ATabacs, the small tobacco and newspaper kiosks scattered about city centres, often sell stamps, and have shorter queues.
AThe postal system is fairly reliable, if not terribly fast.
AIt takes at least a week for letters to reach European destinations, and two weeks to get to Australia and North America.
ASending post from a city normally gives mail a head start.
AWorldwide postcards cost around Dh25 to send.
Sending Parcels
AThe parcel office, indicated by the sign ‘colis postaux’, is generally in a separate part of the post-office building.
AA 1kg package costs around Dh150 to send via airmail to the UK, Dh180 to the USA and Dh240 to Australia.
AParcels should not be wider, longer or higher than 2m; weight limit varies according to the destination, but it’s typically 30kg. To ship goods home, buy a box and a shipping form at the post office and take them to the shop where you purchased your wares.
AThe shopkeeper knows the product and can wrap and pack the pieces well with newspaper and cardboard.
AIf you’ve purchased carpets, the vendor should have rolled and bound them in plastic sacks; if not, return and ask them to do so.
ALabel the outside of the package in several places with a waterproof pen.
ABe very clear about the destination country; marking it in French as well as English helps.
AIndicate the value of the contents if you like, but you may be charged taxes at the receiving end.
ADon’t seal the box! Customs officers at the post office need to view the contents.
AYour packages will be weighed and you will be charged Par Avion (air) freight rates unless you specify that you prefer the items to be shipped by land.
AThe overland service is considerably less expensive but can take three months.
AValuable speciality items such as large furniture may involve customs clearance.
AShopkeepers should be able to arrange clearance and shipping for you, but make sure you keep copies of all documentation in case the goods never arrive.
Express Mail & Couriers
AThere is usually an Express Mail Service (EMS), also known as Poste Rapide, in the same office as parcel post.
AA 500g package costs from Dh350 to send to the UK or Europe, and Dh380 to North America or Australia.
APrivate courier companies, with offices in the major cities, are faster and more expensive. International couriers with offices throughout Morocco include DHL (www.dhl-ma.com) and TNT (www.tnt.com).
Receiving Mail
AHaving mail addressed to ‘Poste Restante, La Poste Principale’ of any big town should not be a problem.
ASome offices only hang on to parcels for a couple of weeks before returning them.
AYou’ll need your passport to claim mail and you’ll be charged around Dh5 for collection.
PRACTICALITIES
AWeights & Measures The metric system is used in Morocco.
For a list of Moroccan newspapers online, visit www.onlinenewspapers.com/morocco.htm.
AA good English-language news website is Morocco World News (www.moroccoworldnews.com).
AFrench-language dailies include the semi-official Le Matin (www.lematin.ma), and the opposition Libération (www.libe.ma), L’Opinion (www.lopinion.ma) and Al-Bayane. The weekly Telquel (www.telquel.ma) magazine is an excellent news source.
AMajor European, British and American papers (or their foreign editions) and magazines are available in most of the main cities.
Most Moroccan radio stations broadcast in Arabic or French on AM or FM.
ABroadcasting across North Africa and Europe from Tangier, Maghrebi affairs and music station Médi 1 is available via radio (105.3MHz in Marrakesh and 95.3 or 101 in Tangier) and www.medi1.com.
AState-run SNRT (www.snrt.ma) has regional and national stations, including the urban Chaine Inter, available via radio (98.8MHz in Marrakesh and 90MHz in Casablanca) and www.chaineinter.ma.
ASatellite dishes are everywhere, and pick up foreign stations.
AThe major TV station, 2M, is partly state-owned and broadcasts in languages including Arabic and French via satellite, analogue and www.2m.ma.
AMédi 1’s news and current-affairs broadcasts are available via satellite and www.medi1tv.com.
AMoroccan DVDs share region 5 with much of Africa and Asia (North America is region 1, Europe is mostly region 2 and Australia is region 4).
Public Holidays
Banks, post offices and most shops shut on the main public holidays, although transport still runs.
New Year’s Day 1 January
Independence Manifesto 11 January – commemorates the publication in Fez of the Moroccan nationalist manifesto for independence
Labour Day 1 May
Feast of the Throne 30 July – commemorates King Mohammed VI’s accession to the throne
Allegiance of Oued Eddahab 14 August – celebrates the ‘return to the fatherland’ of the Oued Eddahab region in the far south, a territory once claimed by Mauritania
Anniversary of the King’s and People’s Revolution 20 August – commemorates the exile of Mohammed V by the French in 1953
Young People’s Day 21 August – celebrates the king’s birthday
Anniversary of the Green March 6 November – commemorates the Green March ‘reclaiming’ the Western Sahara on November 1975
Independence Day 18 November – commemorates independence from France
MAJOR ISLAMIC HOLIDAYS
The rhythms of Islamic practice are tied to the lunar calendar, which is slightly shorter than its Gregorian equivalent, so the Muslim calendar begins around 11 days earlier each year.
The following principal religious holidays are celebrated countrywide, with interruptions and changes of time to many local bus services and increased pressure on transport in general. Apart from on the first day of Ramadan, offices and businesses close.
Moulid (or Mouloud) an-Nabi celebrates the birth of the Prophet Mohammed. Children are often given presents.
Eid al-Fitr (Feast of the Breaking of the Fast), also known as Eid as-Sagheer (the Small Feast), is the end of Ramadan. The four-day celebration begins with a meal of harira (lentil soup), dates and honey cakes, and the country grinds to a halt during this family-focused period.
Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice) sees sheep traded for the ritual sacrifices that take place throughout the Muslim world during this three-day celebration. Also known as the Eid al-Kabeer (Grand Feast), it commemorates Ibrahim’s sacrifice. The sheep sacrifice is often a very public event – be prepared for the possibility of seeing blood running in the gutters and sheep heads being flamed over fires in the street.
Because the precise date of an Islamic holiday is in doubt until a few days before the start of that month, the following dates are only approximate.
Holiday 2017 2018 2019 2020
Moulid an-Nabi 1 Dec 20 Nov 9 Nov 29 Oct
Ramadan begins 27 May 16 May 6 May 24 Apr
Eid al-Fitr 25 Jun 16 Jun 4 Jun 24 May
Eid al-Adha 1 Sep 21 Aug 11 Aug 31 Jul
New Year begins (year) 21 Sep (1439) 11 Sep (1440) 31 Aug (1441) 20 Aug (1442)
Safe Travel
Morocco is a pretty safe country that can be navigated with a bit of common sense, but there are a few things to be aware of:
Agetting lost in winding medina streets
Agetting hassled by unofficial guides (known as 'faux guides')
Athe widespread use of marijuana (kif), which is grown in Morocco.
Drugs
AMorocco’s era as a hippie paradise, riding the Marrakesh Express and all that, has been consigned to history.
AMarijuana (known as kif) is widely grown in the Rif Mountains. It’s illegal to buy, sell or consume marijuana or hashish in Morocco. If you're going to smoke kif, don't do it in public and be extremely circumspect about who you buy it from.
AIf caught with marijuana, you may be looking at a fine and,
in the worst case, a prison sentence.
AAlthough some locals smoke marijuana as a recreational pastime, as a tourist you’re more vulnerable.
Scams & Hassle
Many Moroccan stories of extortion and rip-offs are drug-related. Recent legislation and a hard government line may have forced dealers to give up their more aggressive tactics, but the hassle has not disappeared.
A traditional ploy is to get you stoned, force you to buy a piece of hash the size of a brick and then turn you over to the police (or at least threaten to). Once you’ve purchased hash, or even just smoked some, you’re unlikely to call the cops, and the hustlers know it.
Hot Spots
ANew arrivals should ignore late-night offers of hashish. These dealers have a sixth sense for greenness, and won’t miss an opportunity to squeeze ridiculous amounts of money out of frightened people.
AIssaguen (Ketama) and the Rif Mountains are Morocco’s kif-growing heartland. Issaguen in particular can be a bag-load of trouble, and is best avoided unless you’re accompanied by a reliable guide.
Majoun
AYou may occasionally be offered majoun, a traditional sticky fudge made of butter, dried fruits, seeds, spices – and cannabis resin.
AA small ball of majoun can send you reeling (see Paul Bowles’ Their Heads Are Green or Let It Come Down for descriptions).
AAnyone with a slight tendency to paranoia when smoking dope should be aware that this is a common reaction among first-time majoun munchers.
Spain
Although the Spanish police have a relaxed attitude towards small amounts of cannabis for private use, Spanish customs will come down hard on people entering the country from Morocco in possession of the drug, and you could be done for trafficking.
AIf you’re taking a car across, the chances that it will be searched are high.
ANever carry parcels or drive vehicles across borders for other people.
EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS
Always dial the local four-digit area code even if you are dialling from the same town or code area.
Ambulance 15
Fire 15
Police (city) 19
Gendarmerie (police outside cities) 177
Getting Lost
AA minor irritation is the ever-changing street names in Moroccan cities.
AFor years, there’s been a slow process of replacing old French, Spanish and Berber names with Arabic ones.
AThe result so far is that, depending on whom you talk to, what map you use or which part of the street you are on, you’re likely to see up to three different names.
AThe general Arabic word for street is sharia, or derb in medinas (zankat for smaller ones).
AThe French avenue, boulevard and rue are still common. In the north and far south you’ll still find the Spanish calle and avenida.
AIn some cases the Arabic seems to have gained the upper hand. This is reflected in our listings; streets appear as sharia or zankat if local usage justifies it.
Medinas
AStreet names won’t help much in the labyrinthine medinas, although in theory a compass might.
AIf you feel you’re getting lost, stick to the main paths (which generally have a fair flow of people going either way) and you’ll soon reach a landmark or exit.
AKids will sometimes offer to direct you for a few dirhams; corner shops are better places to ask for directions. Carry a businesscard from your hotel to show.
Theft
On the whole, theft is not a huge problem in Morocco. Travellers can minimise risk by being vigilant (but not paranoid) in the major cities and taking some basic precautions. As the saying goes, 'Trust in God, but tie your camel'.
AWhen wandering around the streets, keep the valuables you carry to a minimum.
AKeep what you must carry around with you well hidden.
ABe vigilant when withdrawing money from ATMs.
AExternal money pouches attract attention. Neck pouches or moneybelts worn under your clothes attract less attention. They are better places to keep your money, passport and other important documents, but keep a small amount of everyday cash easily accessible to avoid having to flash your stash.
AIf you prefer to keep things in your room (preferably locked inside your suitcase), nine times out of 10 you’ll have no trouble.
ARooms in top-end hotels often have safes.
AOther hotels sometimes have a safe at reception, where you could stow valuables such as a camera.
ALeaving anything in a car, even out of sight, is asking for trouble.
AIn the large cities, notably Casablanca, there are some desperate people, and physical attacks on foreigners occasionally occur.
ATreat the medinas with particular caution at night.
AThe medinas in Marrakesh, Casablanca and Tangier have a particular reputation for petty theft. A common tactic is for one person to distract you while another cleans out your pockets. Late-night knife crime isn't uncommon.
Touts, Guides & Hustlers
Morocco’s notorious hustlers and faux guides (unofficial guides) remain an unavoidable part of the Moroccan experience.
ABrigades touristiques (tourist police) were set up in the principal tourist centres, and anyone suspected of trying to operate as an unofficial guide could face jail and/or a huge fine. This has greatly reduced, if not eliminated, the problem.
AYou’ll generally find faux guides hanging around the entrances to the big cities’ medinas, and outside bus, train and ferry stations.
AHaving a siege mentality would be an overreaction. Indeed, when arriving in a place for the first time, you might benefit from the services of a guide, official or otherwise.
AAlthough high unemployment rates drive the numbers of faux guides, not all are complete imposters. Many are very experienced and speak half a dozen languages.
ASometimes their main interest is the commission gained from certain hotels or on articles sold to you in the souqs.
Dealing with Guides
AAgree on a price before setting off on a tour.
ASet some parameters on what you expect to see and the number of shops you’re taken to. If you don’t want a shopping expedition included in your tour, make this clear beforehand.
AUnofficial guides charge around Dh50 to Dh100 per day. Rates should always be per guide, not per person.
AA few dirham will suffice if you want to be guided to a specific location (like a medina exit).
AWhatever you give, you’ll often get the ‘you can’t possibly be serious’ look. The best reply is the ‘I’ve just paid you well over the odds’ look.
AMaintain your good humour and, after a couple of days in a place, the hassle tends to lessen considerably.
AOfficial guides can be engaged through tourist offices and some hotels at the fixed price of around Dh250/300 per day (plus tip) for a local/national guide.
AIt’s well worth taking a guide when exploring Fez and Marrakesh medinas. The guide can help you find interesting sights and shops in the melee, stop you from getting lost and save you from being hassled by other would-be guides.
Driving & Transport
ADrivers should note that motorised hustlers operate on the approach roads to Fez and Marrakesh. These motorcycle nuisances are keen to find you accommodation and so on, and can be just as persistent as their counterparts on foot.
ATravellers disembarking from (and embarking on) the ferry in Tangier may receive some hassle from touts and hustlers.
AArriving by train in cities like Fez and Marrakesh, you may run into ‘students’ or similar, with the uncanny knowledge that your preferred hotel is closed or full, but they just happen to know this great little place…
GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE
For the latest travel information refer to the following websites:
A Australian Department of Foreign Affaris (www.smartraveller.gov.au)
A Canadian Consular Services Bureau (www.voyage.gc.ca)
A Japanese Ministry of For
eign Affairs (www.mofa.go.jp)
A New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade (www.safetravel.govt.nz)
AUK Foreign & Commonwealth Office (www.fco.gov.uk/travel)
AUS State Department (www.travel.state.gov)
Smoking
ASmoking is a national pastime in Morocco and nonsmoking restaurants and hotels are rare.
AMost popular eateries and cafes have outdoor seating, so the problem is reduced.
AOnly the very top-end hotels and some riads have a nonsmoking policy.
Women
AIn Muslim countries, it is often considered unacceptable for women to smoke. This is a cultural rather than religious dictate.
AParticularly outside the big cities, you’ll seldom see women smokers.
AAlthough most religious leaders condemn smoking, like drinking, as haram (forbidden), only during daylight hours of the holy month of Ramadan is the habit seriously eschewed.
AThis shouldn’t affect foreigners too much, although women may wish to refrain from smoking within local homes and be discreet elsewhere.
Telephone
AWithin Morocco, always dial the local four-digit area code even if you are dialling from the same town or code area.
AYou can make calls from téléboutiques (private telephone offices) and public payphones.
AAttendants at téléboutiques will usually change small notes into coins.
AMost payphones are card-operated.
AYou can buy télécartes (phonecards) at tabacs and téléboutiques.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 93