4. Cook for 1 hour or more, until the tomatoes have shrunk to little more than half their original size. The skins and sides of the pan should be partly blackened, but not burnt. Transfer to a serving platter, using a slotted spoon or spatula to leave the cooked oil behind. Serve hot, lukewarm, or at room temperature.
Fried Tomatoes
THERE IS no vegetable that does not take well to frying, and among them none that can surpass tomatoes. The combination of outer crispness and inner moistness that you can achieve only through this fastest of all cooking methods attains ideal proportions in a perfectly fried tomato.
For 4 servings
2 to 3 fresh, ripe, very firm, round tomatoes
1 egg
Flour, spread on a plate
Unflavored bread crumbs, lightly toasted, spread on a plate
Vegetable oil
Salt
1. Wash the tomatoes in cold water, and cut them horizontally into slices about ½ inch thick. Discard the tops. Gently pick out the seeds without squeezing the slices.
2. Beat the egg lightly in a deep dish or small bowl.
3. Turn the tomato slices over in flour, dip them in egg, letting the excess flow back into the dish, then dredge them in bread crumbs, coating both sides.
4. Pour enough oil in a skillet to come 1 inch up its sides, and turn on the heat to high. When the oil is very hot, slip in as many breaded slices of tomato as will fit loosely. When a dark, golden crust forms on one side, turn them and do the other side. Transfer them with a slotted spoon or spatula to a cooling rack to drain or to a platter lined with paper towels. Repeat the procedure until all the tomatoes are done. Sprinkle with salt and serve while piping hot.
ZUCCHINI
In appearance, zucchini is the most placid of vegetables. It has not the sensual furrows and crevices of the bell pepper, the bosomy exuberance of a ripe tomato, the playful ruffles of leafy greens. Yet it possesses more ways of beguiling the palate than can be counted. Riffle through Italian recipe books and everywhere you find zucchini, in appetizers, in pasta, in soup, in risotto, in frittate, in stews, and in vegetable dishes prepared by all the methods known to cooks. Zucchini can be boiled, baked, fried, sautéed, stewed, grilled; it can be cut into sticks, rounds, flat long slices, julienne strips, dice; it can be grated, mashed, or hollowed and stuffed. It is no exaggeration to say that when you explore all the ways of cooking zucchini, you reach for and bring within your grasp most of the processes that make up Italian cooking.
How to buy Good zucchini is available most of the year, but it has the most flavor during its natural season, late spring and early summer. Choose zucchini from a basket or vegetable bin whose contents seem to be all of a size, which indicates they come from a single lot rather than a mixed one of varying age and freshness. In Italy, zucchini is sometimes brought to market with the blossoms attached. The blossom wilts rapidly and drops off, so when it is still on and looks bright it is proof of the freshness of the zucchini.
The color of fresh zucchini may range from light to dark. What matters is for the skin to be glossy and free of blemishes. The vegetable should feel very firm in the hand. If it is flabby and bends with pressure, it isn’t fresh.
Young, small zucchini are usually more desirable because of their compact flesh, small seeds, their tenderness and sweetness, but small does not mean the size of a finger. Young is one thing, undeveloped is another. Miniature zucchini, like other miniature vegetables, are undeveloped and taste of nothing.
How to clean The thin zucchini skin is easily penetrated by soil, which is hard to detect until you are eating. Although zucchini is occasionally fairly free of grit, the prudent course is to assume there is soil embedded in the skin and proceed to loosen it and remove it as described below.
• Soak in a large bowl or a basin filled with cold water for at least 20 minutes.
• Rinse the zucchini thoroughly under cold running water, rubbing briskly with your hands or a rough cloth to remove any grit still embedded in the skin.
• Trim away both ends and cut the zucchini as the recipe requires. When zucchini is to be boiled, omit this step, and leave the ends on.
Fried Zucchini with Flour and Water Batter
ITALIANS CALL THIS frying batter made of flour and water la pastella. Those who like a crust on their fried vegetables that is thin and deliciously brittle, that does not soak up oil like a sponge, and that never falls off, need look no further than pastella. It is perfect for zucchini, but try it with such other vegetables as asparagus and broccoli, or with onion rings, following the procedure given below.
For 4 to 6 servings
1 pound fresh zucchini
⅔ cup flour
Vegetable oil
Salt
1. Soak and clean the zucchini as directed above, trim away the ends, and cut it lengthwise into slices about ⅛ inch thick.
2. Put 1 cup water in a soup plate and gradually add the flour, shaking it through a strainer and, with a fork, constantly beating the mixture that forms. When all the flour has been mixed with water, the batter should have the consistency of sour cream. If it is thinner add a little more flour; if it is thicker, a little more water.
3. Pour enough oil into a skillet to come ¾ inch up its sides, and turn on the heat to high. When the oil is quite hot, drop the zucchini slices, a few at a time, into the batter. Slip a fork under the zucchini, one slice at a time, lift it, and slide it into the pan. The oil should be hot enough to sizzle on contact with the zucchini. Do not put in any more of them at one time than will fit loosely.
4. Cook until a fine golden crust forms on one side, then turn the slices over and do the other side. Transfer them with a slotted spoon or spatula to a cooling rack to drain or to a platter lined with paper towels. Repeat the procedure until you have fried all the zucchini. Sprinkle with salt and serve while piping hot.
Fried Zucchini in Vinegar and Garlic
For 4 to 6 servings
1 pound fresh zucchini
Salt
2 garlic cloves
Vegetable oil
Flour
2 to 3 tablespoons good wine vinegar
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
1. Soak and clean the zucchini, trimming away both ends, and cut it into sticks ¼ inch thick. Sprinkle these with salt, and stand them inside a pasta colander, letting them steep for 30 minutes or more. Place the colander over a plate to collect the drippings. When the zucchini sticks have shed a substantial amount of liquid, take them out of the colander and pat them thoroughly dry with cloth or paper towels.
2. Mash the garlic cloves lightly with a knife handle, just enough to split the skin, which you will pull off and discard. Set the garlic aside for later.
3. Pour enough oil into a skillet to come ¼ inch up its sides, and turn on the heat to high. When the oil is quite hot, put the zucchini sticks, a few at a time, into a strainer, pour some flour over them, shake off all excess flour, and slip them into the pan. The oil should be hot enough to sizzle on contact with the sticks. Do not put in any more of them at one time than will fit loosely.
4. Watch the zucchini sticks and turn them over when they become brown on one side. When they are brown all over, transfer them with a slotted spoon or spatula to a deep dish, and drizzle them with some of the vinegar. You will hear them crackle. Fry any remaining zucchini in the same manner and repeat the procedure with the vinegar.
5. When all the zucchini sticks are done, bury the garlic in their midst, sprinkle with pepper, toss 2 or 3 times, and set aside to cool down to room temperature before serving.
Note Adjust the vinegar and garlic to suit your taste. The longer you leave the garlic in, the more pervasive will be its aroma. I prefer to take it out after it has steeped with the zucchini for no more than 10 minutes.
Sautéed Zucchini Rounds with Onions
For 6 servings
1½ pounds fresh zucchini
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup onion sl
iced very thin
Salt
1. Soak and clean the zucchini, trimming away both ends, and slice into the thinnest possible rounds.
2. Put the butter and onion in a sauté pan, turn the heat on to medium, and without ever covering the pan, cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion becomes colored a rich golden brown.
3. Add the zucchini rounds, several pinches of salt, turn them over completely to coat well, and turn the heat up to high. Stir frequently. The zucchini will be cooked when the rounds become tender, and turn a light brown at the edges. The time will vary widely, from 5 minutes to 15 or more, depending on the youth and freshness of the vegetable. Taste and correct for salt. Transfer the contents of the pan to a warm platter and serve promptly.
Ahead-of-time note It is preferable to serve these zucchini the moment they are done, but if it is imperative that the dish be prepared earlier, you can cook it completely a few hours in advance and reheat it gently before serving it that same day. Do not refrigerate.
Sautéed Zucchini Rounds with Oregano
For 6 servings
1½ pounds fresh zucchini
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon garlic chopped rather coarse
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
Oregano, ½ teaspoon if fresh, ¼ teaspoon if dried
1. Soak and clean the zucchini, trimming away both ends, and slice into the thinnest possible rounds.
2. Choose a saute pan that can subsequently accommodate all the zucchini without stacking them much more than 1 inch high. Put in the oil and garlic, and turn on the heat to medium. Cook and stir the garlic until it becomes colored a pale gold, then put in the zucchini, together with salt, pepper, and the oregano. Toss thoroughly to coat well, turn the heat up to medium high, and cook until the zucchini rounds are tender, but slightly firm to the bite. Turn them from time to time as they cook. When done, spoon off some, but not all the oil, then transfer the entire contents of the pan to a warm platter and serve at once.
Ahead-of-time note The note at the foot of the preceding recipe applies here as well.
Zucchini Gratin with Tomato and Marjoram
For 6 servings
1½ pounds fresh zucchini
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon chopped garlic
½ cup chopped onion
1 cup canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, cut up, with their juice
Marjoram, ½ teaspoon if fresh, ¼ teaspoon if dried
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
An oven-to-table baking dish
3 tablespoons freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1. Soak and clean the zucchini, trimming away both ends, and slice them into very thin disks.
2. Preheat oven to 400°.
3. Put half the oil and all the garlic in a saute pan, turn the heat on to medium high, and cook the garlic, stirring, until it begins to be barely colored. Put in the zucchini rounds. Turn them over completely once or twice to coat well, and cook until they are limp, stirring occasionally. Take off heat.
4. Put the onion and remaining oil in a small saucepan, and turn on the heat to medium. Cook and stir the onion until it becomes translucent, then put in the tomatoes with their juice and the marjoram. Turn the tomatoes over completely once or twice to coat well, and cook at a steady, but gentle simmer until the oil floats free of the tomatoes, about 20 minutes. Take off heat, and swirl in the parsley, salt, and several grindings of pepper.
5. Smear the bottom of the baking dish with a little of the oil in the saucepan. Spread half the zucchini in a level layer on the bottom of the dish, cover with half the tomato sauce from the saucepan, and sprinkle over it 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan. Make another layer with the remaining zucchini, topping it with the rest of the sauce and the last 2 tablespoons of Parmesan.
6. Place the dish on the uppermost rack of the preheated oven, and bake for 15 minutes or more, until the cheese melts, and the top becomes colored rather brown. After taking the dish out of the oven, allow it to settle for about 10 minutes before bringing it to the table.
Ahead-of-time note You can finish baking the zucchini several hours in advance the same day you are going to serve it. Do not refrigerate. Reheat the dish in the oven.
Zucchini with Tomato and Basil
For 6 servings
1½ pounds fresh zucchini
½ cup onion sliced thin
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1½ teaspoons garlic chopped coarse
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
⅔ cup canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, chopped coarse, with their juice
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
6 or more fresh basil leaves
1. Soak and clean the zucchini, trimming away both ends, and cut them into disks a little less than ½ inch thick.
2. Preheat oven to 350°.
3. Choose a flameproof oven-to-table pan, preferably enameled cast-iron ware, put in the onion and oil, and turn on the heat to medium. Cook and stir the onion until it becomes colored a light gold, then add the garlic. When the garlic becomes colored a very pale gold, add the parsley, stirring it quickly once or twice, then put in the tomatoes with their juice. Cook at a steady, gentle simmer until the oil floats free of the tomatoes, about 20 minutes.
4. Add the sliced zucchini, salt, and pepper, and turn the zucchini over once or twice to coat well. Cook for 5 minutes on top of the stove, then transfer the pan to the uppermost rack of the preheated oven. Cook until the liquid shed by the zucchini dries out, and the zucchini rounds are tender.
5. Take the pan out of the oven. Wash the basil in cold water, tear the leaves into one or two pieces by hand, distribute them over the zucchini, and bring to the table.
Ahead-of-time note The dish may be completed up to this point several hours in advance on the day you are going to serve it. Do not refrigerate. Reheat in a hot oven before proceeding with the next step.
Baked Zucchini Stuffed with Ham and Cheese
For 6 servings or more if served as an appetizer
8 to 10 fresh zucchini
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon onion chopped fine
¼ pound boiled unsmoked ham, chopped fine
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
Béchamel Sauce, prepared as directed, using 1 cup milk, 2 tablespoons butter, 1½ tablespoons flour, and ⅛ teaspoon salt
¼ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
Whole nutmeg
1 egg
An oven-to-table baking dish
Butter for smearing and dotting the baking dish
Unflavored bread crumbs, lightly toasted
1. Soak and clean the zucchini as directed, but do not cut off the ends.
2. Bring 3 to 4 quarts of water to a boil, put in the zucchini, and cook until partly tender, still somewhat resistant when prodded with a fork. Drain, and as soon as they are cool enough for you to handle, cut off both ends, cut each zucchini into 2 shorter pieces, then cut each piece lengthwise in half. Using a teaspoon, gently scoop out the zucchini flesh, taking care not to break the skin. Discard half the scooped out flesh, and coarsely chop the other half. Set both the chopped flesh and the hollowed zucchini aside.
3. Preheat oven to 400°.
4. Put the butter, oil, and onion in a skillet, turn on the heat to medium, and sauté the onion just until it becomes translucent. Add the chopped ham, and cook it for about 1 minute, stirring once or twice. Add the chopped zucchini flesh, turning it to coat it well, and turn the heat up to high. Cook, stirring from time to time, until the zucchini becomes colored a rich gold and acquires a creamy consistency. Add salt and pepper, stir quickly once or twice, then transfer the contents of the skillet to a small bowl, using a slotted spoon
or spatula.
5. Prepare the béchamel, cooking it long enough to make it rather thick. Pour the béchamel into the bowl with the sautéed zucchini flesh, mix, then add the grated Parmesan, a tiny grating of nutmeg—about ⅛ teaspoon—and the egg, and mix quickly until you obtain a uniform blend of all the ingredients.
6. Smear the bottom of the baking dish with butter. Place the hollowed-out zucchini in the dish, skin side facing down. Fill each one with the béchamel and zucchini flesh mixture, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and dot with butter.
7. Place the dish on the uppermost rack of the preheated oven, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until a light golden crust forms on top. After taking the dish out of the oven, allow it to settle for 5 to 10 minutes before bringing it to the table.
Ahead-of-time note You may complete the dish up to this point several hours in advance on the same day you are going to serve it. Do not refrigerate.
Hollowed Zucchini Stuffed with Beef, Ham, and Parmesan Cheese
For 6 servings
10 fresh zucchini, about 1¼ to 1½ inches in diameter
3 cups onion sliced thin
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 tablespoons tomato paste, diluted with 1 cup lukewarm water
3 tablespoons milk or more
⅔ slice good, firm white bread, crust trimmed away
½ pound ground beef, preferably chuck
1 egg
3 tablespoons freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1 tablespoon chopped prosciutto OR boiled unsmoked ham
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking Page 59