3 tablespoons pignoli (pine nuts)
TO BAKE THE TORTA
Wax paper OR kitchen parchment
A 10-inch springform pan
Butter for smearing the pan
1. To make the dough, pour the flour onto a work surface and shape it into a mound. Make a hollow in the center of the mound and put into it the salt, a few grindings of pepper, the dissolved yeast, and the softened lard or olive oil. Knead it for about 8 minutes. It is best if the dough is kept soft, but if you have difficulty handling it, either add another tablespoon or two of flour, or knead it in the food processor.
2. Shape the kneaded dough into a ball, and put it into a lightly floured bowl. Cover the bowl with a damp, doubled-up cloth towel, and put in a warm, protected corner of the kitchen until the dough has doubled in bulk, about 1 to 1½ hours.
3. Preheat oven to 375°.
4. While the dough is rising, prepare the filling. Trim the escarole of any bruised or discolored outer leaves, then cut it into 2-inch long pieces. Soak them in a basin filled with cold water, scooping them up, emptying the basin, refilling it with fresh water, and soaking them again, repeating the process 3 or 4 times.
5. Bring 3 to 4 quarts water to a boil, add salt, and drop in the escarole. Cook until tender, about 15 minutes, depending on its youth and freshness. Drain it and as soon as it is cool enough to handle, squeeze it gently to cause it to shed as much moisture as possible. Set it aside.
6. Put the olive oil and garlic in a large saute pan, turn on the heat to medium, and cook the garlic, stirring, until it becomes colored a pale gold. Add the escarole, turning it over once or twice to coat it well. Reduce heat to medium low and cook for 10 minutes, turning the escarole from time to time. If the pan juices are watery, turn the heat up and reduce them quickly. Add the capers, turn them over with the escarole, then add the olives, turn over again, and remove from heat. Mix in the anchovies and pine nuts. Taste and correct for salt, then pour the entire contents of the pan into a bowl and set aside to cool.
7. When the dough has doubled in bulk, divide it into 2 unequal parts, one twice the size of the other. Roll out the larger piece of dough into a circular sheet large enough to line the bottom and sides of the springform pan. It should come out approximately ¼ inch thick. To simplify transferring this to the pan, roll out the dough on lightly floured wax paper or kitchen parchment.
8. Smear the inside of the springform pan with butter, pick up the wax paper or kitchen parchment with the sheet of dough on it, and turn it over onto the pan, covering the bottom and letting it come up the sides. Peel away the wax paper or parchment, and smooth the dough, flattening and evening off any particularly bulky creases with your fingers.
9. Pour all the escarole filling from the bowl into the pan, and level it off with a spatula.
10. Roll out the remaining piece of dough, employing the same method you used earlier. Lay it over the filling, covering it completely. Press the edge of the top sheet of bread dough against the edge of that lining the pan. Make a tight seal all around, folding any excess dough toward the center.
11. Place on the uppermost rack of the preheated oven and bake until the torta swells slightly, and the top becomes colored a pale gold, about 45 minutes. When you take it out of the oven, unlatch the pan’s spring, and remove the hoop. Allow the torta to settle a few minutes before loosening it from the bottom and transferring it to a serving platter. Serve either lukewarm or at room temperature.
FINOCCHIO
Although there is an English equivalent for finocchio—Florence fennel—for many cooks it’s the Italian word that has achieved everyday usage. Fennel is related to anise, but its cool, mild aroma has none of its kin’s sharpness. People eat finocchio raw, in salads, but it is an exceptionally fine vegetable for braising, sautéing, gratinéing, and frying. The bulbous base is the part that is used, while the stems and leaves are usually discarded. When wild fennel is called for but not available, finocchio’s, leafy tops are a tolerable substitute.
When and how to buy The best season for finocchio, when it is juiciest and its fragrance is sweetest and freshest, is from fall to spring, but it is also available in summer. Italians distinguish between male and female finocchio, the first with a stocky, round bulb, the latter flat and elongated. The “male” is crisper and less stringy, and it has a finer scent, qualities that are particularly desirable when it is to be eaten raw. For cooking, the flatter bulb is acceptable, but as long as it’s equally fresh, the thicker, rounder one will always taste better.
Braised Finocchio with Olive Oil
For 4 servings
3 large finocchi OR 4 to 5 smaller ones
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil Salt
1. Cut the finocchio tops where they meet the bulb and discard them. Detach and discard any of the bulb’s outer parts that may be bruised or discolored. Slice off about ⅛ inch from the butt end. Cut the bulb vertically into slices somewhat less than ½ inch thick. Wash the slices in several changes of cold water.
2. Put the finocchio and the olive oil in a large saucepan, add just enough water to cover, and turn on the heat to medium. Do not put a lid on the pot. Cook, turning the slices over from time to time, until the finocchio becomes colored a glossy, pale gold and feels tender when prodded with a fork. Bear in mind that the butt end of the slice should be firm compared with the softer upper part of the slice. It should take between 25 and 40 minutes, depending on the freshness of the finocchio. If while cooking you find the liquid in the pan becoming insufficient, add up to ⅓ cup water. By the time the finocchio is done, all the water must be absorbed. Add salt, toss the slices once or twice, then transfer the contents of the pan to a warm platter and serve at once.
Variation with Butter and Parmesan
Omit the olive oil in the ingredients list of the preceding recipe, and add ¼ cup butter and 3 tablespoons freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese. Follow the cooking procedure described in the recipe above, substituting butter for the olive oil. When the finocchio is done, sprinkle with salt, add the grated Parmesan, toss three or four times, then serve at once.
Breaded Fried Finocchio
For 4 to 6 servings
3 finocchi
2 eggs
1½ cups unflavored bread crumbs, lightly toasted, spread on a plate
Vegetable oil
Salt
1. Trim, slice, and wash the finocchio as described in Braised Finocchio with Olive Oil.
2. Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil, then drop in the sliced finocchio. Cook at a moderate boil until the butt end of the slice feels tender, but firm when prodded with a fork. Drain, and set aside to cool.
3. Beat the eggs with a fork in a deep dish or small bowl.
4. Dip the cooled, parboiled finocchio slices in the beaten egg, letting excess egg flow back into the dish, then turn it in the bread crumbs, coating both sides. Press the bread crumbs onto each slice with the palm of your hand until your hand feels dry and the crumbs are sticking firmly to the finocchio.
5. Pour enough oil into a frying pan to come ½ inch up the sides. When you think the oil is quite hot, test it by dipping into it the end of one of the slices. If it sizzles, the oil is ready for frying. Slip as many slices of finocchio into the pan as will fit loosely without overlapping. Cook until they form a crisp, golden brown crust on one side, then turn them and do the other side. When both sides are done, use a slotted spoon or spatula to transfer them to a cooling rack to drain or to a platter lined with paper towels. Repeat the procedure until all the finocchio is done. Sprinkle with salt and serve at once.
Sautéed Mixed Greens with Olive Oil and Garlic
THIS SOFT MIXTURE of greens is meant to be spread over wedges of piadina, the flat griddle bread, but it is so immensely satisfying that you should try it as a side dish on its own or with sausages or alongside any roast of pork.
A combination of both mild and slightly bitter greens is necessary to the successful balance of the mixture. Savoy cabb
age and spinach are the mild components, cime di rapa, the bitter. For the spinach you can substitute Swiss chard. For cime di rapa—the long clusters of stalks with skinny leaves, topped with pale yellow buds, available from fall to spring—substitute Catalonia chicory or dandelion greens or other bitter field greens with which you may be acquainted.
For 6 servings
1 pound fresh spinach OR Swiss chard
½ pound cime di rapa, also called rapini or broccoletti di rapa
1-pound head Savoy cabbage
Salt
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
1. Snap off the thicker, older stems from the spinach leaves, or detach the broadest, more mature stalks from the Swiss chard and soak either green in a basin filled with cold water. Scoop up the spinach or chard, empty out the water together with any soil, refill the basin with fresh cold water, and put the green back in to soak. Repeat the operation several times until you find no more soil settling to the bottom of the basin.
2. In a separate basin soak the cime di rapa in exactly the same manner.
3. Pull off and discard the darkest outer leaves of the Savoy cabbage. Cut off the butt end of the stem, and cut the head into 4 parts.
4. Bring 3 to 4 quarts water to a boil, add 1 tablespoon salt, and put in the cime di rapa. Put a lid on the pot, setting it ajar, and cook until tender, about 8 to 12 minutes, depending on the green’s freshness and youth. Drain and set aside. Refill the pot with fresh water, and if using Swiss chard, cook it in the same manner. After draining the chard, refill the pot and cook the cabbage using the same procedure, except that you must omit the salt. Cook the cabbage until the thickest part of the head is easily pierced by a fork, about 15 to 20 minutes.
5. If using spinach, cook it in a covered pan with ½ tablespoon salt and just the moisture that clings to its leaves from the soak. Cook until tender, about 10 minutes or more, depending on the spinach. Drain and set aside.
6. Gently but firmly squeeze all the moisture you can out of all the greens. Chop them together to a rather coarse consistency.
7. Put the oil and garlic in a large saute pan, and turn on the heat to medium. Cook and stir the garlic until it becomes colored a very pale gold, then put in all the chopped greens. Add salt and pepper and turn them over completely 3 or 4 times to coat them well. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, turning the greens frequently. Taste and correct for salt. Serve promptly.
Ahead-of-time note You can cook and prepare the greens up to this point several hours in advance of the time you are going to serve them. Do not keep overnight, and do not refrigerate.
Braised Leeks with Parmesan Cheese
A FAVORITE with Italians from Roman times and earlier, the leek is often a part of soups, or of the vegetable background of some meat dishes. But this subtle relative of onion and garlic has merits enough to deserve a featured role, as in the preparation described below. As a tasty variant, you can follow exactly the same procedure using scallions in place of leeks.
For 4 servings
4 large OR 6 medium leeks
3 tablespoons butter
Salt
3 tablespoons freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1. Pull off any yellow or withered leaves from the leeks. Trim away the roots from the bulbous end. Do not cut off the green tops. Cut each leek lengthwise in two. Wash the leeks very thoroughly under cold running water, spreading the tops with your hands to make sure any hidden bits of grit are washed away.
2. Put the leeks in a pan just broad or long enough so that they can lie flat and straight. Add the butter, salt, and enough water to cover, put a lid on the pan, and turn on the heat to medium low. Cook until the thickest part of the leeks feels tender when prodded with a fork, about 15 to 25 minutes, depending on the vegetable’s youth and freshness. Turn them from time to time while they cook.
3. When done, uncover the pan, turn the heat up to high, and boil away all the watery juices in the pan. In the process the leeks should become lightly browned. Before removing from heat, add the grated Parmesan, turn the leeks over once or twice, then transfer to a warm platter and serve at once.
Smothered Boston Lettuce with Pancetta
For 4 servings
1½ pounds Boston lettuce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup onion chopped fine
⅓ cup pancetta chopped fine
Salt
1. Detach all the leaves from the lettuce heads, saving the hearts to use raw in a salad. Soak the leaves in a basin filled with cold water. Scoop up the lettuce, empty out the water together with any soil, refill the basin with fresh cold water, and put the leaves back in to soak. Repeat the operation several times until you find no more soil settling to the bottom of the basin.
2. When you have drained the leaves for the last time, shake off all the water, either using a salad spinner or gathering them in a cloth towel and snapping it sharply 3 or 4 times.
3. Tear or cut each leaf into 2 or 3 pieces, depending on its size, and set them aside.
4. Put the oil, onion, and pancetta in a saute pan, turn the heat on to medium, and cook the onion, stirring from time to time, until it becomes colored a deep gold.
5. Put in as many of the lettuce pieces as will not overfill the pan. If the lettuce doesn’t all fit at first, you can add the rest when the first batch has cooked briefly and diminished in bulk. Add salt, cover the pan, and cook until the central rib of the leaves just reaches tenderness, about 30 to 40 minutes. Turn the lettuce over from time to time as it cooks. When it is done, if the juices in the pan are watery, remove the cover, raise the heat to high, and boil them away quickly. Serve promptly. Do not reheat or refrigerate.
MUSHROOMS
Nearly all the fresh mushrooms available for cooking today are cultivated. The wild boletus edulis—Italy’s highly prized porcini—has the richest flavor of any mushroom, but it is rarely found fresh in markets outside Italy and France. It is, however, widely distributed in dried form, and when properly reconstituted, its intense fragrance adds a powerful fillip to the flavor of sauces, of some soups and meats, and of dishes with fresh, cultivated mushrooms. Among the cultivated varieties available fresh, the following are the most useful in Italian cooking:
White mushrooms It is, by an overwhelming margin, the most common market mushroom. In Italy it goes either by the French name champignon, or its Italian equivalent, prataiolo, both words meaning “of the field.” It is claimed that size does not affect taste, but I find the texture of the small, young mushroom called “button” to be distinctly superior to that of the more mature, larger examples.
Cremini This light- to dark-brown mushroom was the one cultivated variety available long before the white mushroom was developed. It has more depth of flavor than the white, but it is also more expensive. If cost is not a consideration, it can be used with success in any recipe that calls for white button mushrooms.
Shiitake The stems of this brown Japanese variety are too tough to use, but the caps give marvelous results when cooked by the method applied in Italy to fresh porcini.
How to buy and store Look for firmness as an indication of freshness, and avoid flabbiness, which is a signal of staleness. When buying white button or cremini mushrooms, choose those with smooth, closed caps, whereas the caps of shiitake are always open. Do not store mushrooms in plastic, which accelerates their absorption of moisture and deterioration, but in paper bags. If very fresh, they will stay in good condition in a refrigerator or a in a cold room in winter for 2 or 3 days.
Sautéed Mushrooms with Olive Oil, Garlic, and Parsley: Two Methods
THE CLASSIC flavor base for mushrooms in Italy is olive oil, garlic, and parsley. When mushrooms, or other vegetables, are sliced thin and cooked on such a base, they are known as trifolati, prepared in the manner of truffles.
The two methods that follow here both rest on the same traditional found
ation of flavor, but differ in their objectives and results. The first has a more conservative approach, aiming at preserving firmness and texture. The second version is more radical, mixing white mushrooms with dried porcini, and cooking them slowly, as one would fresh wild boletus, bestowing on standard market mushrooms the musky aroma and the silky softness of porcini.
Method 1
For 6 servings
1½ pounds fresh, firm, white button OR cremini mushrooms
1½ teaspoons garlic chopped very fine
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
3 tablespoons parsley chopped very fine
1. Slice off and discard a thin disk from the butt end of the mushrooms’ stem without detaching the stem from the cap. Wash the mushrooms rapidly in cold running water, taking care not to let them soak. Pat gently, but thoroughly dry with a soft cloth towel. Cut them lengthwise into slices ¼ inch thick keeping stems and caps together.
2. Choose a saute pan that can subsequently accommodate the mushrooms without crowding them, put in the garlic and olive oil, and turn on the heat to medium high. Cook and stir the garlic until it becomes colored a pale gold, then add all the mushrooms and turn up the heat to high.
3. When the mushrooms have soaked up all the oil, add salt and pepper, turn the heat down to low, and shake the pan to toss the mushrooms, or stir with a wooden spoon. As soon as the mushrooms shed their juices, which will happen very quickly, turn the heat up to high again and boil those juices away for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently.
Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking Page 56