by James Roman
Continue west on Sunset Boulevard. You’re now in the thickest of the old-time Sunset Strip, with billboards, fast-food, and congestion at all times.
6. Carney’s is a fast-food joint built inside a repurposed train car. Enormously popular and affordably priced, it’s open until 3 a.m. on weekends, and midnight during the week.
7. Continuing west, the Art Deco landmark on the left has had many names: The St. James Club, The Argyle; Marilyn Monroe’s former address is now the Sunset Tower Hotel, open to the public. The Tower Bar restaurant is an elegant nightspot frequented by Hollywood’s A-list.
In its tawdry past: Howard Hughes lived in the penthouse and kept apartments for his mistresses below. John Wayne kept a cow on its terrace. In 1944, Bugsy Siegel got kicked out for running a bookmaking operation from here. Past residents include: Quincy Jones, Zsa Zsa Gabor, Michael Caine, Truman Capote, Paulette Goddard, Clark Gable, and Errol Flynn.
IN THE MOVIES: Get Shorty (1995), The Italian Job (2003), The Player (1992).
8. Heading west, there are two legendary nightspots at the intersection of Olive Drive. On the right: The Comedy Club, where Jim Carrey, David Letterman, Howie Mandel and many others found fame. It was formerly Ciro’s, the Strip’s first glamorous nightclub, built when Hollywood’s early stars had money but not many places to frolic. Gossip columnists eavesdropped on revelers like Ronald Reagan, Judy Garland, Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner, Marilyn Monroe, Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz. Onstage, stars like Sammy Davis Jr. entertained their friends.
9. On the left is The House of Blues, the club owned by John Belushi and Dan Aykroyd, with guest artists each night. The Gospel Brunch packs them in every Sunday. Reservations are a must. www.houseofblues.com/losangeles
10. Across Olive Drive, those gigantic doors open on The Mondrian, the hotel developed by Ian Schrager, cofounder of New York’s Studio 54. The Mondrian’s Sky Bar is packed with hip, young professionals, and is a favorite among fashion models.
11. Cross the busy intersections at LaCienaga Boulevard and Alta Loma. Next on the right: Mel’s Drive-In, open 24 hours, is recognizable from films and TV shows. Formerly Ben Frank’s, this is one of the last authentic Googie structures in LA.
12. Leaving the honky-tonk section of the Strip, these next several blocks comprise Sunset Plaza, a collection of upscale boutiques and some of LA’s most splendid restaurants.
13. Eveleigh is one of Sunset Plaza’s most alluring restaurants, at 8752 Sunset Boulevard. For decades, actors have been partial owners in many West Hollywood restaurants, including Ryan Seacrest, Rob Lowe, Tori Spelling, Elton John, Ashton Kutcher, Sylvester Stallone and more.
Continuing west, exit Sunset Plaza and return to the Strip’s colorful past. The road makes a slight curve at Holloway Drive. The modern building on the left corner was the site of gangster Mickey Cohen’s storefronts for his bookmaking operation.
14. On the next block, also on the left, you’ll see The Viper Room, formerly owned by Johnny Depp. Actor River Phoenix died of a drug overdose here on October 31, 1993. Depp closed the club every year on that date until he finally sold his shares in 2004. In the 1940s, this was the Melody Room, an intimate jazz bar that was allegedly the site of illegal gambling, run by Mickey Cohen and Bugsy Siegel.
15. Coming up on the right, on the corner of Clark Street: that’s the Whisky a Go Go, 8901 Sunset Boulevard, the epicenter of the 1960s rock-and-roll scene on the Strip. Young women in miniskirts danced in cages: the original gogo dancers. The Doors, featuring Jim Morrison, was the house band. Everybody from Janis Joplin to Frank Zappa played here, loudly.
16. Approaching Hilldale Avenue, the shop across the street that occupies most of the block is publisher Larry Flynt’s contribution to the Strip: the Hustler retail store and coffee bar. Not to be upstaged by Hollywood stars, Flynt’s sidewalk is a tribute to porn stars; their handprints are preserved in plaques, including his own.
17. Crossing the intersection at Hammond Street, you’ll pass The Roxy, 9009 Sunset Boulevard, on the right. Bruce Springsteen gave his breakthrough performance here in 1975. Other major players here have included David Bowie, Neil Young, and Prince.
18. Continuing west, One Oak is a two-story dance club at 9039 Sunset Boulevard, where Kanye West, Katy Perry and friends are known to celebrate. It’s a popular place following events like the Golden Globe Awards, when celebrities descend en masse for private parties.
19. Across the street at 9130 Sunset Boulevard is the former office of Geffen Records. Owner David Geffen sold the building when he teamed with Steven Spielberg and Jeffrey Katzenberg to form Dreamworks SKG.
That’s the end of the Sunset Strip.
You just crossed Doheny Drive. You’re headed toward Doheny Road. Make sure you’re in the right lane. Sunset Boulevard curves to the left, but you don’t. We’re about to enter Beverly Hills. Drive straight ahead, past the triangular traffic island that leads to Doheny Road.
20. You’ll pass the high-rise Sierra Tower. Past and current residents include: Cher, Elton John, Sidney Poitier, Diahann Carroll, Evander Holyfield, Courtney Cox, Matthew Perry, Ozzie and Sharon Osbourne, and many more.
21. You’ve left West Hollywood. In Beverly Hills, for the rest of this adventure, all street signs are white. We’re heading to the Greystone Mansion. Drive to the intersection of Loma Vista Drive, then turn right. A short distance ahead, signs direct you to free parking at the Greystone Mansion. Turn left. (The gates close at 5 p.m.)
Park and follow the sidewalk that leads to this palatial courtyard. This is the home of Ned Doheny, scion of Edward L. Doheny, the wealthiest oilman in the world. Ned was shot to death here in 1929.
Today, the Doheny estate is owned by the City of Beverly Hills. It’s comprised of 18.3 acres, including unpaved bridle paths that are easy hikes. Explore the paths and the mansion. The place will seem familiar from films and television shows.
Then return to the car. Retrace your route to the park entrance, then turn right, back to Doheny Road. Turn right on Doheny Road and observe residential Beverly Hills. At the intersection of Schuyler Road, turn left (south). The tour heads downhill, back to Sunset Boulevard. Continue down Schuyler Road to Mountain Drive. Bear right. Mountain Drive curves, delivering you to the intersection of Sunset Boulevard. Turn right, onto Sunset Boulevard, continuing west.
You’ll pass mansions on this busy street. It’s the architecture that Billy Wilder had in mind when he made the film Sunset Boulevard. But today’s celebrities cannot live within view of the street, for the paparazzi watch their every move.
22. After passing Rexford Drive, stay in the right lane. You’re approaching the intersection of several streets. Bypass Beverly and Crescent drives in quick succession. Aim to turn right at the most distant option, farthest west. It’s the driveway to the famous Beverly Hills Hotel, one of the grandest inns on earth. Lovingly known as The Pink Palace, the hotel was built in 1912, before the city of Beverly Hills even existed.
There are two options for parking. The first (and easiest) option is to give your car to the valet for a small fee. Or drive past the valet, into the self-parking lot.
Follow the red carpet to the front door of the Beverly Hills Hotel, then step inside. Explore this five-star hotel. Our primary destination is the fabled Polo Lounge.
From the front entrance, bear to the left, past the concierge desk. Walk to the mahogany wall. Step inside the Polo Lounge. When movie moguls ran the studios, this restaurant was the center of power. Long before cellphones, Hollywood dealmakers could have hardwired phones brought to their tables. The indoor bar was a favorite meeting place for Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and other cronies. It’s one of the most cherished hideaways in all of LA.
“Hideaway” is a literal term at the Beverly Hills Hotel. There are 21 unique bungalows for privacy. Stroll outside (back into the lobby, then turn right) to explore. To avoid scandals in the twentieth century, movie studios rented bungalows for movie star trysts that had to stay out of the press. In
these bungalows, Katharine Hepburn and Spencer Tracy had a secret affair, and Carole Lombard dallied with Clark Gable. Elizabeth Taylor honeymooned here—more than once.
23. From the front entrance, walk back to the crosswalk at Sunset Boulevard. Wait for the light, then cross Sunset Boulevard to the park across the street. In 1926, popular vaudeville and movie star Will Rogers was named the “Honorary Mayor” of Beverly Hills. A generous philanthropist, years after his death, the park was renamed in his honor as the Will Rogers Memorial Park.
After your park visit, return to the car and exit the Beverly Hills Hotel.
You’ll be on the hotel’s western border. Turn left, head east for a short distance, and pass the entrance. Turn left on Crescent Drive, heading north (slightly uphill). On your left will be private entrances to the hotel’s bungalows.
24. Look to the right as you drive up the street. Here are the former residences of two major celebrities. 904 North Crescent Drive is the former home of actress Gloria Swanson.
25. Two doors away at 908 North Crescent Drive is the former home of Milton Berle, one of the pioneers of early television.
Continue up Crescent Drive. At the intersection of Lexington Road, continue straight. Crescent Drive curves, and you’ll see multi-million-dollar residences here. This is a sample of the sumptuous housing in Beverly Hills.
The alternative: these are public streets with sidewalks and free parking. Leave the car, then take a stroll on the tree-lined sidewalks, past Beverly Hills mansions.
This tour now heads south, to Rodeo Drive and the famous shopping district in downtown Beverly Hills. As Crescent Drive completes its arc, the street name changes to Oxford Way. Continue down the hill, heading south. The street name changes again shortly. Oxford Way merges with Hartford Way for one short block. Proceed straight ahead at the Sunset Boulevard intersection. This is the starting point for Rodeo Drive.
The area of Beverly Hills south of Sunset Boulevard is known as Beverly Flats (no joke!) to distinguish it as the shopping district. A few blocks ahead, the zoning changes, and there are no more residences.
Continue south on Rodeo Drive, crossing the intersection of Lomitas Avenue. In the days when the outer limits of Beverly Hills had no paved roads or water service, these centrally located residences were popular with early Hollywood stars.
26. 725 Rodeo Drive is the former home of Gene Kelly, who received an honorary Oscar in 1952 for his “versatility as an actor, singer, director and dancer, and specifically for brilliant achievements in the art of choreography on film.”
Continue south on Rodeo Drive. Santa Monica Boulevard is the shopping district’s northern boundary. The district is comprised of about 18 blocks, with Rodeo Drive in the center.
27. Looking east, this beautiful structure with the mosaic dome is Beverly Hills City Hall (at Santa Monica Boulevard and Rexford Drive.) It’s also the site of the Police Department, Fire Department and Public Library.
As you cross Santa Monica Boulevard, look for the turquoise signs. They indicate free parking provided by the City of Beverly Hills. You’ll find entrances mid-block. There’s one on almost every block within the shopping district.
From here, you’re on your own. Enjoy the restaurants, fashions, gifts, hotels, and window-shopping.
28. There’s a popular place for photos as you stroll down Rodeo Drive. Look for Via Rodeo, between Dayton Way and Wilshire Boulevard. Via Rodeo is a charming cobblestone cul-desac that leads to the Versace showroom and Tiffany & Co., among other shops.
29. Just south of Via Rodeo, the grand hotel on the corner of Rodeo Drive and Wilshire Boulevard is the Beverly Wilshire. Look familiar? It’s where Julia Roberts fell in love with Richard Gere in Pretty Woman (1990). Elvis Presley lived here for years when filming at Paramount. A decade later, John Lennon stayed here, too. Why? Because he heard that Elvis lived here!
30. In addition to restaurants and boutiques, consider a visit to the Paley Center for Media, formerly the Museum of Television and Radio, at 465 North Beverly Drive. With about 150,000 television shows and commercials, it’s the place for television research or reminiscence. Founded by William S. Paley, who built CBS Television, the Center is dedicated to the preservation of television programs as art, history, and a record of our culture.
31. The Church of the Good Shepherd, 501 North Bedford Drive, is the only Catholic Church in Beverly Hills, the place where Frank Sinatra and many other famous Catholics have been laid to rest.
SANTA MONICA AND VENICE BEACH DRIVING TOUR
Three unforgettable places are explored on this day by the ocean, all free (except for food and parking). We’re traveling from Pacific Palisades to Santa Monica to Venice. You’ll need a car to drive along the Pacific Coast, then walking shoes and sunscreen for garden paths, sandy beaches and a busy boardwalk.
SANTA MONICA
Santa Monica Pier
Santa Monica State Beach
Muscle Beach
VENICE BEACH
The Venice Canals
Mural of Abbot Kinney
Venice Boardwalk
Mural of Jim Morrison
Mural, Homage to A Starry Night
START:
Santa Monica Pier
END:
Wave Crest Avenue
TOUR TIME:
About 3 hours
CHAPTERS:
7, 9, 11, 14, 20
Route 66 was the first U.S. Highway to connect Chicago to the Pacific Ocean. For much of the twentieth century, locals called it the Main Street of America, the road that migrant workers followed as they populated the West. It all ended here, at Santa Monica Pier.
1. Santa Monica Pier
Whether you’re parked to the north or south, you can’t miss the sidewalks leading to the Santa Monica Pier. Your destination is the wooden pier, built in 1909.
Today you’ll find restaurants and rides. The Santa Monica Looff Hippodrome houses one of America’s oldest carousels, built in 1922, now a National Landmark.
Exit the Pier on the south side (toward parking lots 3 and 4) for a stroll on the sand and the paths.
2. Santa Monica State Beach
Paths for bicycles and pedestrians weave along the coastline. Take a stroll where palm trees meet the Pacific sands. You’ll pass volleyball courts, beach cafés, checkerboards, and …
3. Muscle Beach
Created in the 1930s as a WPA project, then rededicated by the City of Santa Monica in 1989, this was the workout area for famed body builders Jack LaLanne and Joe Gold, among others.
Provided by the City of Santa Monica, the equipment is free to use. Try out the gymnastics equipment, the soft lawn for acrobats, calisthenics bars, and the tight-rope.
Return to the car to leave the City of Santa Monica by traveling south, crossing back into LA in the neighborhood called Venice. We’ll get there via Main Street in Santa Monica.
If you’re parked in Lots 3 or 4 (south of the Pier), drive two blocks east, away from the ocean. When you reach Main Street, turn right, heading south.
If you’re parked in Lots 1 or 2 (north of the Pier), follow the Exit signs; you’ll land on Pacific Coast Highway heading south. Bear right. Avoid the traffic heading into the tunnel and the freeway beyond. Drive up the surface road ramp to the right. It’s called Moomat Ahiko Way. (You’ll see the sign overhead.) Turn right onto Ocean Avenue. Continue on for almost a half-mile. At the intersection of Pico Boulevard, turn left, east, away from the ocean. Travel for one block, get in the right lane, and turn right. Now you’re on Main Street.
The streets are lined with one-of-a-kind shops and restaurants. Zuma Jay, the proprietor of The Boarding House, where Hollywood’s coolest kids get their surfboards and wetsuits, was elected to the City Council in Malibu in 2008. After one term, he gave it up to return to the boards and the business he loves.
Continue south on Main Street for almost two miles. The street changes from Main Street in Santa Monica to Main Street in Venice.
Strai
ght ahead, you approach a traffic circle. Drive around 3/4 of the traffic circle to Grand Boulevard. Stay in the right lane. (Don’t be confused by signs pointing to South Venice Boulevard. We’re heading to North Venice Boulevard.)
Drive for three blocks (past Andalusia Avenue; that’s your marker). When you come to this intersection, turn right, and follow the curve onto North Venice Boulevard. That turn reverses your direction; you’re now heading directly west toward the Pacific Ocean.
There’s a parking lot on your left as you approach Pacific Avenue. Park here, or continue straight, across Pacific Avenue. There’s indoor parking on the left, closer to the beach. If you’re lucky, you may find parallel parking on either side of this one-way street.
Welcome to Venice, originally developed by Abbot Kinney, who was so inspired by the canals in Venice, Italy, that he built a community connected by a network of canals. To visit the canals, walk south on Pacific Avenue, then turn left onto South Venice Boulevard. Walk east for a few paces and you’ll find an unforgettable oasis.