by Diane Morgan
Caustics like drain cleaners, automatic dishwashing detergents, and toilet bowl cleaners are also extremely dangerous to dogs.
Make sure you keep all household cleaners in a place where your dog can’t get to them. And don’t just assume that he can’t get under your kitchen sink. Dogs have been known to get cupboard doors open. A high shelf in a pantry is a better bet.
Medicine Chest Menace
The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) says that 70 percent of pet poisonings are due to the ingestion of drugs. Curious dogs often get into both over-the-counter and prescription drugs, and they can easily end up dying.
Child-proof bottles are not dog-proof. A Husky can chew his way through a plastic bottle faster than you can get it out of his mouth. Keep medications locked up, and unless specifically advised by your vet, never give your pet human medication. Tylenol and ibuprofen (Advil, Nuprin, Motrin) are particularly bad for dogs. Tylenol is toxic to a dog’s liver. Ibuprofen is extremely toxic to dogs, even in low doses. And even when dogs and people take the same drugs, dosages can vary considerably. Don’t gamble with your pet’s life.
Hazardous Plants
Poisonous and otherwise dangerous house plants include cactus, English ivy, dumb cane (dieffenbachia), wax begonias, yellow calla, peace lily, and philodendron. Both philodendron and dieffenbachia, both of the Araceae family of plants, can cause intense pain and allergic reaction; the latter can swell tissues in the mouth to the point of choking the dog. Dieffenbachia induces kidney failure. Clinical signs of Araceae poisoning include salivation, head shaking, pawing at the mouth, and vomiting or diarrhea. If your dog is exhibiting any of these symptoms, get him to the vet, and bring a leaf from the suspect plant with you.
Household plants aren’t the only plant hazard for your dog. Some common poisonous yard, garden, and forest plants include the following:
Azalea and rhododendron
Boxwood
Daffodils
Delphiniums
Caladium
English ivy
Holly
Rhubarb
Skunk cabbage
Tulip bulbs
Tomato and avocado leaves
Mushrooms
Honeysuckle
Dutchman’s breeches
Mayapple
Buttercup
Foxglove
Bleeding heart
Horse chestnut
Elephant’s ear
Lily-of-the-valley
Wisteria
Morning glory
Monkshood
Daphne
Mother-in-law’s tongue
Nightshade
Holiday Leftovers
Gluttony is a deadly sin for pets, at least as far as turkey skin and fat go. They can give dogs a bad case of pancreatitis. Be generous, and give your dog a nice plate of lean turkey breast instead of the skin or fat. And never give a dog cooked chicken or turkey bones — they can get stuck or splinter in the dog’s esophagus, stomach, or bowel.
Throw the bones away, if possible, in a large jar with a screwed-on lid. That will keep the smells in and save your trash from being ravaged by the neighborhood cats and dogs, who don’t need any turkey bones stuck in their throats either.
Most Huskies are excellent counter-cruisers and can lift a whole cooked turkey right off the old carving board when no one is looking. Watch out!
Turkey stuffing sometimes contains onions, which are poisonous to dogs. Apple seeds, green potato skins, rhubarb, moldy cheese, and cherry pits are also bad for dogs. Although your dog isn’t likely to gobble down rhubarb, you never really know.
Garage Doors
Automatic garage doors can be extremely dangerous for your pet. A dear friend of mine lost her Golden Retriever puppy when he was accidentally caught in just such a door. Thankfully, most modern units have emergency safety devices built into them, which will reverse the door if it strikes something. Regardless, always be careful and check under the garage door before (and during) closing it.
Antifreeze
Without a doubt, antifreeze is the most dangerous item in your garage. Autumn, when people are changing their radiator fluid, is the time of greatest danger. Antifreeze is apparently sweet and pleasant-tasting, but the main ingredient of many brands, ethylene glycol, is deadly poison to dogs, cats, and children. Its metabolites attack and destroy the kidneys, and the final results are coma and death. Unfortunately, when dogs start drinking the stuff, they don’t stop.
Because antifreeze is a necessary fact of life for those of us in the colder climates, try using one based on propylene glycol, rather than ethylene glycol. A propylene-glycol-based antifreeze is somewhat more expensive, but it’s worth it. Propylene glycol affects the central nervous system, but not the kidneys. Tufts Veterinary Newsletter estimates that a medium-sized dog would need to ingest about 20 ounces of propylene glycol before getting seriously ill, while only 2 ounces of the more deadly ethylene glycol can kill. Propylene glycol is less tasty to dogs than is its deadly cousin. Remember: Even though propylene glycol is considerably less toxic that ethylene glycol, it is still a poison.
Most commercially sold antifreeze is 95 percent ethylene glycol. The safer alternative, propylene glycol antifreezes, includes Sierra (Safe Brands Corporation) and Sta-Clean (Sta-Clean Products).
The best solution when it comes to antifreeze is prevention. Keep all antifreeze locked away from anywhere your Husky may possibly go. And, no matter what kind of antifreeze you use, clean up any spills immediately. You can use cat litter to absorb most of the liquid; follow up with rags. And dispose of the stuff carefully. Although antifreeze is biodegradable, it takes a couple of months to degrade. Rinse the area of the spill thoroughly with water.
Lawn Chemicals
Pets and chemicals don’t mix. We Americans pour, shake, powder, rake in, and dump 300 million pounds of pesticides on our lawns every year. This stuff is not good for your pets — or your kids! Most of these chemicals are not water-soluble, which means that they’re going to be in your yard for a long, long time. They’re also poisonous.
So, if your lawn could double as a chemistry lab experiment, keep your dogs away from it. Pesticides come in two basic kinds: organophosphates and carbamates. Both types have similar toxic effects. If your dog does inadvertently walk on freshly applied chemicals, wash his little tootsies with a gentle shampoo as soon as possible.
Consider using organic, rather than chemical treatments for your lawn, like flea-eating nematodes and the seeds from the Asian neem tree. Both help rid your lawn of fleas and other pests naturally. The environment will appreciate it. Always dispose of yard-product containers safely away from pets and children. If you’re out to get slugs, make sure the slug bait is safely enclosed.
Swimming Pools
The family swimming pool can be a death trap to your pet. Although many Huskies enjoy swimming, be sure that you never leave your dog alone — even for five minutes — in the pool. A good rule is, if you wouldn’t trust the toddler, then don’t trust the dog.
If you do allow your Husky to use the pool, always show him how to find the stairs. Sometimes dogs get confused about which way is out. They should be trained to enter and exit the pool by the stairs only.
Winter covers for pools can be dangerous. Unless you have a Loop-Lock-type cover, make every effort to keep your dog and your covered pool strictly separated. Dogs cannot distinguish pool covers from solid ground until it is too late. And if they walk on the pool cover, they can get trapped and drown.
You can purchase a life vest for your dog; they come in various sizes, and are really handy, especially if you and your dog will be traveling to a lake or going boating.
Chapter 21
Ten Tips for Traveling with (Or without) Your Husky
In This Chapter
Keeping your Husky safe and happy when you travel with him
Looking into your options if you can�
�t bring your dog along
Siberians are born to be on the move; just lying around the house isn’t for them. With proper planning, you can expand your own travel plans to include your dog. Why travel solo when your best friend is just panting to go along for the ride?
In this chapter, you get some quick tips for traveling with your dog, whether by plane, train, or automobile. I also give you some great suggestions for things to do if you can’t bring your Husky with you. Planning a trip? Look no further.
Go for a Walk
Walking is a great exercise — and a great means of getting around — for both you and your Husky. When you go for walks or hikes with your Siberian, keep him attached to you with a leash at all times. Urban areas pose many hazards for dogs. Even well-behaved dogs may leap into traffic because of an irresistible squirrel, child, pile of garbage, or worse. And in rural areas, unleashed dogs encounter skunks, snakes, rabid raccoons, horse manure, and other choice goodies more often than one would wish. Our Mugwump is a genius at finding excrement and rolling delightedly in it.
If you are a hiker, consider getting a lightweight nylon backpack for your dog. Then the dog can haul his own food and water.
If you happen to be, by choice or necessity, a night walker, you may want to buy a Leashlight, which is a combination 16-foot retractable lead and flashlight. It’s a tremendous convenience for those creepy, dark alleys. And it’s sold by Black & Decker for around $35.
Include Your Husky on Your Bike Rides
Many Siberians enjoy tagging along while their owners ride their bikes. Because allowing your dog to run free can be dangerous, you can purchase some nifty devices like the Springer or Canine Cruiser, which attach the dog to the bike while preventing him from getting too close and getting hurt. These products cost around $30.
Use your head about bike riding with your dog. Make frequent stops, don’t go too fast, and don’t go too far. Dogs will exert every ounce of energy to keep up with you, and they can die of heatstroke or exhaustion in their gallant efforts. We human beings are by nature tropical beasts, but the Siberian is an arctic one. The balmy spring days we find so enjoyable are a little too hot for your Siberian to work hard. Some compromise is essential. Be alert and keep an eye on your friend.
Bring Your Siberian in the Car
Your Siberian’s car trip should begin before yours does. Most dogs love to ride, but the excitement of the trip can have unfortunate consequences. Before you leave, exercise your dog to tire him out — or at least to calm him down.
If you are a tense or aggressive driver, your attitude will transfer to your dog. Then you’ll both be on edge.
Keep your car at a cool and comfortable temperature — for the Siberian. Dogs tend to get very excited or anxious in a car, and what seems comfy for you may be unbearably hot for them. Open the window a crack and get some nice fresh air. This will help you both avoid the dreaded car trip vomit.
Keep car windows a few inches open when you have to leave your pet in the car, even briefly, on warm days. It may be a pleasant 80 degrees outside, but the temperature inside your vehicle can hit a lethal 140 degrees really fast. Puppies are especially vulnerable to heat stress. A good rule is to never leave your dog in a closed car if the temperature outside is over 60 degrees or you are parked in the sun.
You can buy a folding plastic barrier (it looks like a miniature baby gate) for your car windows. This helps circulate the air if you absolutely must leave your Husky in the car. Still, be sure to park in the shade. And don’t be gone long (more than a few minutes), if the outside temperature is above 60 degrees.
Fasten Your Husky’s Seat Belt
As a rule, your dog should ride safely in the back seat, with proper doggy seat belts. Some countries, like Germany, actually require dogs to have seat belts. Several varieties are on the market. They safely restrain your dog, keeping both you and him safe. Having a Husky leap into your lap while you’re trying to negotiate a difficult turn is not as much fun as it sounds. Unanticipated sharp stops can also hurl a dog through the windshield.
You can also buy barriers to insert between the front and back seat. These barriers are adjustable both vertically and horizontally and are pressure-mounted for quick installation. Some versions are netlike, which is fine if don’t think your dog will chew them to pieces.
Dogs love to ride in the back of pickups, but it’s usually not a safe way for them to travel. Dogs will jump out of trucks, or worse, they can be thrown out and get severely hurt or killed. If your Husky must ride in the back of a truck, you can get a dog restraint. These are designed to be used in conjunction with a harness, not a collar. Remember, though, this restraint does nothing to prevent debris from being blown into your pet’s eyes, a very real danger. Alternatively, and more safely, you can secure the dog’s crate in the cargo area. Consider a cargo liner; Rearguard makes one that fastens with Velcro.
Dogs, especially when excited, pant and drool a lot and can quickly become dehydrated. To reduce chances of dehydration, bring along a canteen with a plastic dish attached. Many companies make special traveling water and food containers, some of which are soft sided for easy handling and storage. There’s a product called Pet Galley that holds about 1 gallon of water and 7 cups of food. Freeze the water first to keep it extra cool for your pet.
Bringing your own water is especially important for puppies. Young animals are very sensitive to water changes and can acquire a bad case of diarrhea from drinking strange water. And believe me, puppy diarrhea is the last thing you want to deal with while on a vacation.
Find a Pet-Friendly Hotel
According to a survey taken by the American Animal Hospital Association, 41 percent of pet owners take their pets along on a vacation, at least sometimes. Some hotels allow pets, but you need to inquire first. Expect to put down a deposit, because hotels take a dim view of having their carpets and furniture eaten or urinated upon by pets.
Even a dog who never chews anything at home may suddenly develop a tremendous taste for curtains when away. Most hotels will not allow you to leave your pet alone in the room and require that he be kept crated at all times, even when you are there.
It’s very important for dogs everywhere to make a good impression on the hotel management and staff. People make decisions about welcoming dogs based on the behavior of those who have gone before. Be sure to pick up after your dog every time. It’s disturbing, but the number of hotels who accept dogs has dropped by 25 percent in recent years. If your dog is not well behaved in every way, it’s best to leave him at home.
Take Public Transportation
Some municipalities allow you to bring your Siberian on a bus, even if he’s not a certified guide or service dog. Some places merely require the dog to be restrained on a leash or confined in a crate. A few cities just stipulate that the dog should be “well behaved,” while using public transport, whereas others add size requirements. Some cities want dogs to be muzzled. Sometimes the pets must pay a fare. Some cities employ the “one dog per bus or car” rule. Be sure to check with the city you’re visiting to see what its policies are in this regard.
Fly with Your Husky
If you’re thinking about flying with your dog, call the airlines and compare pet policies. The USDA-APHIS produces an excellent brochure entitled “Traveling by Air with your Pet.” You can call 301-734-7833 to get a copy. The ASPCA also has a booklet entitled “Traveling with Your Pet.”
Many airlines and state health officials require health certificates issued by a licensed veterinarian within ten days of the scheduled flight, so have your pet checked out within that time.
U.S. territories and many foreign countries have quarantines or special health regulations. Check with your travel agent, the airline, or the appropriate consulate for specific information about your destination.
Dogs must be at least 8 weeks old and weaned at the time of flight. It’s best not to ship elderly animals. And you should never ship a bitch who is in heat.<
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If possible, schedule a direct, nonstop flight, which is less stressful for your pet and will reduce his chances of being lost. Try to schedule flights during less-busy times. Don’t have your pet sedated before a flight if at all possible; tranquilizers can wreak havoc on a dog’s temperature regulatory systems. Check with your veterinarian and get his advice.
Crate your dog in an approved container, and attach all necessary instructions to it. Approved containers are big enough to allow the dog to sit, lie down, stand, and turn around. The floor of the container must be solid and covered with absorbent lining or litter. Pegboard flooring is not allowed. Most airlines require that wheels on the container be removed or made immobile prior to the flight. Kennels must be ventilated. Be sure to buy a crate that is airline-approved.