“Well, she used to be as pretty as Clare Boothe Luce. I must say, she’s kind of grand for Denver, Colorado, but that woman is a witch. I believe she’s evil. Hugh is all but convinced, you know, that she did murder his father. How would you like to grow up with a little thought like that in your coffee mug every morning?”
“Yes, but he has come a long way since then.”
“All the same, Hugh can’t take in too much human stuff at once.”
“Can you?”
“Well, I always thought I could until the other night. That Mary Jane place! I wanted so much for Hugh to obtain a bit of insight into what the rest of America might be like, and then it was awful—I discovered I’m just like Hugh. Narrow as a needle.”
“I don’t know about your mate,” I said, “but you’re not narrow. You’re wonderful.”
“Harry, you have the kindest heart. It’s because you’re part Jewish, I think. They say the Jews are kindhearted. Is that true?”
“Well, I’m only one-eighth. I hardly qualify.”
“It’s homeopathic. One touch of the tar, baby.” She looked at me with her head at an angle. “Harry, do you know, I feel naked in front of you?”
“What?”
“I’ve never talked about myself this much before. I try to hide how simple I am. It’s easy with Hugh. His mind is on his work. But you know my little secret now. I want to succeed at my job. And I’m too innocent and too ignorant. Do you know I also envy you for going off to Montevideo?”
“It’s only espionage there. Hugh says that’s no better than nuts and bolts.”
“Foo on Hugh. There! I’ve wanted to say that since I married him. Poo, foo, on Hugh! I envy you, I tell you. Espionage!” she said in a breathy, throaty voice. Only after a moment did I realize that she was doing a parody of someone like Marilyn Monroe.
“Hugh does insist that the real game is counterespionage,” I said.
“Yes, wonderful Feliks Edmundovitch Dzerzhinsky. Do you know, I’m bored with Hugh.”
Bored with Hugh? Now I knew what they meant by time standing still. It did not. It slowed down, and took a turn, and the colors in the room began to alter.
“No,” she said, “I adore him. I’m mad about him. Hugh throws one maniac of a good time in bed.” The look in her eye suggested that she had saddled up a centaur and was riding him. “It’s just that he won’t do sixty-nine.”
At the look of consternation on my face, she began to laugh. “Hugh is awful,” she said. “He says that sixty-nine is nothing but counterespionage for amateurs.”
“What?” I had to say again.
“Oh, you know. You’re-in-my-brain-I’m-in-yours.” I had no time even to be properly startled by this before she added, “Harry, have you ever done soixante-neuf?”
“Well, frankly, no. I don’t know if I want to think about it.”
“I hear it’s heavenly.”
“You do?”
“One of my married friends told me so.”
“Who is it?”
“Oh, Harry, you’re as naïve as me. Don’t look so stricken. I haven’t gone mad. I’ve just decided to talk like Lenny Bruce. Don’t worry, dear godfather of our child, Hugh and I are very much married.”
“Good,” I said. “I don’t think you’re nearly so naïve as you claim.”
“You may not be the one to judge,” she said. “Now, Harry, do me a favor. Write long letters from Uruguay. Really long ones. Tell me all about your work.” She bent forward to whisper: “The things I’m not supposed to know. I’m so ignorant of the basic day-to-day stuff. I need this kind of knowledge for my own work.”
“You’re asking me to break the law,” I answered.
“Yes,” she said, “but we won’t get caught, and it’s very simple.”
She reached into her blouse for a piece of paper. “I wrote out all the instructions. This is a perfectly safe way of sending letters back and forth. It’s all done with the State Department pouch. Absolutely airtight.” She nodded at what must have been the look in my eye. “Yes,” she said, “I suppose I am asking you to break the law. But not really, darling,” and Kittredge gave one of her kisses, a fell, wet, kissing cousin of a full kiss. “Write the longest letters you can,” she said. “Put enough in to get us hanged.” She gave the oddest laugh, as if nothing in all the world could be as sensuous as conspiracy itself.
I didn’t look at her note until I was on the plane. It was but a few lines long:
Just address your pouch envelope to Polly Galen Smith, Route AR-105-MC. Once the pouch reaches Washington, your letters will be delivered to a post office box in Georgetown that Polly still holds but has passed over to me, key and all, since she has obtained an additional box for her own use. Hence, she won’t ever know who is writing to me.
Besitos,
Kittredge
PART FOUR
MONTEVIDEO 1956–1959
1
Montevideo
Sunday, October 14, 1956
Dear Kittredge,
I haven’t been out of this city since I arrived. From the little I’ve been told at the Embassy, our work is often heavy enough to call for sixty- and seventy-hour weeks. The consequence is that Montevideo, with its one million people, half the population of Uruguay, is all I’m likely to get a look at for a while.
My hotel, the Victoria Plaza, a brand-new red-brick edifice, all of sixteen stories high, looks, I fear, like a cardboard carton on end. “That’s where the action is,” E. Howard Hunt advised me before I left, and I assumed that my future Chief of Station would know, and yes, there is action of a sort—businessmen of various nationalities in the hotel bar looking to make deals. Since I can barely afford the room, I’ve spent my time walking about. You see, on Thursday when I arrived, my superiors, all two of them, were absent on Company business, and Porringer, the man who met me at the airport, told me to look around until Monday and get the feel of the city, because I wouldn’t have a chance later. He was too jammed right then, he added, to install me properly.
Wonderful. I have the feeling this is the last weekend I am going to have free until Christmas. My cohorts in our small wing of the Embassy up on the second floor have the look of Hugh’s Mormons. Hellishly overworked individuals.
Well, it’s also hell to be alone in a country. I’ve been so tired from walking all day that I fall asleep right after dinner—no nightlife to report as yet—then up again in the morning to stroll around again. Would you believe it? I find Montevideo half beguiling. That is an achievement since, to the casual eye, it’s nothing remarkable. For that matter, most of Uruguay looks to be of modest interest. It can boast of no Andes; indeed, it hardly has hills, and there’s nothing of the great Amazonian jungle. Just rolling plains and cattle. Montevideo itself is a seaport on the estuary of the River Plata where it enters the Atlantic, and a lot of silt from the riverbottom separating Uruguay and Argentina colors the water a clay-gray brown, not in the least reminiscent of the blue Atlantic we know in Maine. Nor does the port amount to much. It looks like Mobile, Alabama, or Hoboken, New Jersey; all industrial harbors look the same, I guess. Access to the docks is mostly interdicted, so you can’t wander down to where they unload. Anyway, the port seems dingy. Winches scream in the distance.
The main street, called the Avenue of the 18th of July, is full of bustle, and has a predictable plethora of stores—nothing special about the main street. An occasional plaza sports a bronze general on a horse.
All right, I know you’re ready to comment—what is unique about Montevideo? And I answer: Nothing, until you learn how to look.
At this point, I put aside what I had written. It was not a lively enough letter to satisfy my lady.
Montevideo
October 14, 1956
Dear Kittredge,
You wouldn’t know you were in South America, at least not by my preconceived idea of this continent. There’s no heavy foliage and very few Indians. Apparently, they all died off from infectious diseases br
ought in by the first Europeans. So, on the street you see a Mediterranean population—Spanish, with an underwriting of Italian. Earthy, serious-looking people. The older architecture, Spanish baroque and Spanish colonial, is not inspiring unless you develop an eye for little surprises. This land has a spirit I could not locate until it came to me: I feel as if I’m living in an ink drawing of Italy in the eighteenth century. I suppose I am thinking of the sort of prints you find in old English travel books—a lonely hiker rests on a knoll, and contemplates an empty landscape. All is in repose. The ruins have crumbled gently and live in peace with the edifices that still stand. Time is a presence high in the sky, hardly moving. Eternity has come to rest at noon.
For example: the Legislative Palace. During the week, all governing takes place here. It is as large as a railroad station and looks like a cross between Versailles and the Parthenon, yet in front of this huge wedding cake, at the debouchment of the grand and empty Avenue of the Libertador General Lavelleja, stands one policeman dressed in the hat and cape of a Paris cop. One bicyclist rides by. It is Sunday, but even so! On a side street off this edifice, a small plump man in a blue workingman’s smock is entertaining kids with an incredible foot-and-forehead species of juggling with a soccer ball. It seems medieval. On the next street a beggar sits on a box, his swollen foot stretched out before him.
Now, of course, there’s all sorts of bustle in parts of town. The stores have names like Lola and Marbella—merely to sell clothing! Hordes of materialistic-looking shoppers are out on Saturday. Carcasses hang everywhere in the butcher shops, and bloody as hell. In fact, they eat so much meat in this land (238 lbs. a year per capita!) that you can smell barbecue grease on every street corner. It gets into everything you eat, fish, chicken, eggs, all those great galloping beef on the pampas. Yet this smell of the griddle is not the element I find unique. It’s the back streets. Montevideo is spreading out all the time, and the old parts don’t get rebuilt, merely repaired in a fashion. Most of the natives here are not living in history as we know it. When I left Washington, everybody was concerned with Hungary and Suez and the presidential campaign; now I feel far away from the world’s troubles. In Montevideo, all the public clocks seemed to have stopped. It is always 9:00 and 2:30 and 5:21 in different parts of town. Not much on the scale of world history is ever going to happen, evidently, in Uruguay. The trick, I expect, is to know how to live for the sake of living.
For example: the cars. They love automobiles here. You see old vehicles of every make and twenty-year vintage. They keep patching and repainting them. I think the owners can’t afford enough paint to do the entire job at once, so they start with a half-pint and cover the worst rust spot first with whatever pigment is available, usually about enough to slap up half of one door. Then a month later, another patch of rust pops out. If they can’t find the old paint can, they put on another hue. After a while, the cars clatter by like Joseph’s coat of many colors. What verve! I must say they prance like prize bulls at a fair.
In many neighborhoods, however, the streets are peacefully spooky. The other end of the world may be rushing along, but not on some poor block of shabby houses where the only vehicle in sight is an old olive-drab Chevy sporting bright yellow and orange splotches. Such silence prevails that I feel as if I’m in a wood. A boy in the near distance is wearing a yellow sweater, same hue as the bright yellow someone splashed on the old olive-drab car. Another old car, on another old street, is jacked up by the front end, its hood lifted so high that it looks like a duck quacking. It has been repainted a brilliant off-blue. Above it, on a battered old balcony, laundry is drying. I promise you, Kittredge, one of the shirts is the same off-blue as the car.
I think when a land is sheltered from the storms of history, smaller phenomena take on prominence. In a Maine meadow protected from winds, wildflowers pop up in the oddest places as if their only purpose is to delight the eye. Here, down the length of one low, commonplace, nineteenth-century building, I see an ongoing palette of stone and stucco: brown and gray-brown, aquamarine, olive-gray, and tangerine. Then lavender. Three foundation stones in rose. Just as the cars reflect the sediments left in old paint cans, so, under the sooty pervasive city-color is this other subtler display. I begin to suspect that these people keep an inner eye on their street, and if a unique patch of moss-green has been put on a sign, then there, at the far end of the block, someone chooses to paint a doorway in the same hue of green. Time and dirt and damp and peeling plaster work their inter-washings into the view. Old doors fade until you cannot determine whether the original was blue or green or some mysterious gray reflecting light from the spring foliage. October, remember, is like April here in the Southern Hemisphere.
In the Old City, on a street that runs down to the water’s edge, the gray claylike beach is deserted. At the bottom of this vista is an empty plaza with a lone column standing against the sea. Can they have selected the spot to prove that De Chirico knows how to paint? So often in these lonely landscapes, one sees a solitary figure dressed in mourning.
The old city, and the medium old city, and the city they have put up in the last fifty years are all, as I say, quietly crumbling. What dreams must have gone into the construction of all these baroque whirls and turns and whorls and fenestrations. On the commercial streets are bay fronts and wrought-iron balconies, round windows, oval windows, ogival, and Gothic and art-nouveau windows, and roof balustrades with broken pediments. Iron gates lean in various stages of disrepair, old doors are bereft of pieces of their molding, and laundry hangs in the apertures of grand windows.
Kittredge, forgive me for going on at such length after being here only a few days, but, do you know, I never had an opportunity to enjoy Berlin, or even look at it. I know you were expecting a little more substance, but a good rule to follow in these matters is to make certain that one’s means of sending a letter actually do work.
Yours devotedly,
Herrick
I didn’t receive a reply for two weeks. Then came a short note. “Dispense with the excelsior. Send the dry goods. K.”
2
I WAS HURT. I DID NOT REPLY. AS I FORESAW, THE NEXT COUPLE OF WEEKS went by with a great deal of work at the Embassy, and the only change in my personal life during this period was to transport myself and my two suitcases from the Victoria Plaza Hotel to the Cervantes, a considerably cheaper hostelry, situated next door to a fleabag. In the early hours of the morning, sounds came up from the gutter of bottles breaking.
Then came a second note from Kittredge.
November 13, 1956
Dear Harry—forgive all. Some days I feel like Catherine of Russia. Poor Hugh. Poor Herrick. It’s all the fault of the impatient child I bear. An imperious spirit will dwell among us before long. In the interim, know that on rereading, I thought your dance of the half-pint paint cans was fun. Will you buy me one of those gaily painted autos for Christmas? We miss you terribly, Hugh without knowing it, I more than making up for both of us. A dear spirit is among the missing. Do write me a nice letter full of shtuff. Detail the daily dreary if you will.
Your number one.
Kittredge
P.S. The routing for mail works perfectly at this end. I assume it’s ditto at yours.
November 16, 1956
Dear Catherine of all Russia,
How I prefer the kiss to the knout! Since you ask for my working day, I’ll give it. We’re an unhappy station. That is because we are waiting for E. Howard Hunt to arrive. The present Chief of Station, Minot Mayhew, is an old Foreign Service officer who had loads of seniority and so was able to sign on in 1947 with the Agency at the level of Chief of Station. He has been at that level ever since, doing stints in Bolivia and Paraguay. Now Mayhew is waiting to retire, and does nothing. No social functions. Not much Agency work. He comes in at nine with the rest of us, and by ten is usually over at his stockbroker’s. Everyone agrees, however, that he is nifty at one aspect of his job: He keeps up decent relations with the Ambassador. I’
ve heard horror tales, as I’m sure you have, of how strained relations can get at an Embassy when the Ambassador looks upon the Chief of Station with a jaundiced eye. Here, however, due to Mayhew, we’re left at peace in our portion of the second-story wing. The Ambassador, Jefferson Patterson, understands Spanish, but can only speak with a stammer, so Mayhew, whose cover title is First Secretary, fields some of the Ambassador’s work with Uruguayan officials. Mayhew has also been instrumental in bringing over, via diplomatic pouch, soccer equipment for a Catholic team in Montevideo. Other than that, his rating is close to zero. Our real direction comes from the Deputy Chief of Station, an ex–World War II Marine Lieutenant with a bull neck named Augustus “Gus” Sonderstrom. Augustus must have been a very tough guy once, but has now gone, not to seed, but to beer belly. He tends to give his all to golf, and it’s not as silly as it sounds. At the country club, he brings along our Operations Officer or Communications Officer to play in foursomes with various local government and business types. That establishes a climate for favors. The Russians, despite an injection of new KGB types called “joy-boys” (who wear London suits instead of Russian burlap bags), are not yet competitive in golf and tennis. So, Gus Sonderstrom’s social contacts with Uruguayan golfer-officials often lets us hold some good cards. On the other hand, we need all the help we can get. The President of the Uruguayan government, Luis Batlle, represents the Colorado Party, which has won every election here for the last hundred years. Socialist-oriented, the Colorados spend and spend. Uruguay is a true welfare state—which may be why it’s so peaceful and crumbling. This Luis Batlle is anti-American and at the moment is working out cattle and hide deals with the U.S.S.R.
I was thrust into all this on my second day of real work in the Embassy, which, by the way, is a splendid white mansion. Vaguely antebellum, it has a veranda fronted by two-story white wooden columns, and is situated on nothing less than the Avenida Lord Ponsonby, next to a park so beautifully laid-out that it could only have been designed by a Parisian landscape artist, circa 1900. In this part of Montevideo, rest assured, nothing crumbles. Our Embassy is as spotless as Navy whites, and Sonderstrom in our first interview wants to know about my tennis game. Seems we need one more good player for the country club intrigues. Did I bring a racket, Gus wants to know.
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