364. A Place of Burial in the South of Scotland. [III.]
Similar places for burial are not unfrequent in Scotland. The one that suggested this sonnet lies on the banks of a small stream, called the Wauchope, that flows into the Esk near Langholme. Mickle, who, as it appears from his poem on Sir Martin, was not without genuine poetic feelings, was born and passed his boyhood in this neighbourhood, under his father, who was a minister of the Scotch Kirk. The Esk, both above and below Langholme, flows through a beautiful country; and the two streams of the Wauchope and the Ewes, which join it near that place, are such as a pastoral poet would delight in.
365. On the Sight of a Manse in the South of Scotland. [IV.]
The manses in Scotland, and the gardens and grounds about them, have seldom that attractive appearance which is common about our English parsonages, even when the clergyman’s income falls below the average of the Scotch minister’s. This is not merely owing to the one country being poor in comparison with the other, but arises rather out of the equality of their benefices, so that no one has enough to spare for decorations that might serve as an example for others, whereas with us the taste of the richer incumbent extends its influence more or less to the poorest.
After all, in these observations, the surface only of the matter is touched. I once heard a conversation, in which the Roman Catholic religion was decried on account of its abuses: ‘You cannot deny, however,’ said a lady of the party, repeating an expression used by Charles II., ‘that it is the religion of a gentleman.’ It may be left to the Scotch themselves to determine how far this observation applies to the [religion] of their Kirk; while it cannot be denied [that] if it is wanting in that characteristic quality, the aspect of common life, so far as concerns its beauty, must suffer. Sincere Christian piety may be thought not to stand in need of refinement or studied ornament, but assuredly it is ever ready to adopt them, when they fall within its notice, as means allow: and this observation applies not only to manners, but to everything that a Christian (truly so in spirit) cultivates and gathers round him, however humble his social condition.
366. Composed in Roslin Chapel during a Storm. [V.]
We were detained, by incessant rain and storm, at the small inn near Roslin Chapel, and I passed a great part of the day pacing to and fro in this beautiful structure, which, though not used for public service, is not allowed to go to ruin. Here this sonnet was composed, and [I shall be fully satisfied] if it has at all done justice to the feeling which the place and the storm raging without inspired. I was as a prisoner. A Painter delineating the interior of the chapel and its minute features, under such circumstances, would have no doubt found his time agreeably shortened. But the movements of the mind must be more free while dealing with words than with lines and colours. Such, at least, was then, and has been on many other occasions, my belief; and as it is allotted to few to follow both arts with success, I am grateful to my own calling for this and a thousand other recommendations which are denied to that of the Painter.
367. The Trosachs. [VI.]
As recorded in my Sister’s Journal, I had first seen the Trosachs in her and Coleridge’s company. The sentiment that runs through this sonnet was natural to the season in which I again saw this beautiful spot; but this, and some other sonnets that follow, were coloured by the remembrance of my recent visit to Sir Walter Scott, and the melancholy errand on which he was going.
368. Composed in the Glen of Lock Etive. [VIII.]
‘That make the patriot spirit.’
It was mortifying to have frequent occasions to observe the bitter hatred of the lower orders of the Highlanders to their superiors: love of country seemed to have passed into its opposite. Emigration was the only relief looked to with hope.
369. Eagles: composed at Dunollie Castle in the Bay of Oban. [IX.]
The last I saw was on the wing, off the promontory of Fairhead, county of Antrim. I mention this, because, though my tour in Ireland, with Mr. Marshall and his son, was made many years ago, this allusion to the eagle is the only image supplied by it to the poetry I have since written. We travelled through the country in October; and to the shortness of the days, and the speed with which we travelled (in a carriage-and-four), may be ascribed this want of notices, in my verse, of a country so interesting. The deficiency I am somewhat ashamed of, and it is the more remarkable, as contrasted with my Scotch and continental tours, of which are to be found in these volumes so many memorials.
370. In the Sound of Mull. [X.]
Touring late in the season in Scotland is an uncertain speculation. We were detained a week by rain at Bunaw, on Loch Etive, in a vain hope that the weather would clear up, and allow me to show my daughter the beauties of Glencoe. Two days we were at the Isle of Mull, on a visit to Major Campbell; but it rained incessantly, and we were obliged to give up our intention of going to Staffa. The rain pursued us to Tyndrum, where the next sonnet was composed in a storm.
371. ‘Shepherds of Etive Glen.’ [X.]
In Gaelic — Buachaill Eite.
372. Highland Broach. [XV.]
On ascending a hill that leads from Loch Awe towards Inverary, I fell into conversation with a woman of the humbler class, who wore one of these Highland broaches. I talked with her about it, and upon parting with her, when I said, with a kindness I truly felt, ‘May the broach continue in your family for many generations to come, as you have already possessed it,’ she thanked me most becomingly, and seemed not a little moved. The exact resemblance which the old broach (still in use, though rarely met with among the Highlanders) bears to the Roman Fibula must strike every one, and concurs, with the plaid and kilt, to recall to mind the communication which the ancient Romans had with this remote country.
[Note. — How much the Broach is sometimes prized by persons in humble stations may be gathered from an occurrence mentioned to me by a female friend. She had an opportunity of benefiting a poor old woman in her own hut, who, wishing to make a return, said to her daughter in Erse, in a tone of plaintive earnestness, ‘I would give anything I have, but I hope she does not wish for my Broach!’ and uttering these words she put her hand upon the Broach which fastened her kerchief, and which she imagined had attracted the eye of her benefactress.]
373. The Brownie. [XVI.]
Upon a small island not far from the head of Loch Lomond, are some remains of an ancient building, which was for several years the abode of a solitary Individual, one of the last survivors of the clan of Macfarlane, once powerful in that neighbourhood. Passing along the shore opposite this island in the year 1814, the Author learned these particulars, and that this person then living there had acquired the appellation of ‘The Brownie.’ See ‘The Brownie’s Cell’ [‘Memorials of a Tour in Scotland, 1814,’ I.], to which the following is a sequel.
374. Bothwell Castle. [XVIII.]
In my Sister’s Journal is an account of Bothwell Castle as it appeared to us at that time.
375. The Avon: a Feeder of the Avon. [XX. l. 2.]
‘Yet is it one that other rivulets bear.’
There is the Shakspeare Avon, the Bristol Avon, the one that flows by Salisbury, and a small river in Wales, I believe, bear the name; Avon being, in the ancient tongue, the general name for river.
376. Suggested by a View from an Eminence in Inglewood Forest.
The extensive forest of Inglewood has been enclosed within my memory. I was well acquainted with it in its ancient state. The Hartshorn tree, mentioned in the next sonnet, was one of its remarkable objects, as well as another tree that grew upon an eminence not far from Penrith. It was single and conspicuous, and, being of a round shape, though it was universally known to be a ‘sycamore,’ it was always called the ‘Round Thorn,’ so difficult is it to chain fancy down to fact.
377. Hart’s-Horn Tree, near Penrith. [XXII.]
[After a quotation from Nicholson and Burns’s History of Westmoreland and Cumberland.] The tree has now disappeared, but I well remember its imposing appearance as i
t stood, in a decayed state, by the side of the high road leading from Penrith to Appleby. The whole neighbourhood abounds in interesting traditions and vestiges of antiquity, viz., Julian’s Bower; Brougham and Penrith Castles; Penrith Beacon, and the curious remains in Penrith Churchyard; Arthur’s Round Table, and, close by, Maybrough; the excavation, called the Giant’s Cave, on the banks of the Emont; Long Meg and her daughters, near Eden, &c., &c.
378. Fancy and Tradition. [XXIII.]
Suggested by the recollection of Juliana’s bower and other traditions connected with this ancient forest.
379. Countess’ Pillar. [XXIV.]
On the road-side between Penrith and Appleby there stands a pillar with the following inscription: —
‘This pillar was erected in the year 1656, by Anne Countess Dowager of Pembroke, &c. for a memorial of her last parting with her pious mother, Margaret Countess Dowager of Cumberland, on the 2d April, 1616; in memory whereof she hath left an annuity of £4, to be distributed to the poor of the parish of Brougham, every 2d day of April for ever, upon the stone table placed hard by. Laus Deo!’
XVI. EVENING VOLUNTARIES.
380. Lines composed on a high part of the coast of Cumberland, Easter Sunday, April 7th, the Author’s sixty-third birthday. [II.]
The lines were composed on the road between Moresby and Whitehaven, while I was on a visit to my son, then rector of Moresby. This succession of Voluntaries, with the exception of the 8th and 9th, originated in the concluding lines of the last paragraph of this poem. With this coast I have been familiar from my earliest childhood, and remember being struck for the first time by the town and port of Whitehaven, and the white waves breaking against its quays and piers, as the whole came into view from the top of the high ground down which the road, — which has since been altered, — then descended abruptly. My sister, when she first heard the voice of the sea from this point, and beheld the scene spread before her, burst into tears. Our family then lived at Cockermouth, and this fact was often mentioned among us as indicating the sensibility for which she was so remarkable.
381. By the Sea-side. [III.]
These lines were suggested during my residence under my son’s roof at Moresby on the coast near Whitehaven, at the time when I was composing those verses among the Evening Voluntaries that have reference to the Sea. In some future edition I purpose to place it among that class of poems. It was in that neighbourhood I first became acquainted with the ocean and its appearances and movements. My infancy and early childhood were passed at Cockermouth, about eight miles from the coast, and I well remember that mysterious awe with which I used to listen to anything said about storms and shipwrecks. Sea-shells of many descriptions were common in the town, and I was not a little surprised when I heard Mr. Landor had denounced me as a Plagiarist from himself for having described a boy applying a sea-shell to his ear, and listening to it for intimation of what was going on in its native element. This I had done myself scores of times, and it was a belief among us that we could know from the sound whether the tide was ebbing or flowing.
382. Not in the lucid intervals of life. [IV.]
The lines following, ‘Nor do words,’ &c., were written with Lord Byron’s character as a poet before me, and that of others among his contemporaries, who wrote under like influences.
383. The leaves that rustled on this oak-crowned hill. [VII.]
Composed by the side of Grasmere Lake. The mountains that enclose the vale, especially towards Easedale, are most favourable to the reverberation of sound: there is a passage in ‘The Excursion,’ towards the close of the 4th book, where the voice of the raven in flight is traced through the modifications it undergoes, as I have often heard it in that vale and others of this district.
384. Impromptu. [VIII.]
This Impromptu appeared, many years ago, among the Author’s Poems, from which, in subsequent editions, it was excluded. It is reprinted at the request of the Friend in whose presence the lines were thrown off.
384a. Ibid.
Reprinted at the request of my Sister, in whose presence the lines were thrown off.
385. Composed upon an Evening of extraordinary Splendour and Beauty. [IX.]
Felt, and in a great measure composed, upon the little mount in front of our abode at Rydal. In concluding my notices of this class of poems it may be as well to observe, that among the Miscellaneous Sonnets are a few alluding to morning impressions, which might be read with mutual benefit in connection with these Evening Voluntaries. See for example that one on Westminster Bridge, that on May 2d, on the song of the Thrush, and the one beginning ‘While beams of orient light.’
386. Alston: American Painter.
‘Wings at my shoulder seem to play’ (IX. iii. l. 9).
In these lines I am under obligation to the exquisite picture of ‘Jacob’s Dream,’ by Mr. Alston, now in America. It is pleasant to make this public acknowledgment to a man of genius, whom I have the honour to rank among my friends.
387. Mountain-ridges. [Ibid. IV. l. 20.]
The multiplication of mountain-ridges, described at the commencement of the third stanza of this Ode as a kind of Jacob’s Ladder, leading to Heaven, is produced either by watery vapours or sunny haze; in the present instance by the latter cause. Allusions to the Ode, entitled ‘Intimations of Immortality,’ pervade the last stanza of the foregoing Poem.
XVII. POEMS COMPOSED OR SUGGESTED DURING A TOUR IN THE SUMMER OF 1833.
388. Advertisement.
Having been prevented by the lateness of the season, in 1831, from visiting Staffa and Iona, the author made these the principal objects of a short tour in the summer of 1833, of which the following series of poems is a Memorial. The course pursued was down the Cumberland river Derwent, and to Whitehaven; thence (by the Isle of Man, where a few days were passed,) up the Frith of Clyde to Greenock, then to Oban, Staffa, Iona, and back towards England by Loch Awe, Inverary, Loch Goil-head, Greenock, and through parts of Renfrewshire, Ayrshire, and Dumfriesshire to Carlisle, and thence up the River Eden, and homeward by Ullswater.
389. The Greta.
‘But if thou, like Cocytus,’ &c. (IV. l. 5).
Many years ago, when I was at Greta Bridge, in Yorkshire, the hostess of the inn, proud of her skill in etymology, said, that ‘the name of the river was taken from the bridge, the form of which, as every one must notice, exactly resembled a great A.’ Dr. Whitaker has derived it from the word of common occurrence in the north of England, ‘to greet;’ signifying to lament aloud, mostly with weeping; a conjecture rendered more probable from the stony and rocky channel of both the Cumberland and Yorkshire rivers. The Cumberland Greta, though it does not, among the country people, take up that name till within three miles of its disappearance in the river Derwent, may be considered as having its source in the mountain cove of Wythburn, and flowing through Thirlmere, the beautiful features of which lake are known only to those who, travelling between Grasmere and Keswick, have quitted the main road in the vale of Wythburn, and, crossing over to the opposite side of the lake, have proceeded with it on the right hand.
The channel of the Greta, immediately above Keswick, has, for the purposes of building, been in a great measure cleared of the immense stones which, by their concussion in high floods, produced the loud and awful noises described in the sonnet.
‘The scenery upon this river,’ says Mr. Southey in his Colloquies, ‘where it passes under the woody side of Latrigg, is of the finest and most rememberable kind:
— — ”ambiguo lapsu refluitque fluitque, Occurrensque sibi venturas aspicit undas.”‘
390. Brigham Church.
‘By hooded votaresses,’ &c. (VIII. l. 11).
Attached to the church of Brigham was formerly a chantry, which held a moiety of the manor; and in the decayed parsonage some vestiges of monastic architecture are still to be seen.
391. Nun’s Well, Brigham. [VIII.]
So named from the Religious House which stood close by. I have rather an odd
anecdote to relate of the Nun’s Well. One day the landlady of a public house, a field’s length from it, on the road-side, said to me, ‘You have been to see the Nun’s Well, sir.’ ‘The Nun’s Well! What is that?’ said the postman, who in his royal livery stopt his mail-car at the door. The landlady and I explained to him what the name meant, and what sort of people the nuns were. A countryman who was standing by rather tipsy stammered out, ‘Ay, those Nuns were good people; they are gone, but we shall soon have them back again.’ The Reform mania was just then at its height.
392. To a Friend. [IX.]
‘Pastor and Patriot.’
My son John, who was then building a parsonage on his small living at Brigham.
393. Mary Queen of Scots landing at Workington. [X.]
‘The fears and impatience of Mary were so great,’ says Robertson, ‘that she got into a fisher-boat, and with about twenty attendants landed at Workington, in Cumberland; and thence she was conducted with many marks of respect to Carlisle.’ The apartment in which the Queen had slept at Workington Hall (where she was received by Sir Henry Curwen as became her rank and misfortunes) was long preserved, out of respect to her memory, as she had left it; and one cannot but regret that some necessary alterations in the mansion could not be effected without its destruction.
394. Mary Queen of Scots.[X.]
‘Bright as a star.’
I will mention for the sake of the friend who is writing down these Notes that it was among the fine Scotch firs near Ambleside, and particularly those near Green Bank, that I have over and over again paused at the sight of this image. Long may they stand to afford a like gratification to others! This wish is not uncalled for — several of their brethren having already disappeared.
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