CHAPTER XIX
PARIS AND THE WEDDING
Friday morning, Alfonso and Leo were missed at the table, and during theday as guides. Early every day while in Paris, Alfonso had bouquets offresh flowers sent to the rooms of his mother, sisters, and May Ingram.After his departure the flowers did not come, so Gertrude and May beforebreakfast walked down the boulevard to the flower show, near theMadeleine, where twice a week are gathered many flower carts in charge ofcourteous peasant women. The flowers of Paris are usually cheap. A franc,eighteen cents, buys a bunch of pansies, or roses in bud or full bloom,or marguerites. The latter are similar to the English ox-eyed daisy, afavorite flower with the French, also with Gertrude, who often pinned abunch on May Ingram. In mid-winter Parisian gardeners delight in forcingthousands of white lilac blossoms, which are sold in European capitalsfor holiday gifts.
Gertrude and May hurried back to the hotel as happy as the birds in thetrees of the boulevard. When Gertrude reached her mother, a telegram wasgiven her from George which read:
City of Brussels.
_Gertrude_,--
We expect to arrive in Paris Saturday evening 6 o'clock. Alfonso and Leo here. All well. Grand trip. Love to all.
George.
Mrs. Harris and her young ladies planned to give most of the day to thepurchase of Gertrude's trousseau and other needed articles. May Ingramthought it was "just lovely" to be with Gertrude in Paris, and help herselect the wedding outfit. Earlier than usual on Friday morning theHarrises left the hotel. All four women were somewhat excited, as Mrs.Harris and Gertrude led the way, Lucille and May following, to M. Worth'sestablishment, located at Rue de la Paix 7.
Lucille said, "It is strange indeed that, in view of the French ridiculemade of the English on account of their lack of taste in dress, the bestdressmakers in Paris should be Englishmen."
Chief among all the Parisian dressmakers is Charles Frederick Worth, whowas born in 1825, at Bourne, Lincolnshire. He came to Paris in 1858, andopened business with fifty employees combining the selling of fine dressmaterial and the making of it. Worth now employs twelve hundred persons,and turns out annually over six thousand dresses and nearly four thousandcloaks; his sons ably assist him.
Rare fabrics and designs in silk and other choice material are woven, andartistic ornaments are made especially for M. Worth. Paris, as the centerof fashion, is greatly indebted to him, who gained in his line world-widefame, and for nearly half a century he has been universally recognized byhis competitors and the fair sex as master of his art. Kingdoms, empires,republics, and cabinets in swift succession followed each other, but theestablishment of M. Worth maintained its proud position against allchanges and rivals. He was helped to the highest pedestal of dictatorof fashions by Mme. de Pourtales and Princess Pauline Metternich, bothof whom possessed a keen sense of the fitness of texture, color, andcut, and with delicate hands could tone and modify till perfection wasreached. The former introduced M. Worth to Empress Eugenie, for whom,and for the ladies of whose court, he designed state, dinner, and fancycostumes.
That M. Worth possessed rare artistic taste aside from dressmaking isevidenced in the beauty of his rural home at Suresnes on the Seine, sevenand a half miles from Paris. It is a superb work of harmony and is likea charming mosaic, every piece fitting into every other piece. He washis own architect, designer, upholsterer, and gardener. His villa liesbeneath Mt. Valerien, one of the finest sites near Paris, and the outlookon the Seine, the Bois de Boulogne, and Paris, is a dream of beauty.
Hurriedly passing down the Rue de la Paix, the stately Column Vendome inthe vista, the Harris party entered M. Worth's establishment, to whichwomen, from actress to empress, make pilgrimages from the end of theworld.
What a medley of people were already assembled! English duchesses,Russian princesses, Austrians, Spanish and Levantine aristocracy; wivesand daughters of American railroad kings, of oil magnates, and of coalbarons; brunette beauties from India, Japan, South America, and evenfair Australians, all unconsciously assuming an air of ecstasy as theyrevelled in the fabric and fashion of dress; and stalking among them,that presiding genius, M. Worth, who in his mitre-shaped cap of blackvelvet, and half mantle or robe, strikingly resembled the great painterHogarth.
Mrs. Harris sent forward her letter of introduction from her husband'sNew York banker, and soon she and her friends were ushered into thepresence of M. Worth himself. He seemed very gracious, asking aboutseveral good friends of his in America, and added, "Americans are my bestclients, though we dispatch dresses to all parts of the world."
Gertrude inquired as to the origin of fashion. M. Worth answeredcautiously, "When new fabrics or designs of material are invented, somerequire a severe style, and some are adapted for draperies, puffings,etc., and then the stage has great influence over fashion."
May Ingram said, "Mr. Worth, how do you arrange designs?" He answered,"All my models are first made in black and white muslin, and then copiedin the material and coloring which I select. In a studio our models arephotographed for future reference."
Saying this, he excused himself to welcome new arrivals, first havingplaced the Harrises in charge of a competent assistant. M. Worth's manyrooms were plainly furnished with counters for measuring materials. Thefloors were covered with a gray and black carpet, in imitation of atiger's skin, with a scarlet border. Several young women dressed in thelatest style of morning, visiting, dinner, and reception toilets, passedup and down before clients to enable them to judge of effects. Mrs.Harris explained that one daughter desired, at an early date, a weddingdress and that the other members of her party wanted gowns.
Friday and Saturday were occupied at Worth's in selecting dresses, andelsewhere in search of gloves and other essentials. A delightful hour wasspent among the many makers of artificial flowers. Skilled fingers makefrom wire and silk stems and stamens and dies, shape leaves and petalswhich are darkened by a camel's hair pencil, or lightened by a drop ofwater. Capable botanists and chemists are employed, and nature herself isrivaled in delicate construction and fragrance even.
In their round of shopping, the Harrises saw an ideal robe being made foran American belle. It was composed entirely of flowers, a skirt of rosesof different tints, with a waist of lovely rose buds, and over all a veilwith crystal drops in imitation of the morning dew. "A gem of a dress forsome fairy," thought Lucille.
Promptly at six o'clock Gertrude and Lucille drove to the railwaystation, and welcomed back George and Colonel Harris, and after dinnerall went to the opera. Between the acts Gertrude and George told muchof their late experiences. George said that Colonel Harris had becomegreatly interested in their scheme to build in America an ideal plant andtown, and that he was anxious to return home as he felt that one's workmust be done early, as life was short at best.
Gertrude explained to George all that had been done in preparing for thewedding, and said that she would be ready soon, that her mother andLucille approved of their wedding trip of two weeks in Switzerland, andthen Gertrude added, "I shall be ready, George, when you are, to returnto America and to aid you all I can."
Colonel Harris suggested a ride to Versailles, and Monday morning at nineo'clock Gaze's coach and four drove to the Grand Hotel, and six outsideseats which had been reserved for the Harris party were filled. Thecoachman drove down the Avenue de l'Opera and into the Place duCarrousel, stopping a moment that all might admire the artistic pavilionsof the Louvre, and the statue to the memory of Leon Gambetta, "Father ofthe Republic." Thence they rode out of the Court of the Tuileries, acrossthe Place de la Concord, and down the charming Champs Elysees. On theleft stands the Palais de l'Industrie, where the salon or annualexhibition of modern paintings and sculptures occurs in May and June. Onthe right is the Palais de l'Elysee, the official residence of the Frenchpresident.
George recalled that in these gardens of Paris, in 1814, EmperorsAlexander and Francis, King Frederick III., and others sang a _Te Deum_,in thanksgiving for their great victory over Napoleon
I.; that herethe English, Prussian, and Russian troops bivouacked, and that in thespring of 1871, Emperor William and his brilliant staff led the Germantroops beneath the Arc de Triomphe, while the German bands played "DieWacht am Rhine."
The coach passed through the Bois de Boulogne, in sight of lovely lakes,quaint old windmills, and across famous Longchamps, where after theFranco-German War under a bright sky, in the presence of the Frenchpresident, his cabinet, the senate and chamber of deputies, in fulldress, and a million of enthusiastic citizens, Grevy and Gambettapresented several hundred silk banners to the French army. Thence thedrive was along the left bank of the river till the ruins of St. Cloudwere reached, where Napoleon III. Unwittingly signed his abdication whenhe declared war against Prussia.
Climbing the hills through fine old forests after fourteen miles oftravel southwest of Paris, the coach reached Versailles. Here thatmagnificent monarch, Louis XIV. lavished hundreds of millions onpalaces, parks, fountains, and statues, and here the Harrises studied thebrilliant pictorial history of France. In the Grand Gallery, whichcommands beautiful views of garden and water, are effective paintingsin the ceiling, which represent the splendid achievements of Louis XIV.In this same Hall of Glass, beneath Le Brun's color history of the defeatof the Germans by the French, occurred in 1871 a bit of fine poeticjustice, when King William of Prussia, with the consent of the GermanStates, was saluted as Emperor of reunited Germany. After visiting theGrand Trianon the home of Madame de Maintenon, the coach returned viaSevres, famous for its wonderful porcelain, and reached Paris at sunset.The day was one long to be remembered.
The Paris mornings were spent either in visits to the Louvre or indriving. George and Gertrude walked much in Paris. Monday morning allresolved to enjoy on foot the Boulevards from the Grand Hotel to thePlace de la Republique. It was a field-day for the women, for every shophad its strong temptation, and the world seemed on dress-parade.Boulevard des Italiens in Paris is the most frequented and fashionable.Here are located handsome hotels and cafes, and many of the choicest andmost expensive shops. Several of these were visited, and many presentswere sent back to the hotel for friends at home.
At noon the Harrises took a simple lunch at one of the popular Duvalrestaurants. While the ladies continued their purchases, Colonel Harrisand George visited the Bourse, or exchange, a noble building. Business atthis stock exchange opens at twelve o'clock and closes at three o'clock.The loud vociferations of brokers, the quick gestures of excitedspeculators, and the babel of tongues produced a deafening noise, likethat heard at the stock exchange in New York.
By appointment the ladies called at the exchange, and a coach took theparty to the Place de la Republique, where stands a superb statue of theRepublic, surrounded with seated figures of Liberty, Fraternity, andEquality. Colonel Harris had often noticed these remarkable words cutinto many of the public buildings of Paris, and he remarked that thelesson taught by them was as injurious as that taught in the Declarationof Independence, which declares, that "all men are created equal."
Along the broadest parts of some boulevards and in public parks manychairs are placed for hire. On all the boulevards are numerous pillars,and small glass stalls, called kiosques, where newspapers are sold. Thepillars and kiosques are covered with attractive advertisements. In thesekiosques are sold, usually by women and children, many of the 750 papersand periodicals of Paris. Fifty of these papers are political. The_Gazette_ is two hundred and sixty-four years old, established in 1631._Le Temps_, "The Times," an evening paper, is English-like, and widelyknown. _Le Journal des Debats_, "The Journal of Debate," appears incorrect and elegant language, and it usually discusses questions offoreign as well as of home politics. Papers called _Petite_, or "Little,"have an immense circulation. Over a half million copies of _Le PetiteJournal_ are sold daily. Frenchmen at home or abroad are not happywithout their _Figaro_, which is read for its news of amusements, spicygossip, and the odor of the boulevards. The sensitive and powerful pressof Paris has often provoked political changes and revolutions.
To study better the important revolution for liberty which occurred onthe ever memorable 14th of July, 1789, the Harrises drove along theboulevard till they approached the Bastille, formerly the site of acastle, or stronghold, used for a long time as a state prison for theconfinement of persons who fell victims to the caprice of the government.
The graceful bronze July Column is 154 feet in height, and itcommemorates the destruction of the Bastille, symbol of despotism. Astrong desire for independence raised the cry "Down with the Bastille,"and the advancing tide of revolution overcame the moats, the walls, theguns, and the garrison, and freedom was victorious. On the column thenames of the fallen "July Heroes" are emblazoned in gilded letters. Inlarge vaults beneath are buried the heroes of 1789, with the victims ofthe later revolution of 1848. The capital of the column is crowned withan artistic Genius of Liberty standing on a globe, and holding in onehand the broken chains of slavery, and in the other the torch ofenlightenment.
All the boulevards were crowded with artisans in blue blouses, hurryingto their homes, as the Harrises drove along the quays to Notre Dame. Theywere in time to witness the sun burnish with his golden rays the gracefulspire, the majestic tower, and elegant facade, and to enjoy the harmonyof its grand organ within. To know Notre Dame, founded seven centuriesago, is to learn well the history of Paris, and to study the monuments ofParis alone, is to acquire the history of France.
Every day some of the Harris party visited the vast Louvre, the mostimportant public building of Paris, both architecturally and on accountof its wonderful art treasures which are the most extensive and valuablein the world. Thus two weeks went swiftly by in sight-seeing, and inpreparation for the marriage.
The private parlors, banquet hall, and several rooms for guests of theGrand Hotel had been secured for Gertrude's wedding, which was to takeplace on George's birthday. Though superstition for ages had placedbirthdays under a ban, yet Gertrude herself preferred this day, and allconcurred. Beautiful presents had already arrived from America, andletters from schoolmates and friends, several of whom, however, had senttheir presents to Harrisville. Nearly a thousand invitations in all,mostly to friends in America, had been mailed, including a hundred tofriends traveling on the British Isles, and on the continent. May Ingramhad met in London Claude Searles, son of Hugh Searles, and a graduate ofOxford University. She had an invitation mailed to Claude, and hepromised to come.
Alfonso and Leo arrived from Holland the night before, and each broughtpaintings of their own skill as presents. Alfonso had done an exquisitefull-length portrait of Gertrude in white, the dress, the same that shewore at Smith College graduation. All wondered about Leo's gift. Gertrudeherself cut the strings, and pushed back the paper, while her sisterLucille looked first at her own beautiful likeness and then at Leo. Herface grew crimson, as she said, "Leo, this is just what I most wanted forGertrude. Thank you! Thank you!" and she came near kissing the handsomeartist.
The mother had bought a plentiful supply of those things which daughtersmost need. The father's gift was the promised check for $1000, and amysterious long blue envelope sealed, with the name "Mrs. GertrudeIngram" written on the outside. Underneath her name were the tantalizingwords, "To be opened when she reaches New York."
"Oh, I so wonder what is inside," said Gertrude.
May Ingram's gift was unique; a mahogany box, inlaid with the rareedelweiss, encasing a Swiss phonograph, that was adjusted to play "Elsa'sDream Song" from Lohengrin on Gertrude's marriage anniversary, till hergolden wedding should occur.
Next morning after the sun had gilded the domes and spires of Paris, theHarrises sat at breakfast in a private room, fragrant with fresh cutflowers. Gertrude wore at her throat her lover's gift, and she neverlooked prettier or happier. All the morning till 11 o'clock everybody wasbusy, when the ushers and friends began to arrive. Soon came the Americanambassador, his wife and children. At 11:45 a bishop of New York City,Claude Searles of London, and intimate frien
ds of the Harrises and GeorgeIngram followed, till the private parlors were full.
The orchestra of twenty pieces of Grand Opera House, stationed in thereception hall, played the "Largo" of Handel. In the third parlor fromthe ceiling were suspended ropes or garlands of smilax and bride's roses,which formed a dainty canopy. White satin ribbons festooned on two rowsof potted marguerites made a bridal pathway direct from the foot of thestairway to the dais beneath the canopy.
On the low platform stood the bishop and the manly bridegroom expectant,when a voice at the foot of the stairway, accompanied by threeinstruments, sang the Elsa's Dream Song. The wedding party camedownstairs as the orchestra played Wagner's Wedding March. The bride wasdressed in duchess satin of soft ivory tone, the bodice high and longsleeves, with trimming of jewelled point lace. The bridesmaids wore paleyellow cloth, with reveres and cuffs of daffodil yellow satin and whiteVenetian point. Mrs. Harris wore a gown of heliotrope brocaded silk,trimmed with rich lace and a bodice of velvet.
The wedding party took their places and Mme. Melba accompanied by piano,harp, and violin sang Gounod's "Ave Maria."
The bishop addressed a few earnest words to the couple before him, spokeof responsibilities and obligations, and then the formal questions ofmarriage, in distinct voice, were put to George and Gertrude.
Mr. and Mrs. George Ingram received hearty congratulations. The guestsretired to the banquet hall where breakfast was served. One table withmarguerites was reserved for bride and bridegroom, ushers, andbridesmaids. Before the breakfast was ended the bride and bridegroom hadescaped, but soon returned, the bride in a traveling gown of blue cloth.Volleys of rice followed the bridal pair, and more rice pelted thewindows of the coach as it drove to the express train which was to conveythe happy pair to Fontainebleau for a day, and thence into Switzerland.In the evening Colonel Harris entertained a large party of friends at thenew opera house. The Harrises next morning left for southern France.
Before the marriage day George and Gertrude had carefully provided inParis for the welfare of May Ingram whom both loved. And well they might,for May had a noble nature, and her music teachers in Boston, who hadexerted their best efforts in her behalf, believed that she possessedrare talents, which, if properly developed, would some day make herconspicuous in the American galaxy of primadonnas.
They had secured for May sunny rooms at a pension in the BoulevardHaussmann, where a motherly French woman resided with her two daughters.In beautiful Paris, May Ingram was to live and study, hoping to realizethe dreams of her childhood, a first rank in grand opera.
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