Six Seasons

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Six Seasons Page 37

by Joshua McFadden

“Herbed” Butter with Warm Bread

  Lemon Cucumbers with Onion, Papalo, and Lots of Herbs

  Swiss Chard, Leek, Herb, and Ricotta Crostata

  Turnip Salad with Yogurt, Herbs, and Poppy Seeds

  horseradish:

  Fried Celery Root Steaks with Citrus and Horseradish

  Roasted Beet, Citrus, and Olive Salad with Horseradish

  K

  kale:

  about

  Celery Root, Cracked Wheat, and Every-Fall-Vegetable-You-Can-Find Chowder

  Colcannon with Watercress Butter

  curly, about

  Kale and Mushroom Lasagna

  The Kale Salad That Started It All

  Kale Sauce with Any Noodle

  lacinato, about

  preparing

  raw, freezing before cooking

  raw, serving

  Russian, about

  storing

  substituting collards for

  Wilted Kale, Alone or Pickled on Cheese Toast

  kohlrabi:

  about

  choosing

  Kohlrabi Brandade

  Kohlrabi with Citrus, Arugula, Poppy Seeds, and Crème Fraîche

  preparing

  L

  lamb:

  Braised Eggplant and Lamb with Yogurt and Spiced Green Sauce

  Couscous with English Peas, Apricots, and Lamb Meatballs

  Lamb Ragu with Carrots and Green Garlic

  topping with eggplant and salsa verde

  Lasagna, Kale and Mushroom

  leeks:

  Colcannon with Watercress Butter

  Leeks with Anchovy and Soft-Boiled Eggs

  Swiss Chard, Leek, Herb, and Ricotta Crostata

  Turnip, Leek, and Potato Soup

  Winter Squash and Leek Risotto

  lemons:

  Citrus Vinaigrette

  Crispy Sugar Snap Peas with Tonnato and Lemon

  Lemon Cream

  Parsnip, Date, and Hazelnut Loaf Cake with Meyer Lemon Glaze

  Roasted Mushrooms, Gremolata-Style

  Smashed New Potatoes with Lemon and Lots of Olive Oil

  Steamed Cabbage with Lemon, Butter, and Thyme

  lettuce:

  Butter Lettuce with New Potatoes, Eggs, and Pancetta Vinaigrette

  buying and storing

  Little Gems with Lemon Cream, Spring Onion, Radish, and Mint

  mixing and matching, for salads

  washing and drying

  Lupa (New York City)

  M

  main dishes (eggs):

  Asparagus, Garlic Chives, and Pea Shoots, with or without an Egg

  Asparagus, Nettle, and Green Garlic Frittata

  Butter Lettuce with New Potatoes, Eggs, and Pancetta Vinaigrette

  Fava Beans, Cilantro, New Potatoes, and Baked Eggs

  Leeks with Anchovy and Soft-Boiled Eggs

  leftover frittata salad

  Red Pepper, Potato, and Prosciutto Frittata Topped with Ricotta

  main dishes (meat and poultry):

  Braised Beef with Lots of Onions

  Braised Celery and Radicchio Salad with Perfect Roast Chicken

  Braised Eggplant and Lamb with Yogurt and Spiced Green Sauce

  “Chinese” Beef and Broccoli

  Couscous with English Peas, Apricots, and Lamb Meatballs

  Grilled Carrots, Steak, and Red Onion with Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce

  Lamb Ragu with Carrots and Green Garlic

  Roasted Fennel with Apples, Taleggio Cheese, and Almonds

  Sautéed Mushrooms and Mussels in Cream on Sliced Steak

  main dishes (miscellaneous):

  Broccoli Rabe, Mozzarella, Anchovy, and Spicy Tomato

  Cabbage and Mushroom Hand Pies

  Swiss Chard, Leek, Herb, and Ricotta Crostata

  Vignole

  main dishes (pasta and risotto):

  Beans and Pasta

  Cauliflower Ragu

  Fava and Pistachio Pesto on Pasta

  Kale and Mushroom Lasagna

  Kale Sauce with Any Noodle

  Mushrooms, Sausage, and Rigatoni

  Pasta alla Gricia with Slivered Sugar Snap Peas

  Pasta Carbonara with English Peas

  Pumpkin Bolognese

  Rigatoni and Eggplant alla Norma

  Rigatoni with Broccoli and Sausage

  Risotto with Shell Beans, Sausage, and Bitter Greens

  Spaghetti with Small Tomatoes, Garlic, Basil, and Chiles

  Spaghetti with Swiss Chard, Pine Nuts, Raisins, and Chiles

  Winter Squash and Leek Risotto

  main dishes (seafood):

  Baked Cauliflower with Salt Cod, Currants, and Pine Nuts

  Chilled Seafood Salad with Fennel, Radish, Basil, and Crème Fraîche

  Fennel Two Ways with Mussels and Couscous

  Green Bean, Tuna, and Mushroom “Casserole”

  Pan-Roasted Carrots with Carrot-Top Salsa Verde, Avocado, and Seared Squid

  Radishes with Tonnato, Sunflower Seeds, and Lemon

  Sautéed Mushrooms and Mussels in Cream on Sliced Steak

  Squash and “Tuna Melt” Casserole

  String Beans, Pickled Beans, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Olives on Tonnato

  Sugar Snap Peas and New Potato Salad with Crumbled Egg and Sardines

  maple syrup:

  Grade B, choosing

  Rutabaga with Maple Syrup, Black Pepper, and Rosemary

  mayonnaise:

  Artichoke Mayonnaise

  Green Herb Mayonnaise

  Pickled Vegetable Mayonnaise

  meat. See beef; lamb; pork

  meatballs:

  adding preserved eggplant to

  Couscous with English Peas, Apricots, and Lamb Meatballs

  melon:

  Grilled Green Tomatoes with Avocado, Feta, and Watermelon

  Tomato, Melon, and Hot Chile Salad with Burrata

  mint:

  Couscous with English Peas, Apricots, and Lamb Meatballs

  Cucumbers, Scallions, Mint, and Dried Chiles

  English Pea and Pickled Carrot Salsa Verde

  English Peas with Prosciutto and New Potatoes

  English Pea Toast

  Farro with Tomatoes, Raw Corn, Mint, Basil, and Scallions

  Little Gems with Lemon Cream, Spring Onion, Radish, and Mint

  Radish and Mint Salsa Verde

  Radishes with Tonnato, Sunflower Seeds, and Lemon

  Raw Asparagus Salad with Breadcrumbs, Walnuts, and Mint

  Raw Corn with Walnuts, Mint, and Chiles

  Smashed Fava Beans, Pecorino, and Mint on Toast

  Squash Ribbons with Tomatoes, Peanuts, Basil, Mint, and Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce

  Momofuku (New York City)

  Morton, Frank

  Mr. Wilkinson’s Vegetables (Wilkinson)

  mushrooms:

  about

  best cooking methods

  Cabbage and Mushroom Hand Pies

  choosing and storing

  cleaning

  Crispy Mushrooms with Green Herb Mayonnaise

  Double-Mushroom Butter

  Double-Mushroom Toast with Bottarga

  duxelles, serving ideas

  Freekeh, Mushrooms, Turnips, and Almonds

  Green Bean, Tuna, and Mushroom “Casserole”

  Kale and Mushroom Lasagna

  morels, rinsing and drying

  Mushroom Butter

  Mushrooms, Sausage, and Rigatoni

  Roasted Mushrooms, Gremolata-Style

  Sautéed Mushrooms and Mussels in Cream on Slice
d Steak

  Shaved Collard Greens with Cashews and Pickled Peppers

  trimming

  “wild,” looking for

  mussels:

  Fennel Two Ways with Mussels and Couscous

  preparing for cooking

  Sautéed Mushrooms and Mussels in Cream on Sliced Steak

  mustard greens, adding to asparagus recipe

  N

  ’nduja:

  about

  Onions Three Ways, with ’Nduja on Grilled Bread

  Sweet and Hot Peppers, ’Nduja, and Melted Cheese

  Nettle, Asparagus, and Green Garlic Frittata

  nuts. See also almonds; hazelnuts; peanuts; pecans; pine nuts; pistachios; walnuts

  about

  roasting

  Shaved Collard Greens with Cashews and Pickled Peppers

  storing

  Toasted Nuts and Seeds

  O

  oil:

  made from toasted butternut squash seed

  olive, about

  olive, notable brands

  olives:

  about

  buying and storing

  Carrots, Dates, and Olives with Crème Fraîche and Frico

  Cauliflower Steak with Provolone and Pickled Peppers

  Celery, Sausage, Provolone, Olives, and Pickled Peppers

  Parsnips with Citrus and Olives

  Potato and Roasted Cauliflower Salad with Olives, Feta, and Arugula

  Roasted Beet, Citrus, and Olive Salad with Horseradish

  Sautéed Greens with Olives (Misticanza)

  String Beans, Pickled Beans, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Olives on Tonnato

  omelets, topping with peperonata

  onions (early season). See also leeks; scallions

  Agrodolce Ramps on Grilled Bread

  cooking

  Grilled Carrots, Steak, and Red Onion with Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce

  Little Gems with Lemon Cream, Spring Onion, Radish, and Mint

  Onions Three Ways, with ’Nduja on Grilled Bread

  ramps, about

  spring onions, about

  spring onions, cold brine pickling

  types of

  onions (storage):

  about

  Braised Beef with Lots of Onions

  choosing and storing

  Comforting Cabbage, Onion, and Farro Soup

  drying after harvesting

  Onion and Pancetta Tart

  Onion Bread Soup with Sausage

  red, about

  “sweet,” about

  white, about

  yellow, about

  oranges:

  Celery Root with Brown Butter, Oranges, Dates, and Almonds

  Citrus Vinaigrette

  Fried Celery Root Steaks with Citrus and Horseradish

  Kohlrabi with Citrus, Arugula, Poppy Seeds, and Crème Fraîche

  Parsnips with Citrus and Olives

  Roasted Beet, Citrus, and Olive Salad with Horseradish

  segmenting

  P

  Pancake, Fried Potato and Cheese

  pancetta:

  Butter Lettuce with New Potatoes, Eggs, and Pancetta Vinaigrette

  Onion and Pancetta Tart

  Pancetta Vinaigrette

  Pasta alla Gricia with Slivered Sugar Snap Peas

  Pasta Carbonara with English Peas

  Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta Vinaigrette

  Sautéed Corn Four Ways

  papalo:

  about

  Lemon Cucumbers with Onion, Papalo, and Lots of Herbs

  parsley:

  Caper-Raisin Vinaigrette

  Charred Scallion Salsa Verde

  Classic Salsa Verde

  English Pea and Pickled Carrot Salsa Verde

  Roasted Mushrooms, Gremolata-Style

  Spiced Green Sauce

  parsnips:

  about

  choosing and storing

  overwintered, flavor of

  Parsnip, Date, and Hazelnut Loaf Cake with Meyer Lemon Glaze

  Parsnip Soup with Pine Nut, Currant, and Celery Leaf Relish

  Parsnips with Citrus and Olives

  peel of, note about

  pasta. See also couscous

  about

  adding preserved eggplant to

  adding to peas and potatoes recipe

  Beans and Pasta

  Cauliflower Ragu

  cooking properly

  Kale and Mushroom Lasagna

  Kale Sauce with Any Noodle

  Lamb Ragu with Carrots and Green Garlic

  Mushrooms, Sausage, and Rigatoni

  Pasta alla Gricia with Slivered Sugar Snap Peas

  Pasta Carbonara with English Peas

  Pumpkin Bolognese

  Rigatoni and Eggplant alla Norma

  Rigatoni with Broccoli and Sausage

  Spaghetti with Small Tomatoes, Garlic, Basil, and Chiles

  Spaghetti with Swiss Chard, Pine Nuts, Raisins, and Chiles

  storing

  peanuts:

  Celery, Apple, and Peanut Salad

  Squash Ribbons with Tomatoes, Peanuts, Basil, Mint, and Spicy Fish-Sauce Sauce

  Sugar Snap Peas with Pickled Cherries and Peanuts

  peas (English):

  about

  adding to asparagus recipe

  boiling briefly

  Couscous with English Peas, Apricots, and Lamb Meatballs

  English Pea and Pickled Carrot Salsa Verde

  English Peas with Prosciutto and New Potatoes

  English Pea Toast

  Pasta Carbonara with English Peas

  selecting

  shucking

  peas (sugar snap):

  about

  adding to asparagus recipe

  Crispy Sugar Snap Peas with Tonnato and Lemon

  Pasta alla Gricia with Slivered Sugar Snap Peas

  serving

  slicing thinly

  storing

  Sugar Snap Peas and New Potato Salad with Crumbled Egg and Sardines

  Sugar Snap Peas with Mustard Seeds and Tarragon

  Sugar Snap Peas with Pickled Cherries and Peanuts

  tasting before buying

  Vignole

  pea shoots:

  Asparagus, Garlic Chives, and Pea Shoots, with or without an Egg

  harvesting

  serving ideas

  pecans:

  Carrot Pie in a Pecan Crust

  Pecan Dough

  Raw Winter Squash with Brown Butter, Pecans, and Currants

  Pépin, Jacques

  peppers. See also chiles

  about

  Cauliflower Steak with Provolone and Pickled Peppers

  Celery, Sausage, Provolone, Olives, and Pickled Peppers

  Cheese-Stuffed and Pan-Fried Sweet Peppers

  Peperonata

  Red Pepper, Potato, and Prosciutto Frittata Topped with Ricotta

  Roasted Pepper Panzanella

  roasted red, adding to tomato soup

  roasting and peeling

  Shaved Collard Greens with Cashews and Pickled Peppers

  slicing into thin strips

  storing

  Sweet and Hot Peppers, ’Nduja, and Melted Cheese

  varieties of

  Pesto, Fava and Pistachio, on Pasta

  Pickled Vegetable Butter

  Pickled Vegetable Mayonnaise

  pickles:

  about

  Basic Vegetable Pickle Brine

  cold brined, preparing

  hot brined, prep
aring

  Pickle Salsa Verde

  Pickles: Six Seasons in a Jar

  Preserved Eggplant

  refrigerator, storing

  storing

  pie and pastry doughs:

  Pecan Dough

  Very Flaky Pastry Dough

  pies and tarts:

  Cabbage and Mushroom Hand Pies

  Carrot Pie in a Pecan Crust

  Onion and Pancetta Tart

  Swiss Chard, Leek, Herb, and Ricotta Crostata

  pine nuts:

  Agrodolce Ramps on Grilled Bread

  Baked Cauliflower with Salt Cod, Currants, and Pine Nuts

  Parsnip Soup with Pine Nut, Currant, and Celery Leaf Relish

  Pine Nut Vinaigrette

  Roasted String Beans and Scallions with Pine Nut Vinaigrette

  Sautéed Corn Four Ways

  Spaghetti with Swiss Chard, Pine Nuts, Raisins, and Chiles

  pistachios:

  Beet Slaw with Pistachios and Raisins

  Corn and Tomato Salad with Torn Croutons

  Cucumbers, Celery, Apricots, and Pistachios

  Farro and Roasted Carrot Salad with Apricots, Pistachios, and Whipped Feta

  Fava and Pistachio Pesto on Pasta

  Pistachio Butter

  Plums, Roasted Cauliflower, Sesame Seeds, and Yogurt

  polenta:

  adding to collards and beans

  cooking and serving

  forming into cakes

  topping with peperonata

  poppy seeds:

  Battered and Fried Cabbage with Crispy Seeds and Lemon

  Kohlrabi with Citrus, Arugula, Poppy Seeds, and Crème Fraîche

  Turnip Salad with Yogurt, Herbs, and Poppy Seeds

  pork. See also ham; pancetta; sausages

  Pumpkin Bolognese

  potato chips, topping brandade with

  potatoes (early season):

  about

  Butter Lettuce with New Potatoes, Eggs, and Pancetta Vinaigrette

  cooked, adding dressing to

  cooking methods

  English Peas with Prosciutto and New Potatoes

  Fava Beans, Cilantro, New Potatoes, and Baked Eggs

  Pan-Roasted New Potatoes with Butters

  Potato and Roasted Cauliflower Salad with Olives, Feta, and Arugula

  Red Pepper, Potato, and Prosciutto Frittata Topped with Ricotta

  rinsing

  seasoning, for salads

  Smashed New Potatoes with Lemon and Lots of Olive Oil

  storing

  Sugar Snap Peas and New Potato Salad with Crumbled Egg and Sardines

  potatoes (late season):

  about

  adding to mashed celery root

  choosing

  Colcannon with Watercress Butter

  cooked, adding dressing to

  Crushed and Fried Potatoes with Crispy Herbs and Garlic

  Fried Potato and Cheese Pancake

  green traces on, removing

  Kohlrabi Brandade

 

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