Her name was thus given to the village that preceded Sultan Moulay al-Hassan’s 19th-century fortress town. The adjacent citadel is undergoing careful restoration and is also worthy of a quick stroll. Nearby are more jewellery and Berber crafts shops.
4Sleeping
Hotels are gathered around the large roundabout to the southeast of Bab Oulad Jarrar, with a few options in the medina.
Maison Du SoleilGUESTHOUSE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0672 311 353; www.facebook.com/maisondusoleiltiznit; 470 Rue Tafoukt; r incl breakfast Dh350; W)
In a residential area in the northwestern medina, the 'House of the Sun' fulfills its name on the rooftop terrace and the two spacious en-suite rooms adjoining it. The rooms with shared bathrooms downstairs are more prosaic, but host Sliman is friendly and super-organised. The bright interior decor is a colourful surprise just metres from the medina's neutral walls.
Bab el MaaderGUESTHOUSE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0673 90 73 14; www.bab-el-maader.com; 132 Rue El Haj Ali; r Dh330; hSep-Jun)
This traditional house in the medina is one of Tiznit’s best addresses, a five-room guesthouse with a courtyard, plenty of great decorative touches and good use of Moroccan fabrics and materials. The French-Moroccan team can give pointers and arrange trips in the region.
Riad Le LieuGUESTHOUSE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 600 019; [email protected]; 273 Impasse Issaoui; r/ste/apt Dh220/290/320; W)
Five double rooms and suites and a four–person apartment share this former courthouse with the restaurant of the same name. One suite has a private shower, but otherwise the rooms and suites share bathrooms. Rooms are poky, but the warm welcome and copious breakfast (Dh30) make this a relaxing haven in the medina.
Hotel TiznitHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 86 24 11; tiznit–[email protected]; Ave Bir Anzarane; s/d Dh260/350; Ws)
Set in leafy grounds with a large pool, Tiznit is unexciting and a little rundown but comfortable and welcoming. The pink rooms are reasonably spacious with TV and small bathroom.
Hôtel de ParisHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 86 28 65; www.hoteldeparis.ma; Ave Hassan II; s/d Dh120/160; aW)
The rooms with en suites are clean but simple, and a friendly welcome and a handy cafe-restaurant downstairs makes Hôtel de Paris a good choice if you're just overnighting between buses.
Hôtel des TouristesHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 86 20 18; Pl al-Méchouar; s/d from Dh50/90; W)
This welcoming 1st-floor hotel is a dependable, central budget option. Rooms are entered from a quiet, cheerful communal area with a book exchange; those overlooking Pl al-Méchouar have small balconies, but all lack fans. The room next to the flush toilet is particularly hot and noisy.
Camping MunicipalCAMPGROUND€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 60 13 54; Bab Oulad Jarrar; per person Dh36)
The municipal campground is next to the old walls.
oRiad JanoubGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0679 00 55 10; www.riadjanoub.com; 193 Rue de la Grande Mosquée; r incl breakfast from Dh750; aWs)
French couple Gilbert and Claudine are attentive hosts in this modern riad, which has Moroccan and European salons, a massage room, a hammam and a roof terrace, all overlooking the pool and garden of palms and cacti. The six comfortable rooms, including a wheelchair-accessible option, have soft colour schemes, rugs and traditional trimmings.
Hôtel Al AmalHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 862 462; 465 Ave Bir Anzarane; s/d incl breakfast Dh400/450; W)
Tiznit's newest hotel features spotless, if slightly compact, rooms, a good cafe downstairs and a rooftop pizza restaurant. Decor combines calming neutral tones and the colourful accent of Moroccan art. The Al Amal had only opened for six months when we visited; get in before the telltale odour of secondhand cigarette smoke takes hold.
5Eating
Restaurant Al AmalMOROCCAN, PIZZA€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 862 462; 465 Ave Bir Anzarane; mains Dh30-50; h8am-11pm; W)
Tiznit's newest hotel also hosts a couple of good eating options pitched at a higher level than most of the city's other cafes and restaurants. Seafood, tagines and good pasta are the standouts, the downstairs cafe is known for good breakfasts, and the Al Amal's rooftop terrace has pizza-enhanced views of Tiznit's busy main intersection.
La Ville NouvelleCAFE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 17 Ave du 20 Août; mains Dh30-66; h7am-9pm; W)
At this popular multistorey cafe, brisk waiters serve the classic salads, brochettes, tajines and kefta (spiced lamb or beef meatballs). It's also a top spot for a coffee, some of Tiznit's best French-style baked goods, and there's even a special nonsmoking floor.
Snack StandsFAST FOOD€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; snacks from Dh5; h11am-10pm)
Along Ave Sidi Abderhman, the main road through the medina.
oÀ l'Ombre du FiguierMOROCCAN, INTERNATIONAL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 861 204; www.facebook.com/ombredufiguier; 22 Passage Akchouch, Quartier Idzakri; mains Dh60-75; h11.30am-3pm & 6-10pm)
Follow the signs through alleyways and under low doorways to one of southern Morocco's best restaurants. Colourful tables are arrayed under the dappled shade of a sprawling fig tree, and the concise menu offers just five meat or seafood dishes. Chicken, beef, shrimps and calamari all feature, and side dishes include a delicious cucumber and melon soup or Moroccan salad.
Definitely leave room for dessert of chocolate mousse or chilled pineapple gazpacho.
Riad Le LieuMOROCCAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 60 00 19; [email protected]; 273 Impasse Issaoui; mains Dh35-95; h8am-10pm; W)
The charming Aïcha attracts locals and tourists alike with her daily specials, which typically include tomato and goat's-cheese salad, pastilla and camel, beef or sardine tajine. The intimate setting is a yellow courtyard with foliage and lanterns overhead. There are just four tables, so it pays to drop by and book ahead.
SELF-CATERING IN TIZNIT
Stock up before hitting the long road south:
Idou Tiznit SupermarketSUPERMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bab Oulad Jarrar; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-8pm Mon-Sat)
Behind the hotel of the same name, selling a range of local and imported food.
Food MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 20 Août; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat)
Good option for picnic supplies.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Espace AsrirCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0662 767 904; 133 Rue Id Ali Oubihi; h10am-11pm; W)
Housed in a heritage courtyard house, Asrir is a surprising find amid the winding laneways of Tiznit's medina. Excellent juices and coffee are served to a soundtrack of delicate birdsong, and old radios and a piano fill nooks and crannies perfect for escaping the Moroccan sun. Tiznit's hipper younger residents come to chat over sheesha, mint tea and light snacks.
Hotel MauritaniaBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Bir Anzarane; h10am-10pm)
Quite probably the only place in town to get a cold beer, the back bar at the Hotel Mauritania dispenses icy Heineken and Flag Special, making it a favourite watering hole of visiting motorcycle riders and 4WD desert-bashing enthusiasts.
Cafe PanoramiqueCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Sidi Abderhman; h8.30am-6pm)
Panoramique has views of the city walls and surrounding countryside from its roof terrace.
BEYOND THE GLITTER
Berber jewellery serves a much wider purpose than simple adornment. A woman's jewellery identifies her as a member of a clan or tribe, it is a sign of her wealth, it reflects cultural traditions, and it has power beyond the visual – to protect her from the evil eye.
A woman will receive jewellery from her mother until she marries. For her marriage, her future husband will commission his mother or sister to provide jewellery. These pieces will be kept by her as a dow
ry and added to throughout her life; they will always be made of silver, as gold is considered evil.
Necklaces are important; the traditional assemblage in the southern oasis valleys sometimes features talismans of silver, pink coral, amazonite, amber, Czech glass and West African ebony beads. Women will also own bracelets, fibulas (elaborate brooches, often triangular, used for fastening garments), anklets, earrings and headdresses. Some jewellery will be worn every day, while the finest pieces will be saved for occasions such as festivals, pilgrimages and funerals.
Jewellery’s protective, medicinal and magical properties are extremely important. The necklaces contain charms bought from magicians or holy men, offering protection against the evil eye, disease, accidents and difficulties in childbirth. Silver is believed to cure rheumatism; coral symbolises fertility and is thought to have curative powers; amber is worn as a symbol of wealth and to protect against sorcery (it’s also considered an aphrodisiac and a cure for colds); amazonite and carnelian stones are used in divining fortunes; and shells traded from East Africa symbolise fertility.
Talismans feature stylised motifs of animals, the sun, moon and stars, which are all believed to have supernatural powers. A common symbol to ward off the evil eye is the hand of Fatima, daughter of the Prophet Mohammed. Any depiction of the hand (which represents human creative power and dominance), or of the number five, is believed to have the same effect as metaphorically poking your fingers into the evil eye with the words khamsa fi ainek (five in your eye).
7Shopping
Bijouterie Ban AlkhmisJEWELLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0644 977 387; [email protected]; Ave Sidi Abderhman; h9am-6pm)
A good location for traditional silver and Berber handcrafts but you'll need to bargain hard over multiple cups of mint tea.
Jewellery SouqJEWELLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat)
With its long history of silversmiths, the jewellery souq has some of southern Morocco's best work. It’s a pleasant place to wander, with blue-doored shops and windows full of silverware. Some of the jewellery is made in Tiznit, and some bought from Saharan tribes to the south. You'll need time to look around and bargain to get the best prices.
Trésor du SudJEWELLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tresordusud.com; Bab el-Khemis, Ave Sidi Abderhman; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat & by appointment)
Jewellery shops are found along Ave Sidi Abderhman, the main road through the medina. At the top, Trésor du Sud is not the cheapest, but the work is good and it deals in hallmarked solid silver.
Ensemble ArtisanalJEWELLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 20 Août; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-8pm Mon-Sat)
Craftsmen ply their wares in a hassle-free environment.
8Information
Emergency
Police Post ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Sidi Abderhman)
Internet Access
There are internet cafes around Pl al-Méchouar.
Money
Most banks with ATMs and exchange facilities are in the ville nouvelle ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Sidi Abderhman; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri), but there are banks in the medina.
Local branches include BMCE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohammed V; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri), BMCI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 20 Août; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri) and Banque Populaire ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 20 Août; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri).
Post
Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 20 Août; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) In the ville nouvelle.
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Sidi Abderhman; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) In the medina.
Tourist Information
Tiznit Voyages ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 86 21 17; Ave Hassan II; h9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) This RAM agent also organises excursions and has local maps.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Inter-city will eventually leave from the new bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ) just off the Tafraoute road, but at the time of writing this new departure point was still not open. CTM has an office ( GOOGLE MAP ) closer to the centre on the same road, and also one on Pl al-Méchouar ( GOOGLE MAP ) in the medina. CTM serves the following destinations: Agadir (Dh40, two hours), Dakhla (Dh370, 20 hours), Goulimime (Dh45, 2½ hours), Laâyoune (Dh210, nine hours), Tafraoute (Dh40, 2½ hours) and Tan Tan (Dh95, 4½ hours). Supratours ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.supratours.ma) offers similar services from its office northwest of the medina.
Cheaper bus-company offices are clustered on Ave Lalla Abla, just northeast of the roundabout near Bab Oulad Jarrar.
Green Lux buses leave from a stand near Bab Laaouina on the western edge of the medina. Bus 18 travels to Sidi Ifni (Dh20) via Mirleft (Dh10) and bus 20 (Dh40) to Tiznit.
Taxi
Taxis leave from the main grand-taxi rank, opposite the main post office in the western part of town, serving the following destinations: Agadir (Dh35), Inezgane (Dh30), Mirleft (Dh20), Sidi Ifni (Dh30) and Tafraoute (Dh40).
Taxis for Aglou Plage (Dh5) leave from a stand on Ave Hassan II, and for Goulimime (Dh42) from a stand just south of the roundabout near Bab Oulad Jarrar, (across Rte de Goulimime from the Total garage).
8Getting Around
Red petits taxis charge Dh7 for a journey (Dh10 after 7.30pm).
Aglou Plage اكلو بلاج
Aglou Plage, 14km northwest of Tiznit, is a long beach with good surf, although the strong undertow makes it dangerous for swimming most of the time. When the Atlantic winds start blustering, it’s a wild and woolly sort of place. Development is taking its toll, but the settlement has some charm, with a raised walkway for promenading between the seafront cafes.
If you’re driving from Tiznit to Mirleft, the route via Aglou Plage takes you along a beautiful stretch of coastline.
4Sleeping & Eating
Besides Le Chant du Chameau, accommodation includes campgrounds and cheap hotels.
Aglou Plage has many cafes serving good seafood with a side order of ocean views.
Le Chant du ChameauGUESTHOUSE€
(%0667 90 49 91; www.chantduchameau.com; per person incl breakfast/half-board Dh275/385)
Le Chant du Chameau is a delightful French-Moroccan-run guesthouse at the south end of Aglou beach. Apart from a rust-red house, some fantasy tents, and a dramatic view of the beach and sea, it also offers excursions in the area and a weeklong course in tadelakt, the local plasterwork.
8Getting There & Away
Lux bus 1 (Dh5) runs from Tiznit to Aglou Plage. Bus 18 links Tiznit to Sidi Ifni via Mirleft and some departures also stop at Aglou Plage en route. Grand taxis (Dh5) run from Tiznit to Aglou Plage.
Mirleft ميرلفت
Pop 6500
One of the region’s most beautiful roads runs south of Aglou Plage, offering wonderful views of the ocean, rugged hills and the occasional empty cove. Then comes Mirleft, with a burgeoning surf scene and beckoning cafes under the arches on its main street. Historically popular with artists, musicians and overlanders recovering from Saharan crossings, this cosmopolitan little spot is developing as fans of water and wind sports discover the area. Mirleft also has a healthy share of the best coastal accommodation south of Essaouira. The climate is gentle, the air clear, the views magnificent – and the fledgling tourism development has largely been the work of individuals, rather than corporations or chains.
1Sights & Activities
Stroll down the arcaded main street, which resembles the set of a cowboy film. Under the pink-and-blue arches you will find arts and crafts, argan products, souvenirs, carpets, surfboards, beach-tennis sets and two small vegetable markets.
If at first the scruffy village seems uninspiring, the gentle bustle soon becomes contagious. A social morning coffee is followed by a trip to the beach – choose from the village's largest beach, Imin Tourga (also known as la grande plage), Fish Beach, Camping Beach, Coquillage Beach, Aftas Beach, Plage Sauvage and Marabout’s Beach. The last is the most dramatic, with its marabout’s tomb and savage-looking rocks.
There ar
e plenty of activities to keep you busy, with several surf schools, mostly located on the road to Imin Tourga. The beach is good for surf casting (fishing), and hotels and guides can organise trips from trekking to desert excursions.
Le Jardin d'OrientHAMMAM, MASSAGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0652 241 020; 1hr treatment Dh100; hby appointment)
Look for the blue door behind the fish market to discover this stylish combination of massage and hammam. Beauty therapies are also available.
Spot-MSURFING
(%0661 44 19 33; www.surfingholidaysmorocco.com)
British-owned surf specialist with a fully equipped surf shop in the middle of town and accommodation in a beach house in Imin Tourga. Beginner and intermediate surfers are welcomed and one- to five-night trips exploring remote Saharan waves are also offered.
Surf en MarruecosSURFING
(%0615 99 04 70; www.surfenmarruecos.com)
This Spanish-owned surf school has spearheaded Mirleft's development as a surf destination, organising an international longboard competition here every August.
Le Nid d’AiglePARAGLIDING
(%0658 45 82 23; www.nidaigle.com)
Tandem paragliding flights begin at €50 and accommodation, including half-board, is €45 per night.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 76