The Seine

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The Seine Page 34

by Elaine Sciolino


  Île de France (fireboat), 328, 337

  Île de la Cité, 13, 14, 18, 42, 66, 74, 78, 89, 92, 93, 94, 126, 138, 139, 154, 172, 182, 192, 236, 296

  in daguerreotypes, 191

  painting by Matisse of, 251

  Paris centered around, map from 1611, 234

  Pont Neuf and enlarged surface of, 84

  Pont Neuf built across, 83

  as power center on the Seine, 79

  size and history of, 238–39

  Île de la Jatte:

  Fish Festival on the Seine, 118

  A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte set on, 240–41 Île de la Loge, 238

  Île de Puteaux, 238

  Île de Quatre Ages, 238

  Île des Cygnes, 243, 244

  Île des Impressionistes, 108

  Île des Ravageurs, animal cemetery on, 238

  Île du Courant, 238

  Île du Patriarche, joined to Île de la Cité, by Pont Neuf, 84

  Île du Platais, 190, 191, 241

  Île Lacroix, 260, 265

  Île Launy, 238

  Île Louviers, 238, 243

  Île Notre-Dame, 239

  Île Olive, 243

  Île Paradis, 238

  Île Robinson, 238

  Île Saint-Denis, 243

  as site for Paris Summer Olympic Village (2024), 244

  Île Saint-Etienne, 67, 238

  Île Saint-Germain, 244

  Île Saint-Louis, 12, 19, 78, 90, 100, 125, 136, 142, 176, 182, 224, 234, 236, 238, 243

  creation of, 239

  history of, 239–40

  rue des Deux Ponts, 14

  Îles d’Harcourt, 238

  Île Seguin:

  La Seine Musicale on, 178, 181, 235

  rich history of, 236

  Île Saint-Etienne, 67

  Île Surgès, 238

  Il Tabarro (The Cloak) (Puccini), 184–86

  Impression, soleil levant (Monet), 250

  Impressionism:

  birth of, 249, 250

  Kodak cameras and, 192

  works painted on Île de la Jatte, 240–41

  Impressionists, 108, 248–53, 255, 283, 294, 300, 321. see also individual artists

  Inception (film), 175

  infection control, River Brigade and, 216

  Inquest on Bouvet (Simenon), 121

  INRAP. see Institute National de Recherches Archéologiques Préventives (INRAP)

  In Search of Lost Time (Proust), 16, 264

  Institut de France, 14, 15, 93, 122

  Institute National de Recherches Archéologiques Préventives (INRAP), 79

  Insula, 237

  International Olympic Committee, 98

  Intouchables, The (film), 175

  Irma la Douce (film), 176

  Islamic State terrorist attack (2015), Fluctuat nec mergitur as slogan of resistance in wake of, 80

  island-hopping, on the Seine, 235, 237–44. see also individual islands

  Is Paris Burning? (Collins and Lapierre), 290

  Is Paris Burning? (film), 290

  Italian Historical Society of America, 267

  Ivens, Joris, 174

  Ivry-sur-Seine, 67

  Jako (two-seater row boat), 113

  Jandard, Alexis, 98

  Janin, Jules, 200

  Jean, Philippe, 281, 282, 283

  Jefferson, Thomas, 201

  Jestaz, Juliette, 179, 180

  Jeunet, Jean-Pierre, 254

  Joan of Arc, 46, 260–62, 261, 263, 265, 308, 321, 333

  Joan of Arc Church, 262

  Johnson, Don, 213

  Joinville-le-Pont, 337

  Jongkind, Johan, 249

  Jouffroy, François, 31

  journalism, contemporary politics and view of, 321–22

  Jousse, François, 124–27

  jousting tournaments, 109

  Joyce, James, 6, 132

  Joyen-Conseil, Marie-Hélène, 256, 257

  “Joy of Life” (SS Joie de Vivre), cruise on the Seine, 317–25, 322

  Jules and Jim (film), 228

  Julian the Apostate:

  emperor of Rome, 71, 79

  on his love for Lutetia, 78

  Julie, cruise mate aboard SS Joie de Vivre, 322–23, 324, 325

  Juliobona, 295, 296

  Julius Caesar, 25, 73, 77, 153

  Jundi, Wang, 192

  Kapoor, Anish, 124

  kayak flotilla, 2024 Summer Olympics campaign and, 98, 99

  Keaton, Diane, 122, 123

  Kelly, Ellsworth, 249

  Kelly, Gene, 167, 168

  Kelly, Grace, 132

  Kering, 237

  Khondji, Darius, light of the Seine captured by, 170–73

  photograph of the Seine taken by, 2 Kingston Trio, 183

  Kirby, Vanessa, 169

  Kitt, Eartha, 183

  Klapisch, Cédric, 90, 167

  Kline, Kevin, 176

  Kodak cameras, 192

  Krebs, Sophie, 94, 95

  La Bohème (Puccini), 186

  Labro, Philippe:

  on Rive droite, rive gauche, 13

  on the Seine, 12–13

  La Champagne Pouilleuse, poverty in, 56

  Laclos, Eric de, 33

  La Dauphine:

  miniature model of, 258, 267

  Verrazzano explores New World in, 266

  Lady Mary (freighter), 276

  Lagerfeld, Karl, 206, 207, 324

  La Grenouillère (“The Froggery”), 107, 113–14, 134–35

  “Trouville-sur-Seine,” 134

  “La Grenouillère” (Poulenc), 1939 arrangement of, 187

  La Houppelande (Gold), 184

  La La Land (film), 97, 167, 168

  La Maison Fournaise:

  founder of, 110

  Impressionists at, 108

  Luncheon of the Boating Party painted at, 246, 253, 254

  Renoir’s love of, 135, 254

  La Marseillaise, 20, 30, 98

  lampposts:

  on Pont Alexandre III, 126

  during 2016 flood, 147

  L’an 2440 (Mercier), 200

  Lang, Kirsty, 199

  Lapierre, Dominique, 290

  La queste del Saint Graal (Chrétien de Troyes), 62

  L’A rcadie (Bernardin de Saint-Pierre), 41, 46–48

  Lartigue, Jacques, 194

  La Salle, Robert de, 268–69

  “La Seine” (song), 3, 9, 133, 179, 180, 182, 183

  La Seine a rencontré Paris (film), 174–75

  La Seine à Vélo (The Seine by Bike), 311

  La Seine et ses bords (Nodier), 48–49

  La Seine: Mémoire d’un fleuve, 116

  La Seine Musicale, 181, 237

  night-time image of, 178

  opening of, 235

  L’ Assommoir (Zola), 190

  L’ Atalante (film), 153, 160

  L’Atelier Lorenzi, masks of L’Inconnue de la Seine at, 225–26

  L’ Atlantique (ocean liner), 174

  Laurencin, Marie, 182

  La vie d’un fleuve (documentary film), 174

  law enforcement. see Brigade Fluviale (river police) lead, water pollution and, 104

  Le Bing: Song Hits of Paris, 183

  Le Blond-Zola, Martine, 241

  Le Cap de la Héve, 48

  Le Crayon (Rouen), 255

  Lefebvre, Frédéric, 298, 304

  Le Figaro, 93, 169

  Left Bank of the Seine in Paris, 5, 13, 14, 15, 76, 78, 81, 89, 90, 94, 122, 139, 169, 195, 203, 236, 239, 240, 243, 255, 312, 323, 335

  Pont Neuf and, 83

  reinvention initiatives and, 310

  see also Right Bank of the Seine; Seine, the

  Le Havre, 20, 24, 48, 155, 164, 249, 275, 276, 285, 295, 304

  Communist mayors of, 302

  driving to Honfleur from, 297–98

  end of the Seine and, 24, 293

  five hundredth anniversary celebration in, 292, 298, 302–3

  as France
’s most important seaport, 293

  leveled by Allied bombings, 294

  liberation of, 301

  Monet in, 250, 253, 300

  modern sculpture on beach in, 292

  nickname for, 294

  Reinvent the Seine competition sponsored by, 45, 46, 299, 307

  the Seine and southern flank of, 299

  site chosen for, 301

  Lelouch, Claude, 175, 176, 324

  Lemmon, Jack, 176

  Lemonnier, Luc, 299, 300

  Le nouveau Paris (Mercier), 203

  Le Parisien, 138

  Le petit-pont (Meryon), 233

  Lépine, Louis, 214

  “Le Pont Mirabeau” (Apollinaire), 93, 182, 224

  Le Pont-Neuf, la nuit (Marquet), 93–94

  Leroy, Louis, 250

  Les Andelys, 284, 301

  Lesage, Alain-René, 19

  Le Savoyard, 187

  Les Bains des Docks, Le Havre, 303

  Les Berges, 310

  “Les Feux de Paris” (Aragon), 182

  Lesgards, Annie, 108, 113

  Les Misérables (Hugo), suicide of Javert in, 222, 230–31

  Les Ponts de Paris, 207

  Les rendez-vous de Paris (film), 170

  “Les Ricochets” (song), 180

  Les très riches heures du Duc de Berry, 248

  L’été à Paris (Janin), 199–200

  Le Volcan, Le Havre, 303

  Le voyage en France (Duteurtre), 303–4

  Léry-Poses, 110

  Life magazine, 190

  lifesaving personnel, River Brigade and, 211

  lighting:

  Paris and spending on, 122

  Paris vs. Lyon schools of, 126

  lights, Seine at night shimmering with, 121

  Light II (floating house), 148

  Lillebonne, 295

  Gallo-Roman past of, 296

  vestiges of Gallo-Roman amphitheater in, 296–97

  L’Inconnue de la Seine (Walter), 226

  Lindbergh, Charles, on seeing the Seine, 11

  Live Stream, Nuit Blanche multimedia work, 124

  locks, 15, 114, 142, 144, 238, 253, 320, 337

  barges and transit through, 24, 117, 163, 174–75

  taming of le mascaret and, 272

  see also barges; canals

  Lods, Jean, 174

  Loire River, 19, 21, 59, 66, 159, 278

  Loiret River, 21

  Lonsdale, Michael, 290

  Louis VII, king of France, 66

  Louis IX (Saint Louis), 337

  Louis XIII, king of France, 100, 239, 333, 334

  Louis XIV, king of France, 67, 273, 334

  love of swans, 243

  Marly Machine built by, 114, 241–42, 242 marriage to Maria Theresa of Spain, 46, 85

  swimming in the Seine, 100

  Louis XV, king of France, 204, 236, 332

  Louis XVI, king of France, 17, 204, 333

  Louis XVIII, king of France, 85

  Louis-Philippe, king of France, 92, 295

  Louvre, the, 12, 13, 14, 15, 38, 87, 93, 95, 131, 147, 176, 187, 193, 196, 197, 231, 248, 290, 296

  flood of 2016 and, 141

  Flore Pavilion of, 122

  Love in the Afternoon (film), 173–74

  “Love Is Here to Stay” (Gershwin & Gershwin), 167

  lovers, the Seine and, 131–33, 136–39

  lovers’ locks:

  keys to, found in the Seine, 217

  Paris City Hall crackdown on, 12

  on the Pont des Arts and Pont Neuf, 88, 88–89

  Lumière brothers, panoramic technique used by, 170

  Luncheon of the Boating Party (Renoir), 108, 134–35, 187, 246, 253–55

  Lutetia (Lutèce), 74, 79, 153, 296

  Julian the Apostate’s love for, 71, 78

  the Nautes of, 76

  the Seine and the making of, 77

  luxury cruise liners, on the Seine, 317–25, 322

  Lyon school of lighting, structures along the Seine and, 126

  Macron, Emmanuel, 331

  Madame (rowboat), 111

  Madame Bovary (Flaubert), 265, 287

  Mallarmé, Stéphane, 59

  Man and a Woman, A (film), 324

  Mandela, Nelson, bridges named after, 67

  Manet, Édouard, 252

  manners and mannerisms, French, 4

  Man Ray, 225

  marais (swamp), 144

  Marais (Paris neighborhood), 57, 72, 136, 144

  Marcilly-sur-Seine, 24, 25, 63, 65

  Marianne, 46

  Maria Theresa of Spain, marriage to Louis XIV, 46, 85

  Marie, Christophe, 92

  Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis-Philippe, king of France, 295

  Marie-Antoinette, queen of France:

  imprisonment of, 311

  and Notre-Dame, 333

  Seine river travel enjoyed by, 66

  marinas, 110

  Marino, Laura, 98

  Maritime, Fluvial, and Harbor Museum, Rouen, 267–68

  Marly Machine, 114

  built by Louis XIV, 241–42

  remnants of, on island at Bougival, 242

  Marne, battle of, 67

  Marne River, 21, 34, 48, 67, 102, 187, 337

  Sequana myth and, 48

  Marne Valley, Champagne production in, 51, 52

  Marquet, Albert, 10, 93, 94, 95, 123, 300

  Marquis, Philippe, 71, 74–75

  Married Man, The (White), 240

  Marshall, E. G., 290

  Martens, Frédéric, 192

  Martin, Dean, 183

  Martin, Steve, 176

  “Martyrs of the Deportation” memorial, behind Notre-Dame, 239

  mascaret, le (tidal bore):

  appearing at Caudebec-en-Caux, 270, 271, 279

  taming of, 272, 278

  Masterpiece, The (Zola), 133

  Matisse, Henri, 10, 123, 251

  Maupassant, Guy de, 107, 111, 113, 134, 148, 241, 265, 304

  Mauriac, François, 202

  McCrea, Joel, 285

  McQuarrie, Christopher, 170

  Médan, Zola’s house and estate in, 190, 191, 241

  Medici, Catherine de’, 226

  Melun, 66, 67, 153

  Mercier, Louis-Sébastien, 83, 102, 200, 203

  Meryon, Charles, 233

  Miami Vice (television series), 213

  Midnight in Paris (film), 170, 171, 173

  Milon (seventh-century hermit), 283

  Ministry of Culture, 71

  Ministry of Health, 104

  Ministry of the Interior, 214

  Misopogon (Emperor Julian), 71, 78

  Missika, Jean-Louis, 307, 308

  Mission Impossible—Fallout (film), 169, 170

  Mississippi River, 5, 9, 25, 180, 268

  Mitterrand, François, 154, 202, 293, 334

  monasteries, Norman, 281–83

  Monet, Claude, 10, 134, 241, 253, 300

  Proust on “enchanted essence” of paintings by, 244

  residence in Giverny, 250–51

  on Rouen Cathedral, 264

  the Seine as studio for, 247, 249–50, 321

  Monnaie de Paris (the French Mint), 13, 336

  Montand, Yves, 290

  Montereau-Fault-Yonne, 20, 25, 65

  Mont-Joli, viewing Seine estuary from, 295

  Mont Lassois plateau, Celtic fortress town beneath, 61

  Montmartre, 73, 95, 171, 175, 199, 216

  Moreau, Jeanne, 228

  Morisot, Berthe, 252

  Morning on the Seine (Monet), 252

  Morvan Mountains, 34

  Moulin de Pierre at Hauville, Normandy, 280, 284

  Moveable Feast, A (Hemingway), 7, 115

  mud plugs, 300

  Municipal Council of Paris, 31

  Musée-Aquarium de la Seine, 118

  Musée Archéologique de Dijon, 42, 44, 46

  ex-votos (votive offerings) collection in, 45

  Sequana statue in, 40, 4
1–43, 75

  Musée Carnavalet, 205, 248

  extensive collections of, 74

  pirogues in, 72–74, 75

  Musée d’Art Moderne André Malraux, 300

  Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, 6, 94

  Musée de la Batellerie (Museum of Barge Navigation), 161–62

  Musée des Antiquités, Rouen, 262–63

  Musée des Beaux-Arts, Rouen, 255

  Musée d’Orsay, 117, 122, 131, 143, 191, 210, 300, 310

  Musée du quai Branly, 80

  MuséoSeine, 272, 275, 276, 279

  Mutarelli, Vincenzo, 296, 297

  Nabokov, Vladimir, 225

  Nana (Zola’s boat), 241

  Nanterre, archaeological discovery at, 79

  Napoléon Bonaparte, emperor of France, 72, 92, 102, 217, 268, 277, 299

  crowns himself emperor at Notre-Dame, 333

  public works projects of, 236, 237

  on Seine as “Main Street” of France, 20

  Seine meanders through life of, 19–21, 22

  tomb in the Hôtel des Invalides, 21, 289

  Troyes port project and, 62–63

  Napoléon III, emperor of France, 5, 65, 126, 134

  incorporates source of the Seine into Paris, 30–31

  nymph in grotto sculpture created during reign of, 31, 31–32

  Parisian water supply and sewer networks and, 102

  rowing boat built by, 110

  National Geographic Institute, 22

  Nautes, the:

  celebrated in Paris, 76, 77

  Paris’s coat of arms and tribute paid to, 79–80

  Nautilus submarine, Robert Fulton and building of, 268

  Navarro, Nicolas, 285, 286, 288

  Nazi Occupation of Paris, 227, 239, 289–90, 333

  Nègre, Charles, 192

  Neptune, 41, 47, 48

  Nerval, Gérard de, 202

  Neva River, 92

  Newsweek magazine, 119, 142, 324

  Chicago bureau, 4

  Paris bureau, 3–5

  New York, Verrazzano’s discovery of, 266, 267

  New York City Fire Department, 9/11 and, 332

  New York Times, 143, 170, 193, 272, 320, 321

  Niagara Falls, 5, 127–28, 224

  Niagara River, 5, 127, 128, 268, 269

  Nicholas II, czar of Russia, 90

  Nicholson, Jack, 122, 123

  Niemeyer, Oscar, 303

  Niépce, Joseph Nicéphore, 191

  nighttime:

  in Paris, 120, 121–28

  reinvention of the Seine, 311–12

  on the Seine, 319, 320, 323–25

  Nile River, 10, 17

  Nin, Anaïs, 16

  Niquet, Laurent, 116–17

  “Nocturne Parisien” (Verlaine), 208

  Nodier, Charles, 48

  Nogent-sur-Seine, 24, 65

  Nolan, Christopher, 175

  Nonda, Trojan horse created by, 86

  Nordling, Raoul, 291

  Normandy, 134, 153, 228, 262, 265, 271, 296, 304, 321

  bocages normands in, 284

  course of the Seine across, 24

  fruit tree trail in, 285

 

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