Craft Coffee
Page 12
CATIMOR
A cross between Timor and caturra, catimor might be one of the most popular hybrids among craft coffee professionals. It was developed in Portugal in the late 1950s and is now a popular plant in Central America. It’s very productive and is resistant to coffee leaf rust and coffee berry disease. Catimor has plenty of arabica influence, but its robusta genes still tend to rear their dull, overly bitter heads if given the chance. However, in the right hands, catimor can make a decent cup, and you may see it listed on bags of craft coffee. There are several varieties of catimor, including Costa Rica 95, lempira, and catisic.
CASTILLO
I need to tell you a story for this one. In the 1960s, the Colombian government’s National Coffee Research Center (Cenicafé) started experimenting with different catimor varieties to produce a high-quality, high-yield, disease-resistant plant. In the early 1980s, after several rounds of breeding, Cenicafé released a line called Colombia, promoting its high cup quality and disease resistance. When coffee leaf rust was discovered in Colombian coffee fields (which grew primarily caturra), this new variety was primed to take over. However, Cenicafé never stopped developing coffee plants, and in 2005, it released a better-tasting improvement on Colombia: castillo. Today, most of Colombia’s coffee fields have been replaced with castillo. There has been a bit of drama about castillo in the coffee world, with both producers and graders being suspicious of its quality, especially compared with caturra. However, castillo’s cupping scores have been comparable to caturra, and baristas have been known to use castillo beans in industry competitions.
RUIRU 11
This varietal has a story similar to that of castillo, except it was the Kenyan government that funded the catimor research (Ruiru 11 is named after the research station where it was developed). In this case, the researchers experimented with several arabica plants, including SL28, to develop a high-quality cup that retained the disease-resistance of the catimor plant. Despite their efforts, experts tend to feel that Ruiru 11 will never match the high quality of SL28. The Kenyan government never gave up, though, and recently, an improved form of Ruiru 11 called Batian matured and hit the market. Because Batian is genetically closer to SL28 and SL34 than Ruiru 11 is, it seems to have a better cup quality. You may see Ruiru 11 and/or Batian, along with SL28 and SL34, on bags of single-origin Kenyan coffee.
Heirloom Varietals
Some arabica coffees don’t fit neatly on the family tree under typica or bourbon. These are the plants that continued to evolve on their own in Ethiopia and Sudan, separately from the plants brought to Yemen that turned into typica and bourbon.
ETHIOPIAN HEIRLOOMS
There are literally thousands of different Ethiopian heirlooms, each a natural descendant of wild coffee plants. Many villages have their own varietal, which they have cultivated to work with the growing conditions of their location. These varietals are often called heirlooms.
GESHA/GEISHA
Gesha (often spelled “geisha”) is the breakout star of the aforementioned heirlooms. It was transported from the small town of Gesha, Ethiopia, to Costa Rica. Gesha grows well only in particular microclimates with high elevations (one of which is the area around Boquete, Panama), making it a rather rare bean. It is highly prized in the industry for its superior quality and intense flavors, which can have notes of bergamot, berry, citrus blossom, and honey. Because exceptional geshas can command high prices, producers in Central and South America have started cultivating it more often in recent years.
ORIGIN
High-quality coffee grows well only in a certain part of the world: at high elevations in countries that generally fall between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn—an area otherwise known as the Bean Belt. More than 50 countries (commonly referred to as origins) grow coffee, although not all of them export specialty coffee to the United States. A couple of countries, like Vietnam, grow mostly robusta, which isn’t relevant for our purposes. A few others focus on low-quality arabica beans destined to become instant coffee and other forms of commercial coffee. And some countries, like Thailand and China, are just starting their specialty coffee programs and don’t yet produce enough high-quality product for us to see it commonly in the United States.
Why Does Most Good Coffee Come from Volcanic Soil?
You’ll notice that many of the highest-quality coffee beans are grown near volcanoes. It’s not just a coffee thing—high-quality grapes, wheat, tea, and other agricultural products are also known to thrive in volcanic soil. Why? For one thing, volcanic soil contains what is perhaps the widest range of minerals of any soil. Scientists believe volcanic soil contains both major and minor minerals as well as trace minerals and rare earth elements, like nitrogen, calcium, zinc, phosphorus, potassium, and boron. All of these enhance soil biology, which plants need to grow. The soil near an active volcano is also replenished naturally during eruptions. As with all farming, growing coffee plants removes minerals from the soil. If proper techniques (or fertilizer) aren’t used to maintain healthy levels of nutrients, the soil becomes dead and unproductive. Volcanic eruptions keep the soil nearby fresh and fertile. If not near an active volcano, most coffee is grown in mountainous regions. Mountains were created by tectonic activity, which also tends to bring vital coffee nutrients to the Earth’s crust.
However, the highest-quality coffee in the world requires more than the right coordinates on a map. Everything about the coffee’s environmental growing conditions (called terroir in the industry) can affect its flavor. Coffee thrives best in mineral-rich soil. It also prefers warm, tropical climates with plenty of rain. The right amount of shade and a high elevation encourage slow bean growth, which gives the bean more time to develop nutrients that result in desirable flavors. Although there are exceptions, some of the highest-quality coffee is grown in the shade and/or at high elevations.
In addition to terroir, high-quality coffee also needs the care and attention of skilled coffee producers. Some countries, like Colombia and Kenya, have governments and infrastructure that greatly support their coffee producers. Meanwhile, producers in some other countries struggle to gather the resources necessary for high-quality coffee production for various reasons: economic instability, political unrest, a lack of best-practices education, or a lack of necessary infrastructure. As you’ll see, a few countries are newcomers to the specialty market, and the movement toward growing high-quality coffee is being bolstered by individual producer entrepreneurs, coffee importers, and/or specialty roasters.
Craft coffee roasters are particularly interested in how origin influences taste, which is why they commonly sell “single origin” coffee instead of or in addition to blends, which contain beans from multiple origins. Because flavor is influenced by so many factors, it can be difficult to make generalizations about what all coffee from a particular origin tastes like. But to give you a basic idea of where coffee grows and how that influences coffee characteristics, this section covers 23 origins that produce the specialty beans most commonly used by US roasters.
Most countries have multiple growing regions, which I outline in the following pages. However, it’s important to note that very few countries have explicitly designated the names of their growing regions, and the names that importers and roasters use to describe them on packaging are largely unstandardized. In fact, they sometimes don’t align with geographical or geopolitical regions. The names of cities, for example, are commonly used to describe “growing regions,” even if the beans are grown in areas surrounding the city. I have tried to use the terms that seem to be the most common.
In addition to a brief description of each country’s growing regions and coffee characteristics, I also added a snapshot of each origin that I thought would be useful to home brewers who want to know more about where their coffee comes from. I included a rough estimate of each country’s elevation (how many meters above sea level, or masl, it is) and the type of processing (see page 142) that is common to the origin, as both are l
inked closely to flavor. I also included the number of 60-kilogram bags the country exported in the 2014–15 growing season to give you a sense of its export market share. Note that these export numbers, gathered from International Coffee Organization data, are not necessarily the same as production numbers, as there are many reasons, like domestic consumption, why countries keep some of their coffee within their own borders. For Hawai’i, I listed the production number calculated from US Department of Agriculture data, as current export and domestic consumption numbers proved difficult to verify. These are meant to give you a rough idea of the particulars, but they are not, of course, inclusive of all variations and subtleties. One of the great things about coffee is there is always more to learn about and explore!
THE BEAN BELT
Arabica coffee typically grows best at higher elevations between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn, aka the Bean Belt. Although many more countries grow coffee, these 23 origins are among those you are most likely to see on bags of craft coffee.
North America
HAWAI’I
100 to 1,000 masl | 45,360 bags | mostly washed
Hawai’i is the only place in the United States that is able to produce high-quality coffee (although I’ve read that commercial growers are cropping up in California and Georgia). Hawai’i has a handful of growing regions—most of which have mineral-packed, volcanic soil—but the Kona region on the Big Island generally overshadows the rest in the public eye, as it is said to produce some of the world’s finest coffee: silky, floral, and with a remarkable balance of sweetness and acidity. However, the Kona growing region is only about 2,000 acres, which means there is never that much available. Kona coffee is incredibly expensive (and some say overrated), and you’re unlikely to see it in a pure form outside of a blend. Aside from Kona, many other regions on the Big Island have ideal yet distinct microclimates. Puna, where most coffee grows in or above lava flows, is quite new to the scene but is capable of producing coffee with a lot of acidity and very diverse flavors. Ka‘ū, which has been gaining accolades in recent years, is said to be reminiscent of Central American coffees. Hāmākua, home to limited production on very fertile farms, is known for coffee with low acidity and a rich, full body. Coffee is also produced on the islands of Kaua‘i, Maui, and Moloka‘i.
MEXICO
800 to 1,700 masl | 2,458,000 bags| mostly washed, some natural
Mexico cultivates coffee on about 760,000 hectares across 12 different states. A hectare is equal to about 2.47 acres, so that’s roughly 1.88 million acres. The soil in these states tends to be a bit acidic, which contributes to the coffee’s character. Most coffee farms in Mexico are small (less than 25 hectares) and organized into cooperatives that specialize in organic coffee. The largest producing region is Chiapas, which shares a mountain range with one of Guatemala’s best growing regions and accounts for about a third of Mexico’s total production. Other well-established regions include Veracruz, Puebla, and Oaxaca, which, along with Chiapas, account for about 95 percent of all production. You might also see coffee from Guerrero. In the past, Mexican coffee was considered to be low-grown and low-quality, and certain to become filler, but the many small producers growing high-elevation, high-quality coffee in recent years have turned that image around. In the United States, many roasters buy Mexican beans based on the name of respected beneficios (coffee processing facilities) or fincas (farms). These coffees have the potential to show off interesting mixes of acidity and sweetness, notes of toffee and chocolate, lighter bodies, and creamy textures.
Central America
COSTA RICA
600 to 2,000 masl | 1,133,000 bags | mostly washed
Costa Rican coffee is generally grown and processed with extreme care, which makes it a favorite here in the United States (about half of all Costa Rican coffee makes its way to the US specialty market). Costa Rica’s arguably most famous region, Tarrazú, produces nearly a third of the country’s total coffee output and uses highly advanced production techniques, which result in extremely clean coffees at scale. Most coffee in Tarrazú, which is surrounded by the peaks of the Cordillera de Talamanca mountain range, is grown at 1,000 to 1,800 meters above sea level. Other regions include West Valley (a quarter of production), Central Valley (where three different volcanoes influence the soil), Brunca, Tres Ríos, and Orosí. The regions of Turrialba and Guanacaste also produce coffee, but suboptimal weather and lower elevations, respectively, make truly stellar coffees a bit harder to come by there. While all of Costa Rica’s regions produce coffee with various distinct characteristics, the country’s coffees as a whole are widely considered to be the gold standard for Central American coffee: full of nuanced and delicate aromatics, clean, bright, and citrusy, with increased notes of sweetness in higher-grown beans. Small and medium-sized farms that have been producing coffee for hundreds of years have established a reputation for consistent quality among buyers. In recent years, new small estates have been gaining attention, as the farmers there use their own micromills to control all aspects of production and quality. These micromills not only make Costa Rican coffee more traceable, they also make it easier to compare different Costa Rican coffees and taste geographical differences in each cup.
EL SALVADOR
500 to 1,800 masl | 595,000 bags | mostly washed
Although its coffee is not generally considered to be in the same league as Costa Rica’s and Guatemala’s, El Salvador’s volcanic mountain ranges, ideal weather conditions, and deep-rooted coffee tradition make for prime high-quality coffee production. To the northwest, the Alotepec-Metapán growing region, although tiny, produces some of the country’s most prized coffees. To the west, Apaneca-Ilamatepec is the largest growing region and is also known for its esteemed beans. From there, traveling eastward, you’ll find the regions of El Bálsamo-Quetzaltepec, Cacahuatique, Tecapa-Chinameca, and Chinchontepec. Most (some estimates are as high as 80 percent) of the coffee grown in El Salvador is bourbon (see page 113), which many producers feel is the distinguishing mark of El Salvadoran coffee. In fact, much of it comes from heirloom bourbon trees, which is unique, as most Central American producers have replaced their heirloom varietals with higher-yielding (and some say less yummy) varietals over the years. The coffee, which has a reputation for being very consistent and reliable among professionals, is capable of producing cups that are distinctly sweet and creamy, with flavors of toffee and cocoa. Citrus and fruit notes, like red apple, make their mark in higher-grown beans. While the best Central American coffees often wow people with their powerful, distinct acidity, El Salvadoran coffees tend to be subtler in that arena. If you don’t care for acid-forward craft coffees, an El Salvador coffee might be a good option for you. Additionally, the country’s producers have been experimenting with varietals and processing lately, so there just may be a surprising bag of El Salvadoran coffee out there waiting to be tasted.
GUATEMALA
1,200 to 1,900 masl | 2,925,000 bags | mostly washed
Coffee from the highlands of Guatemala is considered to be among the finest coffees in the world, the kind that can knock you over the head with its bold acidity and body. One of the country’s most famous regions, Antigua, is nestled among three volcanoes, which provide coffee’s favorite mineral-rich soil. Antigua often produces cups with dark, earthy notes like spice, flowers, and smoke. Coffees from Fraijanes and Atitlán, both also rich in volcanic soil, are similarly prized. In the southeast corner of the country, Huehuetenango’s Caribbean-facing slopes produce distinctly fruit-forward coffees, which may be due in part to how producers dry the coffee during production. Other growing regions include San Marcos with its slopes facing the Pacific, Nuevo Oriente near the Honduran border, and Cobán, which is sandwiched between Antigua and Atitlán. Guatemalan coffees that are sold to roasters under regional names must meet the corresponding flavor guidelines set forth by the Asociación Nacional del Café, the national coffee authority that has been supporting farmers since 1960. Guatemalan c
offee has seen an uptick in quality in recent years, owing to Guatemalan producers’ high level of participation in the specialty coffee market.
HONDURAS
1,300 to 1,800 masl | 5,020,000 bags | mostly washed
The Honduran coffee program, which was once substantial in the commercial market, was rocked by destruction from Hurricane Mitch and subsequent storms in the late 1990s. It has also traditionally lacked the infrastructure of some of its South American neighbors, so even though the country has prime climate, elevation, and soil quality, it has struggled to keep up with countries like Guatemala and Colombia. However, in the past 10 years, more and more small holders and exporters have entered the specialty coffee market. In 2016, more than 95 small producers collectively cultivated 94 percent of the country’s coffee, and today, it is the largest producer and exporter of coffee in Central America. Typical Honduran coffees are mild and medium bodied, and the best tend to be highly complex and juicy. Sometimes Honduran coffee gets knocked for its brief shelf life, which may be related to how rainy the country can be, as that makes drying the coffee difficult. Out of Honduras’s 18 departments, 15 grow coffee, although the highest-quality coffee is typically grown in the Marcala region in the southwestern part of the country. Over the past few years, demand for Honduran specialty coffee has increased, and both producers and the Instituto Hondureño del Café have responded in kind—the former by dedicating more land to specialty crops, and the latter by mapping and naming six growing regions based on the high-elevation, shade-grown coffee found in each: Copán, Opalaca, Montecillos (which is marketed under Marcala), Comayagua, Agalta, and El Paraiso. Each region’s coffee has defining flavor characteristics, ranging from chocolate to tropical fruit to citrus.