Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
Page 10
Piteşti Prison MemorialMONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Negru Vodă 32; h24hr)
A modest memorial marks the spot where the city's notorious prison once stood and where insidious mind-control experiments were carried out in the late 1940s and early '50s. The main memorial is a tiled column; nearby is a map of other detention and extermination sites around Romania. It's a 15-minute walk from the centre, heading north on Str Victoriei, which becomes Str Negru Vodă.
4Sleeping
Piteşti draws far more business people than leisure travellers, and accommodation is priced accordingly. Guesthouses can take the sting out of hotel rack rates.
La StoriaGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0723-889 819; http://la-storia.ro; Str Plevnei 8; r 120 lei; W)
La Storia is a godsend for travellers on a budget in a city with few low-cost sleeping options. There are 10 clean and simply furnished rooms here, offering excellent value given the central location. There's a quiet backyard garden for coffee and light meals.
oLa StradaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0732-763 107; www.lastradapitesti.ro; B-dul Republicii 63; s/d 220/260 lei; pnai)
La Strada offers a highly tempting mix (especially if you've been travelling through the countryside) of a great location and tastefully contemporary furnishings, though at a slight premium to similar properties in the area. The hotel occupies a smartly renovated 19th-century townhouse, just a couple of minutes' walk from the centre. The terrace restaurant at the back serves good international and Romanian food.
oHotel ArgeşHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-223 399; www.hotelarges.ro; Piaţa Muntenia 3; s/d 180/220 lei; paiW)
On the shortlist for the best three-star hotel in the country. Ultra-clean rooms with high-thread-count linens, thick-weave carpets, sparkling baths and a warm reception add up to one of the best deals in the city. The location is dead centre, with the best cafes and restaurants at your doorstep.
5Eating
oLa TuciuriROMANIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0348-415 343; Str Primăverii 11; mains 25-40 lei; h8am-4am)
La Tuciuri is a real find: a traditional Romanian folk restaurant, complete with peasant costumes and music some evenings, that also serves very good food in its own right. Grilled meats are the main event here, and the chef puts out very good mititei (grilled ground beef and pork). The party carries on to the wee hours of the morning.
Garden PubROMANIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733-956 280; www.gardenpub.ro; Str Victoriei 16; mains 20-40 lei; h10am-5am; W)
This deservedly popular restaurant and pub draws everyone from visiting business people to students on their lunch break for excellent soups, salads and grilled meats and fish. There's a streetside terrace out front, more outdoor seating on the roof, and a handsome dark-wood interior for chilly evenings. Book in advance.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Guinness PubPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0726-375 619; www.guinnesspub.ro; Str Victoriei 30; mains 15-25 lei; h8.30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W)
Guinness Pub is a fun and rowdy drinking option most nights. If you're hungry, there's a full menu of Romanian dishes and grilled meats, too. It's located at the northern end of the pedestrianised part of Str Victoriei.
Cornel Pub & GrillPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0727-362 426; Str Armand Călinescu 36; h10am-2am Mon-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat, 11am-2am Sun; W)
This relaxed pub and cafe, just a short walk west of the centre, is good for a beer or light meal. There's a terrace out front and a covered bar behind. The late opening hours are a plus.
8Information
There’s no tourist information office, though some hotels stock the small multilingual book Turism in Argeş (20 lei), which has a serviceable map of the city in the front sleeve.
BRDBANK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-211 687; www.brd.ro; Str Victoriei 89; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Full-service bank and 24-hour ATM.
Central Post OfficePOST
( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Victoriei; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
The main post office is a little tricky to find. Walk southeast on Str Victoriei about 30m beyond the Princely Church. The post office building is on the right side. The counters are up one flight.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Piteşti has several bus stations. Many buses, including several bus and maxitaxi departures throughout the day to Bucharest (25 lei, two hours), leave from the Southern Bus Station Targ Vale (Autogară Sud; GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-636 302; www.autogari.ro; Str Targul din Vale 54), about 400m south of the centre. Minibuses to Curtea de Argeş (8 lei, 45 minutes) and other points to the north often leave from the Northern Bus Station (Autogară Nord, Girexim; GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-282 201; Str George Cosbuc 12), about 4km north of the centre. For other destinations consult the website www.autogari.ro.
Train
The main train station is the southern train station (Piteşti Sud; GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-627 908, domestic train information 021-9521; www.cfr.ro; B-dul Republicii). Services include a handful of daily direct trains to Bucharest (30 lei, two hours) and Craiova (35 lei, two hours).
Curtea de Argeş
Pop 26,133
Curtea de Argeş has a humble, likeable charm, enriched by the captivating treasures left over from the town's role as a Wallachian capital in the 14th century. St Nicholas Church in the former Princely Court is a must-see and is considered to be one of the oldest monuments preserved in its original form in the country. The town's storied cathedral, sculpted from white stone, is unique for the important royal tombs it hides and its chocolate-box architecture. In addition, the town is a gateway to the Făgăraş Mountains and just a short bus ride away from the 'real' Dracula's castle (Poienari Citadel).
1Sights
The main sights are located north of the town centre along a long stretch of B-dul Basarabilor. The Princely Court is at the southern end of B-dul Basarabilor, while the monastery complex is 2km to the north.
oPrincely CourtCHURCH, RUIN
(%0248-721 446; Str Negru Vodă 2; adult/child 6/3 lei; h9am-5pm)
Curtea de Argeş was an early capital of Wallachia, and these ruins from the 13th and 14th centuries mark the spot where the court once stood. The main sight is St Nicholas Church, which dates from the time of Basarab I (1310–52). Many of the frescoes are originals and merit close inspection. In the main room to the right, just below the upper window, look for a rare painting of a pregnant Mary dating from 1370.
The church also functioned as a necropolis and holds some 21 burial tombs, including that of early ruler Vladislav I Vlaicu (d 1377). The unmarked tomb in the middle of the main room predates the church by about a century and was found in archaeological digs nearby.
Curtea de Argeş Cathedral & MonasteryMONASTERY
(Mănăstirea Curtea de Argeş; %0248-721 735; B-dul Basarabilor 1; adult/child 2/1 lei; h8am-8pm)
This cathedral and monastery complex is considered one of the country's most important ecclesiastical sights. The church was originally built by Wallachian ruler Neagoe Basarab (r 1512–21), with marble and tiles brought in from Constantinople. The current edifice dates from 1875, when French architect André Lecomte du Nouy was retained to save the complex, which was in near ruins.
The monastery is an important royal mausoleum. The white marble tombstones of King Carol I (1839–1914) and his wife Elizabeth (1853–1916) lie on the right in the church's entrance hall. On the left of the entrance are the tombstones of King Ferdinand I (1865–1927) and British-born Queen Marie (1875–1938). Neagoe Basarab and his wife are also buried here.
4Sleeping
Curtea de Argeş is surprisingly popular and you never know when you might turn up on a specific saint's day, which can bring hundreds of people to town. Therefore it's a good idea to book in advance, particularly in summer.
oPensiunea RuxiPENSION$
(%0727-827 675; www.pensiunea-ruxi.ro; Str Negru
Vodă 104; s/d 90/100 lei; pniW)
While the rooms are relatively new and comfortable, the real treat here is the homely atmosphere; the family will go to heart-breaking lengths to make sure you’re taken care of. The only partial drawback is the town-centre location, about 1km from the Princely Court and 2km from the monastery complex. Walk or take a local minibus.
Pensiunea Casa DomneascaPENSION$$
(%0248-721 070; www.casa-domneasca.ro; Str Plopiş 3; s 170-220 lei, d 190-240 lei; pnaWs)
Beautiful four-star pensiune with an elegant reception area and rooms that look like a spread in Town & Country magazine. The standard rates include breakfast; the higher rates include use of the sauna and pool. To find it, make a right at the statue of Basarab I near the Princely Court and follow the street uphill about 100m.
Hotel PosadaHOTEL$$
(%0248-721 451; www.hotelposada.ro; B-dul Basarabilor 27-29; s/d 130/180 lei; pnaW)
Nicely remodelled three-star hotel with a quiet location at the far northern end of B-dul Basarabilor by the monastery complex. Try to get a front room to watch the sunset over the mountains.
5Eating
oDomnescROMANIAN$$
(%0727-364 716; www.restaurantuldomnesc.ro; B-dul Basarabilor 106; mains 20-40 lei; h7am-midnight; W)
This handsome restaurant, with a large terrace, marries the best of clean, modern presentation and traditional food, featuring menu items from the surrounding Argeş region. Choose from a list of sour soups (ciorbă), grilled meats, home-made sausages, and big wedges of polenta (mămăligă). There's folk music and dance on Thursday evenings. Located 20m north of the Princely Court.
Curtea VecheROMANIAN$$
(%0745-994 345; www.curteavechekm0.ro; B-dul Basarabilor 121; mains 20-45 lei; h9am-11pm)
Nicely restored villa with a big rambling porch and a lower-level terrace with comfy pillow seating for lounging. The menu is textbook traditional Romanian; tochitura argeseana is a stewy mix of pork, peppers, onions and an egg, all poured over polenta. Does pretty good pizza too. It's located 30m north of the Princely Court.
8Information
There is no formal tourist information office, though the private travel agency Turism Posada (%0248-721 451; www.posada.ro; B-dul Basarabilor 27-29; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) in the Hotel Posada may be able to answer some basic questions.
Post OfficePOST
(%0248-721 132; Str Despina Doamna 43; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri)
Raiffeisen BankBANK
(B-dul Basarabilor 31; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri)
One of several ATM options on B-dul Basarabilor. This one is next to the Hotel Posada, 100m south of the monastery complex.
8Getting There & Away
The main bus station is near the town centre, on a side street about 200m west of Pensiunea Ruxi. Cities served include Bucharest (30 lei, two to three hours, four daily) and Braşov (31 lei, four hours, one daily). Frequent maxitaxis to Arefu (5 lei, 40 minutes) also leave from the main bus station. Other maxitaxis go to and from Piteşti (5.50 lei, 30 minutes) from an unofficial maxitaxi stop in front of the Princely Court entrance.
Rail services have been greatly curtailed and trains are not recommended.
THE 'REAL' DRACULA'S CASTLE
North of Curtea de Argeş the population thins out to a few scattered villages as the highway nears the Carpathians. The highlight of the region is the Poienari Citadel (Cetatea Poienari; Poienari; adult/child 5/2 lei; h9am-6pm Jun-Sep, 9am-5pm May & Oct; p), one of the few castles in Romania that really does have a legitimate connection to the notorious Wallachian prince Vlad Ţepeş (1431–76), aka 'Vlad the Impaler' or, better yet, 'Dracula'.
The Poienari Citadel was once a powerful fortress guarding entry to a strategic pass linking Wallachia with Transylvania. The castle's vantage point was recognised as early as the 13th century, when Wallachian leaders first built a tower to guard the pass. Two centuries later Vlad Ţepeş enlarged the castle, using it as both a fortress and a prison. Legend has it most of the work was carried out by captured Turks.
These days there's not much of the castle left, but it's still worth the short trip from Curtea de Argeş to take in the spectacular setting and to make the invigorating climb (1480 steps) to the top. The entrance to the citadel lies just at the start of the towering Transfăgărășan road, so it's an especially easy stopover if you're planning on crossing the mountains here.
If you’d like to stay the night, the Pensiunea Dracula (%0745-473 381; www.pensiuneadracula.ro; Căpăţânenii 190; r from 140 lei; pW) is a clean and well-run pension, whose owners really get into the Dracula theme. Another good choice is Pensiunea La Cetate (%0744-424 845; www.cabanalacetate.ro; Str Mihail Kogalniceanu 1, Poienari; r 110 lei; paW), just 100m from the steps leading to Dracula’s Castle. There’s a terrace here for lunch or dinner.
The best way to come from Curtea de Argeş is by maxitaxi (5 lei, 40 minutes), signposted to Arefu.
Craiova
Pop 293,500
The university town of Craiova, founded on the site of the ancient Dacian and Roman stronghold of Pelendava, is a regional commercial centre and transport hub. All long-haul trains between Timişoara and Bucharest stop here, so it makes a convenient point to break a long journey. The modern city has greatly cleaned itself up in recent years, and the historic centre, bordered on one end by Romania’s prettiest county prefecture building, is great for a relaxing stroll.
Craiova
1Top Sights
1Art MuseumB2
1Sights
2Ethnographic MuseumA3
3Natural Science MuseumB2
4Sleeping
4Casa DavidB1
5Eating
5PerinițaB3
6Sofia BistroD3
6Drinking & Nightlife
7ChicagoD3
3Entertainment
8Marin Sorescu National TheatreC1
9Oltenia PhilharmonicB2
1Sights
Craiova has a handful of interesting museums, including an art museum with several pieces by early-modern master Constantin Brâncuşi. There are also several churches worth seeking out.
oArt MuseumMUSEUM
(Muzeul de Artă; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-412 342; www.muzeuldeartacraiova.ro; Calea Unirii 15; adult/student 10/8 lei; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
The art museum is the only real must-see in Craiova, both for the art itself, including a small but important collection of six works by internationally renowned sculptor Constantin Brâncuşi, and also for the building that the works are housed in. The early-20th-century Jean Mihail Palace once belonged to Romania's richest industrial family. Over the years it has housed Romanian kings and former Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito, and was also home to Polish president-in-exile Ignacy Mościcki in 1939.
Ethnographic MuseumMUSEUM
(Muzeul Olteniei Secţia de Etnografie; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0351-444 030; www.muzeulolteniei.ro; Str Matei Basarab 16; adult/child 5/2.50 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
This is a highly informative, well-organised exhibition of folk traditions in the Oltenia region surrounding Craiova. The exhibition begins downstairs with bread-making and progresses through pottery, tanning, clothing, weaving and folk art. There's little English signage, but there may be someone on hand who speaks some English and can show you around. The setting is the historic Casa Băniei, dating from the 17th century. Recommended.
Natural Science MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-411 906; www.muzeulolteniei.ro; Str Popa Şapcă 8; adult/child 5/2.50 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Small collection on two floors dedicated to the natural sciences. The highlights are fossils on the ground floor that include some massive mammoth tusks. On the upper level are stuffed animals representing the various fauna of the country's regions and climate zones. Very little signage in English limits the appeal.
4Sleeping
Sleep options are limited to a few midrange and top-end hotels that cater mostly to business people.
Hotel MelissHOTEL$$
&nbs
p; ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0351-804 438; www.hotelmeliss.ro; B-dul Carol I 104; s/d 200/240 lei; pnaiW)
This comfy modern, three-star option does a lot of things very well. The rooms are uncluttered, clean and quiet; some have private terraces. The reception is friendly and there's a spa and fitness centre on site. The location is about 200m south of the rail and bus stations, along the road leading into the centre.
Casa DavidHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-410 205; www.casadavid.ro; Str Ştefan cel Mare 18a; s/d 220/240 lei; pnaW)
This small four-star pensiune is a step up from the city's hotels in terms of comfort and quality, and also price. The location is good, midway between the train station and the town centre.
Hotel RextonHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0351-462 451; www.hotelrexton.ro; B-dul Carol I 49; s/d 300/350 lei; pnaiW)
One of the city's nicest hotels is this four-star option along the main road between the rail/bus stations and the centre. The classical motifs are a bit over the top, but the rooms themselves are more sleekly furnished, with flat-screen TVs, big comfy beds and quality carpets. It's a 10-minute walk south on B-dul Carol I from the train station.