by Timothy Egan
Brienne-le-Château, France, xvi, 116–17, 120, 130
Brigid of Kildare, Saint, 91, 94
Bruno, Giordano, 320–21
Buonconvento, Italy, 196, 285–86
Burghers of Calais, The (Rodin), 37–38
Burke, Greg, 99
Buttet, Nicolas, 191
Byzantium, 102
Calais, France, xiv, xvi, 35–41
and Hundred Years War, 37–38
Notre-Dame church in, 39
refugees and asylum seekers in, 36–41
and Rodin’s The Burghers of Calais, 37–38
Calvin, John, 175, 177–82, 183, 234
Camino de Santiago, 4, 98, 304
Campagnano di Roma, Italy, 196, 308–10
Campbell, Joseph, 223
Campo de’ Fiori, Rome, 320
Canterbury, England, xiv, xvi
Anselmo as archbishop in, 229–30
author’s commencement of pilgrimage from, 3–4, 9
cathedral, 9, 10–11, 12, 13–14
and Chaucer, 11, 14, 15
and martyrdom of Saint Thomas Becket, 10–11, 12, 17, 18
ruins of original monastery in, 16–17
Saint Martin’s church, 19–22
Canterbury Tales, The (Chaucer), 11, 14
“Canticle of Brother Sun” (Saint Francis of Assisi), 268
Capranica, Italy, 306
car rental, 245–46, 251, 253, 271, 285, 286
Carlyle, Thomas, 170
Carrara, Italy, 196, 260, 261
Cascade Mountains, 203, 218
Castel Sant’Angelo, Rome, 68, 321–22
Cathedral of Saint John, Besançon, 151–52
Cathedral of Saint Mammes, Langres, 145–46
Cathedral of Saint-Pierre, Geneva, 177–78, 179, 180
Cathedral of San Donnino, Fidenza, 251
Cathedral of San Martino, Lucca, 262, 264
Cathedral of Santa Margherita, Montefiascone, 292–93, 294, 297
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, 281
Catherine, Empress of Russia, 140
Catherine of Siena, Saint, 278–79
Catholic Church
in Africa, 190
and apologies, 127, 321
and author’s background, 7, 105–6, 127
and author’s mother, 63, 118–19, 141
and birth control, 94
book scribes of, 42–43, 44, 168–69
confessional practice in, 78–79, 105
corruption in, 167–68, 169, 281
and Crusades, 38, 99, 121–23, 127, 267, 268–69
declining number of priests in, 267
declining power of, in Europe and U.S., 272
and Diderot’s Encyclopédie, 140
doctrines of, 32–33, 127–28
executions of heretics, 320
first major church of, 316
in France, 61–62
and French Revolution, 142
future of, 326
and Galileo, 144, 263, 321
historical atrocities of, 33, 127. See also violence
and homosexuality, 32, 215, 217
and Hugo, 149
and Index of Prohibited Books, 140
indulgences of, 162–63, 167, 168, 301
and Inquisition, 33, 105, 127, 281, 320, 323
and Joan of Arc, 93
and labyrinths, 255–56, 258, 259–60, 264–65
and Luther’s 95 theses, 163, 167, 168, 169
and Mary Magdalene, 87
and Mussolini, 316–17
and Napoleon, 119
and nuns, 52, 91, 94, 97–98
popes. See Vatican; specific popes, including Francis, Pope
and Protestant massacres, 122, 124–25, 127–28
and Protestant Reformation, 164, 166, 172, 173, 179
and refugees/asylum seekers, 40–41
and reigns of Mary I and Elizabeth I, 17
and relics trade, 167–68
Saint Jerome’s impact on, 88–89
and Saint Thomas Becket’s martyrdom, 10–11, 12, 17, 18
and science, 143–44, 320–21
sexual abuse. See sexual abuse scandals of the church
and sexuality, 87
and St. Peter’s Basilica, 68, 163, 168
and “unlearned” pre-Christians, 256–57
Vatican II, 257
weight of dark history of, 321
and Wilde, 216–17
women’s role/status in, 94, 118–19, 292, 301
See also specific abbeys, churches, and orders
Chagall, Marc, 107
Châlons-en-Champagne, France, xvi, 113, 115–16
champagne, 109–10, 111–12, 145, 310
Champagne region, xvi, 97, 111, 113
Chapel of Our Lady of the Rock, 191–92
Chapelle des Buis, France, 152
charity, 153, 275
Charlemagne, 88, 103, 251, 318, 327
Charles V, King of France, 67–68
Charles VI, King of France, 104
Charles VII, King of France, 82, 92–93
Charles IX, King of France, 125
Châteauvillain, France, 130
Chaucer, Geoffrey, 11, 14, 15
Chemin Napoléon, 193
Chernobyl, 313
Chianti region, 283
Christianity
adoption in British Isles, 15–16
in Africa, 6, 190
and ancient civilizations, 308
austerity of early Christians, 55
in China, 6
Constantine’s adoption of, 77, 102
convert-or-die approach of, 103–4
and creation of European civilization, 44–45
and destruction of Greek artifacts, 101
and Easter, 319
evangelism of early Christians, 114
Gnostic Gospels of, 85–87
Gospels of, 75–76, 84–85
and humanism of Erasmus, 124
and Jesus’ message of charity, 275
Luther’s democratization of, 167
message of, 16, 44, 319
miraculous origins of, 75. See also miracles
New Testament scriptures, 75–77
and Pantheon, Rome, 225–26
and refugees/asylum seekers, 38
and Rome’s fall, 100, 103
Saint Paul’s impact on viability of, 76–77
and sex. See sexuality
and violence. See violence
women’s role in perpetuating, 21, 91
women’s status in, 91, 94, 114
See also Catholic Church
Christina, Saint, 287
church and state, relationship of
and Crusades, 122
in England, 16–17
in France, 142–43
in Geneva, 178
and Lateran Treaty (1929), 316–17
and Napoleon, 119
Church of England, 5, 6, 7
Churchill, Winston, 110, 261
Civil War, U.S., 125
Clare of Assisi, Saint, 269–70
Clement VIII, Pope, 320
climate change, 144, 153
Clotilde, 101
Clovis, 77, 100, 104, 105, 188
Colbert, Stephen, 7
Collegiata, cathedral of San Gimignano, 274–75, 277
Confederate States of America, 125
Confessions of St. Augustine, The, 25
Constantine I, Emperor of Rome, 77, 88, 101, 327
Constitution, U.S., 137, 143
consumption habits, modern, 153
co
ntraception, and Catholic Church, 94
Copernicus, Nicolaus, 320
Corbény, France, xvi, 82
Cordonnier, Rémy, 43, 46–48
corpses, incorruptible. See incorruptibles
Council of Nicaea, 88
Council of Trent, 94
criticism of pilgrimages, 25
Crown of Thorns, 317–18
Crusades, 122–23
Belloc’s apologism for, 99
and Pope Innocent III, 268–69
Pope John Paul II’s apology for, 127
and Saint Bernard of Clairvaux, 38
and Saint Francis of Assisi, 267, 269
Cruz, Joan Carroll, 78
Cult of Reason, 142
damnation, 274–75, 276
Dante Alighieri, 215
Dark Ages, 45, 103
David (Michelangelo), 260, 283–84
Dawkins, Richard, 150, 200
Declaration of the Rights of Man, 141
deep walking, 25
Deism and Deists, 137, 149
Denmark, 170
Descent from the Cross (Rubens), 48
Dickens, Charles, 207
Diderot, Denis
on death, 145, 325
Encyclopédie, 139–40, 143
intellect of, 135, 137, 139–40
and Langres, 136–37
Philosophical Thoughts, 137
rejection of God and religion, 131, 137–38, 144
and Rousseau, 135
and Saint Mammes legend, 146
digital devices, 54
Discourse on the Existence of God (Anselmo), 228–29
Divine Right of Kings, 101, 104
Dominican friars, 168, 280, 283
Donnino, Saint, 251, 252
doubts
of author’s mother, 7–8
engaged by the Reverend Willis, 174
Father John of Flavigny’s struggles with, 212
and miracles, 74
dovecotes, 130–31
Dover, England, xvi, 28–29
Dover Castle, 29, 30–31
droit du seigneur, 105
Druon, Maurice, 101
dualism, 234
Durant, Will, 102
Easter, message of, 319
Eataly, 248–49
Edict of Milan (313), 77, 101
Edict of Nantes (1598), 125
Edward III, King of England, 37–38
Edward VII, King of Great Britain, 70
Egan, Casey, 165–66, 176–77, 184, 191, 192
accompanying author, 96, 148, 164, 184
and childhood in Italy, 275–76
Egan, Joan Patricia
annual spiritual retreat of, 63
and Catholic Church, 63, 118–19, 141
charity work of, 276
deathbed of, 7–8, 276
family life of, 62–63, 140–41
marriage of, 288–90
miscarriage and hysterectomy of, 117–19
and sexual abuse scandals, 160
Egan, Sophie
accompanying author, 217–19, 221–24, 231, 233, 236–40, 242, 251, 261–64
and childhood in Italy, 275–76
food pilgrimage of, 249, 256
and Saint Augustine, 235
Einstein, Albert, 229
Eisenhower, Dwight, 105
Elizabeth I, Queen of England, 17
Elizabeth II, Queen of Great Britain, 5, 216
Encyclopédie (Diderot), 139–40, 143
England, 15, 17, 24, 29–31. See also Canterbury, England
England, Jeremy, 177
Enlightenment era, 145
Épernay, France, xvi, 112
Erasmus, 123–24, 145, 167
Erkembode (the Saint Who Walks), 48–49, 75, 114
Ethelbert, King of Kent, 16
Ethelred the Unready, King, 40
Etruria, 303
Etruscans, 258, 261, 307–8, 325
Europe
creation of civilization in, 44–45
Hugo’s hopes for a united, 149–50
monarchs descended from Queen Victoria in, 69–70
plagues in, 29, 274, 278
religious belief in, 5–6
secularism in, 68, 182
Treaty of London (1518), 65–66, 67
wars between Christians, 65–66, 67–68
European Union, 105, 150
Evangelical Lutheran Church of Geneva, 172–73
extremism and extremists, 142
Farinetti, Oscar, 248–49
Ferdinand II, Holy Roman Emperor, 125–26
Fidenza, Italy, 196, 251, 252
field-of-battle converts, 77
Filippini, Saint Lucia
author’s encounter with, 293, 318, 328
and author’s hopes for sister-in-law, 324
Joni’s perspectives on, 293–94, 297–98
life of, 292
statue of, at St. Peter’s Basilica, 327
uncorrupted state of, 287–88, 292–93
wink of, 293, 296, 327
Fina, Saint, 277, 284
financial gain, modern emphasis on, 259–60
Flanders, 48, 114
Florence, 280–82, 284
Flynn, Rita, 157
forgiveness, power of, 250, 327
Formello, Italy, 310
Fouché, Joseph, 142–43, 145
France, xiv, 132
and Age of Reason, 141–42
Catholic Church in, 61–62
and Clovis, 77, 100, 104, 105, 188
“dechristianization” in, 142, 145
disdain for tourists in, 96–97
and Edict of Nantes (1598), 125
food of, 138
and French identity, 39
Holy Ampulla of, 98, 100–101, 104, 105, 107
and Joan of Arc, 82–83, 92–94, 95
laicité in, 143
Muslims in, 143
plagues in, 29
Protestants in, 124
refugees/asylum seekers in, 36, 38, 39, 40–41
religious belief in, 47
Revolution in, 130–31, 138, 140, 142, 145
Wars of Religion, 122, 125, 127
Wilde’s experience in, 36–37
and World War I, 70
Francis, Pope
author’s desire to meet, 26–28, 31, 69, 99, 114, 194, 249, 278
author’s time with, 325–27
and Bruno, 320–21
on charity, 275
and church doctrines, 32–33
and Clovis, 100–101
on the creation, 231
and critics in the Vatican, 272
disabled child’s audience with, 185
on forgiveness, 327
fragile health of, 33
and Frederick II, 257–58
on great truths and great faith, 166
and homosexuality, 32, 217
on living encounters with the Lord, 115
on migrants, 249
and miracles, 77
and nonbelievers, 26, 144, 275
on not fearing the truth, 320
on pilgrimages, 249
on the poor, 275
popularity of, 32
and Protestant Reformation, 173
on renewing wonder, 55
and Saint Francis of Assisi, 32, 271
on science, 143–44, 263, 321
on secret to happiness, 34
and sexual abuse scandals, 32, 160, 194, 249–50, 327
and sexuality, 94–95
therapy sought by, 209
Francis of Assisi, Saint
call to ministry, 267–68
“Canticle of Brother Sun,” 268
and Crusades, 267, 269
death of, 270
enduring popularity of, 152, 272
and Franciscan friars, 270–71
humility of, 266, 273
and La Verna, 270
philosophy of, 268, 271
and Pope Francis, 32, 271
and Pope Innocent III, 268–69
poverty embraced by, 268, 270
relics of, 267, 271
and Saint Clare of Assisi, 269–70
and Savonarola, 283
statue in Rome, 317
stigmata, 270, 271, 272
as war veteran, 267, 269
Franciscan Fraternity of Besançon, 152–53
Franciscan priests, 210–11, 266–67, 270–71
Franklin, Benjamin, 137, 140
Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor, 257–58
Frediano, San (Saint Fridianus), 261–62
frescoes in San Marco convent, Florence, 280, 283
Friars Minor, 270
Fugger, Johann, 294–95
fundamentalism, dangers of, 283
Galileo Galilei, 144, 263, 321
Gates, Henry Louis, Jr., 189
Gaul, early monastery in, 56
Gaunilo (monk), 230
Geneva, xiv, 132, 164, 176
Calvinism in, 177–81, 182, 183
as City of Refuge, 162, 175, 179
Old Town of, 162
and Reformation, 166, 177–78
and Servetus, 175, 183
Germany
European nations’ resentment of, 150
pilgrims from, 290–91, 293–94, 298–99, 303, 312
Saint Maurice’s statue in, 190
Thirty Years War, 125–26
and World War I, 67
Ghirlandaio, Domenico, 277
Gibbon, Edward, 102, 103
global warming, 144, 153
Gnostic Gospels, 85–87
God
arguments for existence of, 228–31
and brutality of war, 71
human understanding of, 131
joy as sign of presence of, 177
and message of Easter, 173, 319
Pope Francis on heart of, 275
and question of evil, 234–35, 239–40
and “unlearned” pre-Christians, 257
Goddess of Abundance, 299
Goldin, Ian, 29
Gonzaga, Saint Aloysius, 205, 206
Grand Hôtel des Templiers, Reims, 99
grapes and vineyards, 236–37, 283. See also wine
Grat, Saint, 221–23
Great Britain
and Brexit, 150
declining religious belief in, 5–6
and homosexuality, 215
nationalism in, 150
psychological crisis in, 29
and Vetralla, 305
Great Saint Bernard Hospice, 207–13, 214, 327