by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)
of luxury were added to higher-quality day dresses rather than the overt
displays of wealth of the previous decade.
Dresses
Dresses were still more popular for daywear than other types of garments.
Button-up, shirt-style dresses with blouson tops were common. Dresses
designed in the early part of the decade sometimes had two waist seams:
one at the natural waist and one at the hip, evidencing the transition from
the earlier 1920s dropped waist. High collars or fur scarves framed the
face and added a chicness to more formal daywear dresses.
Sleeves and shoulders were the focus of the 1930s silhouette. Sleeves
themselves were generally full from the elbow to the wrist. Referred to as a
‘ coat-hanger silhouette,’ the exaggerated shoulder was the focus for a variety
of designers beginning in 1933. Pagoda shoulders, shoulder flares, tabs, and
layering all added to the bulk of the shoulder. The focus on the shoulder
was also emphasized by shoulder-wide collars, ruffles, flounces, wrap tops,
and ruffled sleeves. Capes and cape sleeves continued to be fashionable.
Skirts became narrow across the hips, were slightly flared, and were
much longer. The time of day dictated the length, and typically daywear
was approximately fourteen inches from the ground, with afternoon wear
approximately twelve inches from the ground. Inset triangular sections,
flares, and a variety of pleats added interest to skirt shapes and empha-
sized movement.
Separates
In the early 1930s, ensembles were more popular than separates, but they
slowly found their way into daywear (New York Times 1930). Knitwear,
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blouses, and skirts were becoming a part of the fashionable wardrobe.
Trousers continued along similar lines as in the previous decade. They
had a flat front, were wide legged, and were often paired with short-
sleeved, collared knit tops with geometric graphic designs. More formal
silk tops featured draped pieces and were frequently belted and trimmed
with ribbon.
Decorative Details
Daywear colors depended on time and location. Subdued tones such as
black, navy, and gray were popular in the city; browns and greens were
prevalent in the fall. Afternoon wear was usually black or a pastel shade
of peach, green, blue, or pink.
Buttons were a popular trim, especially square ones (Washington Post
1935). Innovator Elsa Shiaparelli frequently used creative shapes such as
acrobats and lovebirds. The zip fastener also began to be used on hand-
bags and eventually on daywear. Belts worn at the natural waist were
nearly universal. Fur trim made of flat pelts was also used for daywear.
OUTERWEAR
Coats
As it had in the early 1920s, the silhouette of the 1930s swung from fem-
inine to more masculine shapes as the decade progressed. Early 1930s
coats were rounded and feminine to match the silhouette of the garments
underneath. Shoulders became more pronounced as the decade pro-
gressed, and, eventually, the overall look become boxy and square. Both
collars and lapels grew in size as the decade progressed. Popular details
included added fabric at the back in the form of pleated, ‘ action-back’’
detailing, and fishtail backs, which were created with large rippling pleats
from a shoulder yoke. The early 1930s saw coat hems ending below the
calf, but they rose to the knee in 1937 and remained there for the dura-
tion of WWII.
Several coat styles carried over from the previous decade. These
included the surplice coat and polo coats. Initially worn by men to polo
matches in the 1920s, women adopted the double-breasted, caramel-
colored sport coat in the early 1930s. Later styles included the following:
the reefer coat, which was inspired by the U.S. Navy pea coat; the swagger
coat, which featured a flared or fishtail back; the hourglass-shaped prin-
cess coat; and the short, square box coat of the late 1930s.
Wool and wool blends were the most popular for cloth coats, in check,
herringbone, plaid, and ombre stripe. Solid somber colors such as tan,
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217
oxford gray, navy, and brown were popular in the early 1930s, with more
vibrant colors such as wine, rust, teal, and pink gaining popularity in the
later 1930s.
Fur coats continued to be popular with the wealthy, and particular atten-
tion was paid to silver fox, sable, and the novelty of monkey fur. Fur scarves
and pieces continued to be worn over suits and dresses as status symbols.
Shawls/Wraps
Evening wraps and capes followed feminine lines throughout the decade.
Long and slender coats in dark velvet lined in light-colored silk, taffeta,
or satin were most popular. Shorter, jacket versions were also frequently
worn. Peter Pan and bumper collars were frequently used on these gar-
ments. Inspired by period movies, evening capes of velvet, taffeta, and
satin had shawl or stand collars, with hoods becoming popular at the end
of the decade. Lengths varied and were found as short as the elbow and
as long as a full-length gown, with anything in between permitted.
SWIMWEAR/SPORTWEAR
Swimwear
Sunbathing continued to be popular, but a fitness craze was also in full
swing. Toned bodies were shown off in tighter, flesh-revealing styles.
Elastic fabrics such as Lastex and Contralex developed by companies like
Jantzen helped to shape the figure (Probert 1981b). The overskirts and
extra material of the previous decade were discarded for brief one- and
two-piece suits that resembled men’s styles. Swimsuits of the time were
also very low in the back with cross-over straps and halter necklines.
White suits became popular to show off a tan, and later bright colors
became popular. In 1935, the two-piece later known as the ‘ bikini’
appeared but did not proliferate until the 1940s. In the late thirties, the
elasticity and cut of swimwear focus moved from the back to the hips.
Although exposure was common on the beach, covering up had a mul-
titude of fashionable options. Beach pajamas, now cut on the bias, contin-
ued to be worn and were frequently seen in a variety of sporting activities,
including yachting. Other types of beachwear included beach suits, bicycle
beach suits, and basic coordinates. Other cover-up options included tailored
hip-length beach coats and capes. Fabrics for beachwear ran the gamut and
included terry cloth, spongy cotton, and wool in a variety of knits.
Large sun hats tied with a ribbon under the chin helped protect bath-
ers from sunburn. Heeled and flat sandals, sometimes with lacing up the
legs, were also frequently worn.
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WOMEN’S FASHIONS
The U.S. women’s Olympic swim team, 1936. [AP / Wide World Photos]
Skiwear
Skiing did not become a popular sport in the United States until the
1930s. Winter festivals on the east coast, beginning in 1931, and the
Winter Olympics of 1932 at Lake Placid helped the sport to rise in popu-
larity for the wealthy
elite.
The typical ski outfit for both men and women was a double-breasted
boxy jacket worn with Norwegian-style trousers that were gathered at the
ankle using Lastex yarn. Stirrup pants were later introduced at the 1936
Olympics in Germany. Darker colors were initially worn, with brighter
tones appearing later. Expert skiers wore white, which in the 1920s had
been frowned on. Two-tone suits and brightly trimmed accessories were
also popular. Typical high-fashion fabrics such as gabardine, silk, wool,
and jersey were waterproofed for skiwear. Schiaparelli even went so far as
to introduce tortoiseshell-rimmed ski goggles in 1936 for wealthy women
to wear on the slopes.
1930s, The Great Depression
219
Golf
One- and two-piece ensembles in tweed were popular for golf. Some were
adamantly in favor of one over the other. However, professional golfer
Molly Gourlay claimed that ‘ any form of one-piece garment; anything
hung from the shoulders impedes balance’’ (Lee-Potter 1984, 35).
Brightly colored double-breasted jackets in suede were popular through-
out the decade. Coordinating pieces that allowed for adaptation to chang-
ing weather were created in contrasting colors, with flamboyant details.
Companies, such as Burberry, produced wraparound skirts, culottes, short
tailored jackets, and similar garments for the relatively formal sport,
although by the end of the decade slacks became acceptable.
Tennis
The shirt and shorts suit was typical attire in the early thirties. By the late
thirties, a shorts dress with side button was fashionable. Halter necklines
were popular. The cardigan of the 1920s was replaced by a silk or tweed
coat. Detailing focused on the back and included small bows, buttons,
and contrasting trim. Voluminous skirts were created through goring and
bias cuts rather than pleating. Sportswear for tennis was made of washable
silk, linen, or broadcloth. Tennis celebrities caused sensations in the 1930s
as well. Mrs. Fearnley-Whittingstall played without stockings in 1931,
and Alice Marble wore shorts to Wimbledon in 1933.
Other Activewear
Other fashionable sports for women in the thirties included waterskiing,
running, fencing, and mountaineering. All sports clothing required expert
tailoring. In general, shorts and pockets were the innovations of the day.
Cycling required pants or shorts made of sturdy materials such as flannel,
leather, or tweed and were worn with masculine shirts. For hunting and
fishing, various types of bifurcated garments became acceptable for
women. These included trousers, plus-fours, jodhpurs, and divided skirts.
UNDERWEAR AND INTIMATE APPAREL
Undergarments
When fashion returned to a feminine figure and the bias cut grew popu-
lar, undergarments became smooth, undecorated, and supportive. Popular
backless, figure-hugging evening gowns were frequently worn without any
underwear.
Shaped bras for the youthful figure elevated, separated, and defined
breasts by using gathers, adjustable drawstrings, tucks, darts, and elastic.
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WOMEN’S FASHIONS
Ginger Rogers wears a glamorous V-neck nightgown that looks like an evening
gown, from the 1937 film Shall We Dance, with Fred Astaire. [Courtesy of
Photofest]
Those with less-ample bustlines could use various kinds of padding and
falsies that were developed over the decade. The now standard A, B, C,
and D cup sizes were established by the Warner company in 1935, and
the strapless bra was introduced in 1938 (Laubner 2000).
Panties were introduced for the first time in the 1930s and resembled
the mid-thigh-length, wide-legged tap pants worn by tap dancers in mov-
ies. Other undergarment options included bloomers, bloomer knee suit,
step-in, pantie-girdles, vests, union suits, and a variety of other combina-
tion garments.
Sleepwear
During the early part of the decade, nightgowns were shapeless, unfitted
tubes, but they became more defined through the use of vertical pin tucks
and sashes tied at the back. In the mid-thirties, high-waisted gowns were
popular, and, by the late 1930s, nightgowns resembled eveningwear. They
featured V necks with a high empire waist.
Sleeping pajamas consisted of wide-legged trousers, with a belted or
girdled top featuring decorations similar to those seen on nightgowns. In
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221
later years, man-tailored pajamas became more popular, complete with a
button-front tailored top. Late 1930s sleeping pajamas included shoulder
yokes, puffed sleeves, and square shoulders.
Other garments
Loungewear included the ever-popular lounge pajama, bathrobes, whose
construction generally resembled outerwear garments, extravagant bed
jackets of marabou feathers, and satin housecoats.
HEADWEAR AND HAIRSTYLES
Headwear
Although the 1920s was dominated by variations on a single style of hat,
the 1930s saw a continuous flow of new shapes and styles. In general, hats
revealed more of the head than in the previous decade and were influ-
enced by fantasy and surrealism, especially those designed by Elsa Schia-
parelli. Many brims draped low over one eye, adding drama. Sports hats
were a necessity and had casual soft crowns and brims. The fez, boaters,
tricornes, pillboxes, flat straw hats, berets, and hats based on professional
headwear (tailors, sailors, and cowboys) were also popular. Just before the
start of WWII, veils became popular. Film continued to influence fashion
trend, and Greta Garbo’s headwear in Mata Hari and other films made a
significant impact.
Hairstyles
Taking over from the 1920s bob, the ‘‘floue’’ became the most prominent
hairstyle of the 1930s. The floue was waved and fluid over the crown of
the head, ending in a nestle of curls or ringlets at the nape of the neck. In
general, hair was longer than in the previous decade, although Vogue
noted in 1930 that ‘ long hair is not smart’ (Probert 1981a, 30). Holly-
wood gained momentum in its influence on hair, with Jean Harlow’s
blond tresses leading the pack in the 1931 film Platinum Blonde.
Cosmetics
During the 1930s, the cosmetics industry continued to grow, mostly as
a result of Hollywood’s continual prevalence in society through films
and advertising campaigns. Face powder, rouge, lipstick, and mascara
were now standard in the beautification process. Innovations contin-
ued, and false eyelashes became available for the first time (Watson
2004). A cake form of Maybelline mascara was also available to all
levels of consumers. Eyebrows continued to be the focus, and some
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WOMEN’S FASHIONS
women even removed theirs entirely to draw them in high and arched
like Jean Harlow’s.
FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR
Footwear
The 1930s saw a shift in focus for shoe design. Comfort became more of
a concern to designers and shoppers at large. To this end, shoes became
/> wider and toes less pointed. Heels were not as high and were constructed
with a wider base for a more solid foundation.
Also during the 1930s, differences between shoe types became more
pronounced, with specific shoes for specific activities. Following a more
widespread interest in health, innovations in sports shoes were prevalent.
Commonly known as the tennis shoe, the first linen shoes with rubber
soles were developed in 1934 and were used for golf, sailing, and other
sports activities. Along with flat sandals, these shoes were typically worn
with shorts and women’s trousers. Heeled sandals were worn with eve-
ningwear in a variety of styles, including the cutaway or open toes. Sling-
backs were another alternative.
The first platform shoe was developed in the mid-thirties by the
French shoemaker Roger Vivier. Innovative Italian designer Salvatore
Ferragamo designed the first wedge shoe in 1936. Wood and cork were
used to create these soles and were frequently covered with cloth and
leather and were decorated with sequins, embroidery, or bows.
After the vibrant colors of the 1920s, shoes of the 1930s were more
subdued in tone and were often made to match the color of the dress.
Velvet, cr^epe de Chine, and satin were popular materials for evening foot-
wear. Leather continued to be worn during the day and evening. How-
ever, beginning in 1939, wartime leather shortages caused considerable
restrictions on shoe styles in Europe, which later affected the U.S. market.
Legwear
Silk was still the most popular material for stockings, but the 1930s saw
the rise of rayon as an alternative. By 1939, however, rayon had been
completely replaced by nylon.
OTHER ACCESSORIES
Jewelry
Whimsical, imaginative jewelry by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli was
inspired by surrealist ideas. Native- and tribal-influenced jewelry was
1940–1946, World War II
223
popular, and art deco continued to influence the early 1930s. Chinese and
East Indian motifs and shapes were particularly favored by jewelers such
as Cartier. Alternatively, the 1930s also saw an increase in the use of cos-
tume jewelry using materials such as Bakelite and celluloid. Both real and
artificial flowers were frequently used for corsages, necklaces, and brace-
lets, reflecting a late 1930s interest in romanticism.