Travelling from Oradea along Hwy E79 (local Hwy 76), the first major cave is Meziad Cave (Peştera Meziad; %0742-115 303; Meziad; adult/child 15/10 lei; h10am-6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-5pm Mar-May), 24km northeast of the town of Beiuş. The cave features an enormous opening and is split into three levels. Wear sturdy shoes and bring a torch (flashlight).
Meziad Cave is not easy to reach with public transport. From Beiuş, take a local minibus (four a day on weekdays only) to the village of Meziad and hike the final 4km. By car from Beiuş, follow signs to the cave for 12km via the villages of Remetea and Meziad.
Bears Cave (Peștera Urșilor; GOOGLE MAP ; %0359-411 083, 0744-638 244; www.pesteraursilor.ro; Chişcău; adult/child 20/10 lei; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), 82km from Oradea, is one of Romania’s finest and worth a special trip. The cave was discovered by quarry workers 40 years ago. It’s named after skeletons of the extinct cave bear (Ursus spelaeus) found inside. The magnificent galleries extend over 1km on two levels. Guided tours allow you to spend an hour inside.
From Sudrigiu, home of the park visitor centre, take the 763 road east for about 15km; the cave is signposted and there's a car park nearby. Without private transport, the region around the cave is tricky to navigate. Infrequent buses run between Beiuş, Chişcău and Ştei. For a nearby overnight option, Pensiunea Laura (%0768-539 401; Chişcău 81a; d/tr/ste 70/80/150 lei; pW) is a wooden chalet with eight rooms and a charming restaurant.
The most famous cave in the Apuseni Nature Park, the Ice Cave (Peştera Gheţarul; %0753-470 285; Scărişoara; adult/child 10/7 lei; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) houses one of the largest underground glaciers in Europe – one of just 10 – and is filled with 7500 cu metres of ice dating back to the Ice Age. Tours of 10 to 50 people depart between six and seven times a day. The tour lasts 20 minutes and involves a steep descent to the opening, a peek inside and then back up again.
The cave can be reached on foot from Gârda de Sus (9km, two hours). You can drive to the cave via a paved but narrow 8km-long road.
Băile Felix
Băile Felix, 9km southeast of Oradea, is a summer oasis, with huge, open-air, kid-friendly swimming pools filled with warm thermal water. It’s close enough to Oradea for an easy day trip, and the pools provide welcome relief if you get caught in a midsummer heatwave. Mind you, like every resort it can be raucous and cheesy too. Be warned.
1Sights & Activities
Strand FelixTHERMAL BATHS
(www.bailefelix.net; adult/child 30/15 lei; h8am-7pm Mon, 8am-8pm Tue-Fri, 7am-8pm Sat & Sun May-Sep; c)
Of the two main pool complexes in Băile Felix, this is the larger and more popular one. It's located just south of Strand Apollo, near the Staţia Băile Felix bus stop. The Felix has water slides and attracts families and kids.
Strand ApolloTHERMAL BATHS
(www.bailefelix.net; adult/child 30/15 lei; h8am-7pm Mon, 8am-8pm Tue-Fri, 7am-8pm Sat & Sun)
There are two main pool complexes in Băile Felix – this one, at the north end of Bǎile Felix, is the smaller and quieter of the two. The entrance is just opposite the Staţia Băile Felix bus stop. Strand Apollo also has a wave pool.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are plenty of private rooms on offer, so if the hotels are booked, simply look for signs saying camere (rooms), cazare (accommodation) or pensiunea (pension).
Casa VeronicaPENSION$
(%0259-318 481, 0723-008 367; www.casaveronica.ro; Str Primăverii 9a; d/tr/apt 100/120/160 lei; paW)
This well-maintained canary-yellow chalet with eight rooms is in tip-top shape. Located opposite the entrances to the pools, it's convenient for families.
Termal HotelHOTEL$$$
(%0259-318 214, 0359-089 930; www.hotel-termal.ro; Str Victoria 24; half-board s/d 260/385 lei; pnaWs)
This institutional-looking modern building houses a comfortable spa resort. The 184 rooms reek of cleanliness, with firm beds and balconies (request a forest view).
Restaurant UnionROMANIAN$
(%0259-317 005; www.pensiuneaunion.ro; Str Primǎverii 106a; mains 13-20 lei; h8am-midnight)
Feast on a full menu of Romanian food, including a delicious bean soup with smoked ham. The set lunch is just 14 lei.
8Getting There & Away
Maxitaxis run either every 15 minutes or when full between Oradea bus station and Băile Felix (3 to 5 lei). Many maxitaxis and buses heading south for Ştei and the Apuseni Mountains stop at Băile Felix en route.
WORTH A TRIP
ENJOYING THE AIR IN ARIEşENI & GâRDA DE SUS
Arieşeni and Gârda de Sus are wonderfully picturesque alpine villages that straddle both the Arieş River and scenic national Hwy 75 along a narrow valley in the Apuseni Mountains. They're 7km apart and both are filled with guesthouses.
Most visitors come here to relax and take in the mountain air or to hike or cave in the adjacent nature park, a remote expanse of mountains in the 1600–1800m range that fans out to the north. Hiking trails leave from the villages of Vârtop, Arieşeni and Gârda de Sus. Ask the Apuseni Nature Park Visitors Centre (Arieşeni Branch; %0358-402 537; www.parcapuseni.ro; Hwy 75, btwn Arieşeni & Gârda de Sus; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-2.30pm Fri) for a trail map or buy the 1:150,000 Apuseni Mountains map (15 lei). The website www.padis.ro is an excellent source of information in English.
For longer hikes, Cabana Cetatile Ponorului (%0740-007 814; www.padis.ro/ro/cabana-cetățile-ponorului; dm 50-60 lei; n) is a well-equipped mountain hut, northwest of Arieşeni, that offers 65 beds in dorm rooms of two, four and six beds. The hut is about three to four hours on foot from the Vârtop Pass (1140m) along a red-marked trail.
If you’re travelling by car, Hwy 75 is chock-a-block with hotels, pensions and private rooms (camere). Casa Noastră (%0744-322 215, 0724-350 451; www.pensiunea-casa-noastra.ro; Arieşeni; s/d 120/150 lei; naW), a family-owned guesthouse, is arguably the area’s most handsome pensiune, with a dozen snug timber-lined rooms, an attractive garden along a babbling brook, and a lovely terrace. It’s 1km west of the centre of Arieşeni in the village of Izlaz on Hwy 75.
Mama Uţa (%0735-164 098; www.mamauta.ro; Gârda de Sus 97; campsite 15 lei, cabin 80-120 lei; W) is a popular summer spot, situated just on the western side of Gârda de Sus. It has 14 attractive cabins. The restaurant is one of the best around, so come for a meal even if you’re not staying here.
From Arieşeni and Gârda de Sus there are decent bus and maxitaxi connections to Ştei, Beiuş, Oradea and Arad. The main bus station is located in the centre of Arieşeni village.
Arad
Pop 160,000
The border town of Arad, some 50km from the crossing into Hungary, lies astride the main road and has good transport connections in and out of Romania. There are not many traditional sights here, but the city is a convenient stopover on your first or last night in the country. Fans of late-19th- and early-20th-century architectural styles such as neoclassical and Secession will enjoy a stroll up the city’s long tree-lined central boulevard, B-dul Revoluţiei, running north–south.
Arad
1Sights
1Arad Town HallC2
2Archaeology & History MuseumC2
3Neolog SynagogueA5
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Neptun Water ParkD2
4Sleeping
5Hotel AradB3
6Hotel Continental ForumB2
7Picasso Boutique HotelB4
5Eating
8Don RestaurantB4
9Perla MureşuluiC2
Picasso RestaurantB4
10Restaurant RatioD2
6Drinking & Nightlife
11Euphoria BiergartenB3
3Entertainment
12Ioan Slavici TheatreA4
13Philharmonic OrchestraC3
1Sights
Arad Town HallHISTORIC BUILDING
(Primăria Arad; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.primariaarad.ro; B-dul Revoluţiei 75)
The U-shaped, neoclassical town hall is Arad’s most impressive building, with ne
oclassical and neo-Renaissance influences. The clock atop the 54m-high tower was brought from Switzerland in 1878.
Archaeology & History MuseumMUSEUM
(Muzeul de Arheologie și Istorie; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0257-281 847; www.museumarad.ro; Piaţa George Enescu 1; 1 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Arad's modest history museum housed in the Palace of Culture is a good primer for anyone interested in the city's complex origins, including 150 years of Ottoman occupation until 1699. After that the city served as a military bastion of the Habsburgs and, briefly, in 1849, as a centre of the Hungarian uprising – the museum has good coverage of that period and of the 1989 revolution.
Neolog SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
(Sinagoga Neologă; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Truibunal Dobra 10 (entrance Str Cozia 12))
Arad's Neolog (Conservative) synagogue, built between 1827 and 1834, lies southwest of Piaţa Avram Iancu. It was closed to visitors at the time of research, but the Moorish-style exterior is worth a look. About 10,000 Jews lived in Arad before WWII.
Arad FortressFORTRESS
(Cetatea Arad; GOOGLE MAP )
Arad’s star-shaped fortress was built on the orders of the Habsburg empress Maria Theresa between 1763 and 1783. It stands on the site of an old fortress built in 1551 by the Turks. It housed a military base until recently and there are plans to open it up to the public as a museum complex.
Reconciliation ParkMONUMENT
(Parcul Reconcilieri; GOOGLE MAP )
This monument park, three blocks west of Piaţa Avram Iancu, contains two notable statues. In the centre, the Liberty Monument was erected in 1890 to honour 13 Hungarian generals executed after the 1849 Hungarian uprising. Nearby, an even more impressive Triumphal Arch was built in 2004 to remember the Romanian fighters killed in the same insurrection.
2Activities
Neptun Water Park (Strandul Neptun; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0757-038 901; http://reconsarad.ro/strand.html; adult/child 13/7 lei; h1-10pm Mon, 8am-10pm Tue-Sun May-Sep; c) is a sprawling swimming complex and a godsend on a hot summer day.
4Sleeping
There are no youth hostels and very few budget options in Arad. Enquire about booking a room in a private home (from 80 lei) through the Arad Tourist Information Centre.
oHotel AradHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0257-280 894; www.hotel-arad.com; B-dul Decebal 9; s/d/ste 135/155/177 lei; paW)
In a building that dates to 1876, this wonderful old hotel has 28 huge rooms with high ceilings that feature art deco details throughout. It's in an excellent central location too, just two minutes’ walk from B-dul Revoluţiei.
Pensiunea BelancoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0747-880 965; www.belanco.ro; Str Cocorilor 36; s 155 lei, d 190-220 lei; paW)
This family-run hotel offers 16 well-proportioned rooms with air-conditioning and balconies. There's a lovely garden terrace for breakfast at the back of the house; room 8 is a good choice. Be aware that it is in a noisy workaday neighbourhood 3km northwest of the centre, with absolutely nothing of interest nearby. Take a taxi (10 to 15 lei) from the train station.
oPicasso Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0357-424 484; www.facebook.com/Picasso-Ristorante-Boutique-Hotel-977020529007884/info; B-dul Decebal 2; r €50-100; paW)
One of the finest small hotels in western Romania, the Italian-owned six-room Picasso is housed in a delightful 19th-century townhouse. Rooms are tastefully designed in creams and chocolates with hard-wood floors and tubs in the bathrooms. The Cubist prints on the wall won't let you forget where you are staying. There’s a fantastic in-house restaurant.
Hotel Continental ForumHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0372-578 800, reservations 0372-121 721; www.continentalhotels.ro; B-dul Revoluţiei 79-81; s/d €65/80; paiW)
Arad’s upmarket choice has international standards of accommodation and service and an impressive lobby with a large circular staircase. Most of the 160 rooms have balconies. The buffet breakfast is the best in town. Discounted room rates during slow periods.
5Eating & Drinking
Perla MureşuluiROMANIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0745-876 744; Str Malulul Mureşului; mains 15-30 lei; h9am-11pm)
The popular riverside 'Pearl of the Mureș' is an excellent (if somewhat frayed) choice on a warm summer's evening, with a cool breeze and fleeting glimpses of the Mureș River opposite. The traditional Romanian food is short of gourmet, though that doesn't diminish the festive feel.
Don RestaurantITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0357-431 788; www.restaurant-don.ro; Str Nicolae Bălcescu 1; mains 29-55 lei; h11am-11.30pm; v)
This very stylish neighbourhood eatery done up in brick and wood serves some excellent (and quite authentic) dishes, including an excellent zuppa di pesce (fish soup). There's also a fairly good choice of vegetarian pasta (20 to 28 lei) and pizza (17 to 25 lei).
Restaurant RatioROMANIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0257-285 477, 0731-317 420; www.restaurantratio.ro; mains 22-40 lei; h10am-midnight)
Location, location, location… This flower-bedecked, chalet-like eatery perched atop a hill on the left bank of the Mureș just over the footbridge has decent Romanian dishes and grills. But it's all about the views and watching the lazy river roll by.
Picasso RestaurantITALIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722-222 199; www.facebook.com/Picasso-Ristorante-Boutique-Hotel-977020529007884/info; B-dul Decebal 2; mains 22-85 lei; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat)
Overseen by a Roman and subtitled the 'Italian Food Academy', this hotel restaurant in a charming circular corner room with hard-wood floors and cheery yellow walls just has to be the real McCoy. Try the spaghetti vongole (pasta with clams) to start and a veal dish as a main course.
Euphoria BiergartenBEER HALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0745-393 333; http://biergarten-arad.euphoria.ro; Str 1 Decembrie 1918 6; h8am-2am)
This place is a fully fledged restaurant with sandwiches and mains such as fish 'n' chips, pljeskavica (spicy grilled meat patties) and pizza (18 to 26 lei) served in the pub, the dining room and in the lovely back beer garden. But we come to this massive, colourful place for liquid libation, with its six beers on tap and double that available by the bottle.
3Entertainment
For a decent listing of hot spots, pick up a free copy of Zile și Nopti (Days & Nights) at the Tourist Information Centre.
Ioan Slavici TheatreTHEATRE
(Teatrul Ioan Slavici; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0257-280 016, box office 0257-281 554; www.teatrulclasic.ro; B-dul Revoluţiei 103; tickets 10-30 lei; hbox office 10am-2pm & 5-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-noon & 5-7pm Sat & Sun)
Arad’s Ioan Slavici Theatre is nationally celebrated, though note that performances are in Romanian. The theatre also hosts concerts and musical performances.
Philharmonic OrchestraCLASSICAL MUSIC
(Filarmonica de Stat Arad; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 0257-281 554; www.filarmonicaarad.ro; Piaţa George Enescu 1; tickets from 10 lei)
The Philharmonic Orchestra is based in the Palace of Culture and holds classical-music concerts. Tickets are sold at the venue box office two hours before performances begin.
8Information
Arad Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0728-116 412; http://romaniatourism.com/arad.html; B-dul Revoluţiei 81; h9am-5pm)
Helpful staff provide brochures and free maps and give accommodation recommendations.
Banca TransilvaniaBANK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0257-213 320; B-dul Revoluţiei 76; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm Sat)
EurocomputerINTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Decebal 20; per hr 4 lei; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sun; W)
Basement internet cafe.
Post OfficePOST
( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Caius Iacob 4; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri)
8Getting There & Away
The border crossing into Hungary is 50km west of Arad at Nădlac.
Bus
Arad's bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Calea 6 Vânători 2-4) is west of the train station, separated by the enormous Galleria Mall. It’s the hub for Atlassib ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0257-338 000, 0747-045 337; www.atlassib.ro; Calea 6 Vânători 2-4; h7.30am-4pm Mon-Sat), the main international coach operator. Daily domestic destinations include Timişoara (about 17 lei, 1½ hours, hourly) and Oradea (24 lei, three hours, four daily).
Train
Arad's train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0257-230 633; Piaţa Gării 8-9) is a major railway junction. Daily fast services include five to Budapest (115 lei, four hours), with onward connections to Western Europe, and Bucharest (168 lei, 10½ hours, five daily), Timişoara (18 lei, one hour, four daily) and Cluj-Napoca (70 lei, four hours, two daily).
Maramureş
Baia Mare
Around Baia Mare
Tara Chioarului
Sighetu Marmatiei
Mara Valley
Sapanta
Iza Valley
Viseu & Vaser Valleys
Borsa
Maramureş
Why Go?
Widely regarded as Romania's most traditional region, dotted with steepled wooden churches and farmhouses fronted by ornately carved gates, Maramureş feels as if you are climbing into a horse-drawn time machine and heading back a couple of centuries. Indeed, Maramureş' tapestry of pastureland, peopled by colourfully garbed peasants, jumps straight out of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale. Welcome to the heart of folkloric, medieval Romania, where the last peasant culture in Europe continues to thrive. Medieval Maramureş exists in the Mara and Iza Valleys, and eight of their churches are on Unesco’s list of World Heritage sites. Among the best are Deseşti in Mara Valley and Poienile Izei in Iza Valley, not just for their architecture but for their well-preserved interior wall paintings.
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 29