1 teaspoon lightly packed grated lemon zest
1 big bunch watercress (about 2 ounces), dry ends trimmed, roughly chopped
Kosher salt
Put the garlic in a food processor and process until it’s finely minced, stopping to scrape down the sides a couple of times.
Add the butter and lemon zest and pulse a couple of times to get the butter creamy. Don’t pulse too much, however, because if you overprocess the butter it can separate.
Now add the watercress and a healthy pinch of salt and pulse again until the watercress is nicely incorporated—you’ll still see flecks; it won’t be completely pureed.
Taste and add more salt if you like, and pile into whatever container you want to serve or save it in. Chill the butter for at least 1 hour to firm it up and to let the flavors marry and permeate the butter.
More ways:
→ Mash into potatoes.
→ Spread on bread for a chicken sandwich.
→ Swirl into a bean soup.
Brown Butter
Use this technique whenever you want to add a supernutty dimension to your butter, such as in crepes and pancakes, on fish, or as a final drizzle on a pureed vegetable soup. Photograph
» Makes as much as you want to make
Unsalted butter
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Keep cooking the butter, swirling the pan every few seconds, until all the water has evaporated, the milk solids on the bottom of the butter have turned deep gold, and the butter smells fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes—or more, depending on the amount of butter you use and the surface area of your pan.
Immediately (so the butter doesn’t keep cooking) pour into another container. Some people decant off only the pure butterfat, but I like to include the toasted milk solids as well, unless I’m intending to use the butter as a cooking fat (in which case the solids would burn).
Pistachio Butter
This is a true nut butter—there’s no dairy involved. When I worked at Lupa in New York City, we had a beet and pistachio butter salad that was famous—they could not take it off the menu for fear of riots. I’ve created my own version of that butter, and it’s amazingly versatile. The flavor is super rich as is, but it’s also really tasty with a squeeze of lime or lemon to cut through that richness.
» Makes 1 cup
1 cup (about 5 ounces) pistachios, lightly toasted
⅓ cup water
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Process the pistachios in a food processor to get them as fine as possible. With the motor running, pour in the water, vinegar, and salt and process until smooth, scraping down the sides as needed.
Again with the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil. Taste and adjust with more salt or vinegar. Store in the fridge for up to 10 days.
More ways:
→ Pipe or spread onto celery sticks for an appetizer.
→ Smear on a plate and top with roasted root vegetables.
→ Drizzle over lamb meatballs, served on basmati rice.
Whipped Ricotta
Whipped ricotta is a spreadable flavor machine, incredible with tomato salads and perfect on the flatbreads in this book, either naked or topped with some wilted, sautéed, or roasted vegetables or greens. It keeps well, so store some in your fridge; you will always find ways to use it.
» Makes about 1½ cups
1½ cups whole-milk ricotta cheese
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
Put the ricotta, salt, and 20 twists of pepper in a food processor and start to process. With the motor running, add the olive oil in a thin stream. Pause and scrape down the sides if needed. The mixture should get lovely and creamy. Taste it and adjust with more salt, pepper, or even a bit more olive oil—you should be able to taste the oil as well as the ricotta. Store in the fridge for up to 1 week.
Whipped Feta
Use the same process with feta cheese, adding 2 tablespoons lemon juice and a touch more olive oil. Adjust the texture and flavor with more oil and lemon.
More ways (for either version):
→ Spread on good bread and top with something savory: anchovies, peperonata, salsa verde.
→ Use as a dip for grilled vegetables.
SAUCES, DIPS, AND DRESSINGS
Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette
This recipe is adapted from Mr. Wilkinson’s Vegetables by Matt Wilkinson, a chef based in Melbourne, Australia. It’s magically great with many things, in particular turnips, asparagus, broccoli, and cauliflower. Keep some around at all times; you won’t have a problem finding things to do with it.
» Makes about ¾ cup
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
⅓ cup golden raisins
3 garlic cloves, peeled
3 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained
One 2-ounce can anchovy fillets, drained
¾ cup lightly packed flat-leaf parsley leaves
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Put the vinegar and raisins in a little bowl and let the raisins plump for about 30 minutes.
Put the garlic in a food processor and pulse until finely minced, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.
Add the capers and anchovies and pulse until you have a coarse paste. Add the parsley and pulse until completely chopped, again scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary.
Add the raisins and vinegar and pulse until the mixture is blended but still slightly coarse. Scrape the mixture from the processor into a bowl and whisk in the olive oil to make a slightly chunky dressing. Taste and adjust with salt or more oil, if needed. Store in the fridge for up to 3 weeks.
More ways:
→ Spoon over grilled eggplant slices.
→ Fold into ratatouille.
→ Toss with steamed broccoli or broccoli rabe.
Pancetta Vinaigrette
This dressing is wonderful when served warm over sturdy greens, such as frisée or escarole, and it’s also fantastic on anything starchy, such as boiled smashed potatoes or shell beans. Dress a tomato and butter lettuce salad with it, and you’ve got a BLT on a plate.
» Makes about 1 cup
Extra-virgin olive oil
3 ounces pancetta, finely chopped
3 scallions, trimmed (including ½ inch off the green tops), thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
¼ cup red wine vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put a small glug of olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat, add the pancetta, and cook it slowly, stirring often, until the fat is rendered out and the pancetta is barely crisp, 7 to 9 minutes.
Take the pan from the heat and when the oil stops sizzling, add the scallions and garlic. Stir for a few minutes to soften the scallions.
Whisk in the vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and then whisk in ¼ cup olive oil. Taste the dressing and add more oil, salt, or pepper. It should be sharp, but it shouldn’t make you cough.
You can store this in the refrigerator for a few weeks; the fat will solidify on the top. To use, let it sit at room temperature until the fat melts, then give a quick stir to blend the ingredients again.
More ways:
→ Update Lyonnaise salad, with frisée and a poached egg.
→ Sauté pork cutlets and deglaze the pan with the vinaigrette.
→ Toss with warm pinto beans and chunks of tomato.
Pine Nut Vinaigrette
This is an old recipe from my days at Franny’s, a restaurant in Brookly
n where I worked for several years. It’s such an incredibly tasty yet simple vinaigrette—my Italian version of an Asian peanut sauce, perhaps. The sauce packs a lot of flavor, so go easy with it when you’re dressing your vegetables or greens. You can always thin it out with a little fresh lemon or lime juice to add more punch.
» Makes 1 cup
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons water
4 ounces pine nuts, lightly toasted
½ garlic clove, smashed and peeled
½ teaspoon dried chile flakes
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Pour the vinegar, fish sauce, and water into a small bowl or cup.
Put the pine nuts, garlic, chile flakes, and about half the vinegar mixture into a food processor and process until you have a slightly smooth puree, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil and then the rest of the vinegar mixture. The ingredients should emulsify into a creamy, thick-but-pourable dressing.
Taste (watch out for the blade!) and adjust the flavors with more vinegar, fish sauce, or chile flakes. Adjust the consistency with more water if need be.
Store in the fridge for up to 1 week.
More ways:
→ Smear on a platter and top with roasted or grilled asparagus or broccoli.
→ Toss with grated carrots.
→ Drizzle on sautéed corn kernels.
Citrus Vinaigrette
Make this dressing with blood oranges when they are in season. The dressing is delicious cold, or you can gently warm it. It lasts forever in the refrigerator. Use it with leaf salads, root vegetables, celery, broccoli—the entire brassica family, really—plus asparagus, peas, snap peas, fennel, seafood, grain-based salads . . . shall I go on?
» Makes about 1½ cups
1 orange
1 lemon
1 lime
1½ tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Using a rasp-style grater, zest all the citrus into a bowl. Halve the fruit and squeeze all the juice into the same bowl to get ⅔ cup juice (fish out the seeds). Whisk in the honey, vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, and several twists of pepper.
Taste and adjust with more honey, vinegar, and salt and pepper, if needed, to make the flavor vibrant. Whisk in the olive oil a few drops at a time or put the juice mixture into a blender or food processor and drizzle in the oil while the machine is running; the machine method will make the vinaigrette creamier and emulsified.
Store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
More ways:
→ Dress a salad of shaved fennel and thinly sliced celery.
→ Drizzle over sautéed or grilled shrimp.
→ Toss with roasted beets and chopped walnuts.
In the kitchen Wake up this dressing, or any vinaigrette that’s been in the fridge for more than a day or two, with a bit of fresh lemon, lime, or orange juice and another tiny pinch of salt.
Lemon Cream
This is a light, almost feminine dressing that is beautiful on a simple spring lettuce salad, but also on other green vegetables.
» Makes ¾ cup
4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
½ cup heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
About 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Put the garlic and cream in a medium bowl and let infuse for 2 hours in the refrigerator, so the cream takes on a gentle garlic flavor.
Fish out the garlic cloves from the cream, season generously with salt and lots of twists of pepper, and then add the lemon zest. Begin whisking the cream. Once it starts to thicken, add 2 tablespoons lemon juice and the olive oil. Keep whisking until it is light and airy. It won’t be thick like fully whipped cream, but it will have a nice creamy texture. Taste and adjust with more salt, pepper, or lemon juice. Use this dressing within a day.
More ways:
→ Dress any type of green salad.
→ Drizzle over cold poached shrimp or scallops.
→ Toss with thinly sliced cucumbers.
Green Herb Mayonnaise
I do love a pure from-scratch mayonnaise, but they can be runny and they use up a lot of olive oil. Starting with good-quality store-bought mayo and then freshening up the flavor with a yolk and some oil is a fine compromise, and a time-saver. You can use whatever mix of fresh herbs you like—this is just a suggestion.
» Makes about 1 ½ cups
1 small handful flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems
1 small handful basil leaves
Healthy pinch of mint leaves
Healthy pinch of tarragon leaves
Healthy pinch of dill fronds
1 cup Hellmann’s or Best Foods mayonnaise
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Put the parsley, basil, mint, tarragon, and dill in a food processor and pulse 3 or 4 times to partially chop. Add the mayonnaise and pulse a few more times to blend. Pulse in the egg yolk, lemon juice, salt, and several twists of pepper, then, with the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil and process until the mayo is creamy and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Taste (watch the blade!) and adjust with more salt, pepper, or lemon juice. Store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
More ways:
→ Fold with boiled diced potatoes for potato salad.
→ Mix with shredded rotisserie chicken and roll up into a wrap sandwich.
→ Use instead of plain mayo when making a tuna sandwich.
Artichoke Mayonnaise
I love the flavor of artichokes and mayonnaise, but to be honest, I wouldn’t bother prepping and cooking fresh artichokes just for this! Using a good-quality artichoke heart from a jar is a good idea.
» Makes about 2 cups
6 artichoke hearts (it’s totally fine to use the ones in a jar, but drain them well)
1 small handful fresh basil leaves
6 medium fresh mint leaves
1 cup Hellmann’s or Best Foods mayonnaise
1 egg yolk
About 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Put the artichoke hearts, basil, and mint in a food processor and pulse 3 or 4 times to partially chop. Add the mayonnaise and pulse a few more times to blend. Pulse in the egg yolk, lemon juice, salt, and several twists of pepper, then, with the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil and process until the mayo is creamy and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Taste (watch the blade!) and adjust with more salt, pepper, or lemon juice. Store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
More ways:
→ Spread on good white bread and top with sliced spring onions for a new version of James Beard’s favorite sandwich.
→ Sprinkle with Parmigiano and breadcrumbs, broil, and use as a hot dip for potato chips.
→ Spread on fish fillets and bake in a hot oven.
Pickled Vegetable Mayonnaise
The more, the merrier when it comes to adding pickles to this mayonnaise. Aim for a mix of colors and flavors. I don’t usually use cucumber pickles, such as dill or bread-and-butter, but no harm in including a few if you like them.
» Makes 2 heaping cups
1 cup Hellmann’s or
Best Foods mayonnaise
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
About 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup chopped mixed pickled vegetables
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained, roughly chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the mayonnaise, egg yolk, lemon zest, and lemon juice in a food processor and pulse a few times to blend. With the motor is running, drizzle in the olive oil and process until the mayo is creamy and fluffy. Add the chopped pickles and capers and pulse just a couple of times to blend—you want to keep this quite chunky, like chunky tartar sauce. Taste (watch the blade!) and adjust with salt, pepper, or lemon juice. Store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
More ways:
→ Serve with fried fish instead of tartar sauce.
→ Slather it on good rye bread for a roast beef sandwich.
→ Blend into egg yolks for the best deviled eggs.
Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce
When I lived in New York, a group of us chefs used to go to Queens to eat at SriPraPhai, a Thai restaurant where they serve a fried watercress salad dressed in a spicy, garlicky Thai fish sauce dressing. That dish made a big impression on me. I use Red Boat fish sauce, which is delicious and affordable, and it feels to me more artisan-made than mass-produced.
» Makes about 1¼ cups
¼ cup seeded, deribbed, and minced fresh hot chiles (use a mix of colors)
4 large garlic cloves, minced
½ cup fish sauce
¼ cup water
Six Seasons Page 5