Hostel MostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889223296; www.hostelmostel.com; bul Makedoniya 2a; dm/s/d from 20/50/60 lv; pW; j1, 6, 7, 8, 10)
Popular Mostel occupies a renovated 19th-century house, and has six- and eight-bed dorms, with either shared or private bathrooms, as well as a single and a couple of doubles; guests have use of a kitchen and a cosy lounge. Free beer, free pasta and all-you-can-eat breakfast round out the charms.
Hostel GulliverHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889656626; www.gulliver-hostel-sofia-bg.book.direct; bul Dondukov 48; dm/s/d 20/40/50 lv; iW; mSerdika, j20)
Just a couple of blocks north of pl Aleksander Nevski, Gulliver is a clean and brightly furnished place with a couple of four- and five-bed dorms and some private doubles. All rooms have TVs and fridges. There's a communal kitchen and laundry.
Internet Hostel SofiaHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889138298; www.internethostelsofia.hostel.com; ul Alabin 50a, 2nd fl; dm/s/d from 18/40/60 lv; iW; j12)
Centrally located hostel with a wide choice of large, clean rooms, with four- and six-bed dorms, singles, doubles, and private studios with separate entrances. Not immediately obvious from street level, the entrance is inside an arcade a couple of doors down from a McDonald’s.
oHotel NikyHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-952 3058; www.hotel-niky.com; ul Neofit Rilski 16; r/ste from 90/130 lv; pnaW; mNDK, j1)
Offering excellent value and a good city-centre location, Niky has comfortable rooms and gleaming bathrooms; the smart little suites come with kitchenettes. It’s a very popular place and frequently full; be sure to book ahead.
Light HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-983 1243; www.hotellight.com; ul Veslets 37; s/d 60/90 lv; aW; mLavov most)
A beacon of light in a depressed (but safe) part of the city that offers excellent value. Rooms are sparsely furnished but spotlessly clean. Baths are gleaming and the mattresses firm. The breakfast buffet is monotonous (scrambled eggs and ham slices), but decent quality for the money. You'll find the staff is helpful, and the centre is just 10 minutes away on foot.
HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-952 0830; www.hotelthehouse.com; ul Verila 4; s/d from 45/55 lv; pnaW; mNDK)
On a quiet side street off bul Vitosha, this attractively renovated townhouse has a wide choice of rooms, some quite small, but it's good value for central Sofia. Some guests may find the narrow wooden stairs awkward.
Red B&BB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889226822; www.redbandb.com; ul Lyuben Karavelov 15; s/d from 40/60 lv; i; mVasil Levski National Stadium, j10)
Attached to the Red House cultural centre in a wonderful 1920s building once home to Bulgaria's most famous sculptor, this six-room hotel offers digs with a difference. All rooms are individually decorated, and the general air is one of boho bonhomie. Shared bathrooms.
Arte HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-402 7100; www.artehotelbg.com; bul Dondukov 5; r/ste from 100/200 lv; aW; mSerdika, j20)
Welcoming city-centre hotel with bright, modern rooms and contemporary artworks adorning the walls. The central location, just next to the Serdika metro station, is a big advantage. Rooms come in standard and deluxe, with the biggest difference being room size. Prices drop slightly at weekends, and breakfast is an additional 20 lv.
Hotel DiterHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-989 8998; www.diterhotel.com; ul Han Asparuh 65; s/d 70/100 lv; paiW; mNDK, j9)
Occupying a restored, bright-blue 19th-century townhouse on a quiet street within easy walking distance of the trendiest parts of the city centre, the Diter is a cosy place with a variety of bright rooms. There's an on-site restaurant, bar and garden, but the breakfast buffet is meagre and costs an additional 8 lv with some room packages.
Scotty’s Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-983 6777; www.scottyshotel.eu; ul Ekzarh Yosif 11; s/d from 70/90 lv; aW; mSerdika, j20)
Opposite the synagogue, Scotty’s is a small, stylish, gay-friendly hotel with just nine rooms, all individually designed and named after international cities, such as the Cape Town Room, which is kitted out with zebra-print details. The neighbourhood is central, though slightly depressed. Breakfast is bare bones: a breakfast roll and coffee.
Sofia ResidenceBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0885006810; www.residence-oborishte.com; ul Oborishte 63; r/ste from 200/300 lv; naWs; g9, 72, mSofiyski Universitet)
A luxurious salmon-pink 1930s-era home with its own bistro, the Residence has nine rooms and sumptuous suites with cherry-wood flooring, antique-style furnishings and lots of space. The penthouse (260 lv) has a view over the Aleksander Nevski Church. Prices drop by 20% at weekends.
Arena di SerdicaLUXURY HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-819 9191; www.arenadiserdica.com; ul Budapeshta 2-4; r from 200 lv; pnaWs; mSerdika)
Rooms in this modern five-star hotel are plush but big and understated. The location is central, within easy walking distance of most sites, but on a quiet side street. The name comes from the remains of a 4th-century Roman amphitheatre that were uncovered during construction and are now preserved below the foyer. There’s also a 'Roman-style' spa.
Visitors are welcome to gaze over the remains of the Roman amphitheatre inside the hotel (free, and open from 10am to 4pm).
Art Plaza HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-980 0030; www.artplazahotel.bg; ul Hristo Belchev 46; s/d/ste 110/130/180 lv; paiW; mNDK, j9)
This swish, modern affiliate of the Best Western chain is one of the nicest hotels in the centre and a first choice among business travellers. The hotel offers 20 standard rooms, eight superior and six apartments, each with a unique design. Superior rooms are slightly larger, but similarly furnished to standards. The location is central yet quiet.
Sofia Hotel BalkanLUXURY HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-981 6541; www.sofiabalkan.com; pl Sveta Nedelya 5; r/ste from 300/450 lv; paiW; mSerdika)
The imposing building, part of the Presidential Palace, dates from the mid-1950s and exudes a retro socialist-realist appeal. The interior has been retrofitted and boasts an elegant lobby, as well as bars, clubs, cafes and a casino. Marble floors, glittering chandeliers and large, plush rooms provide a level of comfort that should please the most demanding guests.
Hotel Les FleursBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-810 0800; www.lesfleurshotel.com; bul Vitosha 21; r from 220 lv; pnaW; mSerdika, j10)
You can hardly miss this very central hotel with gigantic blooms on its facade. The flowery motif is continued in the large, carefully styled rooms, and there's a very good restaurant on-site. The location, right at the start of the pedestrian-only stretch of bul Vitosha, is ideal.
5Eating
Sofia has some of the country's best restaurants, including traditional and international cuisines. In summer, cafes occupy every piece of garden and footpath. Some are just basic spots for a coffee and a sandwich; others offer a more refined setting for cocktails and cakes.
Kiosks around town sell tasty local fast food such as banitsa (cheese pasties) and palachinki (pancakes), plus pizzas and burgers. The Central Hali Shopping Centre (Halite; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bul Maria Luisa 25; h7am-9pm; mSerdika, j20, 22) is a good spot to pick up picnic supplies.
Vila RosichBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-954 3072; www.vilarosiche.com; ul Neofit Rilski 26; sandwiches & cakes 5-7 lv; h8am-9pm; Wv; mNDK)
Step into the back garden of this hidden bakery and enter what feels like a secret world of fresh-made breads and cakes. It's a perfect spot for an afternoon sweet, or a light cheese-stuffed croissant sandwich.
Sun & MoonVEGETARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0899138411; www.sunmoon.bg; ul 6 Sepemvri 39; mains 8-12 lv; h10am-11pm; Wv; mNDK)
Very good vegetarian cooking, a warm, student-friendly atmosphere and a sunny, streetside terrace make thi
s the ideal choice for a healthy, inexpensive lunch. Also has excellent homemade bread and baked goods, and great coffee.
ConfettiICE CREAM$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-988 4444; ul Graf Ignatiev 4; cones 2-4 lv; h9am-midnight; W; mSerdika, j10, 12)
Delicious, mouth-watering homemade ice cream in countless variations that call out for sampling from the wide, oval-shaped front counter. The chocolate and vanilla tasted fresh from the ice-cream maker, and that was just the start of our exploration... Eat-in or takeaway.
Ege TürkTURKISH$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Tsar Simeon 108; mains 8-10 lv; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat; mSerdika, Lavov most)
Hole-in-the-wall, diner-style restaurant deep within Sofia's Turkish quarter north of the Serdika metro station that serves arguably the city's best Turkish food. The modest menu features classic spicy Iskender and Adana kebabs, served here on a plate with rice and bulgur, as well as moussaka, and various stews, from beef to okra. Not much English spoken – simply point at your selection.
SkaptobaraBURGERS$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0877333233; www.skaptobara.com; ul Iskâr 11a; burgers 10 lv; h10am-midnight; Wv; mSerdika, j20, 22)
Student-friendly burger joint opened by some former students of the American University in Bulgaria. The house burgers are served with spicy jalopenas on the side. Plenty of veggie and gluten-free options available. Crinkle-cut fries, imaginative cocktails and evening chill-out tunes on the terrace round out the charms.
Bistro PestoMEDITERRANEAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0877174845; ul Angel Kânchev 18a; sandwiches 6 lv; h10am-10pm; Wv; j10, 12, 18 MB)
Impossibly cute Italian-themed sandwich and coffee bar that makes for a great, inexpensive pit stop for lunch. The specialities here are panini (toasted sandwiches), but it also has very good salads, coffee and wine.
Krâchme DivakaBULGARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0886702996; www.divaka.bg; ul 6 Sepemvri 41a; mains 5-12 lv; h10am-11pm; v; mNDK, j10)
In an appealing old house, this restaurant is a good choice for traditional Bulgarian food. Dishes include wine-soaked kebab with mashed potatoes, a filling potato-cream soup, and grilled trout, and there are plenty of vegetarian options.
Dream HouseVEGETARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-980 8163; www.dreamhouse-bg.com; ul Alabin 50a, 1st fl; mains 5-8 lv; h11am-10pm; v; mSerdika, j10, 12)
This informal vegetarian restaurant is up some grubby stairs, in an arcade just off the street. Options include stir-fries, curries, pancakes and homemade lemonade. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays (10 lv) and daily, good-value lunch menus.
oMade In HomeINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0876884014; ul Angel Kânchev 30a; mains 12-22 lv; h11am-9pm Mon, to 10pm Tue-Sun; Wv; mNDK)
Sofia's very popular entrant into the worldwide, locally sourced, slow-food trend (the name refers to the fact that all items are made in-house). The cooking is eclectic, with dollops of Middle Eastern (eg hummus) and Turkish items, as well as ample vegetarian and vegan offerings. The playfully rustic interior feels straight out of a Winnie-the-Pooh book. Reservations essential.
oMoMa Bulgarian Food & WineBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0885622020; www.moma-restaurant.com; ul Solunska 28; mains 8-22 lv; h11am-10pm; Wv; mSerdika)
An update on the traditional mehana (taverna), serving typical Bulgarian foods such as grilled meats and meatballs, and wines, but in a more modern and understated interior. The result is one of the best nights out in town. Start off with a shot of rakia (Bulgarian brandy) and a salad, and move on to the ample main courses. Book ahead – this restaurant is popular.
Little ThingsINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0882490030; ul Tsar Ivan Shishman 37; mains 8-20 lv; hnoon-midnight; W; j10, 12)
It's the little things – knick-knacks, toys, books, flowers – that give this charming spot its name, but it's the large portions of delightful, homestyle food that keep locals coming back for more. Mains include handmade meatballs, sinful pastas and creamy fish dishes; whatever you do, try the fig cheesecake.
Manastirska MagernitsaBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-980 3883; www.magernitsa.com; ul Han Asparuh 67; mains 8-18 lv; h11-2am; mNDK)
This traditional mehana (tavern) is among the best places in Sofia to sample authentic Bulgarian cuisine. The enormous menu features recipes collected from monasteries across the country, with dishes such as ‘drunken rabbit’ stewed in wine, as well as salads, fish, pork and game options. Portions are generous and the service attentive. Dine in the garden in nice weather.
SkaraBar 2BULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-483 4431; www.skarabar.com; ul Benkovski 12; mains 6-12 lv; hnoon-midnight; mSerdika, j20, 22)
The branch of a small local chain of popular grill restaurants features a bright, airy space with wooden floors, an open kitchen, exposed pipes and white tiles. The cooks here promise locally sourced beef, pork, lamb and even horsemeat, and a good choice of domestic wines. The speciality is grilled meatballs, but they also serve very good steaks and burgers.
Taj MahalINDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0876600776; www.tajmahal.bg; ul 11 avgust 11; mains 16-22 lv; h6-11.30pm Mon, noon-11.30pm Tue-Sun; Wv; mSofiyski Universitet, j20, 22)
Sofia's longest-running Indian restaurant is also probably its best. Indian classics are served on three floors of what looks like an old mansion. Great appetisers and curries, with lots of vegetarian options. The 'salty' lassi, flavoured with cumin, is one of our favourites.
AnnetteMOROCCAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0885139676; www.annette.bg; ul Angel Kânchev 27; mains 10-20 lv; W; mNDK, j10,12)
With its cushion-filled couches, glowing candles and lanterns, and spicy aromas, this is a great place for authentic Moroccan cooking, including a big selection of tasty meze, and tagine meals such as lamb with figs and apricots, and chicken in wine sauce.
K.E.V.ABULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0877313233; School for Performing Arts, ul Rakovski 114; 6-15 lv; h11am-midnight; j10, j9)
All is not as it seems at K.E.V.A, a simple-looking place with a cheap menu: this restaurant offers five-star cuisine, lots of grilled meat dishes and meatballs, at cafeteria prices. A favourite hang-out of Sofia's arty elite and students from the attached School for Performing Arts, it also hosts regular mealtime theatrical performances.
PastorantITALIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-981 4482; www.pastorant.eu; ul Tsar Asen 16; mains 12-29 lv; hnoon-10.30pm; v; mNDK)
This charming pea-green restaurant provides an intimate setting for high-quality Italian cuisine, including some inventive pasta and risotto dishes and traditional favourites such as saltimbocca and pesto chicken.
6Drinking & Nightlife
There’s a seemingly inexhaustible supply of watering holes all over Sofia. The cheapest places to grab a beer are the kiosks in the city’s parks; if you’re looking for a more sophisticated ambience, the city centre has plenty of swish new bars.
DaDa Cultural BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0877062455; http://blog.dadaculturalbar.eu; ul Georgi Benkovski 10; h24hr; W; mSerdika, j20, 22)
A local institution, DaDa bar is far more than a place to drink. The mission here is culture, and expect to find live music, art installations, readings or happenings. The website usually has an up-to-date program. Friendly staff and a welcoming vibe.
Fabrika DagaCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-444 0556; ul Veslets 10; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; W; mSerdika, j20, 22)
Classic third-gen coffee roaster with lots of exposed piping and a coffee menu scrawled on a chalkboard. Espressos, vacuum pots and French presses squeeze out java drinks from a wide variety of exotic beans. It also has a long list of salads and sandwiches, with vegan and vegetarian options. Handy spot for morning coffee and a breakfast roll or cake.
Raketa Rakia BarBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-444 611
1; ul Yanko Sakazov 15-17; h11am-midnight; W; g11, mSofiyski Universitet)
Unsurprisingly, this rakish communist-era retro bar has a huge selection of rakia (Bulgarian brandy) on hand; before you start working your way down the list, line your stomach with meat-and-cream-heavy snacks and meals. Reservations essential.
One More BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0882539592; ul Shishman 12; h8.30am-2.30am; W; mSofiyski Universitet)
Inside a gorgeous old house, this shabby-chic hot spot wouldn't be out of place in Melbourne or Manhattan: an extensive cocktail list, a delightful summer garden and jazzy background music add to its cosmopolitan appeal.
MementoCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0882422928; www.memento.cafe; pl Bulgaria 1, National Palace of Culture; h8am-2am Mon-Fri, 9am-3am Sat, 10am-2am Sun; W; mNDK)
A lively coffee bar perched on the northwestern end (right side if you're approaching from the centre) of the massive National Palace of Culture (NDK). It also serves excellent local wines and small bites to eat, such as salads and sandwiches. A good choice to begin a night out.
PavageCOCKTAIL BAR
(The Cocktail Bar; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0877151152; ul Angel Kânchev 9a; h9am-2am; W; mSerdika, j10, 12)
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 54