by Diane Morgan
Bloat
A hard, swollen abdomen is a sign of bloat. Get to the vet immediately; there is no time to lose. (For more information on bloat, turn to Chapter 14.)
Breathing Difficulties
If your Husky is having trouble breathing, it is a major emergency. Labored respiration, gasping, and a blue tongue are danger signals.
Broken Bones
If your Husky has an injured leg, tie the leg to a temporary splint made of a board or something similar. Place the leg in as natural a position as possible, but don’t try to set it yourself.
If the back, pelvis, or ribs seem broken, stabilize the dog as quickly as possible without repositioning him, and get him to a vet.
Coughing
Coughing can be a symptom of anything from heartworm to secondhand smoke. Pay attention to the elements of the cough. Is it hacking or wheezing? Gagging? How often does your dog cough? This information is important for your vet to know.
Diarrhea and Vomiting
Diarrhea may result from a simple digestive upset, although it could also be a sign of something more serious. If the bout of vomiting or diarrhea doesn’t last more than a day or so, it probably isn’t anything to worry about. But a continued or frequently recurring digestive upset should be checked by a vet.
Dogs have the ability to throw up with ease, and almost anything can cause it: trash eating, diet change, poison, allergy, infection, and so on.
Bloody feces, bloody urine, or straining are all indications of trouble.
To help your dog over a round of vomiting or diarrhea, a little Pepto Bismol works wonders. Fifty-pound dogs require a little over a tablespoon. The liquid kind seems to work better than the pills but is harder to administer. Have your dog skip a meal or two afterwards, and follow with a bland, low-fat diet.
The best way to get the liquid in your dog is with a syringe (minus the needle, of course), available from your vet or drugstore. In a pinch, you’d be surprised how well a turkey baster works.
If the vomiting or diarrhea continues, take your dog to the vet, and bring a stool sample with you. The more you can tell your vet about the vomiting or diarrhea episodes (timing, frequency, severity, and so on), the more help you can be in making the diagnosis.
Heat Stress
Signs of heat stress include staggering, loud panting, vomiting, bright red gums, and a red, bleary look in the eyes. The body temperature may rise above 104 degrees. If your Siberian exhibits these symptoms, quickly provide water, submerse the dog in a tub of cool water, or apply cold wet towels. Then call your veterinarian.
Heat can also increase the chances of your dog getting a fungal infection.
There’s an old saying that a cold, wet nose means a healthy nose. This is not necessarily true. However, a hot, dry nose may indicate the first stages of dehydration; see if your dog would like some water. If his nose stays hot and dry, and if there are other symptoms, consult your veterinarian.
Poison
For most poisonings, other than caustics like Drano, making the dog vomit is a good first step.
To induce vomiting, force down a solution of one of the following:
Half water and half peroxide (1 to 3 teaspoons of each)
Lukewarm salt water (2 or 3 tablespoons of salt per cup)
1 tablespoon of dry mustard in 1 cup of water
If the dog does not vomit soon afterward, repeat the dosage while waiting for veterinary care.
After the dog has vomited (or if you can’t get him to vomit), give him 4 tablespoons of activated charcoal to absorb the remaining poison.
Antifreeze poisoning
Antifreeze depresses the central nervous system and enters the cerebrospinal fluid. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, and a staggering gait, which may lead you to wonder if the animal is drunk. Unfortunately, these symptoms may not appear for 8 to 12 hours, after irreparable damage has been done to your pet. If you suspect your dog has ingested antifreeze, get him to your veterinarian immediately. Do not wait to see if the dog appears sick. Treatment is most effective if given within four hours after your dog drinks the fluid. The best antidote for dogs now on the market is 4-methylpyrazole, sold under the brand name Antizol.
Chocolate poisoning
Dogs love chocolate, but it contains a substance called theobromine, which is toxic to canines. Theobromine is also present in tea and cola.
Symptoms of chocolate poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, frantic running around (even worse than usual), and frequent urination. If you’re able to take your dog’s pulse, you’ll also notice a faster, more irregular heartbeat.
Hydrogen peroxide can be used to make the dog vomit, if the dog has eaten the chocolate within the previous two hours. In any case, call your veterinarian immediately.
Onion and garlic poisoning
Onions can destroy canine red blood cells by oxidizing the hemoglobin inside them, reducing their ability to transport oxygen to the rest of the body. An onion-poisoned dog may become anemic. A quarter cup of onions can do a job on a medium-sized dog. It makes no difference whether the onions are cooked or not. The condition is not permanent, but dogs poisoned with onions have been known to need a blood transfusion.
Large amounts of garlic can have the same effect as onions.
Rat poison
Keep rat poison away from pets. But mistakes do happen. Rat poison is extremely palatable to dogs, as well as to rats, cats, and kids, so it’s vital to keep it locked up.
The dog next door, Buddy, was poisoned in just such a way; he managed to jump against a not so very securely latched door, and eat two cakes of poison.
The symptoms of deadly rat poison may not show up for three to five days after ingestion. The poison is an anticoagulant, so it may be four or five days before you notice anything is wrong. By the time you notice the symptoms, your dog may bleed to death internally right before your eyes.
If you even suspect your pet has been exposed to rat poison, induce vomiting immediately, and get him to the veterinarian. The vet will probably begin vitamin K injections three times a day for a couple of days, to be followed by vitamin K pills for one to three weeks afterwards. This regimen saved the life of Buddy, who never showed a symptom from his unorthodox eating habits.
Porcupine Quills
The insatiably curious Siberian, if left to his own devices, may run afoul of a porcupine, a slow-moving denizen of the northern woods. Get to a veterinarian if possible. If you can’t get to a vet, you can try to extract the quills with pliers. It’s important to get out all of the quill, so you don’t risk infection in your dog.
Seizures
Seizures are frequently a sign of epilepsy, although there may be other causes as well, such as sleep deprivation, food allergies, overused supplements, toxins like heavy metal and flea dips, hypoglycemia, and dehydration. Signs include staggering, head tilting, sudden blindness, snapping, jerking, or unaccountable aggressiveness. Seizures are frightening, but rarely life-threatening. After the seizure is over, the dog will usually come to you for reassurance and love.
During a seizure, the dog is not aware of himself or his surroundings. Remove dangerous objects, but try not to touch the dog. If a seizure continues for more than 30 minutes, it’s an emergency. The dog should be taken to the veterinarian immediately. Devise a makeshift stretcher with a blanket. Keep a record of the length, frequency, and symptoms of all seizures.
Wounds
Major wounds may require stitches; you can handle minor ones yourself. Penetrating wounds in the abdomen or chest areas should be considered major emergencies.
Clean the wound carefully, removing any hair or debris in it. Hydrogen peroxide is no longer recommended to clean wounds, because it can damage tissues. Use commercial wound cleaner like Nolvasan or even soap and water. Wash the wound thoroughly, for at least 10 minutes (most people do not wash the wound thoroughly enough).
If the wound is a puncture-type wound or an abscess, contact your veterinarian.
Part V
Bringing Out the Sled Dog in Your Siberian
In this part . . .
If you haven’t figured it out by now, Siberian Huskies were made for sledding. That’s not to say that your Husky won’t be perfectly content with his calmer home life. But whether you’re just interested in discovering what your Husky’s ancestors did or you’d like to see firsthand what he could do if you hitched him to a sled, this part is for you. If it’s sledding you’re interested in, it’s sledding you’ll get in the chapters in this part.
Chapter 16
Getting Your Husky into Sledding
In This Chapter
Understanding the sport of sledding
Getting a sled dog
Everyone associates the Siberian Husky with sled dog racing, a practice that developed during the Alaskan Gold Rush of 1896. It didn’t become a formal institution, however, until 1908, the year of the first All Alaska Sweepstakes Race.
Pulling a sled is what Siberian Huskies were bred for. It comes more naturally to them than any other canine sport. So, if you want to make the most of your Husky’s noble heritage, you can’t go wrong in hooking him up to a sled or cart, like the proud Husky owner in Figure 16-1.
Sledding 101: The Basics of the Sport
In sled dog racing, the dogs are paired up on either side of a gangline. The line that connects the dog to the gangline is called the tugline. The neckline, a thin line attached to the dog’s collar, keeps the dog close to the gangline. You will often see sled dogs leaping from one side of the gangline to the other as they try to avoid curves.
Professional teams have up to 20 dogs. The lead dogs are selected for their intelligence and willingness to lead (some nice dogs just prefer to follow along). Mushers are equal opportunity employers. Both male and female dogs are used as lead dogs.
If two lead dogs are used, they are called co-leaders. Most dogs appear to prefer having a co-leader than to run alone. Following the leader are the point dogs. Most mushers put their fastest dogs in this position, although sleds must obviously go at the speed of the slowest dog.
Figure 16-1: Sled dog racing is a fantastic sport and a great way for Husky owners to have fun with their dogs and other Husky enthusiasts.
Dave and Bonnie Lundberg
The swing dogs, who follow the point dogs, are responsible for turning the sled and other dogs in the direction of the lead dogs. Swing dogs must be strong and determined. They are responsible for making sure the turning sled doesn’t veer off course and crash into a tree. Point and swing dogs are often leader dogs in training.
The following pairs of dogs (if any) are called the team dogs and keep the entire group moving. Closest to the sled are the wheel dogs, who are the largest and most powerful dogs on the sled, pulling the most weight.
Keep in mind that the team I describe here is a deluxe team! You can mush with just one dog. And when you’re first learning the ropes, that’s by far the best plan.
When it comes to sled dog racing, probably the most difficult aspect is finding a place to train. You can’t train on concrete or in a dense forest, so your options may be pretty limited. The best thing is to join a sled dog club that sponsors meets and has access to training areas.
Unless a dog team is properly socialized, and taught to respect its human leader, the team can become a pack, with its own leader, and its own rules. The human being must remain in control at all times. A team of Huskies is much stronger than any one person, so you need to use common sense and fair treatment to keep your natural position as leader.
In the warm, snowless off-season, dogs are conditioned on three- or four-wheeled training rigs.
In today’s sled dog world, dogs generally compete in one of the following races: three dogs and three miles; six dogs and six miles; eight dogs and nine miles; and the unlimited class — up to 20 dogs at 14 miles or more. Recently, a team of 210 dogs was harnessed to a flatbed truck (with a sled in front). The dogs pulled it with no difficulty.
The premier event of sled dog racing is, of course, the Iditarod. It runs over 1,000 miles and is the longest sled dog race in the world. It was organized to honor the memory of Leonhard Seppala, who organized the 1925 run to Nome with diphtheria serum, saving the inhabitants from almost certain death. Its complete name is the Iditarod Trail Sleddog Race, and today it is worth well over $50,000 to the winning driver. See Chapter 17 for more on the Iditarod.
Nowadays, there are many international sled dog races. Chief among these, besides the Iditarod, is another Alaskan and Canadian event, the Yukon Quest. Like the Iditarod, it is a 1,000-mile run across rough terrain. Another event, the Fairbanks North American Championship covers 70 miles in three days, as does the Fur Rendezvous Sled Dog Race (“Rondy”), held every year in Anchorage.
The International Sled Dog Racing Association (ISDRA) sanctions these events. ISDRA also mandates safety regulations, trail conditions and required mushing equipment. The welfare of both dogs and drivers is paramount. Dogs must be certified healthy and free of contagious diseases. Dangerous equipment like choke collars and muzzles are forbidden, and the canine athletes are routinely tested for drugs. Even aspirin is illegal.
In the continental U.S., Idaho, New Hampshire, and Minnesota each host sled dog championships. Often, races for kids are offered, and many have torchlight parades, Mushers’ Balls, and all sorts of thrilling Winter Carnival–like events.
“Gosh, they look thin!”
Like human long-distance runners and thoroughbred horses, a well conditioned racing dog is lean (but not mean). It’s not that the dogs are poorly fed; in fact, most of them consume more calories per day than the average person. It’s just that they burn off the calories they consume.
Using commercial dog food as a complete diet is out of the question for serious drivers. These foods may be adequate for a house dog, but they simply do not provide the nutritional value a racing animal needs. Commercial foods tend to be low in fat, which is good for sedentary pets but bad for the working Siberian. Fats provide quick energy for dogs. Racing dogs may eat a diet that contains 50 percent fat, 35 percent protein, and 15 percent carbohydrates. Mushers do sometimes use a base commercial diet, supplemented with ground meat, liver, oils, and fish.
Racing sled dogs are fed four or five times a day. They often dine on salmon and other rich, high-protein foods, to the tune of over 5,000 calories a day. Siberians get along with less than other racing sled dogs, some of whom consume nearly twice as much. This food frequently smells awful, by the way.
Racing dogs also drink an enormous amount of water. They do not eat snow. Eating snow is a dehydrating activity, because it takes the body more energy to melt the snow than the snow provides by way of water. You never see Eskimos eating snow, do you?
Serious mushers are always seeking a diet that will give their dogs a winning edge. Brian Patrick O’Donoghue, in his book My Lead Dog Was a Lesbian, tells of a horrific stew called “honey balls,” a nightmarish concoction of raw hamburger, honey, corn oil, and bonemeal, all stirred up in the bathtub with a broken hockey stick. The resulting product was too awful to use.
Watching a sled race
If you get a chance, try to observe a sled race. It’s an amazing event to watch, even if you don’t feel the urge to try it yourself. Don’t bring your own dogs, however, because they can be distracting to the canine athletes, especially if they break away and go charging into the middle of the course. You are free to take all the photos you like, but keep well away from the trail as the dogs rush past!
Ask permission of owners before petting their dogs, and don’t give the animals any treats.
You will often have some time before the race to observe the animals being harnessed and readied for their task, so this is not a good time to talk to mushers about their hobby. However, once the race has begun, you can probably have a chat with the handlers, friends, and sled dog groupies about the joys of sled dog racing.
A mushing lexicon
Verbal commands are critical in the world of sled sports. The driver has no reins to guide the team; he relies on his voice and the common sense and obedience of his lead dog.
Mushers today say, “Hike!” instead of “Mush!”, just like a quarterback. Sometimes they say, “Go!” The word “mush” is a corruption of the French “March!” meaning, “Get along! Walk on!” Some say that “mush” was felt to be too soft, and well, mushy a word for the drivers, who nevertheless, are still known as mushers. Go figure.
“Gee!”: Turn right! This term and “haw” both come from old draft-horse terminology.
“Haw!”: Turn left! Some people just say “left” or “right,” but the nice thing about “gee” and “haw” is that they are the same all over the world, in every language.
“Tshckt!”: Keep going!
“Go by!” (or “on by!”): Pass on, pay no attention to whatever is distracting you!
“Trail!”: Yield the right of way!