There are more frequent connections via Dupnitsa (6 lv, 1½ hours) from Sofia's central bus station or Ovcha Kupel bus station. From here, irregular buses reach Rila Monastery (4 lv). Repeat the process back to Dupnitsa, which also has train connections to Sofia (6 lv, two hours, seven daily).
From Blagoevgrad, daily buses (9 lv, 45 minutes, 10 daily) reach Rila village. You then need to catch a bus from Rila village to the monastery (2 lv, three to five daily) so this route requires an early start.
Taxi
A taxi from Rila village to the monastery costs about 20 lv. At peak visiting times you can hail taxis outside the monastery for your return, but you may prefer to ask a driver to wait or return for you; allow one hour for a speedy visit, but ideally two.
Drivers usually park near the western Dupnitsa gate; the eastern entrance is called the Samokov gate.
WORTH A TRIP
AROUND THE RILA MONASTERY
Kiril Meadow (Rila) is a piece of tranquil nature compared to the tourist bustle at Rila Monastery, 7km southwest. This verdant, pine-backed area has picnic spots and a simple guesthouse-cafe. Kiril Meadow is also the starting point of well-marked hiking trails.
Closer to Rila Monastery, on the road to the meadow, a trail leads to another sight: St Luke’s Hermitage (Rila). Built in 1798, the hermitage features a courtyard and the Church of Sveti Luka. Take the uphill walking trail for about 15 minutes to St Ivan’s Cave, where Ivan Rilski lived and is buried; his picture by the roadside signals the start to the uphill trail.
Sveti Ivan (born 876) lived in caves for seven years, sleeping on bare stone and eating only foraged scraps, to attain greater closeness with God. These years of extreme asceticism, and his alleged miracles, brought him fame and followers across the Bulgarian Empire.
Borovets БОРОВЕЦ
Elev 1350m / Pop 800
Though overshadowed by the more glamorous Bansko ski resort in the Pirin Mountains, Borovets claims 58km of pistes and a thumping après-ski culture that draws local and foreign visitors in droves between mid-December and early April. Just 72km southwest of Sofia, crouching beneath Mt Musala (2925m), this purpose-built ski resort is the oldest in Bulgaria. So perhaps it’s no surprise that lifts are on the creaky side and infrastructure could do with a polish; but these are small quibbles against Borovets’ crisp, pine-freshened air, tree-fringed ski runs and merry nightlife.
Borovets’ reason for being is snow. It is eerily quiet outside ski season, though there are a few hiking trails worth plying in summer.
2Activities
Skiing
Borovets has 58km of pistes among its main areas of Markudjika, Yastrebets and Sitnyakovo-Martinovi Baraki. Many are pleasant, tree-lined runs, and the majority are blue or red (beginner and intermediate level). There’s more than 30km of cross-country runs around the resort, and night skiing between 5pm and 10pm each evening.
Snowsports fans might baulk at the number of drag lifts (10, alongside three chairlifts and a gondola), and the crowds. Still, Borovets compares exceedingly well with Western European ski resorts on price. Ski or snowboard instruction costs 49 lv per hour for individual learners, and six-day ski packages bundle together gear rental, daily ski instruction and lift passes for a bargain price (adult/child 500/320 lv). Guests at upmarket hotels can get good deals on training from in-house instructors.
Hiking
From Borovets marked hiking trails – some simply following established ski runs – provide access to the eastern Rila Mountains. Domino's hiking map of the Samokov area, on sale in some shops near the ski lifts, shows some of the routes. Seek local advice and tell your hotel your planned route and return time before setting out.
Some short and popular hikes:
Borovets–Chernata Skala Take the road towards Kostenets, and follow the signs pointing south to Hizha Maritsa; three hours (fairly easy).
Borovets–Hizha Maritsa From the Borovets to Chernata Skala road, continue along the southern road; 4½ hours (moderately difficult).
Borovets–Hizha Sokolets Follow the road south through Borovets; 2½ hours (moderately easy). Another trail (1½ hours) from Hizha Sokolets heads south to Mt Sokolets (2021m).
4Sleeping
Independent travellers planning to ski (and overnight in) Borovets should book three to six months ahead for midrange or top-end hotels. Rates increase by around 25% in winter. Borovets’ streets are unnamed and few, so addresses don’t really exist.
For cheaper accommodation, base yourself in Samokov, a pleasant though unexciting midsized town, 9km north. For something truly rural, villages such as Govedartsi have cheap guesthouses, though foreign visitors are few.
Hizha MusalaHUT$
(%0896661454; http://musalahut.com; dm 15 lv)
Bulgaria's highest hiking hut, at 2389m, this simple mountain hostel is on the shores of the Musalenski Lakes, in the shadow of Mt Musala. Breakfast can be bought at its canteen.
LodgeHOTEL$$
(%07503-3850; www.thelodgehotel.eu; d/ste from 110/140 lv; pWs)
A pleasant alternative to Borovets' mega-resorts, this smaller-scale hotel has rooms that are immaculately clean, plus a little pool and sauna area. Management and staff are very warm. The hotel is inset from the main road, a few steps from Yastrebets lift.
Hotel ElaHOTEL$$
(%07503-2479; http://hotelela.com; d from 65 lv; pW)
With great-value rooms, free ski or bike storage, and a location mere paces from the gondola, this simple hotel is ideal for outdoorsy travellers with an eye for a bargain.
Hotel RilaHOTEL$$
(%07503-2658; www.rilaborovets.com; d from 92 lv; paWs)
Styled as a French alpine hotel (though it's more colossal than charming), Hotel Rila has a new gloss since being renovated. Located opposite the mountain near the main road’s upper end, the hotel has rooms that are simply furnished – deluxe options are rather more chic than standards – and its impressive facilities include a heated pool and jacuzzis, a casino and a nightclub.
Flora HotelHOTEL$$
(%07503-3100; www.flora-hotel.net; s/d/apt from 60/80/114 lv; paWs)
For friendly service and ski-rental spots on your doorstep, the four-star Flora is a reliable choice. Rooms are plain but clean, and there's a swimming pool with accompanying sauna and jacuzzi, and a restaurant and Irish-style pub to choose from. Kids under two sleep free. Children under 11 years stay for free when accompanied by two adults.
Alpin HotelHOTEL$$
(%07503-2201; http://alpinborovets.com; d/ste from 88/129 lv; paW)
The spiky gothic roof of this small hotel sets it apart from the others at the mountain’s base. Rooms are rather bare, but nicely equipped with big beds and flat-screen TVs.
Hotel SamokovHOTEL$$
(%07503-2309; www.samokov.com; s/d/apt from 58/88/134 lv; pWs)
The gargantuan Samokov has two restaurants, three bars, a nightclub, a shopping centre, a gym, a bowling alley and a ski school. Rooms are rather more bland than other resorts nearby, but prices are very competitive.
oVilla StresovVILLA$$$
(%0887924411, 02-980 4292; www.villastresov.com; d/villa from 167/607 lv; pW)
This dreamy villa is by far Borovets' most charming place to stay. The Swiss-style building is enclosed by a private garden, which bursts with rhododendrons in summer. The grand lounge and well-equipped kitchen are free for guest use, and all four double rooms have floral decorations and modern bathrooms. There's a pre-payment requirement and staff are hands-off, but this five-star retreat remains a stand-out.
Prices almost double between January and March. Staying at Villa Stresov is only advisable if you have your own vehicle.
TOP PICKS: BULGARIAN SKI RESORTS
A Bansko
A Borovets
A Pamporovo
A Chepelare
A Malîovitsa
5Eating & Drinking
Borovets’ main streets feature cafes, bars and restaurants heavy on ‘English breakfasts’ and coc
ktails reminiscent of seaside summer holidays. A great many close outside ski season.
Restaurant BulgareBULGARIAN$$
(%0888805544; mains 10-15 lv; h8am-midnight)
Touristy but difficult to resist, this big restaurant ploughs its folksy furrow with no apology. Expect traditional woven tablecloths, and decor somewhere between ski chalet and Balkan mehana (tavern). Generously proportioned salads, whopping portions of grilled river trout and barbecued meats won't leave much room for dessert. It's open year-round.
Alpin RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$
(%07503-2201; http://alpinborovets.com/restaurant; mains 9-12 lv; W)
Dark, polished wooden decor gives a cosy feel to the Alpin Hotel's restaurant. The menu spans nourishing soups and stews, barbecue, and classic skiing staples such as pizza and steaks.
Black TigerBAR
(%0888144319; h9am-1am; W)
During ski season this bar-restaurant heaves with punters, whether they're chomping on pizza, chugging rakia (Bulgarian brandy) or settling in for karaoke. It’s on the mountain’s base amid the other restaurants and hotels.
8Information
Central Borovets has exchange offices and ATMs, as do some of the larger hotels' lobbies.
A seasonal opening information and booking kiosk can be found near the Yastrebets chairlift.
ABulgaria Ski (www.bulgariaski.com) Informs on snow conditions, accommodation and news on Bulgaria’s ski resorts
Bulgarian Extreme & Freestyle Skiing Association (www.befsa.com) Website has useful information about mountain safety and avalanche risks.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Samokov (9km north) is the main public transport hub to access Borovets. Buses head to Samokov from Sofia (6 lv, 1¾ hours, hourly) and Plovdiv (7 lv, two hours, four daily). From Samokov, board a minibus to Borovets (1.30 lv, 20 minutes, hourly) between 8am and 6pm. Minibuses stop opposite Borovets’ Hotel Samokov.
Taxi
Taxis are good for out-of-town travel; note, however, that taxi rides within Borovets itself during ski season start at a considerable 10 lv. For airport transfers from Sofia or Plovidv, consider using Borovets Express (www.borovetsexpress.com).
MALîOVITSA & SEVEN RILA LAKES
Hikes in lake country and a low-key ski resort are the principal draws of remote Malîovitsa, 13km southwest of Govedartsi village at the foot of the Rila Mountains. Many hiking routes start here, the most popular leading to the spectacular Seven Rila Lakes (Sedemte Rilski Ezera). In midwinter, skiers and snowboarders (mostly locals) test 4km of pistes beneath monstrous Mt Malîovitsa (2729m), one of the tallest peaks in Rila National Park.
To get to the lakes from Malîovitsa village, first hike for about one hour to Hizha Malîovitsa (2050m). From Hizha Malîovitsa, it’s a seven-hour hike to Hizha Sedemte Ezera, an older hut with simple dormitories. Alternatively, a little further north is Hizha Rilski Ezera (%0886509409; www.rilskiezera.bg; dm/d/tr/q without bathroom from 25/70/100/125 lv, d/tr with bathroom 90/125 lv; hJun–mid-Sep), 2135m. The Rila Mountains’ best hizha (mountain hut), it should be reserved ahead in peak summer.
From the Seven Lakes, it’s an easy one-hour walk downhill to Hizha Skakavitsa (%0886509409; dm from 25 lev); alternatively, head south for Rila Monastery (a six- to seven-hour hike).
With more than 200 summits above 1000m, it's no surprise the area attracts mountaineers and rock climbers. Climbing here is only for the experienced; contact the Central Mountain School (Hristo Prodanov Training Centre; %07125-2270, 0888293907, 0885241403, 0882966319; Malîovitsa) to hire a guide for rock climbing or other mountain activities. The best season is between mid-June and mid-September.
For skiing, Malîovitsa's ski area has five drag lifts serving its 4km of pistes, of which the longest run is 1200m. Rent equipment from the Central Mountain School.
To get there, minibuses head from Sofia's Yug bus station to Samokov (4 lv to 6 lv, 1¼ hours); from there catch a minibus to Govedartsi or Malîovitsa (1.10 lv to 3.50 lv, 30 to 40 minutes, eight daily). Alternatively, book a direct, private transfer via Rila Shuttle (www.rilashuttle.com) for 38 lv for a minimum of five travellers.
Pirin Mountains ПИРИН ПЛАНИНА
In the Pirin Mountains storms eclipse sunshine in a matter of moments – apt for a region named after ancient Slavic thunder god Perun. This land of giants, with more than 100 peaks surpassing 2000m in height, is greatly admired by hikers. But it’s ski hub Bansko, Bulgaria’s best developed winter-sports resort, that truly draws crowds.
From Bansko’s southern edge spreads Pirin National Park (Unesco-listed in 1983), where 176 lakes glint among 400 sq km of fragrant pine forests and granite peaks. Fang-toothed predators make their home here – bears, wolves and jackals – but hikers are more likely to spot the park’s abundant birdlife: wall-creepers, peregrine falcons and four types of woodpecker number among 170 species seen here.
West of the park, along the well-maintained route E79 running south from Sofia, lies pleasant student town Blagoevgrad; further south, encircled by dramatic sandstone towers, is wine-producing tourist favourite Melnik.
DON'T MISS
HIKING IN THE PIRIN MOUNTAINS
A network of marked hiking trails links huts and shelters throughout Pirin National Park, but the availability of paper maps is surprisingly patchy (even in information centres). Seek out Domino’s Bansko, which has a small but detailed map in English of 12 hiking trails, and make use of the helpful http://pirinmap.com website, which has step-by-step routes and downloadable maps of the park.
The following hiking trails are especially photogenic:
Hizha Banderitsa (%0898868999; dm/r from 10/15 lv) to Baykushev’s Pine (one hour return) If you don’t have much time in Pirin National Park, drive to the car park just shy of Hizha Banderitsa and take a short circuit to this 1380-year-old tree; find the viewing platform up a set of wooden stairs.
Hizha Bezbog to Popovo Ezero (1½ hours) Trek to this sapphire lake, the deepest in the national park. Local legends say that the tiny islet in the middle is the hat of an Orthodox priest who met an unfortunate end.
Hizha Yavorov to Hizha Vihren (%07443-8279, 0889834277; dm from 12 lv) (nine hours) Best accessed from Razlog village. Experienced hikers can ply this route from northerly Hizha Yavorov south via the spectacular Premkata Saddle.
Hiking season runs from June to September. Spring snowmelt creates unexpected streams, while winter brings dangerous avalanches. Mountain guides are recommended in any season; these can be arranged at Bansko's Pirin National Park Information Centre.
Blagoevgrad БЛАГОЕВГРАД
Pop 77,440
Blagoevgrad, 100km south of Sofia, graces few travel wishlists. But its leaf-lined squares, parks and dinky historic quarter are a nice surprise for travellers passing through. It also makes a convenient base to visit Rila Monastery, or a waystation en route to Melnik.
While many large Bulgarian towns have a harried vibe, Blagoevgrad locals are warm and approachable. An injection of foreign students into its student population of nearly 16,000, attending Neofit Rilski Southwest University and American University of Bulgaria, has shaped Blagoevgrad into a youthful and cosmopolitan place. Bisected by a small river and filled with grand squares, Blagoevgrad cannot brag about any A-list attractions but its minuscule Varosha district has charm and there are plenty of shady green spaces to dally in.
History
Blagoevgrad in Ottoman times was called Gorna Dzhumaya, but its large Turkish population was displaced after the Balkan Wars of 1912–13. It was renamed by the communists in 1950, after the 19th-century Bulgarian Marxist Dimitar Blagoev.
1Sights
Between Park Loven Dom and bul Aleksandâr Stamboliyski, which runs parallel to the river on its eastern bank, is the old quarter, Varosha. Here you'll find renovated Bulgarian National Revival–period homes and art galleries.
A steep road (700m) from Varosha accesses Park Loven Dom , a shady and popular green sp
ace with great views over the city.
Church of Vavedenie Presvetiya BogoroditsiCHURCH
(Church of the Annunciation of the Virgin; ul Komitrov; h7am-8pm)
In a small, serene garden, this church (1844) has a richly frescoed portico and a unique black-and-white chequered facade. Look for the extraordinary painting of the circle of life, including continents and astrological symbols. There are more murals and icons inside.
2Activities
Escape summer's heat by tumbling down waterslides and splashing around at Aqua Park (%073-881 880; http://aquapark-bg.com; ul Haydukovi 74; adult/child 5/2 lv; h8am-8pm late May-Sep; c), 1km northeast of central Blagoevgrad.
4Sleeping
oHotel VaroshaGUESTHOUSE$
(%073-880 000; ul Bistrica 10; d/apt 35/70 lv; paW)
This four-room family guesthouse sits prettily at the northern end of Blagoevgrad's Varosha neighbourhood. Rooms are crisply decorated with dark wood fittings, within a whitewashed traditional building whose upper floor juts out over its stone base. The owner's English-speaking daughter acts as a friendly interpreter for guests. Breakfast not included.
Hotel KoronaHOTEL$
(%073-831 350; www.hotelkorona.info; ul Nikola Vaptsarov 16; s/d/apt incl breakfast from 35/40/60 lv; paW)
Located a five-minute walk from the centre, in a quieter residential area, the Korona is popular as much for its restaurant as for its lodgings. While rooms would benefit from a lick of paint, they are good value and have balconies. Larger rooms have bathtubs. Breakfast costs 5 lv.
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