Heat a glug of olive oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the ground beef and pork, breaking up any big chunks, and cook until the meats are no longer pink, another 5 to 10 minutes. Take care to not brown the meat; you don’t want crusty bits. Remove the meat.
Add the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and lots of twists of pepper. As soon as the vegetables begin to sizzle, reduce the heat to medium-low. Keep cooking, stirring frequently, until they are soft and fragrant, but not browned at all, about 10 minutes.
Return the meat to the pan, then add the wine. Simmer until the wine has reduced to just a small amount of liquid, about 10 minutes.
Fold in the pumpkin mixture and the milk. Season with salt and pepper, and adjust the heat to a very low simmer, cover, and simmer the sauce until the flavors are all nicely married, another hour or so. Check on the sauce during cooking to be sure it’s not drying out; if so, add a bit more water. You want the meat to be in very small bits and the meat fat should have separated out a bit. Taste the sauce and adjust with more salt and lots of pepper, if needed.
Serve with cooked pasta and lots of grated Parmigiano.
In the kitchen Rather than wrestling with unwieldy and tough-skinned pumpkin or winter squash, give it a blast in the microwave before cutting. You won’t really cook it—you’ll just soften it enough for your knife to penetrate more easily. Slit the squash and microwave for 3 minutes for a medium size, longer for a bruiser like a big kabocha or pumpkin. Let the squash cool, then either peel or cut open and into slices or chunks.
Acknowledgments
I would like to thank: Tom Petty, Bob Dylan, my mom and pops, Martha Holmberg, Ann Bramson, Laura Dart, Ashley Marti, A.J. Meeker, Michelle Ishay-Cohen, Renata Di Biase, Melinda Josie, Bella, Maine, Duane Sorenson, Sam Smith, Charlie Trotter, Andrew Fienberg, Mark Ladner, David Chang, Four Season Farm, Ayers Creek, Artisan, Dan Barber, Mario Batali, Alice Waters, Sean Brock, the River Café, Jamie Oliver, All-Clad, Le Creuset, Staub, Williams-Sonoma, Breville, all the farmers, farmers’ markets, all the dishwashers, all the good jukeboxes, long roads and changing seasons. —Joshua McFadden
Warm thanks to collaborators Andrea Slonecker, Danielle Centoni, and Li Agen and to the genius team at Artisan. Huge affection and gratitude to our wise editor, Ann Bramson, who managed to gracefully wrangle us into making the best book we could. And thanks to Joshua McFadden for your infectious enthusiasm, for lots of pink wine, and for teaching me things about cooking that I thought I already knew. —Martha Holmberg
Index
Note: Page numbers have been removed from the index for this electronic edition. To locate any of the following terms, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.
A | B | C | D | E | F | G
H | K | L | M | N | O | P
R | S | T | V | W | Y | Z
A
almonds:
Brined and Roasted Almonds
Burnt Carrots with Honey, Black Pepper, Butter, and Almonds
Celery Root with Brown Butter, Oranges, Dates, and Almonds
Celery Salad with Dates, Almonds, and Parmigiano
Couscous with English Peas, Apricots, and Lamb Meatballs
Freekeh, Mushrooms, Turnips, and Almonds
Grilled Radishes with Dates, Apples, and Radish Tops
Raw Artichoke Salad with Herbs, Almonds, and Parmigiano
Raw “Couscous” Cauliflower with Almonds, Dried Cherries, and Sumac
Roasted Fennel with Apples, Taleggio Cheese, and Almonds
anchovies:
Broccoli Rabe, Mozzarella, Anchovy, and Spicy Tomato
Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette
Celery Puntarelle-Style
Grated Carrot Salad with Grilled Scallions, Walnuts, and Burrata
Leeks with Anchovy and Soft-Boiled Eggs
Raw Brussels Sprouts with Lemon, Anchovy, Walnuts, and Pecorino
salt-packed, prepping
appetizers. See also toasts
Battered and Fried Cabbage with Crispy Seeds and Lemon
Carta di Musica with Roasted Eggplant Spread, Herbs, and Ricotta Salata
Charred Broccoli with Tonnato, Pecorino, Lemon, and Chiles
Crispy Mushrooms with Green Herb Mayonnaise
Crispy Sugar Snap Peas with Tonnato and Lemon
Delicata Squash “Donuts” with Pumpkin Seeds and Honey
Fontina-Stuffed Arancini
Fried Stuffed Zucchini Flowers, Zucchini Jojos, and Zucchini Pickles
Grilled Artichokes with Artichoke-Parmigiano Dip
made with asparagus frittata
Rainbow Chard with Garlic and Jalapeños
Shaved Collard Greens with Cashews and Pickled Peppers
shell bean dip, preparing
apples:
Celery, Apple, and Peanut Salad
Grilled Radishes with Dates, Apples, and Radish Tops
Roasted Fennel with Apples, Taleggio Cheese, and Almonds
Smashed Rutabaga with Apples and Ham
apricots:
Couscous with English Peas, Apricots, and Lamb Meatballs
Cucumbers, Celery, Apricots, and Pistachios
Farro and Roasted Carrot Salad with Apricots, Pistachios, and Whipped Feta
artichokes:
Artichoke and Farro Salad with Salami and Herbs
Artichoke Mayonnaise
baby, about
cup-shaped base of
early spring crop
fall crop
Grilled Artichokes with Artichoke-Parmigiano Dip
“heart” of (center portion)
Raw Artichoke Salad with Herbs, Almonds, and Parmigiano
storing
trimming leaves from
varieties of
arugula:
Bitter Greens Salad with Melted Cheese
Kohlrabi with Citrus, Arugula, Poppy Seeds, and Crème Fraîche
Potato and Roasted Cauliflower Salad with Olives, Feta, and Arugula
Sautéed Corn Four Ways
String Beans, Pickled Beans, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Olives on Tonnato
Tomato Soup with Arugula, Torn Croutons, and Pecorino
asparagus:
Asparagus, Garlic Chives, and Pea Shoots, with or without an Egg
Asparagus, Nettle, and Green Garlic Frittata
choosing
cooking methods
flavor of
Grilled Asparagus with Fava Beans and Walnuts
hot brine pickling
prepping
Raw Asparagus Salad with Breadcrumbs, Walnuts, and Mint
slicing thinly
storing
Vignole
Ava Gene’s (Portland, OR)
avocados:
Grilled Green Tomatoes with Avocado, Feta, and Watermelon
Pan-Roasted Carrots with Carrot-Top Salsa Verde, Avocado, and Seared Squid
Roasted Beets, Avocado, and Sunflower Seeds
Ayers Creek Farm (Oregon)
B
bacon. See pancetta
basil:
Chilled Seafood Salad with Fennel, Radish, Basil, and Crème Fraîche
Farro with Tomatoes, Raw Corn, Mint, Basil, and Scallions
Fava and Pistachio Pesto on Pasta
Grilled Wax and Green Beans with Tomatoes, Basil, and Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce
Spaghetti with Small Tomatoes, Garlic, Basil, and Chiles
Squash Ribbons with Tomatoes, Peanuts, Basil, Mint, and Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce
Sugar Snap Peas with Pickled Cherries and Peanuts
Batter for Fried Vegetables
beans. See beans (dried); fava beans; shell beans; string beans
beans (dried):
about
adding acidic ingredients to
adding white beans to tomato soup
Beans and Pasta
Beans on Toast
black turtle, about
borlotti, about
buying
chickpeas, about
cooking liquid, uses for
Crunchy Mixed-Bean Salad with Celery and Tarragon
fava, about
Israeli-Spiced Tomatoes, Yogurt Sauce, and Chickpeas
Perfect Shell Beans
Risotto with Shell Beans, Sausage, and Bitter Greens
soaking and cooking
storing
using in place of fresh shell beans
beef:
Braised Beef with Lots of Onions
“Chinese” Beef and Broccoli
Grilled Carrots, Steak, and Red Onion with Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce
pot roast, topping with peperonata
Pumpkin Bolognese
resting before serving
Sautéed Mushrooms and Mussels in Cream on Sliced Steak
topping with eggplant and salsa verde
beet greens:
Roasted Beets, Avocado, and Sunflower Seeds
serving and cooking
using in place of Swiss chard
beets (early season):
about
Beet Slaw with Pistachios and Raisins
cold brine pickling
cooking methods
peeling, note about
raw, flavor of
Roasted Beets, Avocado, and Sunflower Seeds
beets (late season):
about
Roasted and Smashed Beets with Spiced Green Sauce
Roasted Beet, Citrus, and Olive Salad with Horseradish
Roasted Beets and Carrots with Couscous, Sunflower Seeds, Citrus, and Feta
storing
black peppercorns:
Cacio e Pepe Butter
grinding
storing
Bottarga, Double-Mushroom Toast with
Boutard, Anthony
Boutard, Carol
Brandade, Kohlrabi
breadcrumbs:
Dried Breadcrumbs
Fontina-Stuffed Arancini
Grilled Asparagus with Fava Beans and Walnuts
Raw Asparagus Salad with Breadcrumbs, Walnuts, and Mint
Roasted Turnips with Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette and Breadcrumbs
breads. See also breadcrumbs; croutons; sandwiches; toasts
Carta di Musica with Roasted Eggplant Spread, Herbs, and Ricotta Salata
“Herbed” Butter with Warm Bread
Slightly Tangy Flatbreads
Whole-Grain Carta di Musica
broccoli:
about
best cooking methods
Charred Broccoli with Tonnato, Pecorino, Lemon, and Chiles
“Chinese” Beef and Broccoli
choosing
Pan-Steamed Broccoli with Sesame Seeds, Parmigiano, and Lemon
Rigatoni with Broccoli and Sausage
Smashed Broccoli and Potatoes with Parmigiano and Lemon
Spigarello, about
stems, flavor in
storing
trimming
broccoli rabe:
Broccoli Rabe, Mozzarella, Anchovy, and Spicy Tomato
in pan-steamed broccoli recipe
Brussels sprouts:
about
Brussels Sprouts with Pickled Carrots, Walnuts, Cilantro, and Citrus Vinaigrette
Gratin of Brussels Sprouts, Gruyère, and Prosciutto
hot brine pickling
raw, slicing thin
Raw Brussels Sprouts with Lemon, Anchovy, Walnuts, and Pecorino
Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta Vinaigrette
on stalks, at farmers’ markets
trimming
butter:
Alla Diavola Butter
Brown Butter
Cacio e Pepe Butter
Double-Mushroom Butter
flavored, storing and using
Green Garlic Butter
“Herbed” Butter with Warm Bread
Mushroom Butter
Pan-Roasted New Potatoes with Butters
Pickled Vegetable Butter
Raw Winter Squash with Brown Butter, Pecans, and Currants
Roasted Radishes with Brown Butter, Chile, and Honey
Watercress Butter
C
cabbage:
about
Asian varieties
Battered and Fried Cabbage with Crispy Seeds and Lemon
Cabbage and Mushroom Hand Pies
choosing and storing
Comforting Cabbage, Onion, and Farro Soup
cooking methods
European varieties
flavor, after winter frost
raw, serving ideas
Roasted Cabbage with Walnuts, Parmigiano, and Saba
round, coring
Shaved Collard Greens with Cashews and Pickled Peppers
Steamed Cabbage with Lemon, Butter, and Thyme
Cake, Loaf, Parsnip, Date, and Hazelnut, with Meyer Lemon Glaze
capers:
about
buying and storing
Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette
Grilled or Roasted Summer Squash with Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette
Roasted Mushrooms, Gremolata-Style
Roasted Turnips with Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette and Breadcrumbs
carrot greens:
buying and storing
Pan-Roasted Carrots with Carrot-Top Salsa Verde, Avocado, and Seared Squid
carrots (early season):
adding to peas and potatoes recipe
Brussels Sprouts with Pickled Carrots, Walnuts, Cilantro, and Citrus Vinaigrette
buying and storing
Carrots, Dates, and Olives with Crème Fraîche and Frico
cold brine pickling
English Pea and Pickled Carrot Salsa Verde
Grilled Carrots, Steak, and Red Onion with Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce
Lamb Ragu with Carrots and Green Garlic
Pan-Roasted Carrots with Carrot-Top Salsa Verde, Avocado, and Seared Squid
raw, ideas for
slicing on sharp angle
carrots (late season):
about
best uses for
Brussels Sprouts with Pickled Carrots, Walnuts, Cilantro, and Citrus Vinaigrette
Burnt Carrots with Honey, Black Pepper, Butter, and Almonds
Carrot Pie in a Pecan Crust
cold brine pickling
English Pea and Pickled Carrot Salsa Verde
Farro and Roasted Carrot Salad with Apricots, Pistachios, and Whipped Feta
Grated Carrot Salad with Grilled Scallions, Walnuts, and Burrata
Roasted Beets and Carrots with Couscous, Sunflower Seeds, Citrus, and Feta
Cashews and Pickled Peppers, Shaved Collard Greens with
cassoulet, quick, preparing
cauliflower:
about
Baked Cauliflower with Salt Cod, Currants, and Pine Nuts
Cauliflower Ragu
Cauliflower Steak with Provolone and Pickled Peppers
choosing
cold brine pickling
Fried Cauliflower with Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce
Potato and Roasted Cauliflower Salad with Olives, Feta, and Arugula
preparing
Raw “Couscous” Cauliflower with Almonds, Dried Cherries, and Sumac
Roasted Cauliflower, Plums, Sesame Seeds, and Yogurt
Romanesco, about
storing
celery:
blanching, while growing
braised
Braised Celery and Radicchio Salad with Perfect Roast Chicken
buying and storing
Celery, Apple, and Peanut Salad
Celery, Sausage, Provolone, Olives, and Pickled Peppers
Celery Gratin
Celery Puntarelle-Style
Celery Salad with Dates, Almonds, and Parmigiano
cold brine pickling
Cream of Celery Soup
Crunchy Mixed-Bean Salad with Celery and Tarragon
Cucumbers, Celery, Apricots, and Pistachios
leaves, cooking with
pale tender inner stalks, about
Parsnip Soup with Pine Nut, Currant, and Celery Leaf Relish
slicing on sharp angle
celery root:
about
Celery Root, Cracked Wheat, and Every-Fall-Vegetable-You-Can-Find Chowder
Celery Root with Brown Butter, Oranges, Dates, and Almonds
choosing
cooking methods
Fried Celery Root Steaks with Citrus and Horseradish
Mashed Celery Root with Garlic and Thyme
preparing
Chang, David
cheese:
adding to polenta
Agrodolce Ramps on Grilled Bread
Bitter Greens Salad with Melted Cheese
Broccoli Rabe, Mozzarella, Anchovy, and Spicy Tomato
Cacio e Pepe Butter
Carrots, Dates, and Olives with Crème Fraîche and Frico
Carta di Musica with Roasted Eggplant Spread, Herbs, and Ricotta Salata
Cauliflower Ragu
Cauliflower Steak with Provolone and Pickled Peppers
Celery, Sausage, Provolone, Olives, and Pickled Peppers
Celery Gratin
Celery Puntarelle-Style
Celery Salad with Dates, Almonds, and Parmigiano
Charred Broccoli with Tonnato, Pecorino, Lemon, and Chiles
Cheese-Stuffed and Pan-Fried Sweet Peppers
Comforting Cabbage, Onion, and Farro Soup
Corn and Tomato Salad with Torn Croutons
Crispy Mushrooms with Green Herb Mayonnaise
Crispy Sugar Snap Peas with Tonnato and Lemon
Delicata Squash “Donuts” with Pumpkin Seeds and Honey
English Pea Toast
Farro and Roasted Carrot Salad with Apricots, Pistachios, and Whipped Feta
Fava, Farro, Pecorino, and Salami Salad
Fava and Pistachio Pesto on Pasta
Six Seasons Page 35