Six Seasons

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Six Seasons Page 35

by Joshua McFadden


  Heat a glug of olive oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the ground beef and pork, breaking up any big chunks, and cook until the meats are no longer pink, another 5 to 10 minutes. Take care to not brown the meat; you don’t want crusty bits. Remove the meat.

  Add the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and lots of twists of pepper. As soon as the vegetables begin to sizzle, reduce the heat to medium-low. Keep cooking, stirring frequently, until they are soft and fragrant, but not browned at all, about 10 minutes.

  Return the meat to the pan, then add the wine. Simmer until the wine has reduced to just a small amount of liquid, about 10 minutes.

  Fold in the pumpkin mixture and the milk. Season with salt and pepper, and adjust the heat to a very low simmer, cover, and simmer the sauce until the flavors are all nicely married, another hour or so. Check on the sauce during cooking to be sure it’s not drying out; if so, add a bit more water. You want the meat to be in very small bits and the meat fat should have separated out a bit. Taste the sauce and adjust with more salt and lots of pepper, if needed.

  Serve with cooked pasta and lots of grated Parmigiano.

  In the kitchen Rather than wrestling with unwieldy and tough-skinned pumpkin or winter squash, give it a blast in the microwave before cutting. You won’t really cook it—you’ll just soften it enough for your knife to penetrate more easily. Slit the squash and microwave for 3 minutes for a medium size, longer for a bruiser like a big kabocha or pumpkin. Let the squash cool, then either peel or cut open and into slices or chunks.

  Acknowledgments

  I would like to thank: Tom Petty, Bob Dylan, my mom and pops, Martha Holmberg, Ann Bramson, Laura Dart, Ashley Marti, A.J. Meeker, Michelle Ishay-Cohen, Renata Di Biase, Melinda Josie, Bella, Maine, Duane Sorenson, Sam Smith, Charlie Trotter, Andrew Fienberg, Mark Ladner, David Chang, Four Season Farm, Ayers Creek, Artisan, Dan Barber, Mario Batali, Alice Waters, Sean Brock, the River Café, Jamie Oliver, All-Clad, Le Creuset, Staub, Williams-Sonoma, Breville, all the farmers, farmers’ markets, all the dishwashers, all the good jukeboxes, long roads and changing seasons. —Joshua McFadden

  Warm thanks to collaborators Andrea Slonecker, Danielle Centoni, and Li Agen and to the genius team at Artisan. Huge affection and gratitude to our wise editor, Ann Bramson, who managed to gracefully wrangle us into making the best book we could. And thanks to Joshua McFadden for your infectious enthusiasm, for lots of pink wine, and for teaching me things about cooking that I thought I already knew. —Martha Holmberg

  Index

  Note: Page numbers have been removed from the index for this electronic edition. To locate any of the following terms, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.

  A | B | C | D | E | F | G

  H | K | L | M | N | O | P

  R | S | T | V | W | Y | Z

  A

  almonds:

  Brined and Roasted Almonds

  Burnt Carrots with Honey, Black Pepper, Butter, and Almonds

  Celery Root with Brown Butter, Oranges, Dates, and Almonds

  Celery Salad with Dates, Almonds, and Parmigiano

  Couscous with English Peas, Apricots, and Lamb Meatballs

  Freekeh, Mushrooms, Turnips, and Almonds

  Grilled Radishes with Dates, Apples, and Radish Tops

  Raw Artichoke Salad with Herbs, Almonds, and Parmigiano

  Raw “Couscous” Cauliflower with Almonds, Dried Cherries, and Sumac

  Roasted Fennel with Apples, Taleggio Cheese, and Almonds

  anchovies:

  Broccoli Rabe, Mozzarella, Anchovy, and Spicy Tomato

  Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette

  Celery Puntarelle-Style

  Grated Carrot Salad with Grilled Scallions, Walnuts, and Burrata

  Leeks with Anchovy and Soft-Boiled Eggs

  Raw Brussels Sprouts with Lemon, Anchovy, Walnuts, and Pecorino

  salt-packed, prepping

  appetizers. See also toasts

  Battered and Fried Cabbage with Crispy Seeds and Lemon

  Carta di Musica with Roasted Eggplant Spread, Herbs, and Ricotta Salata

  Charred Broccoli with Tonnato, Pecorino, Lemon, and Chiles

  Crispy Mushrooms with Green Herb Mayonnaise

  Crispy Sugar Snap Peas with Tonnato and Lemon

  Delicata Squash “Donuts” with Pumpkin Seeds and Honey

  Fontina-Stuffed Arancini

  Fried Stuffed Zucchini Flowers, Zucchini Jojos, and Zucchini Pickles

  Grilled Artichokes with Artichoke-Parmigiano Dip

  made with asparagus frittata

  Rainbow Chard with Garlic and Jalapeños

  Shaved Collard Greens with Cashews and Pickled Peppers

  shell bean dip, preparing

  apples:

  Celery, Apple, and Peanut Salad

  Grilled Radishes with Dates, Apples, and Radish Tops

  Roasted Fennel with Apples, Taleggio Cheese, and Almonds

  Smashed Rutabaga with Apples and Ham

  apricots:

  Couscous with English Peas, Apricots, and Lamb Meatballs

  Cucumbers, Celery, Apricots, and Pistachios

  Farro and Roasted Carrot Salad with Apricots, Pistachios, and Whipped Feta

  artichokes:

  Artichoke and Farro Salad with Salami and Herbs

  Artichoke Mayonnaise

  baby, about

  cup-shaped base of

  early spring crop

  fall crop

  Grilled Artichokes with Artichoke-Parmigiano Dip

  “heart” of (center portion)

  Raw Artichoke Salad with Herbs, Almonds, and Parmigiano

  storing

  trimming leaves from

  varieties of

  arugula:

  Bitter Greens Salad with Melted Cheese

  Kohlrabi with Citrus, Arugula, Poppy Seeds, and Crème Fraîche

  Potato and Roasted Cauliflower Salad with Olives, Feta, and Arugula

  Sautéed Corn Four Ways

  String Beans, Pickled Beans, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Olives on Tonnato

  Tomato Soup with Arugula, Torn Croutons, and Pecorino

  asparagus:

  Asparagus, Garlic Chives, and Pea Shoots, with or without an Egg

  Asparagus, Nettle, and Green Garlic Frittata

  choosing

  cooking methods

  flavor of

  Grilled Asparagus with Fava Beans and Walnuts

  hot brine pickling

  prepping

  Raw Asparagus Salad with Breadcrumbs, Walnuts, and Mint

  slicing thinly

  storing

  Vignole

  Ava Gene’s (Portland, OR)

  avocados:

  Grilled Green Tomatoes with Avocado, Feta, and Watermelon

  Pan-Roasted Carrots with Carrot-Top Salsa Verde, Avocado, and Seared Squid

  Roasted Beets, Avocado, and Sunflower Seeds

  Ayers Creek Farm (Oregon)

  B

  bacon. See pancetta

  basil:

  Chilled Seafood Salad with Fennel, Radish, Basil, and Crème Fraîche

  Farro with Tomatoes, Raw Corn, Mint, Basil, and Scallions

  Fava and Pistachio Pesto on Pasta

  Grilled Wax and Green Beans with Tomatoes, Basil, and Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce

  Spaghetti with Small Tomatoes, Garlic, Basil, and Chiles

  Squash Ribbons with Tomatoes, Peanuts, Basil, Mint, and Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce

  Sugar Snap Peas with Pickled Cherries and Peanuts

  Batter for Fried Vegetables

  beans. See beans (dried); fava beans; shell beans; string beans

  beans (dried):

 
about

  adding acidic ingredients to

  adding white beans to tomato soup

  Beans and Pasta

  Beans on Toast

  black turtle, about

  borlotti, about

  buying

  chickpeas, about

  cooking liquid, uses for

  Crunchy Mixed-Bean Salad with Celery and Tarragon

  fava, about

  Israeli-Spiced Tomatoes, Yogurt Sauce, and Chickpeas

  Perfect Shell Beans

  Risotto with Shell Beans, Sausage, and Bitter Greens

  soaking and cooking

  storing

  using in place of fresh shell beans

  beef:

  Braised Beef with Lots of Onions

  “Chinese” Beef and Broccoli

  Grilled Carrots, Steak, and Red Onion with Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce

  pot roast, topping with peperonata

  Pumpkin Bolognese

  resting before serving

  Sautéed Mushrooms and Mussels in Cream on Sliced Steak

  topping with eggplant and salsa verde

  beet greens:

  Roasted Beets, Avocado, and Sunflower Seeds

  serving and cooking

  using in place of Swiss chard

  beets (early season):

  about

  Beet Slaw with Pistachios and Raisins

  cold brine pickling

  cooking methods

  peeling, note about

  raw, flavor of

  Roasted Beets, Avocado, and Sunflower Seeds

  beets (late season):

  about

  Roasted and Smashed Beets with Spiced Green Sauce

  Roasted Beet, Citrus, and Olive Salad with Horseradish

  Roasted Beets and Carrots with Couscous, Sunflower Seeds, Citrus, and Feta

  storing

  black peppercorns:

  Cacio e Pepe Butter

  grinding

  storing

  Bottarga, Double-Mushroom Toast with

  Boutard, Anthony

  Boutard, Carol

  Brandade, Kohlrabi

  breadcrumbs:

  Dried Breadcrumbs

  Fontina-Stuffed Arancini

  Grilled Asparagus with Fava Beans and Walnuts

  Raw Asparagus Salad with Breadcrumbs, Walnuts, and Mint

  Roasted Turnips with Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette and Breadcrumbs

  breads. See also breadcrumbs; croutons; sandwiches; toasts

  Carta di Musica with Roasted Eggplant Spread, Herbs, and Ricotta Salata

  “Herbed” Butter with Warm Bread

  Slightly Tangy Flatbreads

  Whole-Grain Carta di Musica

  broccoli:

  about

  best cooking methods

  Charred Broccoli with Tonnato, Pecorino, Lemon, and Chiles

  “Chinese” Beef and Broccoli

  choosing

  Pan-Steamed Broccoli with Sesame Seeds, Parmigiano, and Lemon

  Rigatoni with Broccoli and Sausage

  Smashed Broccoli and Potatoes with Parmigiano and Lemon

  Spigarello, about

  stems, flavor in

  storing

  trimming

  broccoli rabe:

  Broccoli Rabe, Mozzarella, Anchovy, and Spicy Tomato

  in pan-steamed broccoli recipe

  Brussels sprouts:

  about

  Brussels Sprouts with Pickled Carrots, Walnuts, Cilantro, and Citrus Vinaigrette

  Gratin of Brussels Sprouts, Gruyère, and Prosciutto

  hot brine pickling

  raw, slicing thin

  Raw Brussels Sprouts with Lemon, Anchovy, Walnuts, and Pecorino

  Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta Vinaigrette

  on stalks, at farmers’ markets

  trimming

  butter:

  Alla Diavola Butter

  Brown Butter

  Cacio e Pepe Butter

  Double-Mushroom Butter

  flavored, storing and using

  Green Garlic Butter

  “Herbed” Butter with Warm Bread

  Mushroom Butter

  Pan-Roasted New Potatoes with Butters

  Pickled Vegetable Butter

  Raw Winter Squash with Brown Butter, Pecans, and Currants

  Roasted Radishes with Brown Butter, Chile, and Honey

  Watercress Butter

  C

  cabbage:

  about

  Asian varieties

  Battered and Fried Cabbage with Crispy Seeds and Lemon

  Cabbage and Mushroom Hand Pies

  choosing and storing

  Comforting Cabbage, Onion, and Farro Soup

  cooking methods

  European varieties

  flavor, after winter frost

  raw, serving ideas

  Roasted Cabbage with Walnuts, Parmigiano, and Saba

  round, coring

  Shaved Collard Greens with Cashews and Pickled Peppers

  Steamed Cabbage with Lemon, Butter, and Thyme

  Cake, Loaf, Parsnip, Date, and Hazelnut, with Meyer Lemon Glaze

  capers:

  about

  buying and storing

  Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette

  Grilled or Roasted Summer Squash with Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette

  Roasted Mushrooms, Gremolata-Style

  Roasted Turnips with Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette and Breadcrumbs

  carrot greens:

  buying and storing

  Pan-Roasted Carrots with Carrot-Top Salsa Verde, Avocado, and Seared Squid

  carrots (early season):

  adding to peas and potatoes recipe

  Brussels Sprouts with Pickled Carrots, Walnuts, Cilantro, and Citrus Vinaigrette

  buying and storing

  Carrots, Dates, and Olives with Crème Fraîche and Frico

  cold brine pickling

  English Pea and Pickled Carrot Salsa Verde

  Grilled Carrots, Steak, and Red Onion with Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce

  Lamb Ragu with Carrots and Green Garlic

  Pan-Roasted Carrots with Carrot-Top Salsa Verde, Avocado, and Seared Squid

  raw, ideas for

  slicing on sharp angle

  carrots (late season):

  about

  best uses for

  Brussels Sprouts with Pickled Carrots, Walnuts, Cilantro, and Citrus Vinaigrette

  Burnt Carrots with Honey, Black Pepper, Butter, and Almonds

  Carrot Pie in a Pecan Crust

  cold brine pickling

  English Pea and Pickled Carrot Salsa Verde

  Farro and Roasted Carrot Salad with Apricots, Pistachios, and Whipped Feta

  Grated Carrot Salad with Grilled Scallions, Walnuts, and Burrata

  Roasted Beets and Carrots with Couscous, Sunflower Seeds, Citrus, and Feta

  Cashews and Pickled Peppers, Shaved Collard Greens with

  cassoulet, quick, preparing

  cauliflower:

  about

  Baked Cauliflower with Salt Cod, Currants, and Pine Nuts

  Cauliflower Ragu

  Cauliflower Steak with Provolone and Pickled Peppers

  choosing

  cold brine pickling

  Fried Cauliflower with Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce

  Potato and Roasted Cauliflower Salad with Olives, Feta, and Arugula

  preparing

  Raw “Couscous” Cauliflower with Almonds, Dried Cherries, and Sumac

  Roasted Cauliflower, Plums, Sesame Seeds, and Yogurt


  Romanesco, about

  storing

  celery:

  blanching, while growing

  braised

  Braised Celery and Radicchio Salad with Perfect Roast Chicken

  buying and storing

  Celery, Apple, and Peanut Salad

  Celery, Sausage, Provolone, Olives, and Pickled Peppers

  Celery Gratin

  Celery Puntarelle-Style

  Celery Salad with Dates, Almonds, and Parmigiano

  cold brine pickling

  Cream of Celery Soup

  Crunchy Mixed-Bean Salad with Celery and Tarragon

  Cucumbers, Celery, Apricots, and Pistachios

  leaves, cooking with

  pale tender inner stalks, about

  Parsnip Soup with Pine Nut, Currant, and Celery Leaf Relish

  slicing on sharp angle

  celery root:

  about

  Celery Root, Cracked Wheat, and Every-Fall-Vegetable-You-Can-Find Chowder

  Celery Root with Brown Butter, Oranges, Dates, and Almonds

  choosing

  cooking methods

  Fried Celery Root Steaks with Citrus and Horseradish

  Mashed Celery Root with Garlic and Thyme

  preparing

  Chang, David

  cheese:

  adding to polenta

  Agrodolce Ramps on Grilled Bread

  Bitter Greens Salad with Melted Cheese

  Broccoli Rabe, Mozzarella, Anchovy, and Spicy Tomato

  Cacio e Pepe Butter

  Carrots, Dates, and Olives with Crème Fraîche and Frico

  Carta di Musica with Roasted Eggplant Spread, Herbs, and Ricotta Salata

  Cauliflower Ragu

  Cauliflower Steak with Provolone and Pickled Peppers

  Celery, Sausage, Provolone, Olives, and Pickled Peppers

  Celery Gratin

  Celery Puntarelle-Style

  Celery Salad with Dates, Almonds, and Parmigiano

  Charred Broccoli with Tonnato, Pecorino, Lemon, and Chiles

  Cheese-Stuffed and Pan-Fried Sweet Peppers

  Comforting Cabbage, Onion, and Farro Soup

  Corn and Tomato Salad with Torn Croutons

  Crispy Mushrooms with Green Herb Mayonnaise

  Crispy Sugar Snap Peas with Tonnato and Lemon

  Delicata Squash “Donuts” with Pumpkin Seeds and Honey

  English Pea Toast

  Farro and Roasted Carrot Salad with Apricots, Pistachios, and Whipped Feta

  Fava, Farro, Pecorino, and Salami Salad

  Fava and Pistachio Pesto on Pasta

 

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