and culture in an empire stretching from Spain to Senegal. It recovered its political status only much later, with the arrival of the Merenid dynasty around 1250.
During the 19th century, as central power crumbled and European interference increased, the distinction between Marrakesh and Fez diminished, with both effectively serving as capitals of a fragmented country. Fez retained its status as the spiritual capital. It was here, on 30 March 1912, that the treaty introducing the French and Spanish protectorates over Morocco was signed. Less than three weeks later, rioting and virtual revolt against the new masters served as a reminder of the city’s volatility.
The French may have moved the political capital to Rabat, but Fez remains a constituency to be reckoned with. The city’s allegiance, or at least submission, has always been essential to whoever held Morocco’s throne. Morocco’s independence movement was born here, and when there are strikes or protests, they are often at their most vociferous in Fez.
As one of Morocco’s most traditional cities, Fez is generally regarded with a certain amount of awe, perhaps tinged with jealousy, by the rest of the country. Indeed, a disproportionate share of Morocco’s intellectual and economic elite hail from here and it’s a widely held belief (especially among Fassis) that anyone born in the Fez medina is more religious, cultured, artistic and refined; the fact that the king’s wife, Princess Lalla Salma is from Fez, and the royal family spend much time here is a source of great pride for the city.
Fez
1Top Sights
1Ibn Danan SynagogueB3
2Royal PalaceB3
3Rue des MérinidesB3
1Sights
4American FondoukC3
5Jewish CemeteryB3
6MellahB3
4Sleeping
7Hotel SahraiC4
5Eating
8Kaï TaïA6
9MB Restaurant LoungeA6
6Drinking & Nightlife
10Café Restaurant La NoriaC2
MBA6
11MezzanineC2
1Sights
Travelling from the ville nouvelle to Fès el-Bali is like stepping back in time. The essential footprint of the medina hasn’t changed in nearly a millennium, as the surrounding hills have constrained expansion – the last big growth of the traditional medina was in the 13th century with the construction of Fès el-Jdid. Today, around 156,000 Fassis still call this maze of twisting alleys, blind turns and hidden souqs home, while tourists call it one of the most mind-boggling places they’ll visit in Morocco.
Bab Bou Jeloud in the west is the main entrance to the old city, with two main streets descending into the medina’s heart. On your left as you enter is Talaa Kebira (B
ig Slope), with Talaa Seghira (Little Slope) on your right. Both converge near Pl an-Nejjarine, continuing to the Kairaouine Mosque and Zawiya Moulay Idriss II – the heart of the city. From here, it’s uphill to reach the northern gates of Bab Guissa and Bab Jamaï, or head south towards Bab R’cif. The R’cif area has undergone a big facelift with a smart new gate and refurbished square and the river is being upgraded. R'cif is likely to provide an alternate focus for the medina.
The major sights are really only a small part of the charm of the medina. It pays to do a little random exploration, and simply follow your nose or ears to discover the most unexpected charms of Fez’ nature. Following your nose will lead you to women with bundles of freshly cut herbs, children carrying trays of loaves to be baked in the local bakery or a cafe selling glasses of spiced Berber coffee. Around the next corner you might find a beautifully tiled fountain, a workshop hammering pots, a camel’s head announcing a specialist butcher, or just a gang of kids turning their alley into a football pitch. Everywhere, listen out for the call to prayer or the mule driver’s cry 'balak!' ('look out!') to warn of the approach of a heavily laden pack animal.
Navigation can be confusing and getting lost at some stage is a certainty, but look at this as part of the adventure. A handy tip is to note the ‘main’ streets that eventually lead to a gate or landmark – just follow the general flow of people. Ask shopkeepers for directions, or you can fall back on the eager kids happy to rescue confused foreigners – though the remuneration they expect can be steep.
Fez Medina
1Top Sights
1Chaouwara TanneriesE2
2Jnan Sbil (Bou Jeloud Gardens)A5
3Medersa Bou InaniaB4
4Medersa el-AttarineE3
5Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & CraftsD3
1Sights
6Batha MuseumB4
7Borj NordA2
8Bou Jeloud SquareA4
9Henna SouqD3
10Kairaouine Mosque & UniversityE3
11Merenid TombsC1
12Palais GlaouiD5
2Activities, Courses & Tours
Clock KitchenB4
13Dar Namir Gastronomic RetreatsF4
Fez DownloadB4
14Hammam MernissiB4
15Hammam RihabC3
Le Jardin des BiehnC4
16Palais AmaniE2
17Plan-it MoroccoC5
Riad FèsC4
Riad LaaroussaC3
Riad Maison BleueB3
18Ruined GardenC4
19Subul AssalamD4
4Sleeping
20Dar AttajaliD2
21Dar BensoudaD4
22Dar BouânaniaB3
23Dar El HanaC3
24Dar el MeniaC3
25Dar Fes MedinaD5
26Dar FinnC3
27Dar JannatC4
28Dar RoumanaD2
29Dar SeffarineE3
30Funky FesE6
31Hôtel Bab BoujloudB4
32Hôtel BathaB4
33Hôtel CascadeB4
34Palais FarajD5
35Pension CampiniB5
36Riad FèsC4
37Riad IdrissyC4
38Riad LaaroussaC3
39Riad Les OudayasC5
40Riad Lune et SoleilC5
41Riad Maison BleueB3
42Ryad MabroukaB3
43Ryad SalamaC3
5Eating
44B'sara StallsB4
45Café ClockB4
46Dar HatimE2
47Famille Restaurant BerradaD2
48Fez CaféC4
Jawarat Bab BoujloudB4
L'Amandier, Palais FarajD5
49Le 44B3
Le KasbahB4
50Moi AnanC3
51R'cif MarketE3
Restaurant Dar RoumanaD2
52Restaurant Riad al AndalibE4
Ruined GardenC4
53Snail StandC3
Talaa Kebira Market
6Drinking & Nightlife
54Abdullah'sE3
55Cremerie La PlaceE3
Hôtel BathaB4
Riad FèsC4
7Shopping
56Médin ArtC3
8Information
57Banque PopulaireC3
58Pharmacie Du MarocB4
59Société GénéraleB4
The Medina (Fès el-Bali)
Bou Jeloud SquareSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; p)
This square on the edge of the medina comes into its own at dusk, when locals emerge to stroll and chat. Concerts and a few storytellers sometimes pop up here, but it will never be Djemaa el-Fna.
oMedersa Bou InaniaISLAMIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Talaa Kebira; Dh20; h9am-5pm, closed during prayers)
A short walk down Talaa Kebira from Bab Bou Jeloud, the Medersa Bou Inania is the finest of Fez’ theological colleges. It was built by the Merenid sultan Bou Inan between 1351 and 1357, and has been impressively restored with elaborate zellij (tiles) and carved plaster, beautiful cedar mashrabiyyas (lattice screens) and massive brass entrance doors. Whereas most medersas just have a simple prayer hall, the Bou Inania is unusual in that it hosts a complete mosque.
The mihrab (niche facing Mecca) has a particularly fine ceiling and onyx marble columns. It’s thought that the medersa required a larger-scale mosque because there was none other nearby at the time; it includes a beautiful green-tiled minaret.
oNejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & CraftsMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 74 05 80; Pl an-Nejjarine; Dh20; h10am-5pm)
This museum is in a wonderfully restored fondouq (rooming house) – a caravanserai for travelling merchants who stored and sold their goods below and took lodgings on the floors above. Centred on a courtyard, the rooms are given over to displays of traditional artefacts of craftsmen’s tools, chunky prayer beads and Berber locks, chests and musical instruments. Everything is beautifully presented, although the stunning building gives the exhibits a run for their money. The rooftop cafe has great views over the medina. Photography is forbidden.
Henna SouqMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Lfakharine)
This souq, off Talaa Kebira, is one of the medina's oldest marketplaces. It's dominated by a huge graceful plane tree shading stalls selling ceramics and traditional cosmetics, including henna. This is a good place to come if you'd like to be talked through the fascinating array of natural products Moroccans routinely use – stall-holders are friendly and offer little hassle. The mohtassib (price-controller), now defunct, had his office here and you can still see his large scales.
Kairaouine Mosque & UniversityMOSQUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
One of Africa’s largest mosques and possibly the oldest university in the world, this complex is the spiritual heart of Fez and Morocco itself. It's so large that it can be difficult to actually see: over the centuries the streets and houses of the Kairaouine quarter have encroached on the building so much they disguise its true shape. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but the university library has recently been impressively restored and opened to the public in 2016.
In the meantime, tourists will have to be content with glimpses of the mosque's courtyard from the main door on Derb Boutouil. Better still, take the view from any vantage point over the medina: the huge green pyramidal roof and minaret immediately announce their presence. The entrance to the library is at the other side of the complex, on Pl Seffarine.
The complex was established in 859 by Fatima el-Fihria, a female Tunisian refugee, and expanded by the Almoravids in the 12th century, and can accommodate up to 20,000 people at prayer.
oMedersa el-AttarineISLAMIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dh20; h9am-5pm)
Founded by Abu Said in 1325 in the heart of the medina, the Attarine was designed as an annexe to the nearby Kairaouine. The central courtyard displays the traditional patterns of Merenid artisanship, with magnificent zellij, carved plaster and cedar wood. Onyx columns flank the mihrab. Slightly smaller than the Medersa Bou Inania, it has been sensitive
ly restored.
oChaouwara TanneriesWORKSHOP
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Derb Chaouwara, Blida)
The Chaouwara tanneries are one of the city’s most iconic sights (and smells), offering a unique window into the pungent, natural process of producing world-class leather using methods that have changed little since medieval times. In 2015–16 they underwent a year-long restoration to spruce up the crumbling environs surrounding the pits, including the viewing terraces, but fear not – the tanneries' atmosphere remains intact. Try to get here in the morning when the pits are awash with coloured dye.
Causing much frustration for visitors, the only way to see the tanneries in action is to dive into the lair of one of the many leather shops built into the walls surrounding the site. Displaying typical Fassi ingenuity, each shop has a terrace out back offering a different vantage point of the action – door No. 10 on Derb Chaouwara (keep an eye out for the number above the doorway) has one of the best views.
Salesmen will happily give an explanation of the processes involved and will expect a small tip in return or, even better, a sale. While this might feel a little commercialised, you probably won’t find a better selection of leather in Morocco, and prices are as good as you’ll get. The leather shops form a cooperative with the tannery workers and many of the salesmen are relatives of those doing the hard graft below.
Heading east or northeast from Pl as-Seffarine, you’ll soon pick up the unmistakable waft of skin and dye that will guide you into the heart of the leather district. Beware the persistent touts, who will pounce on you as soon as you get within sniffing distance of the streets surrounding the tanneries: it is completely unnecessary to hire one and if you let a tout lead you into a shop, you'll pay more for anything you happen to buy there, to pay for his commission.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 56