Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

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Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 27

by Lonely Planet


  Timișoara has been named European Capital of Culture 2021.

  Central Timişoara

  1Top Sights

  1Museum of the 1989 RevolutionC1

  1Sights

  2Banat History MuseumB4

  3Old Town HallB2

  4Orthodox Metropolitan CathedralA5

  5Roman Catholic CathedralC1

  6Romulus & Remus ColumnA4

  7Serbian Orthodox ChurchB1

  8St John of Nepomuk & Virgin Mary StatueB2

  9Synagogue in the FortressB2

  10Timișoara Art MuseumC2

  11Timișoara FortressD2

  2Activities, Courses & Tours

  12Pedal-boat RentalB6

  4Sleeping

  13Boutique Pensiunea ParkA7

  14Hotel SavoyA6

  5Eating

  15CarusoC3

  16Casa cu FloriB3

  17Massimo TimişoaraA4

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  18AethernativB1

  19BierhausB1

  20Club 30A4

  21OperaA4

  3Entertainment

  22German State TheatreB3

  German State Theatre Box OfficeB3

  23La CăpiţeD6

  24National Theatre & Opera HouseB3

  National Theatre & Opera House Box OfficeB3

  25State Philharmonic TheatreB5

  7Shopping

  26Calina Contemporary Art SpaceA3

  1Sights

  Piaţa Unirii & Around

  Piaţa Unirii is Timişoara’s most picturesque square, featuring the imposing Catholic and Serbian churches facing each other to the east and west.

  oMuseum of the 1989 RevolutionMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-294 936; www.memorialulrevolutiei.ro; Strada Popa Șapcă 3-5; entry by donation; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

  This is an ideal venue to brush up on the December 1989 anticommunist revolution that began here in Timişoara. Displays include documentation, posters and photography from those fateful days, capped by a graphic 20-minute video (not suitable for young children) with English subtitles. Enter from Str Oituz 2.

  Synagogue in the FortressSYNAGOGUE

  (Sinagoga din Cetate; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Mărăşeşti 6)

  Built in 1865 by Viennese architect Ignatz Schuhmann, the synagogue acts as an important keynote in Jewish history – Jews in the Austro-Hungarian Empire were emancipated in 1864, when permission was given to build the synagogue. It was closed at the time of research for a massive renovation, but the fine exterior is worth taking in.

  Timișoara Art MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul de Artă Timișoara; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-491 592; www.muzeuldeartatm.ro; Piaţa Unirii 1; adult 10 lei, child free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

  This museum displays a representative sample of paintings and visual arts over the centuries as well as regular, high-quality temporary exhibitions. It's housed in the baroque Old Prefecture Palace (built 1754), which is worth a look inside for the graceful interiors alone.

  Roman Catholic CathedralCATHEDRAL

  (Catedrală Episcopală Romano-Catolică; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-430 671; Piaţa Unirii 12; h8am-6pm)

  The city's fine baroque cathedral on the east side of Piaţa Unirii was built in the mid- to late 18th century, after the Austro-Hungarian Empire had finally secured the area from Turkish influence. The main altar painting (1754) of St George slaying the dragon was carried out by Michael Angelo Unterberger, who was the director of the Fine Arts Academy in Vienna at the time of the cathedral's construction.

  Timișoara FortressFORTRESS

  (Cetatea Timișoara; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Hector; h24hr)F

  A couple of blocks to the east of Piaţa Unirii, following Str Palanca, is a classic 18th-century Austrian fortress with three fortification rings and nine bastions. It's been partially remodelled into a complex of shops and cafes.

  Serbian Orthodox ChurchCHURCH

  (Biserica Ortodoxă Sârbă; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Ungureanu 12)

  Fronting the west side of Piaţa Unirii, the Serbian Orthodox Church was built at approximately the same time as its Catholic counterpart across the square. Local Banat artist Constantin Daniel painted the interior.

  Piaţa Libertăţii & Around

  Sandwiched between Piaţa Unirii and Piaţa Victoriei, Piaţa Libertăţii is a shady square that lies at the heart of the city. There are few traditional sights here, but there are several interesting old buildings, including the Old Town Hall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piaţa Libertăţii 1), and monuments.

  St John of Nepomuk & Virgin Mary StatueMONUMENT

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  The statue of St John of Nepomuk and the Virgin Mary, located in the centre of Piaţa Libertăţii, was made in 1756 in Vienna and brought to Romania in memory of the victims of the 1738–9 plague. Etched around the monument's base is the story of hapless St John of Nepomuk, who was reputedly flung off Charles Bridge in Prague to his death on the orders of the king for failing to reveal the queen's confessions.

  Piaţa Victoriei & Around

  Piaţa Victoriei is a leafy pedestrian mall dotted with central fountains and lined with shops and cafes. The square's northern end is marked by the 18th-century National Theatre and Opera House. It was here that thousands of demonstrators gathered on 16 December 1989. A memorial on the front of the opera house reads: ‘So you, who pass by this building, will dedicate a thought for free Romania’. Towards the centre, is the Romulus and Remus Column ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a copy of the statue in Rome presented to Timişoara by that city in 1906 to mark Romania's Latin origins.

  Orthodox Metropolitan CathedralCATHEDRAL

  (Catedrala Ortodoxă Mitropolitană; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mitropolia-banatului.ro; B-dul Regele Ferdinand I; h6am-8pm)

  The Orthodox cathedral was built between 1936 and 1946. It's unique for its Byzantine-influenced architecture, which recalls the style of the Bucovina monasteries; the floor tiles recall traditional Banat carpets. At 83m, the dome is the highest in Romania.

  Banat History MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul Banatului; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-225 588; Piaţa Huniades 1)

  This museum is housed in the historic Huniades Palace, whose origins date to the 14th century and to Hungarian king Charles Robert, Prince of Anjou. The museum was closed at the time of research for protracted renovations. The exterior of the palace, though, is still worth a look.

  South of the Centre

  The Bega Canal snakes around the city south of Piaţa Victoriei. While parts of the banks remain scruffy in spots, the parks that line the canal on both sides are pleasant places to stroll.

  Reformed ChurchCHURCH

  (Biserica Reformată; GOOGLE MAP ; Str Timotei Cipariu 1)

  The 1989 revolution began at the Reformed Church, where Father László Tőkés spoke out against Ceauşescu. You can sometimes peek in at the church, and it is usually open during times of worship.

  Communist Consumers MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist; GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-892 340; www.facebook.com/muzeuconsumatorcomunist; Str Laszlo Szekely 1; donation accepted; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat, 2-11pm Sun)

  This museum houses an odd collection of pre-1989 consumer goods manufactured in Romania. It fills to the point of overflowing three rooms and a hallway below a popular cafe south of the centre. Most of the toys, appliances and periodicals will mean nothing to foreigners but it's worth a visit just to watch older Romanians take a nostalgic stroll down memory lane.

  Reach it on tram 6 or 8.

  North of the Centre

  Banat Village MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul Satului Banaţean; GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-491 339; www.muzeulsatuluibanatean.ro; Str Avram Imbroane 1; 4.50 lei; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

  This open-air 'village' was created in 1917 and exhibits more than 30 traditional peasant houses dating from the 19th century. Take tram 1 (black number) from the Northern Train Station.

  2Activities

  Rent pedal boats ( MAP GO
OGLE MAP ; %0771-675 881; per hr 15 lei; h9am-4pm Mon-Thu, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun May-Sep) to splash around the Bega Canal.

  TTours

  Several companies and individuals offer guided tours of the city and the Banat region. Recommended guides include Tymes Tours (%0722-525 734; www.tymestours.ro), Alexandra Irimia (%0742-112 174; www.timisoaratourguide.com), Ludovic Satmari (%0762-519 797; www.timisoaracitytours.com) and Claudiu Preda (%0745-519 934; www.claudiupreda.eu).

  zFestivals & Events

  The city has an active cultural calendar, with high points coming in spring and autumn. The website of the Timișoara Tourist Information Centre has a complete list under 'Events'.

  European Festival of Performing ArtsPERFORMING ARTS

  (FEST-FDR; www.tntimisoara.com; hMay)

  Nine-day annual festival that highlights the best of Romanian drama and theatre.

  Hearts Folk FestivalCULTURAL

  (Festivalul Inimilor; www.facebook.com/FestivalulInimilor; hJul)

  One of the most important folklore festivals in Europe, held in Roses Park over four days in July.

  International Jazz FestivalMUSIC

  (www.jazztm.ro; hJul)

  Held over three days in early July, this is one of the most important jazz festivals in Eastern Europe.

  PLAI FestivalMUSIC

  (www.plai.ro; hSep)

  This very popular annual festival of ethnic and world music takes places on the grounds of the Banat Village Museum in mid-September.

  4Sleeping

  Timişoara offers the full range of accommodation choices, from a converted villa moonlighting as a hotel, boutique hotels and uber-comfortable guesthouses to a canal-side hostel.

  oHostel CostelHOSTEL$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0356-262 487; www.hostel-costel.ro; Str Petru Sfetca 1; dm 50-60 lei, d 135 lei; iW)

  This charming 1920s art nouveau villa is the city's best-run hostel. The vibe is relaxed and congenial. There are three dorm rooms with six to 10 beds and one private double, plus ample chill rooms, a kitchen and a big garden with hammocks for relaxing.

  The hostel is 1km east of the centre, across the Bega Canal near the Decebal Bridge; take tram 1.

  oPensiunea Casa LeonePENSION$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0723-329 612, 0256-292 621; www.casaleone.ro; B-dul Eroilor de la Tisa 67; s/d/tr 140/160/225 lei; pnaW)

  This lovely, very welcoming 10-room pensiune offers exceptional service and individually decorated rooms. The surrounding garden is a cool and leafy oasis in summer. To find it, take tram 8 from the train station, alight at Deliblata station and walk one block northeast to B-dul Eroilor. Or phone ahead to arrange transport.

  Boutique Pensiunea ParkPENSION$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0733-274 035, 0356-264 039; www.pensiuneapark.ro; Str Remus 17; s/d/ste 200/250/295 lei; paW)

  This is a small, family-owned 'boutique pensiune' in an old villa on a leafy side street, about 10 minutes’ walk from Piaţa Victoriei. Lots of period touches, including beautiful chandeliers and fixtures in the public areas, though the 10 rooms themselves are modestly furnished with metal-frame beds.

  There's a small terrace in the back for morning coffee and bikes to ride for free during your stay.

  oVila La ResidenzaHOTEL$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-401 080; www.laresidenza.ro; Str Independenţei 14; s/d/ste €80/92/108; paiWs)

  This charming converted villa recalls an English manor, with a cosy reading room and library off the lobby and an enormous, well-tended garden in the back with swimming pool. Its 15 rooms are comfort-driven in a similar understated way. A first choice for visiting celebrities and the place to stay if price is no object.

  La Residenza is about 2km south of the centre. Take tram 6.

  Hotel SavoyHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-249 900; www.hotelsavoytimisoara.ro; Splalul Tudor Vladimirescu 2; s/d/ste 295/385/510 lei; paW)

  This stylish refurbished villa from the 1930s has some lovely art deco details in the older wing's 21 rooms (eg corner room 208 and the large 303). The 33 rooms in the newer area are swankier, with soft tones and white carpets. It's a short walk to the centre or to the banks of the Bega Canal.

  5Eating

  There are plenty of lovely terrace cafes surrounding Piaţa Unirii and Piaţa Victoriei that serve a mix of drinks and food. The spot for cheap eats, kebabs and pizza joints is the student complex (Complexul Studentesc; GOOGLE MAP ; Str Socrate; hhours vary), south of the centre across the Bega Canal.

  Massimo TimişoaraICE CREAM$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-200 606; www.facebook.com/massimotimisoara; Piaţa Victoriei 8; 1/2/3 scoops 3/4/5 lei; h10am-11pm)

  OK, it is a popular Italian eatery on leafy Piaţa Victoriei, but we come here for the attached gelateria, which serves the best Italian ices and ice creams in Timișoara.

  oCasa BuniciiROMANIAN$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0356-100 870; www.casa-bunicii.ro; Str Virgil Onitiu 3; mains 20-50 lei; hnoon-midnight; c)

  The names translate to 'Granny's House' and indeed this casual, family-friendly restaurant specialises in home cooking and regional specialities from the Banat, with an emphasis on dishes based on spätzle (egg noodles). The duck soup with dumplings (10 lei) and grilled chicken breast served in sour cherry sauce (20 lei) both come recommended. Folksy surrounds.

  NoraROMANIAN$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-218 204; www.restaurantnora.ro; B-dul Dămboviţa 40; mains 15-29 lei; h11am-11pm)

  Reservations are a must to nab a spot on the terrace at this popular, casual Romanian restaurant with a reputation for grilled meats. Nora is about 2km out of the centre to the southwest but worth the taxi fare (10 lei).

  Casa cu FloriROMANIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-435 080, 0721-180 011; www.casacuflori.ro; Str Alba Iulia 1; mains 23-55 lei; h8am-midnight; a)

  One of the best-known restaurants in the city and for good reason, the 'House of Flowers' serves excellent high-end Romanian cooking with refined service at moderate prices in a delightful 1st-floor dining room. In warmer weather, climb three flights to the flower-bedecked rooftop terrace. Always a warm welcome here.

  oCarusoINTERNATIONAL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-224 771; www.restaurantcaruso.ro; Str Enrico Caruso 2; mains 56-115 lei; hnoon-midnight)

  Probably Timișoara's finest restaurant, Caruso serves superb international and New Romanian cuisine that puts a 21st-century spin on old favourites. Foie gras with cocoa? Breast of pigeon with pear mouse? Or try veal sweetbreads with bacon mash and morel sauce. Seating on two levels and minimalist decor with lots of photos of the celebrated Italian tenor.

  But look no further than the street sign for the reason behind the name. It has an excellent wine selection but not much by the glass. There's a blowout 10-course gourmet menu with wine pairings for 1100 lei.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  In summer, Piaţa Unirii and Piaţa Victoriei are lined with cafes. For a decent listing of hot spots, pick up a free copy of Zile și Nopti (Days & Nights) at the Tourist Information Centre.

  AethernativCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0724-012 364; www.facebook.com/Aethernativ; Str Mărăşeşti 14; h10am-1am Mon-Fri, noon-1am Sat, 5pm-1am Sun)

  This trendy art club, cafe and bar occupies a courtyard of an old building two blocks west of Piaţa Unirii and has eclectic furnishings and an alternative, student vibe. There are no signs to let you know you're here; simply find the address and push open the door. Always a fun crowd on hand.

  Scârţ loc lejerCAFE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-892 340; www.facebook.com/scartloclejer; Str Laszlo Szekely 1; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat, 2-11pm Sun; W)

  An old villa that's been retro-fitted into a funky coffeehouse called something like the 'Creaky Door', with old prints on the walls and chill tunes on the turntable. There are several cosy rooms in which to read and relax, but our favourite is the garden out back, with shady nooks and even hammocks to stretch out.

  It's about 1km south of
the city centre. Take tram 6 or 8.

  BierhausBEER HALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-279 039; www.bierhaus.ro; Str Emanoil Ungureanu 15; h11.30am-1am)

  This German-style bar with a red British phone box and black-and-white photos of old Temeschburg (Timişoara in German) on the walls may have something of an identity problem, but it's a great place to down a pint or two (five beers on tap) amid good company.

  Club 30CLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0256-201 115, 0760-027 785; www.facebook.com/club30.timisoara; Piaţa Victoriei 7; h6pm-3am Thu & Sun, 10pm-5am Fri & Sat)

  This club has been a staple on the dance scene for years and shows no signs of slowing down, particularly on retro '80s and '90s dance nights. There's live music on some evenings, with jazz usually on Thursday and Sunday.

  OperaCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0720-149 813; www.facebook.com/pages/Opera-Cafe/115891888493329; Piaţa Victoriei 6; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; W)

  One of over a dozen similar cafes on large Piaţa Victoriei serving a mix of hot and cold beverages and usually some variation of salads and sandwiches (10 to 19 lei). We can say this one has the best cakes on the square.

 

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