Taxis do not hang about at Volubilis and there are no buses, so it's best to make arrangements with the taxi driver for your return journey as well.
If the weather isn’t too hot, it’s a lovely one-hour walk (one way) between Moulay Idriss and Volubilis.
Moulay Idriss مولاي ادريس
Pop 11,615
The whitewashed town of Moulay Idriss sits astride two green hills in a cradle of mountains slightly less than 5km from Volubilis, and is one of the country’s most important pilgrimage sites. Given its picturesque setting, pretty historic core and national importance, it's a mystery why more tourists don't visit. The good news is that its lack of popularity means you can often have the place all to yourself.
Moulay Idriss’ holy status kept it closed to non-Muslims until 1912 and it wasn't until 2005 that non-Muslims were allowed to stay overnight in the town. Its previous inaccessibility has helped protect the town's peaceful way of life and those who do stay are invariably charmed. Appealing local guesthouses cater to visitors and while it's no longer a safe haven from Morocco's dreaded tourist touts, it's still a relaxed place with a centre free of carpet shops.
The town is named for Moulay Idriss, a great-grandson of the Prophet Mohammed, the founder of the country’s first real dynasty, Morocco's first Islamic leader, and its most revered saint. His tomb is at the heart of the town, and is the focus of the country’s largest moussem every August.
Moulay Idriss fled Mecca in the late 8th century in the face of persecution at the hands of the recently installed Abbasid caliphate, which was based in Baghdad. Idriss settled at Volubilis, where he converted the locals to Islam, and made himself their leader, establishing the Idrissid dynasty.
1Sights
Mausoleum of Moulay IdrissMAUSOLEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; Pl Mohammed VI)
The Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss is Morocco's most important pilgrimage site and the town is swamped every August during the annual moussem to venerate it; it’s said locally that five pilgrimages to Moulay Idriss during the moussem equals one haj to Mecca. The entrance is located at the top of the town's main square, via a three-arched gateway surrounded by shops selling religious trinkets – non-Muslims cannot enter beyond the inner barrier, but it's worth a peak inside the grand entrance.
Moulay Ismail created this pilgrimage site by building the mausoleum and moving the body of Moulay Idriss during the late 17th and early 18th century, in a successful attempt to rally the support of the faithful.
Grande & Petite TerrassesVIEWPOINT
( GOOGLE MAP )
These lofty medina vantage points provide stunning views over Moulay Idriss and the green-roofed mausoleum. The Grande Terrasse is broader and better for capturing panoramic vistas of the hilltop town and surrounding landscape on camera. Both terraces are difficult to find on your own; keep heading uphill and you'll get near, but you may have to ask a local to help you get to the exact spots. Dar Zerhoune has a handy map.
Cylindrical MinaretMOSQUE
( GOOGLE MAP ; off Rue Ain Fakra)
Moulay Idriss' green-tiled cylindrical minaret, built in 1939, is unique and worth a look. Although it's located inside the medina it's easy to find if you skirt around the western edge heading uphill (passing a communal olive press on your right) until you reach the Boulangerie Patisserie Moulay Idriss. Here, turn right into the medina, veer left as you climb uphill and you'll find it.
zFestivals & Events
Moussem of Moulay IdrissRELIGIOUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; hlate Aug)
Morocco's greatest annual moussem is held every August in the pilgrimage town of Moulay Idriss, which holds the tomb of Morocco's first Islamic ruler. The pilgrimage is accompanied by fantasias, markets and music; so important is the event that it sometimes attracts royalty. The town's guesthouses are crammed during the moussem, so book well ahead if you plan to attend.
4Sleeping & Eating
Rooms are at a premium during the moussem, so book in advance.
The cheap food stands around the main square are all good for a quick snack. The grilled kefta with salad is something of a local speciality.
La Colombe BlancheGUESTHOUSE€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 54 45 96; www.maisondhote-zerhoune.ma; 21 Derb Zouak Tazgha; s/d incl breakfast Dh250/400; aW)
A traditional home turned guesthouse – the family occupies a portion of this rambling house so they're always on hand to help. Rooms are decent, there are multiple terraces with lovely hill views, and Colombe Blanche also bills itself as a restaurant serving home-cooked meals (menus Dh60 to Dh120 – call ahead to book). At the mausoleum, turn right uphill and follow the signs.
Hotel Diyar TimnayHOTEL€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 54 44 00; [email protected]; 7 Aïn Rjal; s/d incl breakfast Dh160/240; a)
Near the grands-taxis stands, this is Moulay Idriss's only hotel but it suffers from an air of neglect and the pong of cigarette smoke. The simple rooms mostly have en suites, although a few have separate (but still private) bathrooms. The enclosed 'terrace' restaurant (mains Dh70) has great hill views but feels a bit soulless. Timnay's saving grace is that it's cheap.
oDar InesGUESTHOUSE€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 54 49 07; www.dar-ines.com; 57 Hay Tazga, Derb Amjout; s/d incl breakfast from Dh350/440; W)S
This grand guesthouse with terrace views over the main square is actually two dars knocked together, offering seven traditional rooms with solar-heated showers, wrapped around two staircases. House manager Sahid is super helpful and his care and attention elevates this dar above the competition. In-house meals are excellent (guests/nonguests Dh120/140 – book ahead), and the owners offer craft courses and trekking excursions.
The only downside (if you're bothered by this sort of thing) is that wi-fi is restricted to one small downstairs salon.
Dar ZerhouneGUESTHOUSE€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %06 42 24 77 93; www.darzerhoune.com; 42 Derb Zouak Tazgha; s/d incl breakfast Dh410/620; W)
To the right uphill from the mausoleum, this gem of a guesthouse has taken a left-field approach to dar decorating, with a refreshing white colour scheme in place of the dark wood, accented by pops of bright colour. The Kiwi owner offers tours, bike hire and cooking lessons, and you can book a meal on the panoramic terrace even if you're not staying there.
Grillade AlbannaKEBAB€
( GOOGLE MAP ; off Pl Mohammed VI; kefta Dh30; h11am-9pm)
Moulay Idriss is known for its kefta and this simple grillhouse just off the town's main square is a local favourite. Take a people-watching seat while you wait for your meat to be grilled to order; the kefta is fresh, packed with flavour and served simply with grilled tomatoes, fresh bread and ground chilli.
8Information
There is a Banque Populaire ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Ain Fakra; h8.15am-3.45pm Mon-Fri) uphill from the grand taxi rank, where the road forks just before the main square.
Pharmacie du Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; Pl Mohammed VI; h9am-2pm & 4-8.30pm Mon-Sat) is conveniently located on Moulay Idriss' main square, Pl Mohammed VI.
8Getting There & Away
Grands taxis (Dh10, 20 minutes) to Moulay Idriss leave Meknès from outside the Institut Français. The red city bus, (15) runs from Bab el-Mansour in Meknès to Moulay Idriss (Dh7) throughout the day – you will not be able to catch a bus from the bus station.
Taxis leave Moulay Idriss from a stand at the bottom of town on the main road. If you want to get to Fez, you'll have to go via Meknès.
Middle Atlas
South of Fez and Meknès, the low-rise Middle Atlas mountains come into play. Oak and cedar forests create refreshing pockets of woodland and easy hiking terrain, connecting the dots between Berber hill towns and villages. Further south, towards Midelt, the forests give way to dramatic barren slopes as the desert calls.
Ifrane ا فران
Pop 14,659
As foreign tourists head to the medinas for a taste of the ‘real’ Morocco, Moroccan tourists find mo
re favour with places such as Ifrane. Tidy, ordered and modern, it feels more like Switzerland relocated to the Middle Atlas than North Africa. Its clean air, scrubbed streets and leafy outlook make it popular with tour groups.
The French built Ifrane in the 1930s, deliberately trying to re-create an alpine-style resort. It has neat red-roofed houses, blooming flower beds and lake-studded parks. It is a popular summer day trip for picnickers; in the winter, the affluent flock here to ski, and the hoi polloi come for the pure fun of throwing snowballs.
The main road from Meknès is called Blvd Mohammed V and it runs through Ifrane from west to east. Most of the cafes and hotels are clustered in the centre along Rue de la Cascade and Ave de la Poste, close to the stone lion statue.
The nature around Ifrane is more alluring than the town itself. The woods of the national park virtually encroach on the urban area, and the region to the north is splashed with serene lakes.
1Sights & Activities
The lake- and wood-studded countryside around Ifrane, and particularly to the north, is good for horse riding, hiking and birdwatching. Le Gîte Dayet Aoua makes an excellent base from which to organise reasonably priced tours.
Stone LionMONUMENT
(Av Hassan II)
Ifrane’s cult landmark is the stone lion that sits on a patch of grass near the Hôtel Chamonix. It was carved by a German soldier during WWII, when Ifrane was used briefly as a prisoner-of-war camp, in exchange for the prisoner's freedom – or so the story goes – and commemorates the last wild Atlas lion, which was shot near here in the early 1920s. Having your picture taken with the lion is something of a ritual for Moroccan day trippers.
4Sleeping
Hotel prices in Ifrane reflect the town’s affluence, and its year-round popularity means demand for rooms runs high – particularly with tour groups. If you're on a budget, you'd be better off staying in Azrou.
Hotel les TilleulsHOTEL€€
(%0535 56 66 58, 06 61 16 11 86; [email protected]; cnr Ave des Tilluels & Rue de la Cascade; s/d Dh300/400)S
The cheapest hotel in Ifrane has been welcoming guests since 1935. These days it's a bit frayed around the edges and the owners know it: a series of renovations are underway but could take years to complete. In the meantime its selling points are large, en-suite rooms and its convenient location on the corner of Ifrane's main square.
Thursday to Saturday a nightclub takes up residence here, and the hotel has a bar.
Hôtel ChamonixHOTEL€€
(%0535 56 60 28; [email protected]; Ave de la Mare Verte; s/d incl breakfast Dh489/557; aW)
Right across the street from Ifrane's stone lion, this three-star place is well maintained and centrally located. Rooms are bright and spacious, if a little bland, with attached bathrooms and central heating. There’s also a decent restaurant and bar. During the snow season, expect prices hikes of 15% to 20%.
Michlifen IfraneLUXURY HOTEL€€€
(%0535 86 40 00; www.michlifenifrane.com; off Ave Hassan II; low-/high-season r from Dh2500/4600; paWs)
Overlooking Ifrane from the north, this oversized ski lodge is one of Morocco’s most luxurious hotels. Local cedar is evident throughout the rather dark interior, with rooms echoing a luxury chalet. The view from the pool is sublime and you can even fish in the river that runs through the hotel grounds. There's also a sumptuous bar and a restaurant.
Hôtel Perce-NeigeHOTEL€€€
(%0535 56 64 04; [email protected]; Rue des Asphodelles; s/d incl breakfast Dh650/810, ste Dh1000-1350; aW)
A pretty accommodation option down a leafy street about 200m southeast of the centre. The rooms could be a bit bigger and some are a little faded for the price, but they’re very comfortable and come with satellite TV and bathrooms. Those at the front with balcony can be a bit noisy. The licensed restaurant is a good dining option (mains Dh80 to Dh150).
Out Of Town
oLe Gîte Dayet AouaLODGE€
(%0535 61 05 75; www.gite-dayetaoua.com; Dayet Aoua; 8-person dm/d/ste incl breakfast Dh100/300/400; ps)
This delightfully rustic lodge offers comfortable rooms with bathroom, all decorated in local Berber style. There's a pool, an apple orchard, a Berber tent and a detached Moroccan salon with log fire, too. Have a few days of internet detox (there's no wi-fi here) and go cycling, horse riding or walking. Food is excellent Amazigh cuisine; enquire about half-board options and picnic lunches (Dh120).
If you're on a tight budget, the owner can organise mountain guides for Dh300 per day, which is half the price of an official Middle Atlas mountain guide.
5Eating & Drinking
Virtually all the hotels in town have a bar that serves alcohol, and there's a nightclub (Thursday to Saturday) at Hotel les Tilleuls.
La PaixCAFE€
(Ave de la Mare Verte; h9am-10pm; W)
Go ahead and rub your eyes, because you won't believe you're in Morocco once you've crossed the threshold of this upmarket cafe-patisserie. First there's the astroturfed outdoor patio with garden furniture; then there's the wide glass frontage and minimalist white interior to behold. La Paix is situated just up from the Hôtel Chamonix – come for a breakfast of croissant and coffee.
Forest RestaurantINTERNATIONAL€€
(cnr Ave del Porte & Rue de la Cascade; mains Dh55-150; h7.30am-11pm Mon-Fri, to midnight Sat & Sun; W)
This chilled-out cafe attracts Ifrane's wealthy university students and it's a little on the pricey side, but if your Western palate is craving some decent international food, Forest is a treat. Start the day with eggs or croissants, or come later on for burgers, excellent pasta and pizzas; finish off with a warming dessert such as apple crumble.
8Information
BMCE (Ave de la Mare Verte; h8.30am-4pm) One of several banks with ATMs on this road.
Délégation Provinciale du Tourism (Tourism Office; %0535 56 68 21; Ave Prince Moulay Abdallah; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) If you're lucky, you might be able to pick up a map from Ifrane's tourist office, but set your expectations low.
Pharmacie Michliffen (Rue de la Cascade; h9am-1pm & 3-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Around the corner from Forest Restaurant.
Post Office (Ave de la Poste; h8am-4.15pm Mon-Fri) Just uphill from La Paix cafe and Hôtel Chamonix. Has an ATM.
8Getting There & Away
The new Gare Routière is south of town and services both CTM and local buses. The station has a cafe and left luggage.
Each morning and evening, CTM buses leave for Marrakesh (Dh155, eight hours) via Beni Mellal. There's a daily 9am departure for Casablanca (Dh120, five hours) via Meknès (Dh25, one hour) and Rabat (Dh90, 3½ hours).
There are frequent daily non-CTM bus departures to Fez, Azrou and Khenifra, as well as four daily to Marrakesh, five daily to Rabat and one daily to Casablanca, at 1pm.
Grands taxis also congregate at the bus station; they go to Fez or Meknès (Dh30) and Azrou (Dh9). Grands taxis to Dayet Aoua can be hired privately for Dh250, or it'll cost Dh600 for a full day trip of the Lake Circuit.
WORTH A TRIP
IFRANE NATIONAL PARK
This 500 sq km park encompasses Ifrane and Azrou as well as numerous Berber villages. It is known for its Atlas cedar trees and the Barbary macaque, an endangered species, and some 30 other mammals including wild pigs and wolves up on the high plateaus.
Bird life is exceptional and includes red kite, marbled teal, and common kestrel. Two Ramsar wetland sites and the lakes Dayet Ifrah and Dayet Aoua support ruddy shelduck and various coots. The lakes themselves, particularly those north of Ifrane, make for scenic touring and are popular with local day trippers from Meknès and Fez. Gentle hiking is the main pastime here.
Around Ifrane
Dayet AouaLAKE
North of Ifrane, Dayet Aoua is surrounded by woodlands in an area notably rich in bird life. The lake is a popular picnic destination for families on weekends, but during the week you’ll get it largely to yourself. In summer the water all but dries up and locals tr
ot around the lake bed on horseback. At other times you can rent pedalos here, and year round it makes a good bike circuit. From Ifrane, a one-way taxi to the lake costs about Dh250.
The lake attracts significant numbers of ducks and waders, including crested coot, woodpeckers, tree creepers and nuthatches, which flit among the trees around the southeastern end of the lake. Also keep an eye out for raptors, including booted eagles, black and red kites and harriers.
Lake CircuitSCENIC DRIVE
A pretty diversion north of Ifrane is the lake circuit around Dayet Aoua. Signposted off the main Fez road 17km north of Ifrane, the route winds for 60km through the lake country between the P24 and P20. If you don’t have your own vehicle, hiring a grand taxi in Ifrane for a day trip of this route should cost about Dh600.
Beyond Dayet Aoua, the road loops east and then south, skirting past small Dayet Hechlaf Ifrah and then Dayet Ifrah. Although this trip is billed as a scenic drive, the joy of the area is to get out and walk along the lake shore and enjoy the tranquillity of the scenery. This is an area made for hikers and mountain bikers. Note that the road is paved but a bit scarred in some parts, and liable to be snowbound in winter.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 65