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Text originally published in 1937 under the same title.
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Publisher’s Note
Although in most cases we have retained the Author’s original spelling and grammar to authentically reproduce the work of the Author and the original intent of such material, some additional notes and clarifications have been added for the modern reader’s benefit.
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A LONDON GIRL OF THE NINETIES
by
M. V. Hughes
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Contents
TABLE OF CONTENTS 3
I. I Cut the Painter 4
II. A New Venture 13
III. America Calling 26
IV. I Find Robinson Crusoe 36
V. Boston, Mass. 46
VI. Meeting the Sun 54
VII. Peter, Martin, and Jack Work Together 59
VIII. Pisgah 68
IX. Preparations 80
X. Wedding Without Tears 89
XI. Ordinary Struggles 97
XII. Bronwen 109
XIII. Three Sons 123
REQUEST FROM THE PUBLISHER 135
I. I Cut the Painter
§ 1
ON the lovely May-day morning of 1890 my mother died, after an illness of only a few days. Nothing was here for tears: she had had a remarkably full and exhilarating life; she had an inborn capacity for casting care aside; she had always wished for a sudden death; and when she knew it to be at hand her only request was that I should be good to her sister Tony.
Now it was to this beloved Cornish aunt of mine that I owed, almost as much as to my parents, the two best gifts that any elders can bestow on any children—a happy childhood and as good an education as lies in their power. So that ‘being good to Tony’ involved no burden, but only continuing the delight of regarding her as a second mother, and spending part of every holiday with her in Cornwall.
And my mother left me wealthy. In money, no. It was a case of no work, no dinner. But I was young, healthy, and doing what I enjoyed. I was teaching in a girls’ day-school in Kensington, under a fine headmistress, who allowed me to work along the lines I liked. Also I had three elder brothers, of whom I could never determine which was the most loved. Unfortunately, they were not at hand; the eldest, Tom, was living in Yorkshire with wife and children; the second, Dym, was more mobile as a bachelor, and was teaching mathematics in a school in Plymouth (a place on the way to Cornwall!); and the third, Barnholt, was at sea. These three would be bulwarks for me all through life, as mother was well aware, but she had been accustomed to ejaculate occasionally, ‘If only I saw you married to a good man I should die happy’. Well, she died quite at rest on that point, for on my twenty-first birthday I had become engaged to the man of all others that she admired most. This was Arthur Hughes, who, like Dym, was teaching mathematics. But, unlike Dym, he hated the work, and was reading for the Bar, not as an escape, but because the Law, even in its seemingly absurd intricacies, fascinated him. His work was at Bedford, and I saw something of him once a fortnight when he came up to Gray’s Inn to ‘eat his dinners’.
In spite of all these sources of wealth, I was desolate. A mother’s death must always make one feel cut away at the roots, and in my case it was worse, because she had always been like a sister as well as a mother in her complete comradeship and youthful outlook. My brother Dym, whom she and I used to call ‘the branch of our family at Plymouth’, was well aware how badly I felt her loss, and came to the rescue by frequent letters and an occasional dash up to Kensington, to see me and take me out somewhere. As soon as the summer term was over he insisted on my spending a week with him on Dartmoor, where he and his friend Barber were as usual to be trout-fishing. He met me at Newton Abbot and took me on to Totnes for a day or two, where we could have some walks beside the broad waters of the Dart. I enjoyed the scenery and the walks enormously, but what bothered Dym was that I had no appetite, even after a long walk. I was really sorry about this, for he tried to tempt me with all he could think of. I remember his astonished cry, ‘What! Not eat this salmon! Why, my dear child, it was in the Dart a few hours ago!’ ‘Oh, Dym,’ I pleaded, ‘I really would if I could.’ ‘Well, darling,’ said he, ‘we’ll see what a drive over the moor will do for you tomorrow.’
The air on that glorious drive blew away my lassitude. I took off my hat and let the wind do what it liked with my close-cropped hair. I laughed as I hadn’t laughed for many weeks, from sheer physical exhilaration, and I felt like a newly created being as we drew up at the Duchy Hotel, Princetown. Dym had mentioned our destination, and both town and hotel sounded very grand to me. Indeed I felt a little nervous about the small size of my bag, at which Dym had raised an eyebrow when he met me at Newton Abbot. But I was reassured on our arrival, for of town I saw none at all, and the hotel was surprisingly modest in appearance. To Dym it had become, from his frequent holidays spent there, almost a second home, and the proprietress welcomed us warmly. I soon found that the simplicity of the hotel was entirely confined to the things that didn’t matter—its architecture and interior furnishings. Bedrooms and sitting-rooms were bare and even ugly, but the ducal quality of the hotel shone forth in its meals. These quite staggered me in their munificence. But I was prepared to justify them. How Dym laughed as he watched me dealing with the dinner after our arrival. The wind and sun of the moor had burnt my cheeks and sharpened my appetite to a quite inelegant extent; and not only Barber and his wife, but the other visitors too, couldn’t help smiling. For this was one of those rare hotels (so rare that in a wide experience I have never come across another) where English people look cheerfully at all their fellow guests, and speak on the slightest provocation or none.
The meals were peculiar in another way. They faded out in the middle of the day. In fact the whole hotel faded out. After giving us a colossal breakfast, including real ham, fish, new-laid eggs, chops and steaks, raspberries and bilberries, and bowls of clotted cream at decent intervals on the table, the entire staff disappeared. I imagined that they went into contemplation on the subject of evening dinner for some hours, and then it was all hands to the task of creating it. Such degrading trifles as lunch and tea were nothing accounted of. Mrs. Barber and I were the only female guests, and the men were all there for outdoor sport of some kind. I don’t know about the others, but Dym used to go the whole day between breakfast and dinner without opening his mouth, either to put anything in or utter a word. He and Barber would set off for the stream, the upper reaches of the Dart, lost to everything except trout, for they designedly fished well apart so as not to interfere with each other’s sport.
Meanwhile, Mrs. Barber and I knew our role quite well: we had the freedom of the moor, but must on no account come near the fishermen lest we disturb the trout, who (so the men asserted) had a rooted objection to womenfolk. Not far from the hotel was a tiny shop, the village Whiteley we called it, for it was so full of oddments of universal provision that it was difficult to edge into it. Indeed, there was a little home-made notice pinned by the door, ‘Please enter sideways’. We suspected that this had been put there by so
me wag in the hotel. Here we would capture every morning a few biscuits or apples or nuts to take with us on our wanderings about the moor. We also took books, but I read very little, liking rather to bask in the sun and give myself up to the uncanny fascination of the boundless moor. The time passed rapidly, and we didn’t even pine for a cup of tea at four o’clock, but weren’t we all ready for our evening dinner!
The Barbers had to leave the day before we did, and Dym decided, in spite of my protests, that he wouldn’t leave me alone all day. ‘You’ve really seen very little of the moor,’ said he, ‘we’ll spend our last day in going for a drive, so that you will be able to see more than you can by walking. The trout will be glad if I lay off a bit.’ So he hired a pony-trap and off we started. It was the smallest little two-wheeled carriage imaginable. I think it must have been designed to carry one good-sized man, perhaps a farmer, to market. As we were both of small make we managed to sit squeezed together on the high seat. The pony was fresh and seemed to enjoy scudding at a spanking pace along the white tracks of road that could be seen winding away miles ahead. There were no hedges to hide them, but now and again the track would disappear in a dip of the moor, to reappear some distance farther on. Here and there would come a fork, and Dym, who knew the moor like the palm of his hand, never hesitated at such a junction. He was making for one or two favourite spots to show me, and I couldn’t help wondering how he could tell one road from another without hedges or trees or any landmark whatever.
‘I shouldn’t care to be dropped here to find my way back,’ said I, after an hour of this kind of thing.
‘No, nor anyone else who doesn’t know the moor. For a stranger it’s the very dickens. I’m always sorry for those poor chaps who try to escape their warders. I’ll show you some of them on our way back, working in a gang.’
‘What do they work at?’
‘Mostly low stone hedges where no hedges are wanted. I think they might be given something to do that’s worthwhile. The absurd little walls are built very slowly and beautifully, because they’ve more time than they know what to do with. I suppose the uselessness is part of the punishment. I’ve heard it said that the severest torture you can inflict on a man is to make him upset a load of stones, fill the cart again, unload them again, and so on. But it seems to me that the long term is enough without any torture at all.’
‘Do you ever speak to the poor fellows?’
‘No, strictly forbidden. Nor give them anything. But often when I’ve passed near enough to catch the eye of one of them I’ve dropped some baccy accidentally.’
When we had been driving for two hours or more, only stopping now and again to enjoy the view of some special tor, we reached what seemed a metropolis after the desert moorland, for we had not met a single person. Here there was actually a post-office and one or two cottages.
‘You can guess the name of this place,’ said Dym, ‘for here’s the post-office and here’s the bridge—Postbridge.’
He hitched up the pony, and we were glad to get out and stretch our legs a bit. A river always drew Dym like a magnet and we hung over the bridge and stared at the water. The sun was shining brilliantly, showing up all the beauties of the moor and sky, for there were great masses of white clouds, and fleeting shadows on the middle-distance downlands. It was a perfect day, and I had no mind to leave Postbridge. But Dym descried a cloud no bigger than a man’s hand, of a kind quite different from the white ones. Making a rapid reckoning of the way of the wind, the time, and the distance from home, he thought we could get back before the cloud began business. But he thought we had better be starting, because you never knew on Dartmoor when you might be overtaken by a sudden squall and be drenched before you knew where you were. That would be nothing, I thought, for I should never know where I was anyway. We squeezed in again and turned the pony towards home. As we went Dym regaled me with the story of two men who were caught in a sudden downpour on the moor. There was, of course, no shelter of any kind, no symptom of hedge or bush anywhere. One of the men, an old habitué, saw the storm coming, hunted round for a good-sized stone, stripped off all his clothes and pushed them under the stone just in time. Down came the rain and he skipped about in it cheerfully. ‘You fool!’ cried the other, ‘You’ll catch your death,’ as he huddled himself together as well as he could, but was getting drenched to the skin. In a few minutes the shower was over, out blazed the sun again, and the old hand continued his physical exercises till he was dry, then pulled out his dry clothes and put them on, with ‘Who’s the fool now?’
While we were laughing over this we saw that our own cloud was ominously near. The pony seemed to sense it, too, and hardly needed a touch of the whip to put out at his best pace; but the rain was upon us, a real searching pour, and we went into the ‘Duchy’ like drowned rats.
‘Never mind,’ said Dym, ‘it’s just the luck of the moor, and our laughter has kept us from catching cold—there’s nothing like being jolly for warding off things. We’ll just change and be as right as a trivet.’
‘Change!’ thought I, as I went up to my room, ‘that is exactly what I cannot do,’ and I looked ruefully at the few belongings which I had spread about on my arrival, to make them appear as many as possible in the various drawers and cupboards. I might just as well have looked out of the window for any possible garment. So I went to Dym’s room and tapped at the door.
‘I say, Dym, don’t be shocked, but I’ve nothing to change into:
‘What! You have come to Dartmoor with only one dress!
Well, that beats cock-fighting, as mother used to say…. I’ll see what the proprietress can do—she’s equal to most emergencies.’
She was all smiles and accommodation, with a cheering undertone of approval…‘and quite right, my dear, not to come to a country place like this with a lot of fal-lals.’ She produced a black silk dress, doubtless her Sunday one, and carried off my wet one to be dried by the kitchen fire. As she was nearly twice my size I added greatly to the gaiety of the dinner-table by hobbling in and gathering the folds as I went. So I needn’t have been distressed, for it provided a jolly finale to a supremely happy week.
The next day we were off to Cornwall, to stay with our numerous relations in Camborne. Here Dym indulged me in my passion for riding by taking me for canters along the cliffs, on the grassy track that stretched for miles between the sea and the heather; and sometimes we would go farther afield to one of those Cornish villages with entrancing names. Tony encouraged the idea by having a beautiful new habit made for me. I felt very grand walking up to the horse in my trousers, with the tail of my skirt flung over my arm and flicking my crop. But that long skirt and that clumsy side-saddle—how ridiculous and dangerous they seem now! And when I see the modern girls in their sensible trousers, sitting safely and comfortably astride, I wish my riding days were not past. To have a horse under one gives an intoxication that the best bicycle or even the fastest car cannot inspire. Even an aeroplane has its limits; it can’t give one companionship, it can never be a Pegasus.
One of the excursions that Dym planned stands vividly in my memory. It was a glorious summer morning and we started off to Helston, an old town full of historic and romantic associations for all Cornish people—especially the Furry Dance in May, one of the real pagan relics of the Phoenician Baal worship that has not been stamped out by the Wesleyan conscience. Our objective was a little farther on—Porthleven, on Mount’s Bay. There we put up our horses at the inn and enjoyed a mighty lunch.
‘Let’s go for a stroll by the sea,’ said Dym, ‘I’ve got something funny to show you.’
And indeed it was one of the oddest natural formations I ever saw. The river Cober rises some ten miles north of Mount’s Bay, fully intending to flow respectably into it; but just as it gets a few yards from the sea it receives a rude check; the sea seems to say, ‘We don’t want you,’ and puts up a sandbar, called the Loo. So the river has quite contentedly, as though with a smile, broadened out into a lake. Dym had oft
en fished in this Loo Pool, so he knew it well, but was delighted at my staring at it in perplexity. At our backs, as we stood on the sand-bar, was the restless Atlantic, and in front of us a lovely expanse of perfectly calm water, with masses of beautiful trees coming down to its edge and waterfowl swooping over it. Dym’s thoughts were not with the beauty of the scene, but with the trout that were escaping being caught, and as he grew lyrical over these I reflected how jolly it was of him to give up a day’s fishing merely to take me to a place that he knew well. But I think my excitement and enjoyment of every moment till we reached home in the dusk made him as happy as myself.
It was on that ride home that he seized the chance to approach a subject that was on his mind. Our horses, a bit tired, were going at a walking pace.
‘You know, Molly dear, I think Arthur is a splendid fellow—the best in the world—but I feel responsible for you now, and I can’t let you be married until he has some kind of settled income. It seems a bit mad to me, this reading for the Bar.’ ‘But he loves it, Dym, and he is sick of teaching mathematics, and I would much rather wait till he gets the work he enjoys doing.’
‘Yes, but the Bar is so precarious at any time, even if you have influence, which Arthur hasn’t.’
‘I know, but it’s more fun to do things off your own bat, even if you don’t make so much money.’
‘You’re as bad as mother. She never knew or cared what her income was, if income it could be called.’
It amused me to remember this conversation a year or two later, when Dym himself was engaged to be married. He wrote to me, ‘I don’t hold with all this waiting; it’s much better to be married and chance it.’ That was all very well for him, but he was not intending to change his profession, as Arthur was. In fact, Arthur was taking big risks, for he was struggling with greater difficulties than Dym or I were aware of at the time. I knew that his mother lived alone in Wales, and relied on him to look after her, but it was not until many years later that I had a glimpse of those anxious years of which he never spoke. One of the oldest of his innumerable friends wrote to me about him, and after quoting Tacitus’ Suorum memor, sui negligens, he went on: ‘What a gallant fight he put up all his life against time and tide and fate and difficulties. He never had a proper chance. Lack of money clogged his steps at Cambridge…but he was eager to give it to others, and to my certain knowledge, when he was teaching at Bedford, nearly half his meagre salary went in alms to his “doctor brother” and “parson brother”. His extraordinary capacity for making friends went alongside with fiery indignation at anything mean. “On bad terms with Paterson?” he burst out once to some would-be peace-maker. “Of course I am. I should be ashamed of myself if I were not on bad terms with Paterson.”’
A London Home in the Nineties Page 1