¾ cup pesto, store-bought or homemade (Chapter 8: Party Snacks)
Salt for the pasta water
¾ pound penne
1 large head of broccoli (1½ pounds), tough stem ends discarded, and the rest cut on the diagonal into 2-inch spears
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
¾ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Pour the olive oil into a large bowl. Add the pesto and whisk until uniformly blended. Set aside.
2. Put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a tablespoon of salt. Place a large colander in the sink. When the water boils, add the penne, keeping the heat high. Cook for close to the amount of time recommended on the package. Taste the pasta, and when it looks like the penne have about a minute or so to go, add the broccoli directly to the boiling water. (The broccoli will cook in seconds.) When the pasta and broccoli are just tender enough to bite into comfortably but not yet mushy, ladle out and save about 1 cup of the pasta water, then dump the remaining water-plus-pasta-plus-broccoli into the colander. Shake to mostly drain (it’s okay to leave some water clinging), and then transfer the pasta-plus-broccoli to the pesto mixture.
3. Mix well, so all of the pasta and broccoli is evenly coated with pesto and olive oil. Toss in the Parmesan as you mix (it will melt, coating everything nicely), and then stir in the salt plus about 6 grinds of black pepper (or to taste). If the pasta looks dry, stir in some of the reserved pasta water, a few tablespoons at a time. Serve the pasta hot, warm, at room temperature, or even cold.
WARMING PASTA INGREDIENTS
When working with ingredients (such as pesto) that need to be at room temperature, but not cooked, an easy way to warm them just enough is to spread them across the bottom of the large serving bowl in which you’ll be mixing them with the pasta and, while the pasta is cooking, set the bowl over the boiling pasta water for a few seconds. Stir just until the bowl gets a bit warm. Make sure your bowl is not ice-cold and is made of something heatproof, like metal or heavy earthenware.
* * *
GET CREATIVE
Use a high-quality olive oil for more flavor.
Mix in up to 1 cup of fresh ricotta for extra creaminess (let it come to room temperature and give it a stir before adding).
Toss in a handful or two of lightly toasted pine nuts or chopped toasted walnuts.
Stir in about ½ cup halved cherry tomatoes when you add the hot pasta.
* * *
pasta shells with chickpeas and arugula
Makes 3 to 4 servings
There’s a luxury ingredient in this quick pasta, and it’s one that makes a major difference: fresh mozzarella—the soft white kind that comes in a tub of liquid, not the rubbery kind that’s sold shrink-wrapped. You can cut a few pieces into chunks or, even easier, use bocconcini, those bite-sized fresh mozzarella balls, whole or cut in halves or quarters if they’re on the large side. Don’t make the pieces too small, though, because it’s nice to bite into a serious chunk of fresh mozzarella in this texturally fun dish. Young, small (and thus not-so-bitter) arugula is best here. If you have older, larger arugula, remove and discard the stems. Not an arugula fan? Substitute baby spinach leaves, torn or cut into bite-sized pieces.
One 15-ounce can chickpeas (about 1½ cups cooked chickpeas)
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon minced garlic (about 1 good-sized clove)
¾ teaspoon salt (plus more for the pasta water)
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon dried oregano
¼ cup olive oil
½ pound fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into large dice
Freshly ground black pepper
½ pound small or medium-sized (up to 1-inch) pasta shells
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 cups (packed) coarsely chopped arugula
1. Set a colander in the sink and pour in the chickpeas; give them a quick rinse and allow them to drain.
2. In a large bowl, combine the vinegar, garlic, salt, thyme, oregano, and olive oil; whisk to blend. Stir in the chickpeas and mozzarella, and grind in a generous amount of black pepper. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, foil, or just a plate, and let it stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to an hour. (You can do this step up to 2 days ahead—in which case, refrigerate the mixture and bring it back to room temperature before proceeding.)
3. When you are ready to assemble the dish, put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a tablespoon of salt. Place a large colander in the sink. When the water boils, add the pasta, keeping the heat high. Cook for the amount of time recommended on the package, tasting the pasta toward the end of the suggested time to be sure it is not getting overcooked. When it is just tender enough to bite into comfortably but not yet mushy, dump the water-plus-pasta into the colander. Shake to mostly drain (it’s okay to leave some water clinging), and then add the pasta to the chickpea mixture in the bowl.
4. Toss well from the bottom of the bowl, sprinkling in the Parmesan and arugula as you go. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, as is or garnished with any of the extras listed at right.
* * *
GET CREATIVE
Use a high-quality olive oil for more flavor.
Garnish with a few sun-dried tomatoes—either dry or marinated in oil—cut into thin strips.
Toss in a handful of chopped toasted walnuts along with the Parmesan and arugula.
Add a few handfuls of halved tiny, sweet cherry tomatoes along with the Parmesan and arugula.
Turning this dish into a pasta salad is as simple as combining all the ingredients as directed and then covering and chilling in the refrigerator. Toss to recombine just before serving, and if you like, throw in a few handfuls of halved cherry tomatoes.
Use fresh thyme and oregano in place of dried; increase the amount to 1½ teaspoons of each, since fresh herbs have a more delicate flavor than dried.
Make this vegan by using eggless pasta, omitting the Parmesan cheese, and replacing the mozzarella with tofu.
* * *
farfalle with roasted garlic, nuts, and raisins
Makes 3 to 4 servings
Here’s another no-cook way to dress pasta for success. The garlic, raisins, and nuts make for a nice mix of sweet, salty, chewy, and crunchy. You can also try making this with cashews and pistachios, which add a sensational richness. (For detailed nut-toasting instructions, see Chapter 2: Salads.)
Plump sweet golden raisins are best in this dish, but if you don’t have them on hand, black ones work fine. You’ll need to make the Roasted Garlic Paste ahead of time. It’s good to keep some on hand, anyway, so you can throw this (and many other delicious items) together on short notice.
½ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons Roasted Garlic Paste (Chapter 1: Soups)
Salt for the pasta water
¾ pound farfalle (bowtie pasta)
½ to ¾ cup minced flat-leaf parsley
½ cup raisins (preferably golden ones)
½ cup chopped walnuts, lightly toasted
½ cup chopped almonds, lightly toasted
3 scallions (white and tender green parts), finely minced
¾ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Red pepper flakes
* * *
GET CREATIVE
Use a high-quality olive oil for more flavor.
Mash a couple of anchovies or a few squirts of anchovy paste into the olive oil along with the Roasted Garlic Paste (and then use less salt to season).
Garnish each serving with a sprinkling of toasted breadcrumbs (see Chapter 7: Sides).
Instead of the raisins, try currants, which are smaller and have a more delicate flavor.
Make this vegan by using eggless pasta.
* * *
1. Place the olive oil in a large bowl. Add the Roasted Garlic Paste, mashing it into the oil with the back of a fork. Set aside.
2. Put
a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a tablespoon of salt. Place a large colander in the sink. When the water boils, add the farfalle, keeping the heat high. Cook for the amount of time recommended on the package, tasting the pasta toward the end of the suggested time to be sure it is not getting overcooked. When it is just tender enough to bite into comfortably but not yet mushy, dump the water-plus-pasta into the colander. Shake to mostly drain (it’s okay to leave some water clinging), and then transfer the pasta to the bowl containing the oil and garlic paste.
3. Use a fork or a wooden spoon to toss and turn the pasta until it becomes coated with the oil. Keep tossing as you add the parsley, raisins, nuts, scallions, and salt. Grind in a generous amount of black pepper, and sprinkle in a big pinch of red pepper flakes (according to your heat preference). Toss quickly and thoroughly. (Shaking the bowl helps.) Serve right away, making sure you dig down to the bottom of the bowl to scoop up all the tasty morsels that might have landed beneath the pasta.
pasta with tuna, white beans, and artichoke hearts
Makes 3 to 4 servings
Want to never be stuck with nothing for dinner? I’ve got two words for you: cans and jars. Stock up on decent tuna, canned white beans, and jars of marinated artichoke hearts, and you’ve got a great start. Any kind of tuna is fine for this recipe (white or light, water-or oil-packed), and it’s great with all kinds of pasta beyond the more traditional fettuccine—orecchiette (little ears), gemelli (twists), or whatever looks like fun to you. It’s light yet substantial, and great on a warm evening. And it’s definitely not your grandmother’s tuna noodle casserole.
One 15-ounce can cannellini or navy beans (about 1½ cups cooked beans)
1/3 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic (1 good-sized clove)
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt (plus more for the pasta water)
Freshly ground black pepper
One 12-ounce can tuna, drained
One or two 6-ounce jars marinated artichoke hearts
3 or 4 scallions (white and tender green parts), minced
A handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley
¾ pound fettuccine (or any pasta)
1. Set a colander in the sink and pour in the beans; give them a quick rinse and allow them to drain.
2. Pour the olive oil into a large bowl. Add the garlic, lemon juice, and salt, and stir to combine. Add the beans and 5 to 6 grinds of black pepper. Stir gently to coat all the beans, and let sit for at least 30 minutes to marinate. (You can do this step up to 2 days ahead—in which case, cover and refrigerate the mixture and then bring it back to room temperature before proceeding.)
3. Add the tuna to the beans, flaking it with a fork and then mixing it in gently, so as not to break the beans. Stir in the artichokes (including all of their marinade), along with the scallions and parsley.
4. Put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a tablespoon of salt. Place a large colander in the sink. When the water boils, add the fettuccine, keeping the heat high. Cook for the amount of time recommended on the package, tasting the pasta toward the end of the suggested time to be sure it is not getting overcooked. When it is just tender enough to bite into comfortably but not yet mushy, dump the water-plus-pasta into the colander. Shake to mostly drain (it’s okay to leave some water clinging), and then add the pasta to the bowl with the bean mixture.
5. Gently stir the pasta and sauce until well combined. (The best utensil for stirring will depend on the shape of the pasta: tongs for longer shapes like fettuccine, a large spoon for shorter ones.) Serve right away.
GET CREATIVE
Use a high-quality olive oil for more flavor.
Add a handful of assorted olives (the variously shaped multicolored ones from the olive bar) to the mix when you add the tuna.
Add a tablespoon of capers along with the tuna.
If you want to extend the sauce and make it a little more Mediterranean, add a drained 15-ounce can of diced tomatoes.
Add a few chopped anchovies or a bit of anchovy paste along with the tuna. If you do, use less salt.
Try some tuna packed in olive oil. Expensive, but worth it. You can use the oil in the jar to make up part of the 1/3 cup of oil called for in the recipe.
chinese-style peanut noodles
Makes 4 to 6 servings
You’ll be surprised at how Chinese-restaurant-y (in a good way!) this easy peanut sauce tastes. Make the sauce ahead of time, if you like, and keep it in the refrigerator. That way you can enjoy this pasta on a busy weeknight just by reheating a bit of the sauce and spooning it over individual servings of cooked pasta—not to mention chicken, vegetables, tofu, or beef. “Natural” peanut butter (the kind made just from peanuts, and perhaps also salt, but nothing else) is the best kind to use for this.
1½ cups peanut butter
1 teaspoon minced garlic (1 good-sized clove)
4 cups boiling water
¼ cup cider vinegar
½ cup (packed) brown sugar (light or dark)
3 to 4 tablespoons soy sauce
Up to 1 teaspoon salt (plus more for the pasta water)
1 pound angel hair pasta Red pepper flakes
1. Put the peanut butter and garlic in a large bowl. Add about 2 cups of the boiling water, and mash with the back of a large spoon to help the peanut butter start softening. As it softens, switch from the spoon to a whisk, and gently whisk as you slowly pour in the remaining 2 cups of boiling water. When the peanut butter and the water have become uniformly mixed, stir in the vinegar, brown sugar, and 3 tablespoons of the soy sauce. Taste the mixture to see if it needs more soy sauce (different brands have varying salt contents), and add more if you like. Also add some salt to taste, beginning with ¼ teaspoon and possibly adding up to a full teaspoon if it seems to need it. Set the sauce aside. (You can make this sauce up to a week ahead of time and store it, covered, in the refrigerator. If you do, warm it in the microwave, or in a saucepan over low heat, before using.)
2. Put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a tablespoon of salt. Place a large colander in the sink. When the water boils, add the pasta, keeping the heat high. Cook for the amount of time recommended on the package, tasting the pasta toward the end of the suggested time to be sure it is not getting overcooked. When it is just tender enough to bite into comfortably but not yet mushy, dump the water-plus-pasta into the colander. Shake to mostly drain (it’s okay to leave some water clinging), and transfer the pasta to the bowl of sauce.
3. Use a fork or tongs to gently mix the noodles into the sauce, using a lifting motion as you turn the bowl. Serve right away, topped with a scattering of red pepper flakes.
GET CREATIVE
If you like a little heat, add some chile oil to the sauce (a few drops at a time, tasting after each addition) after you add the soy sauce.
For a little more complex flavor, add a teaspoon of toasted sesame oil to the sauce.
Add some minced cilantro to the sauce and/or a few whole cilantro leaves to decorate the top. (Use as much as you like. I tend to throw in a ton!)
Stir in some thinly sliced scallion greens, or sprinkle them on top as a garnish.
Garnish with some chopped peanuts.
Toss in a cup of warm chopped cooked broccoli, carrots, cabbage, summer squash, mushrooms, or cauliflower along with the pasta.
Mix in (or sprinkle on) a cup of shredded or sliced cooked chicken (Chapter 6: Chicken, Fish, and Meat and 156), diced firm tofu, or scrambled eggs.
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