Cabana RarăuLODGE$
(%0720-538 197; www.rarau-turism.ro/cazare_cabana.html; d 100 lei)
Up at 1520m, this simple mountain lodge has a somewhat ramshackle exterior that belies its cosy, rustic-decor common area. Rooms are simple but well-maintained.
Pastravaria IzvorROMANIAN$$
(Transrarău/Hwy DJ175B, Pojorâta; mains 25-40 lei; h11am-9pm)
This traditional restaurant serves excellent grilled and fried river fish as well as Moldavian and Romanian specialities. The restaurant is located along the Transrarău highway heading south toward the Cabana Rarău, about 4km outside the village of Pojorâta.
8Getting There & Away
Câmpulung Moldovenesc is the natural entry point into the Rarău Massif. The town lies on the main highway across the mountains and is well-served by buses and maxitaxis from Suceava (14 lei) via Gura Humorului (7 lei). Câmpulung Moldovenesc is also reachable by train from Suceava (12 lei, two hours), Iaşi (60 lei, four hours) and Bucharest (90 lei, nine hours).
The Danube Delta & Black Sea Coast
Tulcea
Sulina
Sfantu Gheorghe
Constanta
Mamaia
Vama Veche
The Danube Delta & Black Sea Coast
Why Go?
Romania's 194km Black Sea coastline is remarkably diverse, both from an environmental and a cultural standpoint. In the north, the mighty Danube River (Râul Dunărea) empties into the sea after completing its 2800km-long journey across the continent. The river's mouth, the Danube Delta, is a largely unspoilt wetland that draws bird lovers and seekers of solitude alike. It's a fantastic, tangled network of ever-eroding canals, riverbeds and marshlands with remote fishing villages and stretches of deserted coast.
Further south, around Constanţa, a string of lively beach resorts draws a different kind of wildlife altogether. Everywhere you go you'll find evidence of Romania's long historical connections to ancient Greece and Rome, as well as surviving pockets of more recent Turkish, Tartar and Lippovani/Old Believer cultures.
When to Go
AMay & Jun Cool, fresh mornings are ideal for boating the Danube Delta wetlands.
AJul & Aug Black Sea resorts Mamaia and Vama Veche in peak (and party) season; book hotels far in advance.
ASep & Oct Beach towns seasonally close; culture and clubbing action shifts to Constanţa.
Best Places to Eat
A Ivan Pescar
A Sandalanda
A Irish Pub
A Chevalet
A Pizzico
Best Places to Sleep
A Hotel Cherica
A Pura Vida
A Vila Petru & Marcela Stefanov
A Vila Caviar
A Hotel Europa
The Danube Delta & Black Sea Coast Highlights
1 Sfântu Gheorghe Beach Enjoying one of Romania's most beautiful, unspoiled beaches with fine white sand, clear water and few visitors.
2 Crush Beach Testing the limits of sun and of your modesty at one of Mamaia’s trendy beaches.
3 Mud Baths Disregarding prudence and wallowing in the stinky, black (healthful?) mud at Eforie Nord.
4 Histria Archaeological Complex & Museum Reliving a piece of ancient Greece in a place where you’d least expect.
5 Plaja de Carta Soaking up some counter-culture and a glass of wine on the beach at Vama Veche.
6 Statue of Ovid Paying your respects to an unhappy Ovid as you stroll Constanţa's rejuvenating old port area.
History
Archaeologists have discovered evidence of human civilisation dating back several thousand years all along the Black Sea coast. The ancient Greeks arrived around the 7th century BC. Histria, founded in 657 BC, was the oldest Greek settlement in Romania.
The Romans arrived around the 1st century BC and conquered the coastal region. They considered the Black Sea to be on the very fringe of the empire. Indeed, it was to ancient Tomis – today's Constanţa – where Emperor Augustus chose to banish the poet Ovid (43 BC–AD 17) in AD 8 for transgressions that remain unclear to this day. Ovid was by all accounts not a happy camper being so far from Rome.
In 1418 the coastal area was conquered by the Ottoman Turks, who stayed for more than four centuries. The cultural impact of the Ottoman Empire was profound, as the presence of grand mosques to this day in both Tulcea and Constanţa testify.
In 1878 the territory became part of Romania when a combined Russo-Romanian army defeated the decaying Ottoman Empire. Once Romanian flags flew over the area, much was done to integrate it in to the rest of the country as quickly as possible.
Danube Delta
After passing through several countries and absorbing countless lesser waterways, the Danube empties into the Black Sea south of the Ukrainian border. The Danube Delta (Delta Dunării), included on Unesco’s World Heritage list, is one of Romania's leading attractions. At Tulcea, the river splits into three separate channels: the Chilia, Sulina and Sfântu Gheorghe arms, creating a constantly evolving 4187-sq-km wetland of marshes, floating reed islets and sandbars. The region provides sanctuary for 300 species of bird and 160 species of fish. Reed marshes cover 1563 sq km, constituting one of the largest single expanses of reed beds in the world. The delta is a haven for wildlife lovers, birdwatchers, fishers and anyone wanting to get away from it all for a few days. There are beautiful, secluded beaches at both Sulina and Sfântu Gheorghe, and the fish and seafood, particularly the fish soup, are the best in Romania.
1National Parks
Much of the delta is under the protection of the Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve Authority, headquartered in Tulcea, with branch offices in the delta, including in Sfântu Gheorghe. There are around 20 strictly protected areas covering about 500 sq km that are off-limits to tourists, including the 500-year-old Leţea Forest and Europe’s largest pelican colony. Visitation is limited in other areas. Note that visitors to the reserve are required to purchase an entry permit. Camping in the reserve is only allowed in official camping grounds.
8Getting Around
There is no rail service in the delta and few paved roads, meaning the primary mode of transport is ferry boat. Regularly scheduled ferries, both traditional 'slow' ferries and faster (and more expensive) hydrofoils, leave from Tulcea's main port on select days throughout the week and access major points in the delta. The helpful staff at the Tourism Information Centre in Tulcea can help piece together a journey depending on your time and budget.
Note that the delta covers a large area, and depending on where you want to go it will usually not be possible to depart and return on the same day. Give yourself at least a few days for more leisurely exploration. Ferries can get crowded in summer, so try to arrive at least an hour prior to departure to secure yourself a seat. Note that, though the ferries run year-round, service is far less reliable in winter.
Tulcea
Pop 93,050
The Danube port of Tulcea (pronounced tool-cha) is the largest city in the delta and the main entry point for accessing the region. It's got good bus and minibus connections to the rest of the country, and is home to the main passenger ferries. If you've only got a short amount of time (one to three days), you'll want to base yourself here and explore the delta via boating day trips. If you've got more time, you'll likely only transit through Tulcea on your way to deeper destinations like Sulina and Sfântu Gheorghe. There are plenty of good hotels and restaurants, and several interesting museums if you're caught up in bad weather.
Tulcea
1Top Sights
1Central Eco-Tourism Museum of the Danube DeltaD2
1Sights
2Folk Art & Ethnographic MuseumD2
3Moscheia AzizieD1
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4EscapeC2
5Ibis ToursC3
6Safca Delta ToursC2
4Sleeping
7Hotel DeltaC2
8Hotel EsplanadaA1
Hotel SelectD2
5Eating
10Restaurant SelectD2
6Drinking & Nightlife
11Cheers PubB2
1Sights
Tulcea has several worthwhile museums, most of which are grouped around the eastern end of the port. The area just to the east and behind the museums is a traditional Turkish quarter. Following Str Independenţei brings you to the minaret of 1863-built Moscheia Azizie (Azizie Mosque; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Independenţei; hclosed to the public).
oCentral Eco-Tourism Museum of the Danube DeltaMUSEUM, AQUARIUM
(Centrul Muzeal Ecoturistic Delta Dunării; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-515 866; www.icemtl.ro; Str 14 Noiembrie 1; adult/child 20/5 lei; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This combined museum and aquarium is a good primer on the delta's varied flora and fauna. There are stuffed animals on the main floor and a small but fascinating aquarium on the lower level, with ample signage in English. Highly recommended if you're traveling with kids and want to get the most out of your visit.
History & Archaeology MuseumMUSEUM
(Muzeul de Istorie și Arheologie; GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-513 626; www.icemtl.ro; Parcul Monumentul Independenței, Str Gloriei; adult/child 6/3 lei; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This well-worth-visiting museum is presented on two levels, with the upper level given over to extensive Roman findings and the lower level displaying even more fascinating artefacts of pre-Roman civilisations going back some 6000 years. The museum is situated on the site of the ancient fortress of Aegyssus, around 1km east of the centre.
Folk Art & Ethnographic MuseumMUSEUM
(Muzeul de Etnografie și Artă Populară; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-516 204; www.icemtl.ro; Str 9 Mai 4; adult/child 6/3 lei; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This modest museum displays the ethnic and cultural diversity of the delta region over the centuries, and the interaction of Romanians with Turks, Russians, Ukrainians and Bulgarians. There is some signage in English, though you can get the general idea without linguistic help.
DELTA DANUBE PERMITS
All visitors to the protected areas of the delta, including those on private hiking or boating excursions from Tulcea, Sulina or Sfântu Gheorghe (but not on the large public ferries), are required to purchase an entry permit. Permits are available for one day (5 lei), one week (15 lei) or one year (30 lei) from Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve Authority offices in Tulcea (DDBRA; GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-518 924; www.ddbra.ro; Str Portului 34A; permits per day 5 lei; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) or Sfântu Gheorghe. Boats are subject to spot inspections and if you're caught without a permit you could be fined. Note you need separate permits to fish or hunt.
2Activities
Tulcea's main activities are boating, fishing and birdwatching. The port is lined with private boat operators offering a variety of excursions on slow boats, speedboats and pontoon boats; these can be tailored to accommodate special pursuits. Prices vary according to the operator, length of time, type of boat and number of passengers. Hotels and the Tourism Information Centre can help plan trips and choose operators.
EscapeBOATING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0743-609 626; www.deltaescapetravel.ro; Tulcea Port; tours per person from 130 lei; htours 9am)
This private operator comes highly recommended. Offers a standard mix of five-, seven- and nine-hour boat trips, on both slow and speed boats. Most tours leave at 9am daily from June to September. It will also tailor trips to accommodate special interests, such as fishing or birdwatching.
Ibis ToursTOURS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722-381 398, 0240-512 787; www.ibis-tours.ro; Str Dimitrie Sturza 6; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Arranges wildlife and birdwatching tours in the delta and Dobrogea led by professional ornithologists.
Safca Delta ToursBOATING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-143 336, 0721-725 176; www.egretamica.ro; Tulcea Port; tours per person from 150 lei)
This small father-and-son company offers a variety of boat excursions for individuals or groups of up to around eight people. It has both faster boats and a pontoon boat. Among its tours is a popular seven-hour 'slow' tour that includes a fish lunch and an all-day 'hyper' trip to Sulina that includes a visit to the beach.
TRAVELLING BY PASSENGER FERRY
State-run Navrom ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-511 553; www.navromdelta.ro; Str Portului 26; hticket office 11.30am-1.30pm) operates both slower, traditional ferries (referred to as 'classic ships' on timetables) as well as faster hydrofoils to the main destinations in the delta. Ferries from Tulcea to Sulina (64km) tend to leave nearly every day in season (May to September), while ferries along less-travelled arms in the delta, including to Sfântu Gheorghe (109km), may only leave every other day. Be sure to check the schedule carefully to make sure a boat is departing on the day you need to leave.
Ferry tickets can only be purchased on the day of departure. In Tulcea, buy ferry tickets at ticket counters at the Navrom passenger ferry terminal along the Tulcea riverfront. In places outside of Tulcea, buy tickets at the local ferry terminal just ahead of the departure time. Try to arrive a bit early to make sure you get a ticket.
Ferry schedules vary from season to season. At the time of writing, Navrom boats were sailing according to the following summer timetable:
Tulcea to Sulina (via Crişan): Slow ferries ('classic ships') leave Tulcea at 1.30pm (46 lei, four to five hours) on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, and return at 7am on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Fast ferries leave Tulcea at 1.30pm (56 lei, two to three hours) on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, returning at 7am on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.
Tulcea to Sfântu Gheorghe (via Mahmudia): Slow ferries leave Tulcea at 1.30pm (48 lei, five to six hours) on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday, returning at 7am on Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Fast ferries depart from Tulcea at 1.30pm (60 lei, three hours) on Monday and Saturday, returning at 7am on Tuesday and Sunday.
In addition to the scheduled passenger ferries, private companies offer water-taxi service to and from Tulcea to popular destinations in the delta. For the 90-minute journey to Sulina, for example, expect to pay around 60 lei per person.
4Sleeping
oHotel SelectHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-506 180; www.calypsosrl.ro; Str Păcii 6; s/d 140/170 lei; paiW)
A likeable version of a boxy high-rise, with the biggest selling points being the friendly staff and very good inhouse restaurant. The rooms are plain but very good value, with big and comfortable beds and light-blocking blinds on the windows.
Hotel DeltaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-514 720; www.deltahotelro.com; Str Isaccei 2; s/d 3-star 220/280 lei, 4-star 280/360 lei; naWs)
This landmark hotel situated toward the eastern end of the port offers both three- and four-star accommodation in adjoining buildings. The three-star rooms, with air-con and balcony views, are better value. The four-star side represents arguably Tulcea’s most luxurious property. There’s an indoor pool and the location is superb.
Hotel EsplanadaHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-516 607; www.hotelesplanada.ro; Str Portului 1; s/d 280/360 lei; pnaW)
This luxury property has smart rooms with contemporary furnishings and excellent views out over the Danube. There’s a good in-house restaurant. It’s conveniently located next to the bus station.
5Eating & Drinking
oIvan PescarSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-515 861; www.facebook.com/Ivan-Pescar-1456721501301741; Str Gării 28, Faleza Tulcea; mains 25-40 lei; hnoon-11pm)
An awesome fish restaurant such as this is long overdue on Tulcea's Danube port. Expect very good traditional fish soup, as well as grilled fish and various stews and concoctions, pairing river species with various spices and polenta. There's an excellent wine list and very good homemade lemonade. A gift shop in the back sells wines and locally made honey and trinkets.
Restaurant SelectROMANIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-506 180; www.calypsosrl.ro; Str Păcii 6; mains 20-35 lei;
h9am-11pm; pW)
Though it’s a couple of blocks away from the port and lacks any buzz to speak of, this hotel restaurant is still one of the best places in town. The multilingual, varied menu offers fresh fish, pizza and the local speciality, tochitura dobrogeana (pan-fried meat with spicy sauce).
Cheers PubPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0340-401 637; www.facebook.com/cheers.tulcea; Str Gării 30; h9am-midnight)
The liveliest pub on the Tulcea waterfront draws an eclectic mix of local fishers and tourists trudging backpacks to the nearby ferries. Serves mainly beers and coffee, but they also pop popcorn in the evenings in case you get hungry.
8Information
The helpful Tourism Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-519 130; www.cnipttulcea.ro; Str Gării 26; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) can sort through the confusing ferry schedules as well as advise on various travel agencies, hotels and restaurants.
8Getting There & Away
Train service has been greatly scaled back and is not recommended.
Bus
The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-513 304; Str Portului 1) adjoins the main ferry terminal. As many as 10 buses and maxitaxis head daily to Bucharest (45 lei, five hours); there are two daily buses to Iaşi (85 lei, five hours). Maxitaxis to Constanţa (35 lei, two hours) leave every half-hour from 5.30am to 8pm.
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 39