by Samin Nosrat
• To make Mint Salsa Verde, substitute 2 tablespoons finely chopped mint for half of the parsley.
Fried Sage Salsa Verde
Makes 1 scant cup
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Basic Salsa Verde
24 sage leaves
About 2 cups neutral-tasting oil for frying
Follow the instructions on page 233 for frying sage.
Just before serving, crumble the sage into the salsa. Taste and adjust the salsa for salt and acid.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Serving suggestions: With Thanksgiving dinner; as a garnish for soup; with grilled, poached, roasted, or braised fish and meat; with grilled, roasted, or blanched vegetables; with Simmered Beans, Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken, Conveyor Belt Chicken, Spicy Brined Turkey Breast, Grilled Skirt Steak, or Rib Eye.
Classic French Herb Salsa
Makes 3/4 cup
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3 tablespoons finely diced shallot (about 1 medium shallot)
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons very finely chopped parsley leaves
1 tablespoon very finely chopped chervil
1 tablespoon very finely chopped chives
1 tablespoon very finely chopped basil
1 teaspoon very finely chopped tarragon
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
In a small bowl, combine the shallot and vinegar and let sit for 15 minutes to macerate (see page 118).
In a separate small bowl, combine parsley, chervil, chives, basil, tarragon, olive oil, and a generous pinch of salt.
Just before serving, use a slotted spoon to add the shallot (but not the vinegar, yet) to the herb oil. Stir, taste, and add vinegar as needed. Taste and adjust salt.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Serving suggestions: As a garnish for soup; with grilled, poached, roasted, or braised fish and meat; with grilled, roasted, or blanched vegetables; with Simmered Beans, Slow-Roasted Salmon, Tuna Confit, Finger-Lickin’ Pan-Fried Chicken, Chicken Confit.
Variations
• For a pickly pucker, add 1 tablespoon finely chopped cornichons.
• To lighten and brighten the salsa, substitute the vinegar for lemon juice and add 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest.
Mexican-ish Herb Salsa
Makes about 1 cup
* * *
3 tablespoons finely diced shallot (about 1 medium shallot)
3 tablespoons lime juice
1/4 cup very finely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
1 tablespoon minced jalapeño pepper
2 tablespoons very finely chopped scallions (green and white parts)
1/4 cup neutral-tasting oil
Salt
In a small bowl, combine the shallot and lime juice and let sit for 15 minutes to macerate (see page 118).
In a separate small bowl, combine the cilantro, jalapeño, scallions, oil, and a generous pinch of salt.
Just before serving, use a slotted spoon to add the shallot (but not the lime juice, yet) to the herb oil. Stir, taste, and add lime juice as needed. Taste and adjust salt.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Serving suggestions: As a garnish for soup; with grilled, poached, roasted, or braised fish and meat; with grilled, roasted, or blanched vegetables; with Silky Sweet Corn Soup, Simmered Beans, Slow-Roasted Salmon, fish tacos made with Beer Battered Fish, Tuna Confit, Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken, Conveyor Belt Chicken, Pork Braised with Chilies.
Variations
• For a little crunch, add 3 tablespoons pomegranate seeds, or finely diced cucumber, cabbage, or jicama.
• For a little sweetness, add 3 tablespoons finely diced mango or kumquats.
• For a little creaminess, add 3 tablespoons finely diced ripe avocado.
• To make Pumpkin Seed Salsa, add 3 tablespoons chopped, toasted pumpkin seeds.
Southeast Asian-ish Herb Salsa
Makes about 1 1/4 cups
* * *
3 tablespoons finely diced shallot (about 1 medium shallot)
3 tablespoons lime juice
1/4 cup very finely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
1 tablespoon minced jalapeño pepper
2 tablespoons very finely chopped scallion (green and white parts)
2 teaspoons finely grated ginger
5 tablespoons neutral-tasting oil
Salt
In a small bowl, combine the shallot and lime juice and let sit for 15 minutes to macerate (see page 118).
In a separate small bowl, combine the cilantro, jalapeño, scallion, ginger, oil, and a generous pinch of salt.
Just before serving, use a slotted spoon to add the shallot (but not the lime juice, yet) to the herb oil. Stir, taste, and add lime juice as needed. Taste and adjust salt.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Serving suggestions: As a garnish for soup or a marinade for meats; with grilled, poached, roasted, or braised fish and meat; with grilled, roasted, or blanched vegetables; with Slow-Roasted Salmon, Tuna Confit, Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken, Conveyor Belt Chicken, Glazed Five-Spice Chicken, Spicy Brined Pork Loin, Grilled Skirt or Rib Eye Steak.
Japanese-ish Herb Salsa
Makes about 1 cup
* * *
2 tablespoons very finely chopped parsley leaves
2 tablespoons very finely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
2 tablespoons very finely chopped scallion (green and white parts)
1 teaspoon finely grated ginger
1/4 cup neutral-tasting oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
3 tablespoons seasoned rice wine vinegar
Salt
In a small bowl, combine the parsley, cilantro, scallion, ginger, oil, and soy sauce. Just before serving, add the vinegar. Stir, taste, and adjust salt and acid as needed.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Serving suggestions: As a garnish for soup; with grilled, poached, roasted, or braised fish and meat; with grilled, roasted, or blanched vegetables; with Slow-Roasted Salmon, Tuna Confit, Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken, Conveyor Belt Chicken, Glazed Five-Spice Chicken, Spicy Brined Pork Loin, Grilled Skirt or Rib Eye Steak.
Meyer Lemon Salsa
Makes about 1 1/4 cups
* * *
1 small Meyer lemon
3 tablespoons finely diced shallot (about 1 medium shallot)
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/4 cup very finely chopped parsley leaves
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Quarter the lemon lengthwise, then remove the central membrane and the seeds. Finely dice the cleaned lemon, including the pith and peel. In a small bowl, combine the lemon bits and any juice you can manage to save with the shallot and vinegar. Let sit for 15 minutes to macerate (see page 118).
In a separate small bowl, combine the parsley, olive oil, and a generous pinch of salt.
To serve, use a slotted spoon to add the Meyer lemon and shallot mixture (but not the vinegar, yet) to the herb oil. Taste and adjust for salt and acid as needed.
Refrigerate, covered, for up to 3 days.
Serving suggestions: As a garnish for soup; with grilled, poached, roasted, or braised fish and meat; with grilled, roasted, or blanched vegetables. With Simmered Beans, Slow-Roasted Salmon, Tuna Confit, Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken, Chicken Confit, or Conveyor Belt Chicken.
Variations
• To make a Meyer Lemon and Olive Relish, reduce the salt and add 3 tablespoons chopped, pitted Picholine olives.
• To make a Meyer Lemon and Feta Relish, reduce the salt and add 3 tablespoons crumbled sheep’s milk feta cheese.
North African Charmoula
Makes about 1 cup
* * *
1/2 teaspoon cumin seed
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
/> 1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
1 garlic clove
1-inch knob of ginger, peeled and sliced
1/2 small jalapeño pepper, stemmed
4 teaspoons lime juice
Salt
Place the cumin seeds in a small, dry skillet and set over medium heat. Swirl the pan constantly to ensure even toasting. Toast until the first few seeds begin to pop and emit a savory aroma, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Immediately dump the seeds into the bowl of a mortar or a spice grinder. Grind finely with a pinch of salt.
Place the oil, toasted cumin, cilantro, garlic, ginger, jalapeño, lime juice, and 2 generous pinches of salt in a blender or food processor. Blend until no chunks or whole leaves remain. Taste and adjust salt and acid. Add water as needed to thin to desired consistency. Cover and refrigerate until serving.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Serving suggestions: Stir into Basic Mayonnaise for a perfect condiment for turkey sandwiches; reduce the oil to 1/4 cup and use as a marinade for fish or chicken; serve with rice, chickpeas, or couscous, braised lamb or chicken, grilled meats or fish. Drizzle onto an Avocado Salad or Carrot Soup; serve with Persian-ish Rice, Slow-Roasted Salmon, Tuna Confit, Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken, Conveyor Belt Chicken, Kufte Kebabs.
Indian Coconut-Cilantro Chutney
Makes about 1 cup
* * *
1 teaspoon cumin seed
2 tablespoons lime juice
1/2 cup fresh or frozen grated coconut
1 to 2 garlic cloves
1 cup cilantro leaves and tender stems (from about 1 bunch)
12 fresh mint leaves
1/2 jalapeño pepper, stemmed
3/4 teaspoon sugar
Salt
Place the cumin seeds in a small, dry skillet and set over medium heat. Swirl the pan constantly to ensure even toasting. Toast until the first few seeds begin to pop and emit a savory aroma, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Immediately dump the seeds into the bowl of a mortar or a spice grinder. Grind finely with a pinch of salt.
Pulse the lime juice, coconut, and garlic together in a blender or food processor for 2 minutes until no large chunks remain. Add the toasted cumin, cilantro, mint leaves, jalapeño, sugar, and a generous pinch of salt and continue blending for another 2 to 3 minutes, until no chunks or whole leaves remain. Taste and adjust salt and acid. Add water if needed to thin to a drizzle-able consistency. Cover and refrigerate until serving.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Serving suggestions: Simmered lentils, or as a marinade for fish or chicken. With Indian-Spiced Salmon, Tuna Confit, Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken, Indian-Spiced Fried Chicken, Conveyor Belt Chicken, Spicy Brined Turkey Breast, Kufte Kebabs.
Variation
• If you can’t find fresh or frozen coconut, pour 1 cup boiling water over 1/2 cup dried coconut and let sit for 15 minutes to rehydrate. Drain and continue as above.
Salmoriglio Sicilian Oregano Sauce
Makes about 1/2 cup
* * *
1/4 cup very finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons very finely chopped fresh oregano or marjoram or 1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 garlic clove, finely grated or pounded with a pinch of salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt
Combine the parsley, oregano, garlic, and olive oil in a small bowl with a generous pinch of salt. Just before serving, add the lemon juice. Stir, taste, and adjust for salt and acid. Serve immediately. Refrigerate, covered, for up to 3 days.
Serving suggestions: With grilled or roasted fish or meat; with grilled, roasted, or blanched vegetables; with Slow-Roasted Salmon, Tuna Confit, Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken.
Variation
• To make Argentinian Chimichurri sauce for spooning over grilled meats, add 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes and 1 to 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar to taste.
Yogurt Sauce
I grew up spooning yogurt on everything—including, embarrassingly, pasta!—not so much for its flavor, but because it was a handy way to cool down the steaming-hot food I usually couldn’t wait to eat. Eventually, I grew to love yogurt for its creaminess and acidity, and the way it complements rich and dry dishes equally well.
Serve these yogurt sauces alongside Indian-Spiced Salmon, Adas Polo, Grilled Artichokes, Persian Roast Chicken, or Persian-ish Rice. Or, bring them to the table as dips for crunchy raw vegetables or warm flatbread. I prefer to start with thick, drained yogurt such as lebne or Greek yogurt, but any plain yogurt will work.
Herbed Yogurt
Makes 1 3/4 cups
* * *
1 1/2 cups plain yogurt
1 garlic clove, finely grated or pounded with a pinch of salt
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
8 mint leaves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
In a medium bowl, combine the yogurt, garlic, parsley, cilantro, mint leaves, and olive oil with a generous pinch of salt. Stir, taste, and adjust seasoning with salt as needed. Cover and chill until serving.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Variations
• To make Indian Carrot Raita, omit the olive oil. Add 1/2 cup coarsely grated carrot and 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger to the yogurt. Melt 2 tablespoons ghee or neutral-tasting oil in a small frying pan over medium-high heat. Sizzle 1 teaspoon cumin seed, 1 teaspoon black mustard seed, and 1 teaspoon coriander seed for about 30 seconds, or until the first seeds begin to pop. Pour immediately into the yogurt mixture and stir to combine. Taste and adjust for salt. Cover and chill until serving.
Persian Herb and Cucumber Yogurt
Makes 2 cups
* * *
1/4 cup black or golden raisins
1 1/2 cups plain yogurt
1 Persian cucumber, peeled and finely diced
1/4 cup any combination finely chopped fresh mint leaves, dill, parsley, and cilantro
1 garlic clove, finely grated or pounded with a pinch of salt
1/4 cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
A generous pinch of salt
Optional: Dried rose petals for garnish
In a small bowl, submerge the raisins in boiling water. Let them sit for 15 minutes to rehydrate and plump up. Drain and place in a medium bowl. Add the yogurt, cucumber, herbs, garlic, walnuts, olive oil, and salt. Stir to combine, taste, and adjust salt as needed. Chill until serving. If desired, garnish with crumbled rose petals before serving.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Borani Esfenaj Persian Spinach Yogurt
Makes 2 1/4 cups
* * *
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 bunches spinach, trimmed and washed, or 1 1/2 pounds baby spinach, washed
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
1 to 2 garlic cloves, finely grated or pounded with a pinch of salt
1 1/2 cups plain yogurt
Salt
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
Heat a large frying pan over high heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil, and when shimmering, add the spinach and sauté until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Depending on the size of the pan, you may have to do it in two batches. Immediately remove the cooked spinach from pan and place in a single layer on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. This prevents the spinach from overcooking and discoloring.
When the spinach is cool enough to handle, squeeze all the water out with your hands, then chop it finely.
In a medium bowl, combine the spinach, cilantro, garlic, yogurt, and the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt and lemon juice. Stir, taste, and adjust salt and acid as needed.
Chill until serving.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Mast-o-Laboo Persian Beet Yogurt
Makes 2 cups
* * *
3 to 4 medium red or golden beets, trimmed
1 1/2 cups plain yogurt
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
Optional: 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh tarragon
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
1 to 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
Optional: Nigella (black cumin) seeds for garnish
Roast and peel the beets as directed on page 218. Allow to cool.
Coarsely grate the beets and stir into the yogurt. Add the mint, tarragon, if using, olive oil, salt, and 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar. Stir and taste. Adjust salt and acid as needed. Chill until serving. If desired, garnish with nigella seeds before serving.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Mayonnaise
There might not be a sauce more polarizing than mayonnaise, but I fall firmly in the camp of the devoted. And, as a teacher, I don’t think there’s a better way to illustrate the power of a little kitchen science than by making, breaking, and fixing a mayonnaise with my students. It’s like a little miracle, every time. Refer back to the walkthrough on page 86 for a refresher on all of the nuances of making and fixing a mayonnaise.