“General Bruce, if you would be kind enough to join us?” said Hinks, without giving the other two men so much as a glance.
“Thank you, Hinks,” said the General, heaving himself up from his chair and following the secretary slowly back into the committee room.
“Welcome, General Bruce,” said Sir Francis. “Do come and join us,” he added, ushering Bruce toward an empty chair.
“I am delighted to tell you,” said Sir Francis after Bruce had taken his seat, “that the committee has voted to invite you to oversee this great adventure, and also to join us as a member of the executive board.”
“My thanks, Mr. Chairman, to you and the committee for its confidence,” said the General, toying with his monocle before pouring himself a large whiskey. “Be assured I will do my damnedest to prove worthy of it.”
“I believe you’re acquainted with everyone on the committee, General, except our deputy chairman, Mr. Young.”
Young took a closer look at the General, and doubted if he was a day under sixty. If he was to make the arduous journey to the foothills of the Himalaya, a very sturdy beast would be needed to transport him.
“Our next duty, gentlemen,” said Sir Francis, “is to select a climbing leader, who will take over from General Bruce once he has led the expedition across the border into Tibet where he will set up base camp. The person we choose will have the responsibility of identifying the route by which the final party, possibly including himself, will make the first assault on the summit of Everest.” Sir Francis paused. “Let us pray that whomever we select will succeed in this noble enterprise.”
Young bowed his head, and wondered if any of the men seated around the table had the slightest idea what they were asking these brave young men to do in God’s name.
Sir Francis paused again before adding, “The Alpine Club has put forward two names for our consideration. Perhaps this would be the appropriate moment to ask our deputy chairman if he would like to say a few words by way of introduction.”
“Thank you, Mr. Chairman,” said Young. “I can tell the committee that in the opinion of the Alpine Club, these two candidates are unquestionably the finest climbers in the British Isles. The only other man in their class was Siegfried Herford, who was sadly cut down at Ypres.”
“Thank you,” said the chairman. “I should point out once again that had Captain Young not been wounded on the Western Front, there would be no need for this interview to take place.”
“It’s kind of you to say so, Mr. Chairman, but I can assure the committee that both of these young men are capable of carrying out the task.”
“And which of the two gentlemen should we see first?” asked Sir Francis.
“Mr. Leigh Mallory,” said Hinks, before anyone else could offer an opinion.
“It’s George Mallory, actually,” said Young.
“Very well, perhaps we should invite Mr. Mallory to join us,” suggested the chairman.
Once again Hinks rose from his place, and the porter opened the door that led into the ante-room. Hinks peered at the two men who were seated below a portrait of Queen Mary, and without having the slightest idea which was which, said, “Mr. Mallory, please follow me.” George stood up.
“Good luck, Mallory,” said Finch. “Don’t forget that you’ve only got one friend in there.”
Hinks stopped in his tracks, and for a moment looked as if he was going to respond, but evidently thought better of it and walked back into the committee room without another word.
“Mr. Mallory,” said Sir Francis as George entered the room. “It’s good of you to spare us your time.” He rose from his chair and shook hands with the candidate. “I do apologize for keeping you waiting.” George smiled. “I know that Mr. Young has informed you why you’re here this evening, so perhaps you’d be kind enough to take a seat at the top of the table. The committee have one or two questions for you.”
“Of course, Sir Francis,” said George a little nervously.
“May I begin,” said Sir Francis once George was seated, “by asking if you are in any doubt that we can succeed in this massive endeavor, and by that I mean conquering Everest.”
“No one can possibly answer that question with any authority, Sir Francis,” said George, “as only a handful of mountaineers have ever climbed higher than 20,000 feet. My brother Trafford, a pilot with the RAF, tells me that even an airplane hasn’t yet reached 29,000 feet, which is the height of Everest.”
“But you’d still be willing to give it a go, wouldn’t you?” asked Raeburn who was puffing away on a cigar, and looked as if his idea of a challenging climb would be the steps to his club.
“Of course I would,” said George enthusiastically. “But as no one has ever attempted to scale Everest, we have no way of knowing what difficulties it might present. For example—”
“Are you a married man, Mr. Mallory?” asked Commander Ashcroft, reading from the piece of paper in front of him.
“Yes, I am, sir.”
“Any family?”
“Two daughters,” George replied, slightly puzzled by the question. He couldn’t see how Clare and Beridge could possibly help him to climb a 29,000-foot mountain.
“Are there any more questions for Mr. Mallory?” asked Sir Francis as he checked his half-hunter pocket watch.
Was that it? thought George in disbelief. Was this bunch of old buffers going to decide between Finch and himself on the basis of such irrelevant questions? It looked as if Finch had been right about Hinks and his cronies.
“I have a question for Mr. Mallory,” said Hinks.
George smiled. Perhaps he’d misjudged the man.
“Can I confirm,” said Hinks, “that you were educated at Winchester?”
“Yes, I was,” said George, wondering once again what possible relevance the question might have.
“And from there you went up to Magdalene College, Cambridge, to read history?”
“Yes,” repeated George. He was tempted to add, “But I had to climb the college wall to make sure they offered me a place,” but somehow he managed to hold his tongue.
“And you graduated with an honors degree before taking up a teaching post at Charterhouse?”
“That is correct,” said George, still unsure where this could possibly be leading.
“And although as a schoolmaster you were exempt from serving in the armed forces, you nevertheless volunteered and were commissioned as an officer in the Royal Artillery, seeing action on the Western Front?”
“Yes,” said George. He glanced at Young in the hope of guidance, only to find that he looked equally bemused.
“And after the war you returned to Charterhouse to become the senior history master.”
George nodded, but said nothing.
“That’s all I needed to know. Thank you, Mr. Chairman.”
George once again glanced at Young, but he just shrugged his shoulders.
“Are there any more questions for Mr. Mallory?” asked Sir Francis. “Or can we let him go?”
The man with the cigar raised his hand. “Yes, Mr. Raeburn?” said Younghusband.
“If you were selected as climbing leader for this expedition, Mallory, would you be willing to purchase your own equipment?”
“I’m sure I could manage that,” said George after a moment’s hesitation.
“And would you also be able to pay for your passage to India?” inquired Ashcroft.
George hesitated, because he couldn’t be sure to what extent his father-in-law would be willing to assist him. He eventually said, “I would hope so.”
“Good show, Mallory,” said Sir Francis. “Now, all that’s left for me to do is thank you on behalf of the…” Hinks furiously scribbled a note, which he thrust under Younghusband’s nose. “Ah, yes,” Sir Francis said. “If you were to be selected, would you be prepared to undergo a medical examination?”
“Of course, Sir Francis,” said George.
“Capital,” said the chairman. “The commi
ttee will be in touch with you in the near future, to let you know our decision.”
George rose from his place, still slightly bemused, and left the room without another word. When the porter had closed the door behind him, George said, “It was even worse than you predicted.”
“I did warn you,” said Finch.
“Just be sure you don’t say anything you’ll regret, George.”
Finch always knew Mallory was serious when he addressed him by his Christian name.
“What can you possibly mean, old chap?” he asked.
“Humor them, don’t lose your temper. Try to remember that it’s going to be you and me standing at 27,000 feet preparing for the final climb, while that lot will be back in their clubs, sitting in front of a log fire, and enjoying a glass of brandy.”
“What a splendid fellow,” Hinks said.
“I agree,” said Raeburn. “Exactly the sort of chap we’re looking for. Wouldn’t you agree, General?”
“I certainly liked the cut of his jib,” said Bruce. “But I think we need to see the other chap before we come to a decision.”
Geoffrey Young smiled for the first time.
“The other fellow doesn’t look in the same class on paper,” said Ashcroft.
“You won’t find many mountains on paper Commander,” said Young, trying not to sound exasperated.
“That may well be the case,” said Hinks, “but I feel I should point out to the committee that Mr. Finch is an Australian.”
“I was given to understand,” said Raeburn, “that we were only considering chaps from the British Isles.”
“I think you’ll find, Mr. Chairman,” said Young, “that Australia is still part of His Majesty’s far-flung Empire.”
“Quite so,” said Sir Francis. “Perhaps we should see the fellow before we jump to conclusions.”
Hinks made no effort to rise from his seat. He simply folded his arms and nodded at the porter, who bowed deferentially, opened the door, and announced, “Mr. Finch.”
CHAPTER THIRTY
“MR. FINCH,” THE porter repeated, a little more firmly.
“Got to leave you, old chap,” said Finch, and added with a grin, “which is exactly what I’ll be saying when we’re a couple of hundred feet from the summit.”
Finch strolled into the committee room and sat down in the chair at the end of the table before Sir Francis had an opportunity to welcome him. Young could only smile when he saw how Finch had dressed for the interview. It was almost as if he’d set out to provoke the committee: a casual corduroy jacket, a pair of baggy cream flannels, an open-necked shirt, and no tie.
When Young had briefed Mallory and Finch, it hadn’t crossed his mind to mention a dress code. But to this committee the candidates’ appearance would be every bit as important as their climbing record. They were now all staring at Finch in disbelief. Ashcroft even had his mouth open. Young leaned back and waited for the fireworks to be ignited.
“Well, Mr. Finch,” said Sir Francis once he’d recovered, “let me welcome you on behalf of the committee, and ask if you are prepared to answer a few questions.”
“Of course I am,” said Finch. “That’s why I’m here.”
“Capital,” said Sir Francis. “Then I’ll get the ball rolling by asking if you’re in any doubt that this great enterprise can be achieved. By that I mean, do you believe you are capable of leading a team to the summit of Everest?”
“Yes, I can do that,” said Finch. “But nobody has any idea how the human body will react to such altitude. One scientist has even suggested we might explode, and although I think that’s a fatuous notion, it does indicate that we haven’t a clue what we’ll be up against.”
“I’m not sure I follow you, old chap,” said Raeburn.
“Then allow me to elucidate, Mr. Raeburn.” The elderly gentleman looked surprised that Finch knew his name. “What we do know is that the higher you climb, the thinner the air becomes, meaning that every movement a mountaineer makes at altitude will be more difficult than the last. That may result in some falling by the wayside.”
“Yourself included, perhaps?” said Hinks, not looking directly at him.
“Yes indeed, Mr. Hinks,” Finch said, looking back at the secretary.
“But despite all that,” said Raeburn, “you would still be willing to give it a go.”
“Yes, I would,” Finch replied firmly. “But I should warn the committee that the success or failure of this project may depend on the use of oxygen during the last 2,000 feet.”
“I’m not altogether sure I follow your drift,” said Sir Francis.
“I reckon that above 24,000 feet,” replied Finch, “we will find it almost impossible to breathe. I’ve carried out some experiments at 15,000 feet which showed that with the assistance of bottled oxygen, it’s possible to continue climbing at almost the same rate as at a much lower altitude.”
“But wouldn’t that be cheating, old chap?” asked Ashcroft. “It’s always been our aim to test man’s ability against the elements without resorting to mechanical aids.”
“The last time I heard a similar opinion expressed publicly was at a lecture given by the late Captain Scott in this very building. I’m sure, gentlemen, that you don’t need reminding how that sad adventure ended.”
Everyone on the committee was now staring at Finch as if he was the subject of a Bateman cartoon, but he continued unabashed.
“Scott not only failed to be first to reach the South Pole,” Finch reminded them, “but as you all know only too well, he and the rest of his party perished. Amundsen not only reached the Pole ahead of Scott, but is continuing to lead expeditions to the uncharted places around the globe. Yes, I would like to be the first person to stand on the top of the world, but I would also like to return to London to deliver a lecture on the subject to the Royal Geographical Society.”
It was some time before the next question was asked.
“Allow me to ask you, Mr. Finch,” said Hinks, choosing his words carefully, “does Mr. Mallory agree with you on the use of oxygen?”
“No, he doesn’t,” admitted Finch. “He thinks he can climb Everest without it. But then, he’s a historian, Mr. Hinks, not a scientist.”
“Are there any more questions for this candidate?” asked Sir Francis, looking as if he had already made up his mind on who the committee should select as climbing leader for the expedition.
“Yes, Mr. Chairman,” said Hinks. “There are just one or two matters I’d like to clear up, simply for the record, you understand.” Sir Francis nodded. “Mr. Finch, could you tell the committee where you were born and where you were educated?”
“I don’t see how that’s relevant,” replied Finch. “I have no idea where Mr. Alcock or Mr. Brown was educated, but I do know that they were the first men to fly across the Atlantic, and that they were only able to achieve that, Mr. Hinks, with the help of a mechanical aid known as an airplane.”
Young tried not to smile, although he was no longer in any doubt who the committee would select as climbing leader.
“Be that as it may,” said Hinks, “we at the RGS—”
“Forgive me for interrupting you, Mr. Hinks, but I was under the impression that I was being interviewed by the Everest Committee,” said Finch. “As the Society’s secretary, you signed a minute to that effect.”
“Be that as it may,” repeated Hinks, trying to compose himself, “perhaps you would be kind enough to answer my question.”
Young considered intervening, but remained silent, confident that Finch could handle himself just as well in a committee room as he did on a mountain.
“I was born in Australia, but I was educated in Zurich,” said Finch, “and attended the University of Geneva.”
Ashcroft leaned across the table and whispered to Raeburn, “I had no idea that Geneva had a university. I thought it was just full of banks.”
“And cuckoo clocks,” said Raeburn.
“And what is your profession?” asked
Hinks.
“I’m a chemist,” replied Finch. “Which is how I know about the significance of oxygen at high altitude.”
“I always thought chemistry was a hobby,” said Ashcroft, this time loud enough to be heard, “not a profession.”
“Only for children, Commander Ashcroft,” said Finch, looking him straight in the eye.
“And are you a married man, Finch?” asked Raeburn, flicking some ash off the end of his cigar.
“I am a widower,” said Finch, a reply which took Young by surprise.
Hinks scribbled a question mark against marital status.
“And do you have any children?” asked Ashcroft.
“Yes, one son, Peter.”
“Tell me, Finch,” said Raeburn, clipping the end off another cigar, “if you were selected for this important role, would you be willing to pay for your own equipment?”
“Only if I had to,” said Finch. “I am aware that the committee has launched an appeal to raise funds for this expedition, and I assumed that some of that money would be used to equip the climbers.”
“And what about your travel expenses?” pressed Ashcroft.
“Out of the question,” replied Finch. “If I were to take part in the expedition I would be out of work for at least six months, and although I don’t expect any financial recompense for loss of earnings, I see no reason why I should also have to cover my own expenses.”
“So you wouldn’t describe yourself as an amateur, old chap?” said Ashcroft.
“No, sir, I would not. I’m a professional in everything I do.”
“Are you indeed?” said Ashcroft.
“I don’t think we need detain Mr. Finch any longer, gentlemen?” suggested Sir Francis, looking around the table.
“I have some further questions for Mr. Finch,” said Young, unable to maintain his silence any longer.
“But surely you know everything you need to know about Mr. Finch.” said Hinks. “You’ve known this candidate for years.”
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