Golia MonasteryMONASTERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-216 693; Str Cuza Vodă 51)F
This beautiful late Renaissance–style monastery is guarded by thick walls and the 30m-high Golia tower, which you can climb (120 steps) for views out over the city. The 17th-century church is notable for its vibrant Byzantine frescoes and intricately carved doorways, and features bastions from 1667. The complex also contains a small museum dedicated to writer and one-time resident Ion Creangă (1837–89), renowned for his Moldavian folklore–inspired short stories.
After repeated fires and closure from 1900 to 1947, the monastery was rejuvenated in 1992 and renovations continue.
Botanical GardensGARDENS
(Grădină Botanică; GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-201 373; www.botanica.uaic.ro; Dumbrava Rosie 7-9, Parcul Exposiţiei; 5 lei; h9am-7pm)
Iaşi's Botanical Gardens are Romania’s first (1856) and largest (100 hectares). They sprawl across Parcul Exposiţiei's western side and offer 21km of shady lanes, 800 rose varieties and orchid gardens, plus greenhouses with tropical flowers and carnivorous plants. Kids will enjoy the lawns and small lake. The gardens are about 3km northwest of the centre, so take a taxi (8 lei) or walk (20 minutes) up on B-dul Carol I.
Moldavian Metropolitan CathedralCHURCH
(Mitropolia Moldovei; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-215 300; www.mmb.ro; B-dul Ştefan cel Mare şi Sfânt 16; h8am-6pm)F
This cavernous cathedral, built between 1833 and 1839, was designed by architect Alexandru Orascu and decorated by painter Gheorghe Tattarescu. Since 1889, when the cathedral claimed the relics of Moldavia's patron saint, St Paraschiva, from the Church of the Three Hierarchs, the faithful have flocked here each October to see them displayed.
Great SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-313 711; Str Sinagogilor 7)
The Great Synagogue, built in 1671, is wedged between concrete apartment blocks. At the time of research, the synagogue was closed for renovation. Victims of the June 1941 pogroms are commemorated on a statue here.
Bărboi MonasteryMONASTERY
(Biserica Bărboi; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Bărboi 12; h8am-6pm)F
Built in 1841 over a 1615 church foundation, the Bărboi has an eccentric combination of a Byzantine stone-and-brick interior and a neoclassical portico supported by Doric columns – apparently a homage to similar churches at Greece's monastic community of Mt Athos.
Alexandru Ioan Cuza UniversityUNIVERSITY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-201 000; www.uaic.ro; B-dul Carol I 11; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)F
This is the impressive headquarters of Romania's first university, founded in 1860. The building dates from around the turn of the 20th century and the inauguration was overseen by King Carol I himself. One of the highlights of the interior is the Gheorghe Asachi Technical Library, a beautifully restored historic reading salon dating from the building's origins. Find it in the northern wing of the building.
Jewish CemeteryCEMETERY
(Cimitirul Evreiesc; GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-234 570; Aleea Cimitirul Evreiesc; hdawn-dusk; g43)
Jewish victims of the fascist Iron Guard’s pogroms are buried in four concrete bunkers at this cemetery on Mountain Hill (Dealul Munteni), 5km west of centre off Str Păcurari. Here stands a monument to the victims, as well as a (very small) synagogue. A taxi ride from the centre costs about 10 lei.
Union MuseumMUSEUM
(Muzeul Unirii; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-314 614; Str Alexandru Lăpuşneanu 14; adult/student 12/3 lei; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
This impressive neoclassical palace was Alexandru Cuza's home for three years (1859–62) and later housed King Ferdinand during his WWI retreat from Bucharest. It displays the Cuza family's opulent furniture, pictures and personal effects.
Church of the Three HierarchsCHURCH
(Biserica Sfinţilor Trei Ierarhi; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Ştefan cel Mare şi Sfânt; h9.30am-noon & 1-5.30pm)F
Built by Prince Vasile Lupu between 1637 and 1639, and restored between 1882 and 1904, this is one of Iaşi's most beautiful churches. Its exterior stone pattern work is exquisite and reveals Turkish, Georgian and Armenian influences. It also contains the marble tombs of Prince Lupu and his family (to the left), plus those of Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza (to the right) and Moldavian prince Dimitrie Cantemir.
In 1994 the church reopened as a monastery. The three saints are celebrated here on 30 January with an all-monk choir performance.
Mihai Eminescu Museum of LiteratureMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-144 759; Copou Park; adult/child 10/3 lei; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
This museum documents the writings, life and loves of Eminescu (1850–89), Romania’s favourite writer and poet. The great love of the married poet, Veronica Micle, was married also. They each outlived their spouses but never married due to Eminescu’s deteriorating health. The busts of Micle and Eminescu face each other by his favourite linden tree on Junimea Alea.
Jewish MuseumMUSEUM
(Comunitatea Evreiasca din Iasi; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0742-515 290; Str Elena Doamna 15; 5 lei; h10am-1pm Mon-Fri)
Run by the city's ever-dwindling Jewish community, this tiny, hard-to-find museum is currently the only source of background information on Jewish history in Iaşi. The museum's custodian apparently doesn't feel bound by the opening hours, so it may very well be closed when you turn up. To find the museum, turn down tiny Str Benjamin Fondane. It's the first house on the right.
Copou ParkPARK
(Parcol Copou; GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Carol I; hdawn-dusk)
Designed between 1834 and 1848 under Prince Mihail Sturza, this 10-hectare park is allegedly where poet Mihai Eminescu wrote beneath a linden tree. The tree still stands behind the 13m-high Obelisk of Lions (supposedly modern Romania's oldest monument), which is opposite the main entrance. A bronze bust of Eminescu sits in front.
4Sleeping
Iaşi's accommodation is business-oriented and relatively expensive. Dedicated bargain hunters can find deals, however.
Iaşi ApartmentAPARTMENT$
(%0746-067 979; www.iasi-apartment.com; apt from 120 lei; aiW)
Run by a congenial local, these downtown apartments have kitchens, air-con, internet and cable TV. Compare apartments, if possible, as quality and location varies, but price differences are minimal.
oHotel SelectHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-210 715; www.selectgrup.ro; Str 14 Decembrie 1989 2; s/d/ste 250/300/400 lei; paW)
The Select hits all the sweet spots: excellent central location, clean, stylish room decor, gleaming baths and friendly staff. The setting is a renovated 19th-century mansion, and many period details – such as the grand stairway – have been retained. There's an elegant outdoor cafe and patisserie open to nonguests as well.
Hotel EdenHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0332-144 486; www.hotels-eden.ro; Str Sf Sava 1; s/d 160/170 lei; aW)
An excellent three-star option, the Eden is central and has a good restaurant. The fresh-smelling rooms are spacious and some have balconies. Breakfast (20 lei) is not included in the room rate.
Grand Hotel TraianHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-266 666; www.grandhoteltraian.ro; Piaţa Unirii 1; s 220-240 lei, d 260-280 lei; pnaW)
Right in the centre, the elegant Traian was designed by Gustave Eiffel himself. The rooms are appropriately outfitted with billowing curtains, high ceilings and big baths, and a general old-world ambience prevails. Rooms are divided into 'standard' and only slightly more expensive 'deluxe' classes. The latter are larger and come with balconies.
Hotel MajesticHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-255 557; www.hotel-majestic.ro; Str Petru Rareş 7; s/d from 175/220 lei; paWs)
This formerly humble central pension has been renovated and expanded, its sharp rooms decorated with ornate furniture, elegant curtains and wallpaper. The facilities include, rare for Iaşi, an indoor pool. Room rates are cut over the weekend and guests receive discounts at the in-house restaurant.
Hotel U
nireaHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %232-205 000; www.hotelunirea.ro; Piaţa Unirii 5; s/d/ste 225/295/395 lei; paWs)
Although several contenders around the main square vie for the title of Iaşi’s best hotel, an indoor pool, a spa centre and a 13th-floor panoramic restaurant (with expansive views) sets the high-rise Unirea apart. Rooms are bright and business style, with comfortable beds and all amenities.
Hampton by HiltonBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-242 000; www.hamptoninn3.hilton.com; Str Anastasie Panu 26; s/d/ste 300/400/500 lei; pnaW)
The international Hilton chain has completely revamped the former Hotel Europa and transformed it into one of the city's premier business hotels. The setting is a 15-storey high-rise, full of amenities the chain's mainly corporate customers demand. The location is the eastern end of Str Anastasie Panu (south of the centre, but an easy walk from the Palace of Culture).
Little TexasHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-272 545; www.littletexas.ro; Str Moara de Vant 31; s/d from 250/275 lei; paW)
On the airport road (a 10-minute drive from the centre), this four-star Texan-run hotel is outfitted in Americana decor and has business-class amenities, plus an authentic Tex-Mex restaurant. Free airport pickups are offered.
5Eating
As on many other matters, Iaşi takes its dining cues from its student population. The city excels in fast food and burgers and has an increasing number of good vegan and vegetarian options.
oCuibVEGETARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0747-485 053; Str Gavriil Musicescu 14; mains 15-25 lei; h10am-11pm; Wv)
Slow food, raw food, vegan items; there is something for everyone at this student-run restaurant not far from the university quarter. Favourites include creamy vegetable soup or baked peppers stuffed with tofu. Dine in the leafy front garden in nice weather or browse through handmade notebooks and bags at the small gift shop inside.
Vivo FusionBURGERS$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0332-417 727; www.vivofoodbar.com; Str Zimbrului 5; burgers 15-25 lei; hnoon-11pm)
Great burgers, fries and salads are dished up at this upscale burger bar just south of the Palace of Culture. The exposed-brick interior, the old bikes mounted on the wall, and the generally laid-back attitude of the staff are all subtle clues you've entered a hipsterish enclave, but the price-for-value ratio works and for a light lunch, it's a perfect choice.
La CastelINTERNATIONAL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0749-225 220; www.lacastel.com; Aleea M Sadoveanu 54, Copou; mains 20-35 lei; hnoon-11pm; c)
With spacious, breezy lawns, La Castel incorporates French and Bavarian flourishes, a long wine list and sinful desserts. Restless youngsters will be appeased by the playground, and there's live music most nights.
It's a 15-minute drive from town, or you can catch bus 6 (a 20-minute trip) from Piaţa Unirii or in front of Alexandru Ioan Cuza University in the Copou area.
Buena VistaSOUTH AMERICAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-242 244; http://buena-vista.ro; Str Petru Movila 43; mains 20-40 lei; hnoon-midnight)
Buena Vista calls itself a Latin American restaurant, but there are enough Romanian staples, such as polenta, on the menu to attract a mainly local following. The specialities here are large cast-iron plates of grilled meats, mixed with potatoes, rice or cornmeal. There's outdoor seating on the upper terrace.
Trattoria LavricITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-229 960; Str Sf Atanasie 21; mains 20-40 lei; h11am-11.30pm)
For years Lavric was known as one of the most elegant Romanian restaurants in town. They've now switched to a full-on Italian menu. The quality is still high and the setting of brick walls, tiled floors and white linens is both dressy and romantic. The location, in a renovated residence northeast of the centre, can be hard to find.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Having failed as a commercial centre, the concrete expanse known as the 'Cub' (or Cube) at B-dul Ştefan cel Mare şi Sfânt 8 hosts several subterranean student bars. Look for the giant cube tipped on its side out front by the street, find the stairs and walk down to the lower level.
oCafeneaua AcajuBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0727-255 514; www.facebook.com/AcajuCafenea; Str Sf Sava 15; h10am-1am)
Easy to miss and hard to forget, this hip, unpretentious bar is barely signposted near the corner of Str Armeană. Its regulars include local artists, musicians and others of all ages. A small bar-top box reading 'nice things for nice people' purveys inexpensive handmade jewellery. Come for coffee by day.
JassyroCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0747-771 771; www.jassyro.ro; B-dul Ştefan cel Mare şi Sfânt 1c; h7.30am-2pm & 4pm-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun)
Why settle for your hotel's undrinkable breakfast coffee when this high-quality, next-gen roaster is waiting with vacuum presses, French presses, special filter blends and plain old espresso. There's a couple of tiny seats on the steps outside; otherwise take it to go and find a cosy bench nearby.
Terasa CorsoPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0728-920 092; www.corsoterasa.ro; Str Alexandru Lăpuşneanu 11; h9am-2am; W)
Well-trimmed hedges and gardens adorn the centre of this expansive, amphitheatre-shaped pub with overlapping rows of long tables. It's good for coffee by day and drinks by night, and serves tasty pastas, pizzas and other fare (mains 15 to 30 lei).
Radio Ga Ga English PubPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-274 037; www.facebook.com/radiogagaenglishpub; Str Alexandru Lăpușneanu 7; hnoon-midnight)
Popular student watering hole, serving Guinness on tap as well as a wide range of decent cocktails, coffee and wine. Sit on the pavement terrace and watch the crowds saunter down pedestrianised Str Lăpușneanu.
La BazăCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0332-408 146; B-dul Ştefan cel Mare şi Sfânt 8, Cub; h4pm-2am)
This festive indie fave down in the Cub complex has outlandish green walls and surrealist versions of Romanian monastic murals. The beer is cheap and the crowd is young; there's sometimes live music and film screenings.
3Entertainment
FilarmonicaCLASSICAL MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 0332-882 025; www.filarmonicais.ro; Str Cuza Vodă 29; tickets 20 lei; hbox office 10am-1pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri)
The Iaşi State Philharmonic Orchestra's home hall is excellent for classical music; there's a 50% student discount.
Underground The PubCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0735-004 001; B-dul Ştefan cel Mare şi Sfânt 8, Cub; DJ nights 15 lei; h9pm-6am)
Slightly posher than its neighbouring bars in the Cub complex, Underground specialises in mainly DJ dance parties. To find it, walk downstairs from the Agenţia de Opera ticket office.
Vasile Alecsandri National TheatreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-267 763; www.teatrulnationaliasi.ro; Str Agatha Bârsescu 18)
The National Theatre performs an impressive mix of high-brow and experimental plays, mainly in Romanian language. The theatre is located in the same impressive neobaroque building as the Romanian National Opera. Tickets start at around 30 lei, with 50% student discounts.
The building dates from the 1890s and is the work of the renowned, at the time, Viennese architects Fellner and Helmer.
Romanian National OperaOPERA
(Opera Națională Română Iași; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 0332-888 448; www.operaiasi.ro; Str Agatha Bârsescu 18; hbox office 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
The Romanian National Opera of Iași occupies the same impressive neobaroque building as the Vasile Alecsandri National Theatre. The annual repertoire includes all of the Viennese, German, French and Italian classics. The website has an up-to-date schedule in English; buy tickets at the theatre box office or at the Agenţia de Opera ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-255 999; B-dul Ştefan cel Mare şi Sfânt 8; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat). Performances normally start at 6.30pm.
GateLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/thegatebar.iasi; B-
dul Ştefan cel Mare şi Sfânt 8, Cub; hnoon-1am)
Metalheads unite! This dingy, compact bar specialises in speed metal, death metal and all varieties of morose head-pounding music, including regular live concerts. It's located below ground in the Cub complex. To find it, walk downstairs from the Agenţia de Opera ticket office.
7Shopping
Palas MallSHOPPING CENTRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0232-209 920; www.palasiasi.ro; Str Palas 7a; h8am-9pm)
If Moldavia is truly impoverished, you'd never know it from this sleek hybrid of airport duty-free shops and American-style megamall.
Anticariat GrumazescuANTIQUES
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 34